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Deviant posted:i put in a claim with my homeowners regarding my roof damage, due to a hailstorm. they denied the claim, citing the damage was under my deductible. Some deductibles are for wind AND hail. Do you have a copy of your policy, or at least the partial that they send with the declarations page every year? Or - PM me. I'm an insurance adjuster.
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Jun 8, 2021 03:59
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Sticky Date posted:Is this the right thread for sinks? Doing a kitchen reno and looking at the granite/quartz composite sinks, there are a lot of reviews about cracking and chipping, basically people having to baby them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-...1-CM1/206891069 The one I bought from Depot six years ago when I remodelled our kitchen was similar to this, but with a center drain. It's been fine, no cracks or chips. I even drilled more holes (for a 3-hole faucet) no problem. As noted, it is not as forgiving as stainless, so things dropped are at greater risk for breakage. The sink itself is perfect.
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Jun 9, 2021 15:31
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PageMaster posted:Sorry to hijack your post, but would you care to say or take a picture of how your undermount sink is held and if your countertop sits directly on the cabinet or plywood? We're going through the same remodel and the installers are done but I don't know if I entirely trust their work; may just be me being harsher in my stuff but yours looks perfect so I can go back and argue with the installer about how to fix it. And yes, there should be adhesive caulk applied around the perimeter of the sink's contact surface. PageMaster posted:I think the plywood might also be just acting as a riser to keep the countertop lip from blocking drawers, but should not be this tall:
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Jun 9, 2021 16:30
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emocrat posted:I am in the early stages of refinishing a basement room that was originally "finished" in about 1972ish. Exterior walls are block and they installed furring strips and then put wood paneling on that. When they installed electrical outlets, instead of surface mounts or anything, they just used a hammer to smash out a hole in the block wall and recessed the box in that. See pic. I would shove something in the block, such as styrofoam. Not paper or wood...something nothing will eat. You could also just use expanding foam. No reason is has to be concrete. Your biggest problem will be figuring out how much for good fill, and stopping short of having a giant wad shooting out of your wall.
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Jun 17, 2021 02:54
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Steve French posted:Does anyone know anything about asphalt shingle treatments like Roof Maxx? https://roofmaxx.com/ My first question: Is your roof leaking? Answer to your post: Don't. They're spraying your roof with a sealer. Roofers have been doing this for nearly a century; this is just re-packaging the trick & charging more (it's now about a grand to spray up to 20-squares). Hardly anyone does it any more on asphalt-shingle roofs, because roofers make far more money selling you a new roof. As already noted, it's a lot of woo about how soybean oil magically penetrates the asphalt coating. It doesn't; it can't. If it could, you have far bigger problems with your roof. Once they do this, you will have to replace the roof. I've toured the GAF plant in Parsippany (NJ) as part of my job and watched shingles being made. Shingles fail due to UV and age; the rate at which they fail is due more to the thickness of the foundation material (essentially, tar paper, with fiberglass bound in), then the adhesive that holds the granules, and the granules themselves. New roofs begin shedding granules immediately, and will shed them throughout the life of the installed shingle, although friction/mechanical action (walking on them, dragging tree limbs) accelerate this somewhat. The difference between 25-year and 40+year shingles is the thickness & composition of the foundation, and the amount of granular media coating on it. What finally kills a roof is when the foundation becomes so brittle that you cannot bend a shingle back far enough to swing a hammer cleanly to nail a new shingle in below it. Such a roof may have a couple of repairs left in it, but it's a game to see if you can slide in +1 new shingle than you wind up cracking. And for the love of god, don't powerwash your roof, or clean it with chemicals. You are trading years of roof life for a temporary aesthetic improvement. ______ Unless your roof is actively leaking somewhere, leave it alone. If it does start to leak, call a licensed roofer and see if it can be repaired. If your roof is near the end of its life, but still tight, you can wait and see if you hit the lottery, i.e. a windstorm blows off a few tabs, and a roofer finds that you roof fails the brittle test. If this happens, call your homeowners insurance. Once they confirm that the roof can't be repaired, they'll pay to replace (possibly) the entire roof, The only caveat is: the southern exposure ages out faster (unless you have good shade) so they may cover replacing only one slope if the northern side is still good. I am an adjuster. I have done thousands of roof claims. We replaced our roof last year. It was installed in 1985 with 20-year shingles. I repaired it probably ten times since buying the house in 1992. They were finally so brittle I couldn't get a new shingle in, but that roof never leaked once in 33-years. It cost me the deductible to get a new roof. Wallet posted:Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly. EVERY MORNING I WAKE UP ROLL OVER AND SLAM LED PHOTONS INTO MY RETINA PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 12:56
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Well, my $25K contingent offer for a building lot in Lindenwold, NJ was accepted. I’ve hired a lawyer for the contract and am calling a title company in the morning for the search & (hopefully) clearance of the deed/title. Will arrange a deposit with the seller.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:32
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On the other hand, if you're a heavy smoker, about six months will see it matched right up.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:49
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Vim Fuego posted:
Getting a real Magnum P.I. Vibe. Sweet!
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Jul 12, 2021 14:34
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Go down to whatever you have in the way of a township and find out what, if any, permits need to be pulled and whether or not there will be any zoning issues.
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Jul 12, 2021 16:28
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Gave house a bath today with Mold Armor EZ wash or something and can confirm it is very satisfying. I had no idea my windows were so nasty. House looks 100% less decrepit would recommend. I have restored all of the original wood windows in my house, which was built around 1930. Danhenge posted:I will be making a thread about my house sometime "soon" (next few months?), and one of the things I'll be talking about is the windows. The class was primarily focused on refurbishing rather than maintenance as such but I'll share everything I'm doing and what I remembered from what I learned. I kept mine completely stock, except I swapped out the sash rope for chain. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 14:36
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Danhenge posted:Careful, the original pulleys are built with the expectation that you're using rope, so chain can be rough on them. The sash chain I was able to score rides well in the existing pulleys, which are extremely sturdy. I am under no illusions that these windows will survive the next owner after I die. They don't seal anywhere near as well as a modern double-hung unit; I installed new storm windows everywhere 20-years ago. They help. Hell the house is old & drafty, even after I blew in insulation. I'm good with it. I do believe that there will come a time when buyers may cherish original and fully-functional wood windows, not least because I have yet to meet anyone who doesn't immediately tear them all out and upgrade. No matter what you do to yours, the general attitude seems to be that if they ain't super-tight double-insulated units, they'll be torn out. So refurbish & re-build them for you.    
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Jul 26, 2021 19:51
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Inner Light posted:Newbie question: Is there any significant disadvantage to replacing wooden original windows with vinyl replacements, besides the fact that you're losing an original piece? The only noticeable (negative) (aside from using the absolute cheapest windows and having them installed by a hack, as the post above attest) is that windows/your glazed area will be somewhat smaller since another frame is being inset into the old opening. That really isn't a biggie. In exchange, it'll be warmer/cooler than the old original wood sashes. If you get tilt-ins you'll really notice it come window-washing time. Not counting my front porch, I have ten double-hung windows with exterior storm units. That's eighty surfaces to clean, and the exterior face has to be done from outside after removing the storm window inserts. It's an all-day job. Then there's the four, 9-light swing windows between the living room & front porch. I'm about done cleaning them; the glazing putty is falling out in chunks, so the next major window project is chasing out the old glazing putty, replacing cracked glass, and re-applying glazing putty to 36 l'il 9"X 6" panes. And re-painting them. If you do re-glaze old wood windows, for the love of christ, don't substitute caulk for glazing putty, which can be purchased in tubes like caulk. It's an absolute nightmare to remove. mutata posted:Ok but what about aluminum frame windows that are filthy with track designs that fold over onto themselves 6 times and are impossible to get clean? That's what faced my enclosed front porch when I moved in in 1992. They looked like they came out of a fuckin' school bus. Lord how I hated them. Took eight years to save the money to replace them with decent vinyl double-insulated casement units. Twenty-one years on, they're holding up well, but you gotta do the maintenance: keep them clean, wipe down the seals with silicone, lubricate the hinges & crank units... or are you taking about those wild Florida Room things with six thin panes that telescope together as you raise them? My in-laws had those in Ocala, with some weird 10-mil plastic instead of glass. Wonder what they look like now, after fifteen years. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 27, 2021 |
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Jul 27, 2021 00:31
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FuzzySlippers posted:I'm looking for some advice for how to go about this. As posted in the Seattle thread a big drat tree fell on my house: A job this size obviously warrants GC rates/ profit & overhead (10%+10%). If possible you want a licensed general contractor. A couple things that absolutely should be happening: - the tree has to be removed (may need a crane) and the roof tarped as soon as possible; - an engineer should be evaluating the structural integrity of at least that part of your house. Are you sure it's safe to live in? It is absolutely your call, they cannot refuse, especially with those pictures. Your insurance coverage includes additional living expense reimbursement for food & lodging for you & your pets if you have to stay elsewhere. The insurance company, or at least the adjuster, should have knowledge of contractors. Most of them have a vendor / direct repair program. We sometimes don't like to refer in case poo poo goes south, but I'd ask. No competent contractor should be charging for an estimate. Especially in this market. Also, you'll want to see their liability insurance certificate and the actual permits for the work (no, the permit application doesn't count...) before they start. Any contractor worth their salt will gladly & readily produce these. The first national outfits that come to mind are Paul Davis Restoration and Belfor (although Belfor is hideously expensive) Where are you located (ZIP code)(SEATTLE!)? I'll see if I can rustle up some contractors out of our system...Who is your insurer? - PM me or I'll send you my email. DO NOT HIRE A PUBLIC ADJUSTER e: should have read the following post from KaiserSchnitzel) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 00:29
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Public adjusters work on a contingency fee: a percentage of the payout. That's your money, and you will need it. Like contractors, YMMV but my general experience is that they do absolutely the bare minimum, and once they get your check & their cut, they disappear faster than the genie after wish #3
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Jul 28, 2021 00:57
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Arsenic Lupin posted:My husband and I are 62, and we need grab bars in the shower just in case. This is the shower stall in our new house. You could screw a layer of luan onto it, then install whatever you like. I did this to install glass tile - luan, then 1/4” Hardiebacker, mastic, tile.
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Aug 1, 2021 21:24
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SANITARY SWEARS
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Aug 6, 2021 01:57
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Thirding; I called a pest service about the mouse infestation in my (failing with dementia) mother’s house. Since their recommended treatment was putting traps everywhere we see feces and find where they’re coming in, my sisters & I did it ourselves. They were coming in through a basement hopper window with a panel for the dryer vent - the remaining glass had broken. A month after sealing it, the last one was gone.
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Aug 6, 2021 02:51
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Queen Victorian posted:I am become Previous Owner, the destroyer of houses. Agh the work I did when I was a poor & desperate homeowner in the 1990s on this place - electric and plumbing - I have lost count of the number of times I have re-done something, initially puzzled by, "what rear end in a top hat did this bullshit?" only to realize it was me. Nothing I did thirty years ago was particularly dangerous, and it served...but drat, I spent weeks shining heavy corrosion off of copper lines I'd repaired but not bothered to clean/shine up at the time. Then there's the ceremonial replacement of gate valves with ball units. It is the curse of never moving, along with restoring poo poo that I already restored once and just aged out, like my front porch wood trim/paint. It's a southern exposure, so it gets UV-blasted.
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Aug 9, 2021 15:03
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FuzzySlippers posted:So I've finally gotten some estimates but one of the companies that turned up didn't give an explicit estimate. Their pitch is that rather than be contracted to build/repair/etc specific things they would want me to sign a contract that made them the "contractor of choice" and empower them to speak directly to insurance. Then they'd perform their own assessment, structural report, etc and negotiate with the insurance to get sufficient payout for the work and potentially additional work. I guess kinda like a public adjustor? This sound dodgy to me, but the guys were nice enough and eager to answer questions. Is this an actual thing? I'm getting flack from my father in law that this is the kind of thing I should be doing rather than all my effort cluelessly talking to contractors It is dodgy. I have encountered these types of guys, they're all over, but particularly egregious in the 'roof warranty/replacement only' category...and I tell them all to gently caress off unless they can show me their public adjuster's license. Even a licensed PA cannot dictate to me when and how to communicate with my insureds - only a lawyer can do that. If the PA behaves, I may work through them as a courtesy. If they don't behave, they're a fifth wheel and I tell them only what is absolutely necessary - which amounts to negotiating the value of a claim, and only that. There's some risk, too: having a public adjuster does not shield you from the dodgy and illegal poo poo a dumb PA may try to do. Nice doesn't fix poo poo; competence does. Motronic posted:You seem to have found the contractor equivalent of an ambulance chasing lawyer. Yup. 'Eager' in this market reeks. Run away. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 13:43
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I have had the following conversation more times than I can count in the past year: Insured: My roofer, who just notified me of this *gestures at sixteen-month-old hail damage never noticed before, and that is invisible from the ground* says that I must have a new roof. *I inspect. 20-shingles damaged, roof is not that old, passes a brittle test, not composed of weird unicorn shingles; clearly repairable* (hail chaser in brotruck with Georgia tags and a burner phone) *yells from ground* IT'S FUBAR Me (to insured): OK here's $1600 to make a $450 repair. Insured: My roofer says it can't be fixed, here's an estimate for $16,000 Me: It's an 11-square roof on a 1-story house with a reasonably low pitch. Maybe $8000 to replace at worst, in current market. Me: OK let's have another roofer inspect it with your roofer since, after 35-years in the business, I don't know poo poo (Roofers inspect together. Hail chaser usually doesn't even get on the roof) (Hail chaser admits roof is repairable) Me (to insured): see, it's repairable, even your roofer agrees. ~a week passes~ Insured: My roofer says that the roof isn't repairable. I want a new roof. Me: (calls hail chaser): WTF. HC: We don't repair roofs. We're a "roof warranty company." We only replace roofs. Me: not my problem. You know the roof is repairable. HC: (pick one) I never said that / Yes, but we don't do that / it won't match / you can't warranty a repair. Me: there's no warranty on the roof now. Me: (calls insured): You need a new roofer to inspect this. Try someone local! Insured: You're not the boss of me. Me: True; you want a new roof, that's up to you. What the insurance will cover is another issue altogether. Insured: You're an rear end in a top hat, take me to your leader. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 14:34
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cruft posted:Let me give you the flip side of this, from personal experience. OK, let me see if I have this right. Did you call in a claim under your homeowner's insurance, or did some rando just show up & say that he was from your insurance company? If you called in a claim, that's the record that may affect your rates. If the company adjuster came out, inspected your roof & said that it required a complete replacement due to hail damage, then as far as the insurance company is concerned, that's a payable claim (less your deductible) and it's up to you to decide whether or not you want them to pay you (and probably your mortgage company as well). Your comment about losing roof coverage sounds like an agent (not an adjuster - we don't do that) saying that if you don't repair the hail damage, that they may drop you. Has this subject come up? If you have a hail warranty and your propanel roof was damaged by hail, you should consider calling the company that warranties it and have them make it whole. Motronic posted:You've notified them. The only other thing you can do is notify the property owner's insurer. Property insurance won't, and legally can't, do anything about a tree that is a potential risk but is not actually doing anything. All that can be done is to notify the owner of the property that the tree is on about the hazard (send them a copy of the report); best to do it via certified mail, and keep a copy of everything in the event that the tree does indeed damage your dwelling. THEN your carrier can go after them. Check with your local government about what you may be able to do about parts of a 'threatening' tree that hang over your airspace. You may be permitted to cut it back to the property line.
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Aug 14, 2021 00:48
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Johnny Truant posted:Speaking of fireplaces, I have a question regarding mine, pictured here: Arguably, you don't need one at all; the primary function of a fireplace screen is to prevent embers from launching into your living room and scorching your floor/carpet. If you search, "fireplace screens" there are a wide variety. I remember a neighbor had one that was just chain-link curtains. Smoke is not an issue with a clean, complete and intact flue and liner, whether there's a screen there or not.. There's always a little on first lighting, but the draw should begin promptly. Unless the aesthetics bother you, it should be fine.
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Aug 17, 2021 22:46
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He'll be fine if he follows B-Nasty's suggestions.
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Aug 18, 2021 00:31
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Ball Tazeman posted:So this area where the drywall looks fucky started sweating today. I thought it was just a patch that looked weird but it seems like it’s actually water damaged. The tile under is also very cracked in that area and there’s some big chunks of grout missing. I figured when we moved in that there was just an overflow at some point because the other side of that wall (my closet) was mildewy, but now I’m a little more worried because it’s been dripping water. It has not been raining and as far as I know, there is no sort of piping in that spot, it all goes straight down to the basement. I noticed the toilet tank sweating from heat/humidity. Can it just be traveling down the lovely grout and up the wall? I’m pretty worried and it’s now just another thing stressing me the gently caress out. Last thing I need to deal with is water damage and loving mold. Water goes down. The source is at or above the area of highest water damage. It's causing the grout issue, not the other way around. First things that come to mind: Stack vent is leaking. The stack is a pipe goes up through your roof, and when the vent stack boot goes bad, you get water running down it every time it rains. It is usually within a couple feet of the toilet location, so it could very well be in the side wall. As noted: A/C condensate leak. If you have an A/C unit/air handler in an attic space above the bathroom, it might be clogged. However, you would typically see more widespread water damage starting at the ceiling & working its way down. The condensation on the toilet tank is probably due to the raised humidity in the bathroom due to whatever is leaking behind the wall. While you will have to open the drywall to repair it, I would consider having the stack vent boot on the roof checked first.
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Aug 20, 2021 14:31
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Ball Tazeman posted:I’m honestly feeling overwhelmed and way in over my head with the water damage. I really just don’t know where to start or what to do, or if we hire somebody, what kind of contractor would we hire? Also, do we even have the money for it? I guess I’ll ask the council of dads to look at the vent pipe and maybe if there is anything we can see from the basement. I’m just scared to see what the full extent is. Plus we have really weird walls that for some reason have full wood boards behind the drywall. Fixing that wall and flooring has been something I’ve been dreading but now know there is an active water leak makes it a higher priority. You have homeowners insurance? Because that is a covered loss. But seek & find your inner calm, because: Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You need to find and fix the source of the water. That's important and eh, semi-urgent, but not like, you need to do this by next week or your house will fall down. If there's been mildew in your closet since before you bought the house, this has been going on for a while and it can go on for a few more weeks (or honestly probably months and possibly years). If you got it fixed in a month or two, that would be great!
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Aug 21, 2021 03:37
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falz posted:Hey kids I'm going to remodel a bathroom this winter. I'm going to leave all plumbing where it currently is, but replace the 'builder grade' one piece shower/tub combo with a dedicated shower. This is upstairs, there's a tub on main level so that should be fine for old people or whatever. You can get a shower pan that fits into the footprint of a bathtub. That bathroom is the exact layout and appears to be very close in dimensions to a Philadelphia rowhome. QuarkJets posted:I am about to own a house with a gas furnace, but I have never lived in a cold climate until now. How do I furnace? Is it basically like an AC system but for distributing heat? What should I do in terms of maintenance?... Probably. The A-coil for the A/C is usually stacked on top of the furnace, and the hot air passes through it. In the summer, only the A-coil gets chilled. Some homes have a separate A/C air handler in the attic space. - Change the filter at least once a month. - Remove the panel into the air handler below where the furnace flamey bits are (usually the lower one) and vacuum out the space annually. - Keep an eye on the condensate (A/C captured water) drainage. You may have to periodically remove the panel on the A-coil box and clean the condensate pan out. Make sure the drain line doesn't become occluded or clogged. If the condensate escapes the system, it can flood your basement fairly quickly in the summertime. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 16:00
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The brick pointing's all hosed up and also cracked on the wall run. If that pointing isn't done properly, brick walls can leak like sieves
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Sep 5, 2021 04:17
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toplitzin posted:My new house has an interior dryer vent. Mine ran the duct through the floor into the dirt-floored crawlspace. At some point it had a ladies' nylon leg section rubber-banded to the end, presumably as a lint trap. Which, based on the appearance of the interior of the crawlspace when we bought it in 1992, had failed during the Carter administration. It looked like the Easter Bunny exploded in there. Took years to clean it out.
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Sep 20, 2021 19:51
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Tell me more! I have a shower room that desperately needs an external vent, but the wall is 3" thick, the exterior has both asbestos shingles and lead paint, and the space between ceiling and floor of the room above is narrow. I insulated my house with the blown-in kit from Home Depot. The exterior is (from outside in): 6-coats paint (bottom 4 are lead-based); asbestos siding; 3/4" dutch lap, 3/4" tongue & groove sheathing. Used a diamond hole saw to cut the siding, then a 1/4" smaller diameter hole saw to cut through the sheathing. As Motronic said: if you are concerned about the dust, wear a good mask or respirator, and wet the area down. Once you get through the siding - which won't take long - it's all wood from there on in. On the inside, tape a paper bag underneath & across the area where you'll be cutting your hole, it should catch everything. I didn't take any precautions, but I'm an old bastard & don't care.
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Sep 20, 2021 20:01
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Vim Fuego posted:That's from the previously installed carpet. They just didn't remove it! I have been in a home where they laid snaplock laminate right over the carpet. Whole time I was there I felt like I was drunk.
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Sep 22, 2021 04:43
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Ja, I had a wizard in my basement in 1974 that somehow installed Romex everywhere but tied it into the knob & tube whenever it went up inside a wall because the walls are all plaster+lath. It worked - hence the wizard part. Problem is as soon as the next idiot comes along and starts working on the wiring, all kinds of weird poo poo would happen. This idiot finally got sick of the weird poo poo like a receptacle in the laundry room being on the same circuit as a light in the front porch (the other end of the house) and random untraceable flickerage. And not having any way to install ceiling fans or to have grounded receptacles. I was able to locate every ceiling box and vertical wall drop and use a hole saw to cut access through the attic floor and fish new wire. It really does depend on your house. Mine is a 1.5 story balloon-frame bungalow with an unfinished basement. Your two-story+ house will have to have some plaster opened up for chasing new wire, and boy howdy will that ever create a gigantic lovely mess.
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Sep 23, 2021 02:30
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spf3million posted:Anything wrong with throwing a bunch of flattened cardboard boxes on top of the dirt in our crawl space? I plan on crawling around down there to do some wiring projects over the next couple of months and it'd be nicer to be laying on cardboard than dirt. No evidence of previous water intrusion. No, but be sure to retrieve it when you're done. Cardboard is crack to termites.
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Sep 24, 2021 03:59
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SpartanIvy posted:Here is your reminder that you should clean off your AC condenser fins every once in a while. Oh god I did this a few years ago with my Goodman. First off, the fan motor is hard-wired to the case (there's a junction box at the bottom - next time, I'm cutting the wires & installing a Jones plug, because hanging that thing from the window with a homemade 10-gauge hanger was no bueno). After that, you have to remove the case, which is made up of four panels held to each other with 1,000 sheetmetal screws. So you have to lay down in the shrubbery & be exsanguinated by the Jersey Air Force while removing & replacing. I combed mine out with a fingernail brush - the fins were not bent. No high-pressure air or water. After all that there was no appreciable increase in efficiency or cooling. :/ I checked it this year & it has some crud, but not enough to go through that poo poo again.
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Oct 10, 2021 02:35
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Inner Light posted:Exsanguinated by the Jersey Air Force? Skeeters? Yes. Now featuring tiger mosquitoes, which are somehow slightly worse than the standard Culex erraticus and the three other species now draining mammals in your hometown. It's one of the reasons I worship every spider I can find, and the bats. I pray for genetic elimination of these particular species. The remaining 61-species that infest New Jersey are harmless to humans, so there would be no impact on those that feed on mosquitoes. /end rant PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 15:31
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slave to my cravings posted:are these what have been biting me all day every day this summer? Mosquitoes have been wicked this year. Especially below the knees. They are rapacious little fucks.
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Oct 10, 2021 18:42
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Good goddamn that's a thing of beauty
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Oct 17, 2021 02:41
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BadSamaritan posted:Apologies, I agree it was unclear. PO had the roof fixed after a series of big storms in 2016. There is a mark on the ceiling left over from this time period, but attic and plaster were in good condition otherwise. Ja as Vim Fuego said, first thing is to check wherever there is a created opening through the roof, be it for a chimney, vent, or skylight, particularly if they are 'uphill' from the ceiling spot. Could be flashing, could be a bad boot. Take strong light into the attic space. If it's been going on long enough, even if it's only during wind-driven rain, you should find some water staining on the roof framing and/or sheathing. Possibly some rot, if it's a really old intermittent leaker. The easiest & cheapest short-term repair, particularly since to are replacing the roof, is to cold-patch it, but keep it off of siding materials or anything you want to keep. In the Philadelphia area, expect to pay $250-$750, possibly more if the roofers are scarce, to have it sealed, even a little spot; factors will be height of roof, slope steepness, accessibility, and availability. If you are around here, let me know, I can reach out to the folks I work with if you have trouble locating someone. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Oct 20, 2021 |
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Oct 20, 2021 01:55
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A couple pages back...Rythe posted:Bought and moving into my first ever house and obviously there are a few projects that I would like to do but adding solar to our roof is pretty high on the list. The house is only 15 years old so I'm not worried about the roof needing to be replaced anytime soon, all the inspections show everything is in great shape, . Panels have to come off, and be mindful that the company you choose to do the install might require you to use them to remove them too, in order to "preserve the warranty." at whatever rate they decide to charge. couldcareless posted:Dealing with this right now. We had to pay to have the panels removed so we can get the roof redone. Insurance covered the cost of removal and eventual reinstallation since the roof repair was covered as well. Yes, we will cover this so long as the roof repair/replacement is due to a covered loss.
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Nov 1, 2021 14:23
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Some Guy From NY posted:Talking about water heaters... Yes. Contact Rheem and initiate the process to get it replaced, or at least get reimbursed for the power vent, if you still can. The 2015 Rheem power vent units were defective. Had exactly the same problem when I installed mine; For months, I replaced a few parts, then when the problem persisted did some online digging, and found a ton of other folks with the same issue. Got ahold of Rheem, and first they wanted me to throw parts at it (they sent the parts for free). Oddly, they never suggested replacing the power vent unit. The only (other) thing I hadn't replaced by then was the control head as it was nearly $400. They sent me one, I installed it and dutifully waited until the unit shut itself down (by this point I was checking the loving thing daily, because a cold shower sucks), called Rheem & they finally OK'd a replacement. I bought mine at Home Depot on sale, so I returned it there. Still wound up paying $350, can't remember why, but the replacement unit has worked flawlessly since late 2017. The only noticeable difference was the power vent unit was from a different manufacturer, so you might have slain the dragon. B-Nasty posted:I'm bringing back flood insurance talk, because I saw this article today which has some good info about how the NFIP's Risk Rating 2.0 is really going to hammer properties near water: https://www.newsday.com/business/flood-insurance-rate-increases-fema-nfip-climate-change-1.50411873 Just as well. Building on beaches, especially on barrier islands, is hubris to the stupidest degree. 2016:  2021: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 17:20
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Blinkz0rz posted:To play devil's advocate, my house is in a dip in a large hill but because there's running water along the dip, we're in a flood zone and have to carry flood insurance. I don't think there's ever been a record of flooding but our flood insurance is probably going to go up because of this change. Feels kinda not great, no? Eh, may not be too bad. NFIP rates the flood zones, part of that is severity and frequency. A natural swale is a somewhat lesser risk, probably, than salt-water coast/islands
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Nov 7, 2021 20:44
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