|
BoostCreep posted:I had to trim the crossmember just a bit, but I have about an inch of clearance there which should hopefully be enough. Are you going to be able to get at that oil filter without pulling the engine?
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2016 21:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 03:02 |
|
|
Raluek posted:Are you going to be able to get at that oil filter without pulling the engine? Nope, but I can buy a filter relocation kit easily enough.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2016 21:38
|
|
|
I can't believe how well the trans lined up with the stock location. Just make sure to get the trans output shaft and the diff pinion shaft parallel when calculating the height of the trans mount required if it uses ujoints in the driveshaft, and make sure to get the trans output as close to parallel as possible with the driveshaft if it uses giubos.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2016 22:09
|
|
|
kastein posted:I can't believe how well the trans lined up with the stock location. Just make sure to get the trans output shaft and the diff pinion shaft parallel when calculating the height of the trans mount required if it uses ujoints in the driveshaft, and make sure to get the trans output as close to parallel as possible with the driveshaft if it uses giubos. And do this with the correct amount of weight on the suspension/wheels, or you'll end up loving it up and redoing it (or munching driveline components until you do).
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
Those mounts look great! Remember the saying: a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2016 16:36
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice on the angles for the driveshaft. I didn't think about having the car on the ground first. Driveshaft will be coming soon, but it hasn't been ordered yet.ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Those mounts look great! Remember the saying: a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't. Words to live by for me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2016 08:52
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:And do this with the correct amount of weight on the suspension/wheels, or you'll end up loving it up and redoing it (or munching driveline components until you do). This is extremely critical for solid axle vehicles, but I believe his car's IRS, which will minimize the amount of differential movement as the suspension travels. Depending on the design of the rear suspension and subframe it may still move a bit, though, so it's still a wise choice to have the weight on the wheels (bounce it a few times to make sure everything's settled...) for driveshaft angle stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
I just watched your latest video. In the angled spacers you made, how are you going to be able to tighten the engine mount nuts without that captive bolt spinning? If you manage that, are you worried at all about potentially having to remove the engine once that nut/bolt sees a little bit of corrosion and won't unthread freely?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2016 18:54
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I just watched your latest video. In the angled spacers you made, how are you going to be able to tighten the engine mount nuts without that captive bolt spinning? If you manage that, are you worried at all about potentially having to remove the engine once that nut/bolt sees a little bit of corrosion and won't unthread freely? When you pull the bolt all the way up it sits right against the wall of the cylinder and doesn't spin. Fortunately being in SoCal they won't get corroded, but if for some reason they still spin when putting them together I'll weld it from the top and grind it down. Looking back on it I probably should have welded it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2016 19:46
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:When you pull the bolt all the way up it sits right against the wall of the cylinder and doesn't spin. Fortunately being in SoCal they won't get corroded, but if for some reason they still spin when putting them together I'll weld it from the top and grind it down. Yup. I'd have welded them in place. Luckily for you, they aren't that complicated to make again!
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2016 19:52
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Yup. I'd have welded them in place. Luckily for you, they aren't that complicated to make again! At least I made the disclaimer that I'm not a good fabricator. I'm learning as I go.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2016 19:55
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:At least I made the disclaimer that I'm not a good fabricator. I'm learning as I go. Beg, Borrow, or Steal a drill press next time too, if at all possible. Trying to drill big holes in thick plate with a cordless is a recipe for damage, destruction, or stitches. Also, a metalworking vise would be helpful.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2016 05:48
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Beg, Borrow, or Steal a drill press next time too, if at all possible. Trying to drill big holes in thick plate with a cordless is a recipe for damage, destruction, or stitches. Also, a metalworking vise would be helpful. Yep I need a lot of tools. I'm making do with what I have on an extremely limited budget. Hopefully most of the fabrication is done on this car until I start making the cage, which is quite a bit away still. I pulled the engine out to get the clutch installed. This is the "stage 2" clutch and flywheel from Diamond Clutch rated at 600ft lbs. I won't be anywhere near that for quite a while. Test fitting the flywheel: (actually I forgot to put the dust shield on in this pic)  All torqued down:  Quicktime bellhousing on:  Hydraulic slave installed:   Short of cutting the firewall, this is about as far back as the engine can go. The rear side of the passenger valve cover is a little under an inch from touching the firewall.   Plenty of room for the blockhugger headers:   
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2016 07:07
|
|
|
Quicktime? All I could think of was this! In seriousposting news, I'm really enjoying your vids when they pop up on youtube, looking forward to seeing this build reach completion.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2016 14:26
|
|
|
Oh man, I wouldn't have put off watching your latest video so long if I knew you were going to call me out in it! I'm loving watching your project come together.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2016 15:25
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Oh man, I wouldn't have put off watching your latest video so long if I knew you were going to call me out in it! I'm loving watching your project come together. Hey you made a super valid point. Credit where credit is due.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
Hmm, this part of HRG seems familiar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rfeIRkkQJ8&t=565s
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 20:12
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Hmm, this part of HRG seems familiar: Is that some kind of weird multifit flywheel? I see a 6-lug pattern in there, but what are the rest of the holes for?!
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 20:56
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Hmm, this part of HRG seems familiar: Almost identical. Right down to the professional production value, tools, and corporate sponsors.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 21:11
|
|
|
But do you have a shop dogge, though?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 22:40
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:But do you have a shop dogge, though? This is from my last video. Connor is helping me remove some cardboard from my work area. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 02:35
|
|
|
Oh crap I forgot to subscribe to your videos 
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 03:12
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:This is from my last video. Connor is helping me remove some cardboard from my work area. Connor needs to make more regular appearances, i.e. be in at least 50% of the clips.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 20:51
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:This is from my last video. Connor is helping me remove some cardboard from my work area. Link to videos containing dog please.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 00:25
|
|
|
wargames posted:Link to videos containing dog please. His biggest cameo is in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q19fy-8M5nU He has some other small appearances here and there, but I don't want to dig through each episode to find them. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 02:46
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:His biggest cameo is in this video. No playlist you nerd! Also will watch all the videos.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
Might as well get this poo poo installed. This is the Xcessive Manufacturing clutch pedal kit for the SC300/400. It uses a custom made clutch pedal and bracket with a 90-93 Celica master cylinder.  Which means I should clear out some of this poo poo.  And drill some holes here:  That master cylinder outlet is looking awfully close to the side of the engine bay...  Like super close. Probably gonna have to bash the hell out of the metal with a hammer to make it fit.  It fits, after having bashed the hell out of the metal with the hammer. Good thing it's a racecar.  But, installed:  Pedal installed:  I need to trim the left half of the brake pedal off until I eventually pony up for an OEM manual brake pedal.   I'm pretty excited that it's starting to look like a car again. Getting closer... I've also been working on the wiring. I have a switch/ignition panel on order which I'm starting to get my head around. The next thing I'm trying to figure out is gauges. I was hoping to use DashCommand on either my iPad mini or a cheap Amazon Fire tablet, but my ECM is OBD2 instead of CANBUS, so I'm looking at around 18 samples per second instead of 100. Does anyone have experience with using a tablet as real-time gauges as an instrument cluster replacement? I'd love to be able to save the money by using a cheap tablet instead of buying like 6-8 gauges. Will an OBD2 Wifi dongle be fast enough for real-time response? Part 1 of the wiring harness video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OwiJlbp1Sk Clutch pedal episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpogA6fZQUI BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 02:55
|
|
|
Pretty impressed there's a turnkey clutch pedal option. There isn't one for the Cressida that I know of. e: OMG Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 03:08
|
|
|
I'm guessing an OEM pedal assembly from a manual soarer wouldn't fit, or would be more expensive?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 20:32
|
|
|
My friend most likely made that kit for you! He just left xcessive for a better job, but he did 100% of the in house fab. Glad to see you like it!
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 20:36
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:I'm guessing an OEM pedal assembly from a manual soarer wouldn't fit, or would be more expensive? Used OEM assemblies are very rare in the U.S. They only came on SC300s from 92-97 and only a couple hundred or so were sold every year country wide, so the ones that do surface on ebay cost more than the full kit I bought. RHD clutch assemblies don't fit LHD cars. You can buy new OEM parts from Toyota, but they aren't sold as a full kit, so you have to buy around 20 individual pieces like washers, screws, springs, etc. There is one company that does the research and orders the parts for you, but with the master cylinder it ends up being almost $500. The kit I got is around $240 shipped with the SS braided line and T56 adapter. This is the parts list needed. I started tracking parts down and realized I'd be ordering from around 8 different places due to availability. Taking shipping costs and wait times into consideration, it was just easier to get the assembled kit from Xcessive. support sub-assy 55107-24040 std 90119-08a22 bush 90386-10019 pin 90249-10127 seat 31354-20030 e ring 96160-00800 2x spring 90501-55007 std 94110-51000 collar 90387-10003 bush 90386-13015 2x seat 31355-20030 std 94512-01000 std 90468-16142 bush 90386-08010 shaft 91121-51060 std 90206-08001 pin 90240-08006 pad 31321-14020 pedal 31301-24050 std 91665-60630 washers 90201-20015 t=.6 or 20016 t=1.2 cushion 90541-06032 2x pedal 47101-24060 pad 31321-14020 the spyder posted:My friend most likely made that kit for you! He just left xcessive for a better job, but he did 100% of the in house fab. Glad to see you like it! That's awesome! My only complaint is that you have to hammer the side of the engine bay to make room for the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Next time I'd buy the clutch pedal from Xcessive and an OEM SC300 master cylinder. But at least the Celica master is pretty cheap to replace. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Nov 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 20:57
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Pretty impressed there's a turnkey clutch pedal option. There isn't one for the Cressida that I know of. I'm finding that the Cressida has a better aftermarket than a lot of more modern cars. It's pretty popular.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2016 21:31
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Does anyone have experience with using a tablet as real-time gauges as an instrument cluster replacement? I'd love to be able to save the money by using a cheap tablet instead of buying like 6-8 gauges. Will an OBD2 Wifi dongle be fast enough for real-time response? Maybe one of these would work? https://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-752-302-Stealth-Computer/dp/B00317952S Just mount it to the steering column, seems cheap and unobtrusive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 01:58
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:Maybe one of these would work? That is certainly a good option. Are those easy to read while on a track? In low light? As I do more research into this, it seems like the OBD2 Wifi/bluetooth dongle might not be the delay in the system. OBD2 in general is just really slow compared to CAN bus. I can't seem to find actual published sample rates for these, but what I am seeing is around 18 samples per second for OBD2 and 100+ for CAN bus. I'm trying to see if such a low sample rate is fast enough for real time response on something like a tachometer. The PLX Kiwi 3 says it is "4 times faster than the closest competitor", but that means nothing when nobody publishes actual sample rates.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 02:30
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:That is certainly a good option. Are those easy to read while on a track? In low light? No idea, I just knew they were available. Seems like most people use them for bikes, not sure how it would work in a race car application, but it seems like it's worth a shot. Better than trying to rig up a tablet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 03:28
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:That is certainly a good option. Are those easy to read while on a track? I can't imagine you'll ever be reading your instruments in the middle of a drift session.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 06:57
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:That is certainly a good option. Are those easy to read while on a track? In low light? The CAN bus is one (well, actually two) of the protocols allowed by OBD2, which is basically just a funky connector with multiple different serial ports in it. Most cars I have inappropriately touched electronically have had the CAN bus, and sometimes another one too, and from what I've gathered many of the cheap OBD2 things only do CAN. If things are "slow", that all comes down to implementation details. Depending on bitrate (I've seen 125-500kbps in ECU CAN buses) there's room for a couple thousand packets per second, so it can easily push some data items at 100/s and shitloads more at a few/s. I don't think 18/s is necessarily too low an update rate for an RPM gauge (unless you need a shift light for an F1 engine), but there can certainly be delays in other parts of the system. From what I've seen when looking closely, the ECU spits out RPM numbers at a pretty fast pace (at least 10/s, possibly faster, not sure) without any "filtering" where the last two digits just look like they're randomly jumping around, and then the gauge has some kind of smoothing/filtering/being mechanical. The latter bit, where the gauge itself is making the signal "look nice" is where I would expect the most slowness to happen.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 08:07
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:That is certainly a good option. Are those easy to read while on a track? In low light? I have the original PLX Kiwi, which was also "faster than the closest competitor". FWIW, Torque for Android's tach lags a little behind the tach in my cluster... which is also incredibly laggy for some reason (just GM things), I hit the rev limiter if I wind it out in first before the physical tach has even hit 6k. Rev limiter is 6750. I have no idea how the original compares to the 3, though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 08:43
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:No idea, I just knew they were available. Seems like most people use them for bikes, not sure how it would work in a race car application, but it seems like it's worth a shot. Better than trying to rig up a tablet. Similarly, there's this thing that seems pretty price-competitive with using Torque and a cheap used tablet. Dunno how performance is, or anything like that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 09:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 03:02 |
|
|
Raluek posted:Similarly, there's this thing that seems pretty price-competitive with using Torque and a cheap used tablet. Dunno how performance is, or anything like that. I have one sitting in my garage (would sell, sold car I was using it on) and it's alright. It doesn't update super fast, but it gave my car a coolant and boost gauge that it never had. I'd say it's a good supplement but not a replacement.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2016 13:50
|
|
