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In keeping with the proud late model Ford tradition, this 2008 4.6L blew a spark plug straight out of the head. Rather than putting a new head onto a motor with 150k miles, I suggested we go the rebuild route and refresh the rotating assembly. As of last night it is running, but there are two connectors on the wiring harness we couldn't find a home for. Any ideas?   We pulled it, stripped it, soaked a lot of it in naphtha, and replaced the rings and bearings. The head went to a machine shop and a thread insert was placed from the inside. We put a slick finish on the head gasket mating surfaces using 2000 grit sandpaper.              It was the budget option, about $550 in parts. We didn't have the crankshaft or heads machined, nor did we touch the cylinder bores beyond using a honing tool. We replaced the oil pump and kept the water pump. The coolant system has a lot of gunk, so we're holding off on the water pump until after the flush. Apparently we can use lye and a T-flush? Are there better options for getting the orange powdery coating out of the coolant system?
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Mar 12, 2016 18:09
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We solved the mystery connectors. One was to the base of the valve cover vent tube, and the one in the back was to an oxygen sensor.
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Mar 12, 2016 23:35
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For the love of god and all that is holy, please DO NOT USE A METAL PLUG-THREAD SLEEVE IN THESE HEADS. Metal serts are notorious for causing knock/pre-det, and have been known to cause cracks in the head. Alternatively, the Trick Flow aftermarket heads fix a lot of issues with the stock heads, flow better, make your cock unimaginably more powerful, etc.
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Mar 13, 2016 02:47
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... double post
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Mar 13, 2016 02:47
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frozenpussy posted:We replaced the oil pump and kept the water pump. The coolant system has a lot of gunk, so we're holding off on the water pump until after the flush. Apparently we can use lye and a T-flush? Are there better options for getting the orange powdery coating out of the coolant system? If your block is not been re-assembled yet, most machine shops have a large cleaning tank that you can get your block dipped in that's pretty drat good at getting the poo poo out. Shouldn't cost too much, did one for the Lighting that only cost me $35 for a full clean.
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Mar 13, 2016 02:50
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TEAH SYAG posted:For the love of god and all that is holy, please DO NOT USE A METAL PLUG-THREAD SLEEVE IN THESE HEADS. Metal serts are notorious for causing knock/pre-det, and have been known to cause cracks in the head. I'm not sure what the style of insert is called, but it was recommended by the machine shop. I don't have experience with that shop, but I trusted them because they have an extensive parts stock as well as rebuilt engines. The selection of engines included the very same 4.6L complete, and a pair of rebuilt 4.6L heads. My only gripe was their treatment of the gasket mating surface, which was rough. There were some scrapes including a pretty deep one at the edge of one of the cylinder bores. To fix it I wood blocked the last quarter of the head best I could, using 800 grit and then 2000. They wanted me to resurface the heads, but I decided against it for compression reasons. I'm hoping the thread insert won't have those issues since we kept the head thickness stock. I was concerned about the thread insert reducing the volume of the combustion chamber, but it was the opposite. It added room compared to the stock spark plug sections. TEAH SYAG posted:If your block is not been re-assembled yet, most machine shops have a large cleaning tank that you can get your block dipped in that's pretty drat good at getting the poo poo out. Shouldn't cost too much, did one for the Lighting that only cost me $35 for a full clean. I didn't consider dunking the block, and if I knew about that option I might have pursued it. That still leaves the rest of the system, though. Certainly now that it's back on the road, we'll just do a conventional flush.
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Mar 13, 2016 05:17
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frozenpussy posted:
If I'm reading that right you sanded a portion of the the mating surface enough to remove a scrape? Sorry, you can't do that, you have to resurface the head now. You'll blow head gaskets as fast as you can put them on with an uneven head.
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Mar 13, 2016 06:06
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I blocked it the full length of the head, it was a ridiculous contraption. a wood plank reinforced with angled steel. I got the idea from a second machine shop who I brought the head to. We discussed the options including resurfacing. Yeah, I understand the concept behind why you wouldn't want to do that. I only sanded it down enough to close the gouge at the solid seal around the cylinder bore. It was very slight, you could still see the discoloration from the previous head gasket.
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Mar 13, 2016 06:26
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Oh, okay. The whole head at once should be fine. No worries then.
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Mar 13, 2016 06:31
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frozenpussy posted:We replaced the oil pump and kept the water pump. The coolant system has a lot of gunk, so we're holding off on the water pump until after the flush. Apparently we can use lye and a T-flush? Are there better options for getting the orange powdery coating out of the coolant system? Try Thoro-Flush, it's supposedly the beast poo poo you can get. I have a bottle and have yet to use it on my Stop-Leak infected Miata. I'll report back with the results, should be doing it in a few days. http://www.amazon.com/Irontite-Thoro-Flush-9110-16-16-oz/dp/B00JJ1FB28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457927236&sr=8-1&keywords=thoro+flush
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Mar 14, 2016 04:49
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leica posted:Try Thoro-Flush, it's supposedly the beast poo poo you can get. I have a bottle and have yet to use it on my Stop-Leak infected Miata. I'll report back with the results, should be doing it in a few days. Awesome, thanks. 16 ounces sounds like you're supposed to add it and forget it for a while? It would be nice if I don't have to deal with adding a T into the coolant line at the back of the motor.
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Mar 14, 2016 07:08
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It's a powder that you mix with a gallon of water and you can't run it for more than 15 minutes or it does damage to the cooling system. It's heavy duty poo poo, but apparently it works well at getting out stop leak and other nasty poo poo (thanks PO).
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Mar 14, 2016 18:26
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leica posted:It's a powder that you mix with a gallon of water and you can't run it for more than 15 minutes or it does damage to the cooling system. It's heavy duty poo poo, but apparently it works well at getting out stop leak and other nasty poo poo (thanks PO). holy poo poo
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Mar 14, 2016 22:21
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I'm still having an issue, the motor stutters under load while the CEL blinks. Idle, ignition, acceleration even is fine. But past 70mph it starts stuttering pretty bad. Code is cylinder 1 misfire, no oil in the coolant or anything. Please help god bless namaste
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May 6, 2016 23:39
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It's pretty easy to rip a coil boot when you're pulling everything apart. swap coils between 1 and 5, see if the misfire moves.
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May 6, 2016 23:56
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Powershift posted:It's pretty easy to rip a coil boot when you're pulling everything apart. swap coils between 1 and 5, see if the misfire moves. Hey Powershift just to update: the owner installed new coils finally and the problem went away. Thanks
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Jun 12, 2016 03:14
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