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Late last year I went on the hunt for a fun project car that can be slightly competitive in autox and has back seats, funding to come from selling my motorcycle(still not sold). After a long search in feburary I found an add on Craigslist for a rust free(mostly) 2001 Integra GSR, Most of these are rusted back into the earth in the northeast so this got my attention. Long story short after talking to the teenage girl(RED FLAG RED FLAG) that owned it and exchanging some information, I drove an hour and a half away with a dollie on my jeep and paid half her asking price and towed it home. This car is dirty, neglected didnt run to great and has had some questionable decisions made in it's past. This is what it looked like shortly after I picked it up:     The more I looked The more I found. Non working Xeon healight bulbs  Rusty Air filters attached to CAIs turned into a short ram    Leaky trunk from the tailights, never seen one without this problem. Those zipties are floating..  Aftermarket Radio doesnt work I wonder why?  WHYYYY??  Carbon fiber crap on the gauge cluster  Why bother unscrewing the front bezel if you can just crack it off? Your covering it with that wicked cool carbon fiber thing, that will never go out of style/adhesive wear out.  Wasn't even securing the battery, just flopping around the intake manifold.  Broke my record for change found in car purchase by a long shot.  Complete with questionable service history and paystubs. Girl told me it had a type-r head on it, I laughed and said "yeah sure" never thinking about it more because I've never heard of anyone doing that since the performance gain is so minimal.   heh Wait...yep that's definitely a type-r intake manifold, and they only mount on the type-r head... WHY??  Future updates to come soon with what I have fixed already and where its at now.
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Apr 14, 2016 04:09
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Broken headlights fixed with jbweld epoxy!  Donor gauge cluster from and rs,ls model    New tailights, havent put them on yet.  Carpets shampooed like 3 times, still kind of dirty. Leather cleaned and conditioned.  The PO managed to trash the rubber that seals the hood towards the firewall somehow, probably involving that rear end lube. Had to grab this plastic piece entirely from a model at the pick n pull, got some weird looks at the check out.  cheap shortram because it was about as much as a filter and I couldn't for the life of me get a stock system for less than $100. New plugs and wires, evap canister was missing a cap and was flopping around, all fixed and fit underneath the master cylinder.   Turn it on... Still idles like crap so I decide to do a compression test.  1-0PSI 2-175PSI 3-55PSI 4-175PSI Ummmm... Okay so lets start with a valve lash adjustment, no big deal.   Compression test again.. 1-25PSI 2-185PSI 3-185PSI 4-180PSI And that was 2 days ago, plans are to remove the head and go from there. My assumption is damaged valves or a very very bad head-gasket, we will see. Thanks for reading/looking, I'm a total lurker on here but decided to share. koollook124 fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 04:30
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In my past I've had a 3rd gen rs that rusted away and a 2nd gen rs that went with my brother to Colorado and unfortunately got totaled in an accident RIP. Forgot to mention I poured a little oil in cylinder 1 and re ran the compression test with no different results so I'm hoping I have cancelled out the possibility of bad rings.
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Apr 14, 2016 13:29
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Most of the questionable receipts were from 2012 so it's probably anyone's guess. Once it's off the car I will offer up some pictures to try and find out. I'm expecting some carnage, hopefully I'm wrong.
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Apr 14, 2016 22:52
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Hoping to at least have the manifolds off tonight. In going to be busy photographing and documenting things so it goes back together properly so it may take me a bit.
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Apr 15, 2016 21:22
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All I got off last night was the dizzy, the Vtec solenoid and the Ac compressor bracket. Went to start up the bike to sell to someone today and it dumped fuel into the crankcasee and out the air box all over the driveway, sweet. Really don't feel like fixing it, was probably a stuck float needle or something, carbs blow.
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Apr 16, 2016 15:34
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I wish I did, I live in Central New York. I'm vacationing there in about a month and a half but I doubt I could convince everyone to ride in the car with a bumper. My crazy neighbor does body work so I'm a little less concerned about that as I think he will work for 30 racks of keystones(he's odd). Once I have time I will list all of the other plans for the car on here. The engine issue kind of threw a curveball and will need to be addressed first though. I don't work as quick as some people on here, heh.
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Apr 17, 2016 17:01
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Liverpool, near Syracuse. I will graciously accept parts! And pay in beer for company!
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Apr 17, 2016 21:01
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A few very small steps completed tonight. Progress has been slow Drained the coolant  Intake Manifold separated from the head, looks like I have enough clearance to leave it pushed back and not remove it entirely. 3 bolts are missing down there somewhere. Once the head is back on I'm going to clean up this wiring and vaccum hoses a little bit.  Not ported... Cheap bastards  Exhaust manifold bolts came off very easily where they meet the head:-), however the bolts holding the downpipe are proving to be difficult. I only took one attempt at one of the three with a half inch drive and a 6 point socket and it still started to round it off after pbblaster. I' thinking I'm going to remove it where it joins to the cat because the hardware is more easily disposed of. I don't feel like wrecking the manifold's studs on the lower end.  Some pictures of the dizzy, ac compressor bracket and the vtec solenoid removed the other day    Ive been trying to attach a lot of bolts to their homes using masking tape. So far I think it's been a pretty solid plan. 
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Apr 19, 2016 03:51
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The intake openings don't look ported to me so I think it's a b16 head. I'm sure once it's off it will be more conclusive though.
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Apr 19, 2016 13:11
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The 2nd gen cars definitely look better in the sedan body style than the 3rd gen in my opinion. I'm starting to get a few calls on the slighly(or majorly) broken bike tasked to fund some of the integra parts. I hope it sells soon. Anyone in the CNY area needing riding gear that's creeping on here let me know.
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Apr 20, 2016 13:51
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sharkytm posted:I know the area well, I spent 5 years in Ithaca, and was associated with a VW club in Syracuse. Swing by Heid's and get a Mixed Double for me. Had me some heids last Saturday, Hoffman hotdogs are the best(looking to start a hotdog argument)!
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Apr 21, 2016 01:46
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Got those exhaust bolts off and the manifold off tonight. Valve cover off(again), timing belt removed from the cam sprockets and cam sprockets removed. Miscellaneous coolant hoses, temp sensor and tdc sensor removed. Lost the wooden key(Haynes manual call that bit of metal connecting the sprocket to camshaft) on the exhaust sprocket down near the water pump area. I need to stop dropping bolts and things... Will hopefully have pics up tomorrow.
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Apr 21, 2016 03:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Woodruff key, perhaps? Yep that's it, its down near the water pump somewhere. I'm going to change the timing belt while I'm at it even though it's pretty recent so I'll get it then.
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Apr 21, 2016 13:51
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kastein posted:Get yourself one of those magnet-on-a-stick parts retrievers, when they aren't too busy sticking to your engine block and other random things nearby they are great for plucking lost parts from deep in the bowels of an engine compartment. Had one years ago and accidentally bent it like the tv antenna it was derived from. I should really buy a new though you're right, they are cheap and very useful in this situation.
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Apr 22, 2016 01:55
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Bajaha posted:They make fancy ones now that can snake in to tighter places, and have a little grabber at the end for stubborn/non-magnetic things Reminds me of the machines in the movie matrix. Where do you get that? Looks very useful.
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Apr 22, 2016 02:14
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The wheels will end up staying for sure, gotta clean them up a lot. The car was improperly lowered and the tires have been eating the splashguards, I found a replacement passenger side one but haven't found a drivers side one yet. I pretty sure I'm going to swap itr springs and shocks onto it, I've seen a few oem sets for around 300$.
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Apr 23, 2016 03:20
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doogle posted:ITR rear shocks are box in style instead of having a fork on the end so if you do that you'll need ITR rear lower control arms as well. I'd go with a set of eibach sportline springs, they are a slight drop that actually ride better than stock. If you have access to a press replacing the bushings with poly bushings are a cheap upgrade. Dang, good to know. Thought they used the same control arms, chances are pretty poor that I'd find a set of itr control arms for a decent price.
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Apr 23, 2016 04:05
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A few short nights of updates here: Removal of the cams:  Hoping some of you guys can tell me if this looks like excessive wear of not  Soooo... Organized   FAP FAP  ^Yeah that's right, one bag per bolt. I'm a wasteful bastard. Time to get B-Headed. I guess i should have drained the coolant from the block somewhere, i thought it would come out of the lower radiator drain but I guess i was wrong. This is probably alright sitting like this for a bit hopefully(right?).    Pictures look kind of sucky but to my untrained eye the cylinders look pretty tidy, walls dont appear to be scored on any cylinders or anything, turns over by hand very easily. And what we've all been waiting for. 4  3  2  And 1  Someone didn't close the door and let all the heat out, Boo.   Cant 100% tell whats going on here but it looks like a valve seat bit the dust and or a part of the valve is damaged, this was the one with 55psi after lash adjustment. Cylinders 2 and 4 had the best compression but I'm guessing ran rich to make up for the others hence the buildup? And cylinder 3 looks pretty normal to me(needed a lot of valve lash adjustment earlier). So the next plan is to find a good shop that can do the valve work on the head and I will need to get together the replacement bits to piece this all back together, timing belt is being replaced by the way of course. By the way, doesn't look ported, cheap asses.
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Apr 27, 2016 04:07
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Drained the coolant out of the block and was pouring it into a milk jug and found the woodruff key! Got myself one of those neat bendy light grabbing magnet tools from autozone. I'm working on removing the timing belt now, once that's all set and I send the head away to be worked on in going to tackle the other random areas like the messed up mirrors.
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Apr 29, 2016 14:26
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doogle posted:That is a B16 head. I would have the machine shop check the cams as well, that doesn't look great from the pictures. If they are bad and are B16 cams (here is a guide to tell you what you have: http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm) you can generally pick up a set on craigslist for $50-75. I would be more worried about the cam caps, if they are scarred the machine shop may need to weld and line bore them to fix it. The cam part I pictured is the intake can closest to the gear, that cap had one spot I can catch my finger nail on. The rest of the caps are spotless. Small note to integra owners, while 5th generation accord mirrors look identical, they are just different enough so that they will not fit on integras, very disappointing. The passenger side mirror is all fixed but I still need a donor mirror for the else overs side.
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May 1, 2016 18:37
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Head is off to the machine shop, I'll be sure to post gleaming pictures of it once it's done! Depending on how much material is taken off I will need to choose a head gasket thickness it looks like.
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May 5, 2016 02:30
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doogle posted:ITR rear shocks are box in style instead of having a fork on the end so if you do that you'll need ITR rear lower control arms as well. I'd go with a set of eibach sportline springs, they are a slight drop that actually ride better than stock. If you have access to a press replacing the bushings with poly bushings are a cheap upgrade. Doogle The gsr rear away bar doesn't appear that it attaches to the control arms the same way the itr one does either, unless I'm seeing things. If I'm mistaken and they do then this itr set seems like a decent deal. https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131583332258
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May 5, 2016 03:29
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Hello Mr Shiny!     .06 was taken off and 2 valves replaced (1 intake 1 exhaust), done at literally the only machine shop I could find around here but has a good reputation. Smells of cigarette smoke just as bad as the shop owner, camshafts and journals are in good shape so big win there too. Decided its time to take off the drivers side motor mount tonight.    Foolish me thought I could pull off the pulley with a rubber strap and a breaker bar, going to go at it with the impact later to get it off.  Took a level and a feeler gauge to the top of the block and .04 didn't fit under anything so I'm thinking we are pretty straight there, just a little bit of cleanup and I think that's good to go. The .06 taken off the head is more than I would have liked honestly, I'm hoping someone one here might have a recommendation for a thicker headgasket so I don't need adjustable cam gears or anything, or tell me if that's a bad idea? I'm going to start looking around for one and see what I can turn up. Little torn on the suspension options, I can an oem replacement for all 4 corners(springs and struts) for around 350, or I go b6s and eibach sportline springs recommended earlier but will set me back probably a good 600+. I really do like the way these cars handle stock actually.
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May 7, 2016 03:16
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kastein posted:Are you sure it was actually 0.06? I see people confuse hundredths and thousandths way, way more often than I ever thought possible, and 6 thou sounds pretty reasonable for a head surfacing job. Pretty sure you are right and this dude didn't take his middle school math. There is an indicator on the intake side which shows on this head if it has been milled past its normal service specification and it's not past it. Also from my research if .06 is milled off then it starts getting close to valve seats and I'm no where close in my opinion. I ordered my new timing belt, tensioner and top end gasket kit. Water pump was done like 3 years ago so I'm I've decided to leave it in place. Still haven't fired up my 90dba(it's awful) compressor to hit the crank pulley with my impact yet to get the old timing belt off so that's next. I'm also pretty sure I'm going to return to completely stock suspension :/
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May 10, 2016 00:25
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Big update because I've been busy on the car/ working on mountain bikes and other shenanigans. Got that bastard crank pulley off   Old belt and covers  Replaced both of these because they were poo poo old n busted  new hottness  Mating surfaces cleaned up nicely in my opinion, intake manifold needed some razor blade work at the right angle. Looks nice  Headgasket dropped on   Head dropped on   Cams in and head bolts tightened  Journals on, covers on and cam gears attached. I found that 2 bolts were incorrect and needed to replace them next to the distributor, stupid PO    New timing belt and tensioner. Actually lined up perfectly on the first try!  ugly valve cover on, may I should send away for a cosmic paint job(no)?  Ready for the exhaust manifold and intake manifold    Spark plugs dropped back in and dizzy attached and i was ready for the first turnover(oil and coolant added and whatnot of course)   AAAAAAND, it wouldn't start. I was convinced it was my battery, I had killed it many times and overcharged it when I first had it and it was in bad shape to begin with. New battery gets dropped in and same results though, turns out the IACV and the MAP sensor use the exact same plugs(fun fact) and were reversed. so we start up and it runs rough while I set up the timing with a light, I have a video somewhere but it's pretty boring so I'll spare you the experience. It would appear that due to the amount taken out of the head or the fact that this ay be the second time this head was milled requires me to get adjustable cam gears, which I have now ordered. Retarding(right word?) the timing starts to let it run slightly better but not very good, and to support that the compression ranges from 135 to 150 on all cylinders, consistent but lower. Once the adjustable cam gears come in I think I will be compensating about 3 degrees roughly to start and then checking compression. It will likely take some testing but that's the game plan, and this thing will probably always need 93 gas in it would be my guess.
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Jun 14, 2016 03:55
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some texas redneck posted:And uh, how sure are you that both cams are lined up right? That was my original thought but I've since checked it gazillion times and it's definitely dead on right. Regardless it will be checked again when the new gears go on though. I heard a few times of people running into this in cases where a lot has been removed from the head, this could be the second time it was milled too.
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Jun 14, 2016 13:45
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SierraEchoBravo posted:Man I was looking for one of these for my NASA/RA build. I sold my B5 and got a 9th gen Si which is less interesting than I'd like. I haven't posted/read AI in a year or two when life took over. Glad to see all the Honda love, I'll have to make a thread for my boring piles. I look forward to seeing your thread once you put it together. Once this is moving well under its own power I will take some decent outside pictures of it a few people have asked about. The body work is going to be a bit of a pain but if I leave it a little ugly maybe it will be less likely to be stolen?
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Jun 15, 2016 21:22
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kastein posted:You also might have smoked the MAP sensor plugging it into the IACV connector, depending on which pins do what on the Honda MAP/IACV motor. If it keeps running like crap after you dink around with everything else check that, or maybe buy a spare MAP off a junkyard car for 5 bucks and try it out. Definitely won't rule that out. I have a hard time finding these cars at junk yards up here so I hope I get lucky and don't need it. I'm also wondering if I'd pull a engine code from that not working or not, I suppose I'll see.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:24
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SierraEchoBravo posted:100% It may be as early as this weekend! I picked up stuff to help the engine breathe better, and a flashpro to get the thing dialed in. Right now it's got a cold air intake, stock otherwise. I've never owned a Japanese car till this one so any and all advice would be super cool. It's already easier to work on that my Audi, which I guess is a given. Sounds fun, I really only know anything about the b series honestly so : SierraEchoBravo posted:100% It may be as early as this weekend! I picked up stuff to help the engine breathe better, and a flashpro to get the thing dialed in. Right now it's got a cold air intake, stock otherwise. I've never owned a Japanese car till this one so any and all advice would be super cool. It's already easier to work on that my Audi, which I guess is a given. I mostly only know anything about the b series but I'll try to help out. I think at least one other goon on here has a 9th gen si though.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:28
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doogle posted:I'm not positive, but it seems like the ITR rear arm has a spot for the rear sway bar bracket in the exact same spot. I know that you cannot run an ITR rear bar on a GSR without a kit or you will tear your rear subframe. Didn't know about the service connector needing to be unplugged before timing adjustments. I'll be looking into that then too and let you know, thanks for all the info.
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Jun 16, 2016 13:48
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Pretzellogic posted:Zweigle's or nothing. Originally came from Delaware, I got lucky 😀
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Jun 17, 2016 03:15
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doogle posted:I just remembered that you have a different intake manifold too, a stock gsr intake has butterfly secondaries. If you don't get a tune it will always run like poo poo. I can socket your ecu for you if you want, you can order a base map off of eBay or phearable.net with the specs of your motor. Also double check you have the tps, map, and iacv plugged into the correct places as they all use the same connector. Valve lash adjustment all good to go, did it before the head was off and I just did it again now that it's back on. It's anyone guess what was done on the ecu before I got it so I will get into that once the gears are on, compression is correct and the timing is right. I'll be sure to look your way then doodle.
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Jun 17, 2016 03:18
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I finally rolled it out of the garage to snap some pictures of it in the sunlight. In terms of body damage the priority of course is the rear bumper and the drivers side mirror that I still need to source a donor for. The metal underneath the bumper seems unscathed so the plan will be to source a new one and have it repainted if needed, kinda looks worse than it really is.    The Adjustable gears are on but it looks like there will be no way around getting one of those special pieces to hold them in place to torque down the bolts on the gears. The factory ones have enough space to shove a screw driver into them to stop them from moving but these do not. I've also come to realize that since I just did a valve adjustment before adding these and making adjustments it's possible my adjustments were not at true TDC and I will need to do it again, boo. 
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Jun 22, 2016 03:44
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So I'm running 6 degrees advance and my compression numbers range from 195 to 210 between the 4 cylinders. Did another valve lash adjustment to spec again and I started it up and managed to get the timing into the red where it should be. I and still running rough and throwing code p0117 for low circuit on the ect coolant temperature sensor. This can either be the coolant sensors having an issue or possibly low on coolant and not filler properly(kinda rushed it). When I hit the clear code on my scanner it starts to run nice and then bogs down again when it pops the code again so I think this may be my remaining issue.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:58
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If I unplug the sensor on the thermostat I get no change, I believe this one shows on the dash and I believe it's working properly; Hondas rarely go over 1/3 on the gauge if I recall correctly. The little one plugged into the head that operates on resistance from what I read I believe is the bad one. It had a seemingly frayed wire which I've soldered and replaced and Im seeing voltage from the end of the connector to ground but Its kinda goofy, I get anywhere from 3-8 volts depending on if it's being touched of not. It's worth noting that I did not have those code before The head was worked on so I must have either messed up the wire or messed up the sensor cleaning it before reinstalling it. think in order to properly test the sensor I need to remove it and test ohms on it maybe, not sure.
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Jun 29, 2016 12:58
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I'm going to start with the basics tonight and make sure the coolant passages are fully filled and all burped. If it's not In Contact with coolant it will pull this error too. Then I move back on to the other troubleshooting.
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Jun 29, 2016 13:36
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doogle posted:The 3 wire plug on the head is what the ECU reads ECT from. The 1 wire is for your cluster only and the ECU does not read from it. The one on the thermostat is only for the fan. Yep you're absolutely right, I used my reader to determine the sensor appears to be at fault here. I didn't realize this engine had so many temperature sensors, I thought this one was for the vtec solenoid actually. They are cheap enough to snag one up today easily and swap, probably not even worth it for you to ship doogle but I appreciate the offer. After this I'm pretty certain the engine is 100% and I'm onto the rest.
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Jul 2, 2016 17:02
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Update: More of my sensors were swapped, :-/. One of the Vtec sensors and the ect share the same sensor connector. Once correcting that I was able to validate that I am getting accurate temperature readings so the sensor is ok. I saw a slight improvement in how the engine was running after doing this but still would not idle well. Pulled the iacv and cleaned it thoroughly and reinstalled. Checked voltages to the map sensor which appeared to be correct but I'm not ruling this out as possibly being bad. I did clean the map sensor when the head went back on so shouldn't need to do that. After about 3 attempts tonight I bled all the air out of the coolant system. This made a huge difference, did the ignition timing again and I'm here now. Idling actually very well. https://youtu.be/u2sS4owbcYs ^hopefully that works I still have an issue where if I rev it up and let it drop back to idle it drops too fast and ends up stalling. No codes at all since correcting the ect plug so I think I'm down to replacing either the map or iacv or possibly tracing a vacuum leak. I may replace the plugs again because I think I fouled them a bit during all the testing. Also fixed and issue with the door jam stopper thingy. It was missing it entirely and I swapped one from the junkyard I got a while ago. Yay
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Jul 8, 2016 02:55
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Update: That screw is a bitch to turn(and now very much stripped). At operating temperature I unplugged the iacv and it died immediately. Tried to unscrew and got about a half turn and would not move more, maybe backed out as far as it goes? Would not idle, tried screwing it in but only got about 2 rotations on it, same with no start. I'm thinking I'm possibly tracing a vacuum leak, which I'm finding difficult to find corresponding diagrams because the vacuum lines there are for the gsr IM which I don't have. I was pretty sure I had them setup properly well before pulling the head but now I'm questioning it. I will try to snap a few pictures or diagram where I have the lines going. Runs great cold!
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Jul 11, 2016 01:55
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