|
I really wish youtube had multi channel audio so you can upload the video with its builtin audio and then include other tracks (laugh track, music, etc) that the viewer can turn on and off. That might be overly complicated though.
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2016 21:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 09:15 |
|
|
A crush sleeve will effectively make it a very small diameter solid mount until the vibration eats the end of the crush sleeve far enough into the subframe or motor mount bracket to release the preload on the bolt, at which point it'll be a hockey puck mount again. Make sure you use nuts that have some sort of locking feature - stover nuts, all metal staked lock nuts, nylocks, etc. If you don't, every time the mount compresses the preload will be taken off the nut somewhat and it'll have a chance to vibrate free a little.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2016 21:56
|
|
|
I can't believe how well the trans lined up with the stock location. Just make sure to get the trans output shaft and the diff pinion shaft parallel when calculating the height of the trans mount required if it uses ujoints in the driveshaft, and make sure to get the trans output as close to parallel as possible with the driveshaft if it uses giubos.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2016 22:09
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:And do this with the correct amount of weight on the suspension/wheels, or you'll end up loving it up and redoing it (or munching driveline components until you do). This is extremely critical for solid axle vehicles, but I believe his car's IRS, which will minimize the amount of differential movement as the suspension travels. Depending on the design of the rear suspension and subframe it may still move a bit, though, so it's still a wise choice to have the weight on the wheels (bounce it a few times to make sure everything's settled...) for driveshaft angle stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
ionn posted:The CAN bus is one (well, actually two) of the protocols allowed by OBD2, which is basically just a funky connector with multiple different serial ports in it. Most cars I have inappropriately touched electronically have had the CAN bus, and sometimes another one too, and from what I've gathered many of the cheap OBD2 things only do CAN. The older serial standards you mentioned (likely J1850 VPW or PWM (yes, they are different... thanks auto makers)) are all in the tens of kilobits per second range and that's why "OBD2" data sample rates are so slow. The CAN-OBD2 interface, which was required in the US as of model year 07 I believe, is usually 250kbps IIRC and can support a much higher sample rate as a result. OBD2 and CAN-OBD2 are loving stupid and a giant headache of mine. Standards committees basically lay down and let the OEMs do it whatever retarded way they want.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2016 21:51
|
|
|
That's what I mean - the manufacturer-specific serial ports you mentioned are all slow as gently caress, constrained by hardware to a very low bitrate, I think the highest is somewhere near 40kbps. The CAN upgrade of OBD2 in the 00s (maybe 90s on some makes) as you said, added another interface on two previously unused or differently tasked pins, and is a huge improvement. OBD1 was basically "you have to have an OBD system, but we aren't telling you how to implement it" so of course all the auto makers used their existing awful 80s pulsewidth modulated or variable pulsewidth (these are the same general idea, but completely incompatible, naturally) setup and their own connector and put the connector wherever they wanted. OBD2, they tried to standardize it but all the manufacturers balked, so it basically ended up being all the OBD1 standards rolled into one standard-ish connector on different pins so that at least you could always find the port (it has to be within x feet of the drivers seat) and plug the scantool in. There are various stupid differences and incompatibilities and many cars and scantools aren't actually 100% compliant with the 'standard' so you get things like some versions of the ELM327 branded dongle that won't work with some makes/models/years (Fords, IIRC) for "reasons". It's quite obnoxious. CAN, they finally said alright, this wildly differing electrical interface with different physical layer encoding is nonsense, you all have to support CAN bus with at least this subset of bitrates by this year. No excuses. The higher layer protocols that are layered on top of it however are a stupid annoying setup that basically amounts to encapsulating the older incompatible serial message streams in the new data standard, kinda like how the PC memory map still has reserved areas for where the ROM extensions, BIOS, upper memory area, etc were back in 19fucking80something. Standards: the great thing about them is there are so many to choose from! e: CAN bus itself is of course simply a hardware and low level comms protocol, the magic (or disaster) is in what you layer on top of it. It's an amazing technology and I do love it, I just dislike the turds the auto industry went and dropped in the punchbowl, if you will. It's still worlds better than the older interfaces.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2016 22:59
|
|
|
A few minor things on the driveshaft video... The reason for that circular indent (and also the hole drilled through the middle) on the driftmotion adaptor is actually something known as a locating feature. In this case, the hole (which is closely toleranced to the diameter of the tip of the pinion gear where it sticks out of the 3-holed flange that used to bolt to the Giubo bushing you removed) keeps the adaptor from going off center from the pinion, and the circular indent and the ring ridge sticking out of the ujoint adaptor slot together similarly to keep those on-axis. This all keeps the driveshaft from being off center on the pinion flange, which would feel like a really badly unbalanced driveshaft while driving. Also - those aren't nylon pins, it's actually melted nylon injected through those little holes to glue the ujoint caps into the ears of the driveshaft and yoke. The reason you couldn't get the ujoint out is actually probably twofold - first, since the nylon is injected through those little holes into annular slots around the ujoint cap and yoke ear, even after torching it till it squirts out, you have to keep it melted while hammering the ujoint out. Second, since that driveshaft came from the rustbelt, it's quite likely that there was some corrosion between the cap and ear as well and you just needed to give it a bit more hammer love to overcome that. Being skittish about that is perfectly fine, it's better to bring it to a pro when you're worried than it is to keep blasting it with a hammer till you've bent the ears and the ujoint binds or won't even go in. I typically do GM nylon-injected ujoints the same way you did, except as soon as I get it hot, I prop the unconnected ujoint trunnions on the jaws of a vise tightened to barely allow the yoke ear to pass between them, then slam the yoke ear with a hammer right between the ujoint cap and the driveshaft tube. This way you're using the ujoint to push each cap out individually (as soon as you get one cap out, you flip it over and do the same thing again) instead of trying to push two caps and a ujoint through to get the first cap out. It does take some practice. Sucks about the grease, I think that happens to everyone the first time they overheat a balljoint or ujoint while trying to press it out. I didn't get burned my first time... ACEofsnett has told me the story of his first grease explosion in a balljoint a few times, it actually blew itself sky high and dented the ceiling in his shop.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2016 21:47
|
|
|
Was gonna say, 51515 is a common filter that Jeep guys love to use. I've always just used s16 stp filters and had no issues, but 51515 is the one everyone with strong feelings about engine oiling seems to go with.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2017 15:27
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 09:15 |
|
|
I dunno, I don't see a pan that fits under there holding enough oil to not overflow when you unscrew the filter, unless you mean a sort of tray or flat funnel that just directs the oil into the actual drain pan.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2017 19:40
|
|