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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

That's unfortunate. It's definitely thicker than I would like but you could try using some DAP or some paintable silicone and then use the same paint as your trim to finish. You will need to be careful when putting the bead on though or it will look awful if you're not smooth.

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I'm a total Bosch DW fan and periodically wipe down the gaskets that have dirty dishes drip stuff on them when loading, but I don't think I've gotten down and taking a good look at the bottom seal. I'll do that today.

Speaking of, how often are you guys pulling the strainer and cleaning it out?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I'm in Canada and when we built our current home (2-storey) I made a point of putting premium vinyl plank (that's gotta be an oxymoron) throughout the house, because, like you I dislike carpet and the dust that it inevitably always retains, and other clean up issues especially if you have pets. We went with cork after 5 years on our last house even a well maintained 5 year old carpet will absolutely shower you with ground in crud when you rip it out.

Mrs. Slidebite had veto on plank in the basement so we did agreed on a low cut closed loop, almost Berber type carpet there.

5 years later in our current home I personally wish we did plank throughout but I am OK with our compromise.

That said, I have been in houses since that have not had carpet in the basement and it is quite cool on the feet. I think heating would fix that for sure, but a few strategically placed non-permanent carpets (like decent quality large-ish throw rugs where the feet hit the floor coming out of bed) might be adequate as well.

In floor heating for the bathroom/en suite might also be enough, but heating the entire floor for sure would take a chill off. It will probably somewhat heat your entire room tbh.

There are some people that might frown on it for resale, but it would actively be a huge positive for me. Carpets are disgusting and many owners will replace them as soon as they buy a home (similar to painting) or maybe even before they list it for showing purposes.

Something to consider if you do this throughout, assuming you have stairs, is precisely how you'll do the stairs. Carpeted stairs are typically deeper but you will want to put noses on with plank/laminate and also decide how to finish the rise. Tile? Wood? In the end we went with a wood painted gloss off white to basically match our baseboards and window trim.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Apr 27, 2022

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

actionjackson posted:

I'm on the bottom floor of a three story building, so I don't have a roof, and only one wall faces the outside, as I have neighbors on both side, and a parking garage below me. It's quite random, not that frequent, and doesn't seem to be tied to anything I'm doing (I was not running anything at this time).
It could be literally anything.

But,
is most likely.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I've got a purchase of both a stove and an outdoor grill on the semi-near horizon. I was leaning towards gas for both - gas oven, and a grill with natural gas lines that connect directly to your house (no propane tanks necessary). I've been hearing rumblings that going this route may not be wise, from a few perspectives. One, that natural gas prices may rise dramatically in the nearish future (I was reading all this before the Ukraine situation too), and two, that at this point it's not environmentally conscious to buy natural gas devices any longer. The latter point doesn't bother me too much (since climate change isn't something solved at an individual level), but potentially spending a combined $3,000 on gas appliances two years before natural gas sees a 10x in price does have me feeling some trepidation. I see also that there are areas of the country that are banning natural gas in new builds now, which adds to this concern.

What's the sentiment among you all?
Personally, gas whenever possible.

Where I live, gas is the fuel source for the vast majority of electricity being made.

This time of year, home gas usage is limited other than cooking a few times a week which is absolutely nothing compared to running your furnace for heating. I also prefer gas for clothes dryers but I am on electric as getting gas to my 2nd storey in our home would have been a pain in the dick.

I doubt it will become 10x the price anytime in the foreseeable future (and if it does, electricity will likely track in a significant way) but, who knows what the future will bring. :shrug:

slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:18 on May 4, 2022

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Yooper posted:

I'm seeing a lot of pellet grills and smokers for sale lately but it just seems like a way to get folks to buy another consumable.
Oh god, pellets.

Pellets used to be a way to do value-added for otherwise wasted product from the lumber industry and tbf it was a reasonable idea.

Now the waste product is incredibly sought after on its own right. Pellets have seen major price increases year over year no real way to slow it down.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

FISHMANPET posted:

I'm in the great white north (Minnesota) so I've currently got gas for my boiler, water heater, dryer, and stove. Our gas stove is like 20+ years old and was probably cheap when it was first purchased, so it's probably our next appliance upgrade. I'm really trying to convince the Mrs to switch to Induction. My understanding is that for the oven part, electric is objectively better than gas (burning gas introduces additional moisture into the oven?). And once you've gotten cookware that works with induction, I'm not sure what the downsides actually are compared to gas (well, I can't put a poblano pepper directly over the open flame to roast it like I see on cooking shows). The upsides to me are less gas combustion in the house, which does have negative health side effects (even with ventilation, which we have), easier to clean (a smooth glass surface vs all the nooks and cranny of a gas range), and I'll admit the hippie-liberal instinct to burn fewer fossil fuels*. Plus I think it's cool! Cooking with magnets! I actually bought a countertop induction plate, and I've been amazed at how well it performs, and it can only go up to 1800 watts of power.

If/when I replace my water heater I'm not sure if I'll go with electric or gas, but gas is surely more common around here. And while I have electric Air Source Heat Pumps for AC and they can provide some heating, there's really currently no substitute for burning gas for heating during a cold winter, so regardless of what stove I get, there will still be plenty of gas being used in the house.
Our gas range has a gas oven and I quite like it, probably more because I like the flame broiler, and the convection is the bees knees, but a lot of people do prefer electric ovens. So much so a dual range is definitely a thing with gas cooktop and electric oven.

Induction certainly has its fans and I think it is only going to get more and more common.

Water heaters, electric *typically* costs less out the gate but gas is less expensive to operate and are much faster to heat/recovery times. Gas also typically have a longer life span.

Another thing to consider (not much of a concern for most of us) gas has the ability to work to some extant in a power failure. Many (most?) current water heaters need AC for controls/exhaust so that might be negated.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Also, Windowchat. Warranty is huge. What is the warranty, exactly? Include labor? Entire sealed unit no questions asked? Pro-rated after the first year? From the date of install or the date they were manufactured?

Even quality windows fail from time to time or have a bad batch. Should be minimal, but it can happen.

I had 3 sealed units (all from within the week manufacture) of a respected window manufacturer fail after approx 5 years. The factory guy came to my house and swapped the sealed units and didn't cost me a dime (and a couple of them were awkward as hell to get to).

Speaking to others, that does not sound like the norm after a couple years.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Is there an appliance-centric thread or is this the best place? Troubleshooting and repair specifically.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

If you want something non-selective (IE: If it's green, it's going to die) find something with Glyphosphate. Round up is the obvious one.

Despite some people that are VERY vocal against it, it's quite safe and dissolves from the environment quickly especially if you're just doing a spot here and there. For best results you typically don't want to spray within a few hours (or day is better) of rainfall/watering.

As with all yard chemicals, it's best to wear gloves and not spray it into your eyes or try to see what it tastes like. :saddowns:

My father in law (RIP) used to swear by the selective, lawn-safe version of Spectracide. If you're not doing many weeds, nothing wrong with old fashioned digging them up. Quite effective, except with some weeds like quackgrass which are a pain in the dick. I have to chemical bomb that poo poo.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

unlimited shrimp posted:

Probably not the right thread but maybe, who knows.
While digging around in the old garden shed I found a brand new motor left by the previous owner: https://www.baldor.com/catalog/JSL725A

I know he used to irrigate from the nearby river and I was wondering 1) what is something like this used for, generally, and 2) could this be used as part of a water pumping system?
That's a specialty frame size and was probably attached from an OEM to either a fan, or, a pump. The threaded output shaft also would be used for that.

It's entirely possible it was used on a pumping system. It is not a 56C which is the industrial standard for small HP like that.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

If this is a new-ish home to you, check to see if there are any dampers off the central heating/cooling (typically close to the furnace) for restricting airflow to floors of your home. It's fairly common on multi-floor homes. Photo is in my basement off my furnace, but fairly typical.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

bobmarleysghost posted:

It's not new, but good point, I'll check for those.
I just meant new-ish to you, as in you might not be familiar with the workings of your home. :) Those have been in existence since pretty much the beginning of forced air central heating.

kitten emergency posted:

Wow, they labeled yours? fancy
Lol, I think I labelled it in case I'm out of town and Mrs. Slidebite wants to change it.

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry if this is out of place for the thread but I just bought a couch and I'm wondering what product to use to protect it. It's polyester or something, not leather because my cat would destroy a leather couch. Is scotch-guard the tried and true solution? Sorry the only photo I have of the couch has the price in it. Not intentional and not really that much for a couch apparently as we saw some that were over $20k.


As someone who's had cats pretty much my entire life, they need to be trained from day 1 in your house how to use a cat post/tree and never let them be without one.

If they ever start scratching furniture with regularity you might as well

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

There are really only a handful of "major" manufacturers for appliances now. There are a few smaller specialty/Euro manufacturers (IE: Miele), but for 99% of homeowners it boils down to:

Whirlpool (Owns/manufactures Kitchen-Aid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, few others...)
Electrolux (Also owns Frigidaire)
GE (Hotpoint, few others)
Samsung (dear god no)
LG (Slightly better than Samsung by most accounts)

As others have mentioned, typically, the more basic, the better. FWIW, I did some pretty heavy research back when we bought our current home (2017) and ended up with:

Washer and Dryer: Electrolux
Refrigerator/Freezer: Whirlpool (Kenmore)
Gas Range: Frigidaire (Kenmore)
DW: Bosch

I love Bosch dishwashers. I know some people complain about the drying capability, and it's true, some plastic items especially may not be dry, but god drat, it cleans well. I can easily live with giving some items a quick wipe with a towel from time to time before putting them away.

All of my appliances have been trouble free EXCEPT just recently, my fridge decided not to dispense cold water/ice anymore. I thought it was the main water valve which I replaced but it's still no beuno. I haven't done any other troubleshooting. Otherwise, it still cools very well. It is something I plan to repair though.

Some manufacturers have specific strong suits. For example, GE has a pretty bad rap from a lot of people, but from what I understand they do gas ranges very well. Whirlpool/Maytag had big issues with their front loader washers but top loaders were still pretty good (not sure if that's still the case, the Maytag Neptune washers was regarded by some to be the beginning of the end for Maytag). Frigidaire ranges are typically solid, if not great, but their dishwashers are pretty much "meh"

Many "high end models" like Kitchen-Aid, Frigidaire Gallery, are often mechanically the exact same as much lower priced models with a couple of frills put into it. Like with fridges, a fancy shelf, dishwasher, a couple dB reduction. One of those things were spending more will likely not result in a more reliable appliance.

e: Regarding Samsung, there are some very loyal brand defenders of them for some reason, but the biggest issue, from what I understand with repair people, is parts for the Korean brands, Samsung in particular, are brutal. I know someone that waited over 9 months for a part for their built in oven.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I know nothing about this EIFS stuff. Is there a resource to read about it? It seems (from my quick googling) that it's very similar to how I understand stucco is done here?

The Dave posted:

I really like what I see from the sprayed cork exterior application, but it seems to be a largely Canadian thing right now. They advertise it as a good way to insulate from the outside, as well as encapsulate stucco/masonry.
Cork? Wow. I've never heard of that. I thought anything cork was a fortune.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Shower curtain talk reminded me how much a pain in the rear end getting a curtain for a 6' soaker is.

Most of the descriptions gave dimensions but didn't say which was length and which was height :downs:

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Literally a water closet lol

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Ugh, that sounds terrible. What caused it?

Harriet Carker posted:

I’m moving out of my (rented) apartment and I ripped the drywall when removing some adhesives that were supposed to come off easily. Oops! I don’t have time to fix it. What do you all think a rough estimate to patch and fix with matching paint? Just want to make sure my landlord doesn’t try to stick me with trumped up charges.


That's an afternoon job with some quick dry spackle. My biggest concern would be matching the paint if you don't have any.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I'm close to buying a stove, and the Frigidaire induction model (GCRI3058AF and FGIH3047VF) I'm looking at has two versions; one with back-mounted controls and one with front. The front-mounted is about $200. Cost aside, I'm not sure which I prefer. We've got two young kids so safety is a concern, but it's induction, which is already relatively safe. I'm not sure which would get dirtier either. What do you guys think?
I personally prefer rear controls. I like that if you get any spit/splash on the back from a pot/pan the surface is a quick wipe. Depending on your backsplash (grout?) may not be as easy to clean.

It's probably personal preference at the end of the day, but I do like Frigidaire ranges. Never used an induction though, but I like their gas.

CancerCakes posted:

Has anyone used adjustable paving supports for a floating paver patio? How do you deal with the edge of the patio to conceal the supports and steps. I need to make a patio that is about 7m wide and 1.2m deep with a step all the way round three sides (doors from house on the fourth side) and there is a current patio at low height that is good enough to build off and the adjustables seem like a good way to do this, but I don't understand how to deal with the steps.
I built a deck once with them, I don't think I'd do it again. It was easier to build from the start but not having a proper footing I did need to adjust the height every year or two as things settled.

I personally wouldn't worry about enclosing it because you'll probably need access to them periodically. I guess a guy could make a narrow quasi 2x4 wall or something that's attached on 2 sides and remove with siding treatment of your choosing? Or something like a strip of privacy trellis?
I think a heritage home is one of those things that sound cool, but in practice living in one that you can't significantly modify, gently caress that.

Mirthless posted:

I am moving into a house this week that we have inherited, and that I have been working on, on and off, for about a couple of years now. Part of the inheritance is taking care of my mother in law, a mostly deaf person with a rare genetic disorder that has caused her vision to degrade in a number of particular ways; She has something like a 10 degree field of vision with a very poor ability to make out colors. She can be easily overwhelmed by bright light sometimes, but generally needs the light to be just as bright as she can possibly tolerate.

Because that seems to vary immensely based on the time of the day, the lighting conditions in the room, the amount of sleep she's been getting, etc, etc, etc, I'd really like to get some kind of lighting system set up that can be adjusted on the fly, preferably without having to get up and get to the light switch. Smart bulbs look like a good option that doesn't necessarily require me to replace fixtures, something I haven't really looked into how to tackle yet. I have never been interested in the whole smart home thing before, but it really, really makes sense in making the home more accessible for my mother in law.

I would really appreciate any recommendations in this area, I have no idea what I should be buying! I am willing to spend on this project, at this point, I have sunk so much time and money into this house, what's another few hundred dollars, really? I'd like her to actually see what all this effort (and money!) was working toward, haha.
I too am not a fan of smart bulbs (or basically anything that it IoT), but in this case it might be a reasonable thing to try. The lower K temp lights might help too IE: 2700k vs 5000k. I find them easier on my eyes at least.

Buy a couple and see how they work?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Thanks for the feedback on the stove controls. I think I'm swayed to the front-mounted, even if it costs an extra $200.
Good call. I totally get the preference over front controls. I never considered the range controls being on the back since I have had gas for years and they are always in the front. I just assumed it was only the oven/clock etc :downs:

Pentecoastal Elites posted:

Speaking about siding, does anyone have that Hardie board siding and, if so, how did they like it? Any significant cons beyond the increased expense?
gently caress vinyl for an absolute plethora of reasons.

Quality cement/hardi over it, all the way.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

If a person is deciding on what kind of siding to get, it might be worthwhile to check any impacts on your insurance premium.

When I was entertaining changing companies for our new home a couple years back, I was quoted a higher premium because they "assumed" it was vinyl (I guess its the default now?) Hardie/cement was a beneficial impact on my rates... it wasn't insignificant either, something like 10%.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

As a fairly new person in this thread, have we talked about Radon?

From the :canada: government
https://www.canada.ca/en/health-can...anada-2009.html

quote:

What are the Radon Levels in Canada?

All homes in Canada have radon gas in them.
Concentrations differ greatly across the country, but are usually higher in areas where there is a higher amount of uranium in underlying rock and soil.

Radon concentration levels will vary from one house to another, even if they are similar designs and next door to each other. No matter the age, type of construction or where your home is located, the only way to be sure of the radon level in your home is to test.
What is the Current Canadian Guideline for Radon in Indoor Air?

The Canadian guideline for radon in indoor air for dwellings is 200 Becquerels per cubic metre (200 Bq/m3). A Becquerel is a unit that measures the emission of radiation per second. The radon level in a dwelling should not be above the guideline. While the health risk from radon exposure below the Canadian guideline is small there is no level that is risk free. It is the choice of each homeowner to decide what level of radon exposure they are willing to accept. The chart below compares the risk of dying of radon-induced lung cancer to other better known risks such as car accidents, carbon monoxide and house fires. The risk of lung cancer from radon gas exposure is significant but preventable. The only way to know your radon level is to test and if high levels are found take action to reduce.

How do I Test my Home for Radon?
There are two options for testing a house for radon: purchase a do-it-yourself radon test kit or hire a radon measurement professional. If you choose to purchase a radon test kit, you must closely follow the instructions to properly complete the test.

If you choose to hire a service provider to perform the radon test in your house, it is recommended that you ensure they are certified and will conduct a long term test for a minimum of 3 months.
Where can I get a Radon Test Device?

Radon test kits may be purchased over the phone, on the internet or from home improvement retailers. The radon test kits include instructions on how to set up the test and to send it back to a lab for analysis once the testing period is over. The cost of testing ranges from $30 to $60. For information on radon testing go to: https://www.takeactiononradon.ca
Where in my Home should I Perform the Test?

To provide a realistic estimate of the radon exposure to your family, all measurements should be made in the lowest lived-in level of the home. That means the lowest level that is used or occupied for more than four hours per day. For some, this may be a basement with a rec room, for others it will be the ground floor. If you only use your basement once a week to do laundry, for example, there is no need to test on that level - your exposure time will not be long enough to create health effects.

Will High Levels of Radon Affect the Value of my House?
Remember all homes have radon gas in them. Where a high radon level is detected, it can be successfully lowered at a cost which is usually small when compared to the value of the house. When a high radon level is found, fixing the problem can help protect the value of your home.

How can I Reduce the Amount of Radon in my Home?
You should fix your home if your radon test result is above the guideline of 200 Bq/m3. Techniques to lower radon levels are effective and can save lives. Health Canada recommends that you hire a mitigation professional certified under the Canadian National Radon Proficiency Program (C-NRPP) ) to help you find the best way to reduce the radon level in your home.

The most common radon reduction method is called sub-soil depressurization. This system works by sucking air (and radon gas) from beneath the foundation of a home and exhausting it outside. Installation of this system generally consists of a pipe installed through the foundation floor and connected to an outside wall or up through to the roof line. A small fan is attached to the pipe which draws the radon from below the house to the outside before it can enter your home.

I purchased a battery powered Radon detector from Amazon that was on sale the other day and put it in our basement spare bedroom that is used from time to time (it's also physically very close to our sump although an interior wall is between them).
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00H30TLPA?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_NHP7RY4XZ7FT384DHQTJ

Initial readings after about 8 hours was 400 Bq/m, which is super early so definitely not a long term average but that's not giving me the good feels and I'll probably be learning about Radon because that sounds like its 2x the guideline if the average doesn't come down signficantly.

That bedroom has a window which is never opened and the door is closed, and neither our furnace or AC have kicked on for days so I'm cracking the bedroom window and see if some fresh air effects things.

One thing after another. :sigh:

Anyone else do testing? Did you have to do any remediation?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

400, but still high.

Definitely watching and seeing how it averages out.

If it's as simple as cracking a window or periodically ensuring air flow, I can easily deal with that.

E: the home is a raised 2 storey with very high, almost 10' ceilings in the basement and main floor, so the basement floor is quite deep which probably isn't helping.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 15:39 on May 27, 2022

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

RE radon,

The levels have started to plummet. I just did a hard reset of the unit and going to let it run for a few days in the middle of our spare room in the basement. For kicks, after a few days I'm going to put it in the unfinished area of my basement where the sump is.

The more I've been looking into it, I find it really interesting. There appears to be a real shortage of people that do measurement, let alone mitigation.

It appears to be a common occurrence in Alberta by looking at this map (assuming this is accurate)

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The one I bought is an Airthings too.

What did you do for mitigation and what is it reading now?

I opened the window in the basement for a few hours during the day, but closed it for the night, and it was 101 this AM (approx 2.7 pci/L)

Its clear I do have some radon in the basement, which isn't a surprise, but I think we're at a perfect worst case in the seasons right now where my central heating/AC have not been on for a basically a couple months due to the weather so there is basically zero air movement at all there. I suspect that will change in the coming weeks as it heats up. I'll keep it in the bedroom (where people might be for 8 hours) for a longer term here and see what it does. But I think I will be looking at getting a pro or even finding out what you need to get certified yourself. I find this whole thing kind of fascinating.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I love my Bosch 12V system, I think their tools are fantastic and just the right size. But if I had to start over again I'd probably go Milwaukee M12. It's just a great ecosystem and the M12 has tons of options.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Toebone posted:

My kitchen has some crummy old fluorescent light panels in the drop ceiling (2’ x 2’) that I’d like to replace with LED panels. Any brands / retailers I should look into?
Other than replace the whole thing and not just the bulbs? Not really. Personally, I'd take a look at costco (both online and in store) and see what they have. That way if they suck or you hate them, you have easy recourse. Be sure you know what temp/color you are getting. I might be weird, but Nothing looks worse than having some super pure white 5500K+ bulb and everything else in the house is 2700k warm/soft.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

That is a super cool idea. I didn't know that kind of thing existed.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Sir Lemming posted:

I've deleted a much more long-winded draft of this post and distilled it down to what I hope is a pretty straightforward question:

I want to attach something to an exterior windowsill, and the easiest way to do that would be to drill into the sill -- but that won't work because it's not wood, but vinyl or some sort of composite. Without getting too in the weeds of trying to describe my windows, is there a well-known solution to this dilemma that I might be overlooking?

I've considered window box planter brackets, but unfortunately these windows also have a bit of a lip, so I don't know if those will work. I kind of want to do something like just Velcro taping a piece of wood to the sill and drilling into that. But a not awful version of that.
Do you have a photo you can post of your window/sill/frame?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Caulking around the base if the shitter is the norm for homes built since the 90s where I live at least. I'm actually having a hard time wrapping my head around not doing it, just for cleaning if nothing else. I agree, you shouldn't have nasties festering in the crack, but piss will invariably get in there and if you have a "shitters full" moment, it's possible other overflow could as well and then have water potentially sitting around the subfloor.

The few toilets I've ever installed are always siliconed to the floor around the base to finish it off.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I might be looking for something that doesn't exist, so thought I'd ask here.

I want a natural gas (NOT propane) patio heater, which isn't crazy on its own, but I want a tabletop one which seems to be a bridge too far. I will plumb a line up the center of our patio table to feed it.

I've not seen any that are not either electric or LPG.....and the ones that are LPG generally say not convertible, if they say anything at all (most do not).

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I. M. Gei posted:

If this is what happened, and I don't deny that it might be, then I don't know how to prove it unless Wikileaks can magically get their hands on a recording of that call that doesn't exist.

When I called the installers yesterday they read the measurements in their system back to me and they were correct. I can try seeing what measurements Lowes got, but since the installer is the customer in this case and not us, I'm not sure if that'll go anywhere.

The installers refused to discount us other than charging 90% of the labor for the installed windows that day and the other 10% when the other one gets put in, on the basis that we (and by "we" here I mean my father, the homeowner) already signed a form agreeing to it, which I don't know how to fight that poo poo and I kinda doubt it's worth it to try.
Who measured the windows and who ordered them? if its the contractor its 100% their problem to fix.

things begin to get complicated if others got involved.

meatpimp posted:

Just an update on gently caress Bosch appliances.

I'm waiting for a replacement wiring harness for the oven/microwave combo at my house, and just got notice that the one I bought for my parents house blew out again. Service call number 4 for my unit, number 5 for theirs.

Absolute garbage.
Never had a Bosch oven of any sort, but our dishwashers and laundry sets have been amazing and perfectly trouble free and reliable. Sucks about your oven/mw tho

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

So, I've got something that's been annoying me for the past few months. My Whirlpool (Kenmore in name) decided that the water would not dispense, for either the water dispenser or ice maker.

Some googling shows that the water inlet valve is super common point of failure, so I replaced it. No difference.

HOWEVER, a friend of mine stated that he had an exact issue and the culprit is actually the "valve" on the filter housing inside the fridge. I did some googling and found some posts echoing that, and they mention putting a washer on it to help depress it more.

BUT

I'm having a hard time figuring out where to put these washers? Just around the base of it (red circle?)

Here is is with the bypass installed (does nothing). I have the water shut off.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The whole blue thing is 1 piece. Basically, as you tighten the cap (or filter body if you used one), it forces it (blue part) in.

I don't have any washers the right size so I'm going to need to try and find something either SS or make something out of plastic that can do the job. I think I might try something 1/8" or so.

e: This video shows replacing the whole filter head. I don't need to do that (I think) but it gives a good view of what it looks like
https://youtu.be/356QVsLtWVE?t=162

Ee: but if I use a washer won't it block the flow through the filterhead?

eee: gently caress it, I just ordered a filter head.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jun 18, 2022

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I have quartz and have routinely put pretty warm pots and pans on them. I love them, way more than my old granite and never chipped or discolored or anything.

Hed posted:

Blame marketing. “Quartz” countertops are largely mineral dust, silica, and glue. It’s an engineered product. Some assemblies can be decently durable but it’s never going to be as solid as a rock.

Quartzite is the actual stone you’d want countertops made out of. Cut and polished like granite or marble. It’s good stuff.
Huh, or maybe it's this. How can I tell the difference?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Ordered a fire table from Costco the a few weeks ago. Finally received it, converted to natural gas and hooked it up.

God drat, I wish I did it years ago. It's so nice being on the patio after dark and when it starts to chill, turn it on and largely reproduce most benefits of a fire pit without the hassle and hazards especially on my covered patio.
Being able to use it double duty as a good sized table kicks rear end.



devicenull posted:

Definitely turn off the main shutoff, don't bother with any of the per-fixture ones. We turn off the main even when we're just going away for a weekend.

That really is a good habit to get into.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I really dig the asthetic of that kitchen.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

^^ It's a good idea. As long as it's done right and the cost is reasonable, I don't see a downside.

So I really like our kitchen, BUT, it drives me a little nuts that the builder didn't put a light over the sink. When doing work at the sink in the evening, it's just not as bright as I'd like it. That one potlight is about 3' away from where I would like it.

Obviously I'm not going to move the light, but I'm not against adding one. I assume there is a truss/beam (2 storey) that the junction box for the existing lights are attached to (pendants and pot are all in a line), so how hard would it be to put another one in 3' closer to the wall?

I'm knowledgeable enough to be dangerous (I've install switches, including timers and done a couple outlets in an unfinished basement) so the wiring itself doesn't really scare me... or should it?

Alternatively, any other ideas? Already have under cabinet lighting which just isn't enough for the purpose of what I'd like.

Pic of my cluttered kitchen to see what I'm talking about

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Harriet Carker posted:

$250 a piece for roof box vents - reasonable? They are recommending 4 for about 1000 square feet.
The vents themselves are pretty inexpensive, so it's the labor that costs. Might sound a titch high, but doesn't sound crazy..... but I've never had them installed after the fact so :shrug:


PainterofCrap posted:

I would drop down that recessed light & its box closest to the sink, & see/feel around up there to determine the run direction of the floor joists above. You should be able to reach up in there with a spade bit & an extension (if there is a joist blocking your way) & drill a hole through for a wire, if necessary.

If you're lucky, & that is an open chase, it would be a fairly straightforward matter of wiring to the existing can & running it to a another location over the sink.
Yeah, I'll take a look.

ACTUALLY I just remembered as I'm typing this that I have proper prints for the house too. I can probably pretty easily see.

e: Nope, prints don't really show it. I'll try to pull down the one potlight and take a looksee.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jul 21, 2022

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Depending how deep the alcove/fridge is, it's possible to have the supply and hammer suppressor on a stub out of the floor.

Here is mine - I did work on my fridge so I'm checking behind it daily for leaks before I button it up.

Personally, I'd hire a plumber but I'm very risk adverse when it comes to working with water.

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