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atomicthumbs posted:put the 1uz in thr bciklin IOwnCalculus posted:Put the 1UZ in the WJ. Put a 1UZ in everything.  Sweet thread, glad to see a SC400 in a thread in AI. 1UZs are generally a pain to connect to any kind of transmission other than the A341E. Bellhousing/flywheel gets expensive fast. The ECU is good, and will work without the transmission (the TCU is within the ECU), but it is not flashable or moddable in any way. Many people doing swaps go aftermarket. I have the full service manual for the SC400 as .pdf, PM me if you want a copy. If the display on your heater control panel has not bled, please don't trash it. Non-bled ones are rare and valuable!
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Jan 17, 2016 23:18
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Not sure if I mentioned it, but oven cleaner works wonders at removing tint residue. The rear glass on those cars is a bitch to reach over the parcel shelf, though. Enjoy!
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Apr 22, 2016 09:32
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Ugh gently caress you for being able to simply unbolt the exhaust. For me it's either 6 hours with various grinders, or a sawzall.
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May 19, 2016 23:31
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Yep, its a super easy engine pull. "Step 1: Remove engine" is the easiest method of fitting exhaust headers (have you seen the frame rail clearance on those cars? There is none!) or steering rack bushes. Getting the radiator out takes the longest for me, because you have to drain 3 lots of fluids and not get it all over your driveway. After that, it's probably less than an hour to pull the motor. I replaced all my exhaust bolts for stainless. No regrets. If you're selling the motor, be a gentleman and include the two ignitors (you left them on the drivers side fender, just aft of the fusebox and beside the suspension strut) and the MAF, otherwise you might as well saw the loom off and keep the ECU :p. That cable going into the transmission controls the internal fluid pressure for the box, giving you harder shifts at more-open throttles. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 17:15 on May 20, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 17:12
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None of those. The PS one controls the solenoid on the rack for lots/little pressure. The same for the fan one. The ABS unit isn't needed. If there's a TRC unit (if the car is TRC equipped), it doesn't need that either. The only other 'component' is the fuel pump controller (actually a resistor pack) which drops the pump voltage to 7 (I think) volts when full pressure is not required. I wouldn't bother with it as it would mean cutting up the body harness, but it's good to know its there in case you want to re-use the stock fuel pump and wiring. It's located beneath one of the rear quarter windows (I guess the passenger side one? Your car is back to front!) When I pull a 1UZ, I pull the loom and sit it on top, plug the ECU back into it, pull the ignitors and sit them on top (leave them plugged in as the plugs are brittle), and leave the MAF attached and plugged in. I guess you've already discovered the plug for the steering rack solenoid (usually by ripping it out!). That's it for electrical bits. Fun fact about these cars, the gauge cluster processes the no.1 speed sensor signal and re-transmits it to the ECU. The ECU uses a second speed sensor, but uses the signal from the ECU as a reference to make sure that both sensors are working. In the case of a no.2 speed sensor failure, the ECU will use the no.1 sensor signal from the gauges sensor and throw a code (ECT62). So I guess the gauges are part of the engine system  .
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May 21, 2016 19:08
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BoostCreep posted:So I have to sell the instrument cluster with the engine? Crap, I was planning on using the housing... Not at all, the engine will run fine and the transmission would shift gears fine without the housing but will likely throw an error code for one of the two speed sensors (who cares, it will likely throw many codes, but will run fine). Just include the ECU, MAF and ignitors with the engine/trans and you'll be fine. Don't be mean and sell the MAF separately, unless you sell the engine to someone who will be replacing the ECU/switching to a MAP sensor, etc. It's part of the engine. Here's how I packaged mine:  BoostCreep posted:I don't know if anyone is into this kind of stuff, but I made a YouTube channel to document the progress of the build. I'm terrible on camera, but I'm documenting pretty much every second of the work I do to the car if anyone wants to follow along. I realize this opens me up to ridicule, but I figured I'd join the 21st century and film everything instead of just taking pictures. Awesome! I was thinking of doing something similar for my future projects. There aren't many decent channels for this kind of stuff, and the beet in your hand really makes it. Keep it up, I know it takes a while to build interest and subscribers. I've subscribed 
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Jun 29, 2016 |
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Jun 29, 2016 10:20
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Wait, so that motor fits perfectly, on its stock mounts? What the gently caress!
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Jul 26, 2016 22:03
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I have one of those makitas. They are great for driving screws and light drilling. The impact gun from the same range is excellent for removing 10mm boots from old Japanese cars, specifically the RHD variant of the Sc400.
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Jul 28, 2016 00:24
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Those mounts look great! Remember the saying: a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hmm, this part of HRG seems familiar: Is that some kind of weird multifit flywheel? I see a 6-lug pattern in there, but what are the rest of the holes for?!
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Sep 30, 2016 20:56
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But do you have a shop dogge, though?
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Sep 30, 2016 22:40
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BoostCreep posted:This is from my last video. Connor is helping me remove some cardboard from my work area. Connor needs to make more regular appearances, i.e. be in at least 50% of the clips.
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Oct 1, 2016 20:51
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I'm guessing an OEM pedal assembly from a manual soarer wouldn't fit, or would be more expensive?
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Nov 1, 2016 20:32
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I forgot to mention it in my YouTube comment, but try kerosene on the tough adhesive.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:56
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hJbzCSWdN0 Check out 9 minutes in. This guy is awesome and his build is awesome. Loads of good poo poo on his channel.
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Dec 28, 2016 12:29
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Oh man, those drat wiper motor plugs are always such a pain in the rear end! Engine bay looks good . Are you going to seam sealer those patch plates?
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Jan 18, 2017 21:49
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Just fold duct tape around the edge and call it done. Or for slightly more effort, slit some vacuum hose and stick that on the edge.
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Jan 20, 2017 13:51
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Nice video If you want to reuse the loom or parts of it, wrap a bands of electrical tape around it every foot or so, to keep it from becoming a rats nest while you work on it. The tape keeps it neat and routed correctly, and is easy to snip off then replace as you remove wires, new wires can be taped on top, and when you'redone, you can deal with it "properly" if desired. The fuel pump ECUs are valuable (in the UK at least), as they commonly fail. They can fetch $60-$80 over here, maybe the same for you? The black vents in the trunk are to equalize cabin pressure with outside, so that your AC/fan can operate (it's where the air that comes from your vents ends up). Though in the SC, there is a bulkhead in the way, so maybe that is vented as well somehow.The gas tank vent is the thin pipe running next to/above the fuel filler pipe. Also to check, there is a plastic pipe that runs from under the gas filler flap to the underneath of the car. You can see a small hole just below the gas cap itself. This tube can often get blocked with crap, cause water to leak into the trunk floor, and can lead to rust. A wire coat hanger deals with this. The "fake wood" in the dash is real wood! Nice work as always, keep it up, buddy!
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Feb 25, 2017 00:22
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BoostCreep posted:for some reason my '92 SC400 has separate lines that run from the rear calipers to the engine bay instead of one line that tees at the back like most SCs. Related to the ABS/TRC. If your car was TRC equipped, it will definitely have two lines going to the rear. I thought all of the cars did, though. BoostCreep posted:Fix the door handles. The driver side door won't open from the inside and the passenger door won't open from the outside. The outside handle is common - a thin linkage snaps at the mechanism. Remove the handle (two screws from inside), and lock mechanism (torx screws in the edge of the door), and you can weld this linkage back together, or bodge something in. Here is a picture, with a handy yellow box:  The inside handle though, ??? I've never heard of issues with that on these cars. I was watching the video, and wondering when you'd find out that you need to trim that bit of material from the caliper. People have been doing that for 10+ years and never had any problems. Great work as always, keep it up!
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Mar 21, 2017 |
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Mar 21, 2017 17:25
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BoostCreep posted:That's hugely helpful, thank you. The inside handle doesn't work because the PO borked the cable somehow. It was taped together when I bought the car, so I need to pull it apart and see what can be done to fix or replace it. Also the passenger interior handle is broken off, and the driver side one has a big crack in it as well. I'm going to buy some LS400 metal handles and use them to replace the plastic ones. I could send you a handle and cable if you decide to stick with SC parts, but would be from the UK, so not sure of postage costs?
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Mar 21, 2017 21:43
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BoostCreep posted:I appreciate the offer, but I can hopefully pick some handles and a new cable locally for cheapish. If not I'll definitely hit you up. I assume shipping to California from the UK is pretty high. Cable would probably be just a few dollars and I wouldn't want anything for it. Handle...the plastic bit would be cheap, the steel bracket maybe not. You can always chek on https://www.royalmail.com The offer is there if you need it. Downside is I'm not home until April 17th to send it.
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Mar 22, 2017 11:52
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Great work on the car as always. I always enjoy your Youtube videos when they appear. Good to see this swap on your silly mirrored Soarer.
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Aug 4, 2017 22:20
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Raluek posted:How easy is it to remove that adapter/bracket from the fender? I can't see how you could do an oil change with it in place without making a ridiculous mess. You just need to jack the back of the car up about 15 feet.
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Nov 16, 2017 10:08
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High current, not high voltage. Not really an answer to your questions, but on the topic of battery shutoffs and safety - if you are mounting a battery not right next to the fusebox, please consider adding a fuse or fusible link nearby, in case the battery positive wire ever shorts to ground while travelling through the car. I would run the battery wires to your panel. Hell, I'd install a small battery in the passenger footwell and have it all there, surely you don't need a big heavy battery in the trunk for this car.
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Dec 1, 2017 04:37
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