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Assuming it is a fullfloat axle like he said (there are some weird old loving axles that are semifloat but have the hub flange bolted onto the shaft, which is retarded) you simply: - unbolt axleshafts (no need to remove wheels or lift truck) - may have to remove conical split shims around the axleshaft retention studs if they're nut+studded in instead of bolts, toyota loves doing this on auto 4x4 front hubs and some fullfloaters are this way too - remove axleshafts - remove third member (center section held in with a million nuts on studs) I was gonna say just drain the oil like a normal person and fill it like a normal person, but preparing a truck that could claim social security for a 2000 mile trip? Yeah, wise to pull the third member and double check it's not a ball of rust anywhere above where the oil reached it while it sat for a few decades. When you put it back together just RTV or gasket it (... RTV, gently caress finding a gasket for that thing) and snug the third member nuts down in a giant star pattern sorta, put the shafts back in, and fill it with GL5. I'd assume "fill it till it comes out the fill hole at you" but I don't know that axle very well so double check with the old chevy truck dudes. e: yes that is a fullfloat axle for sure, went back in the thread. Just pop the 5 bolts holding the axleshaft in and it should slide right out. There may be a paper gasket or RTV sticking it to the hub but that's about it. So feel free to give it a good whack with the mallet if it won't pop out, but don't go insane on it assuming there's a hogring on the splined end to retain it, it should slide right out once you break the rust/rtv/gasket bond. Similarly, getting the third member to come loose from the banjo axle housing once you have removed the bazillionty nuts retaining it can be a bitch, if necessary feel free to use chisels or screwdrivers between the third and the banjo housing to persuade it but try not to crack the cast iron third member flange in the process (that sucks...) and avoid damaging the stud threads because I don't know if they are replaceable. Also, that third member is a two speed right? It probably weighs a loving ton, like 100-150lbs, expect that and don't break half your ribs with it when it comes loose. Might want to check the internals of the two speed mechanism as well (if it doesn't involve digging too deep, in which case just make sure it spins nice and is in high gear.) kastein fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 01:01
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If it looks and acts like this it is a badger and should be left the gently caress alone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XA8pxzawUGM Badgers are the 300lb hells angels of the animal kingdom. It will gently caress you up and eat your rear end in a top hat for breakfast.
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Nov 11, 2016 15:03
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Djdanno, I didn't want a jeep to burn to the ground in my front yard either, so I did it in the back yard. (That sucked.) If it has 4.10s, a direct 4th, and the 7.50-20 tires (35") it should do around 70mph at 2700-2800rpm. I would keep it well below that though... depending on the condition of the wheel bearings.
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Nov 12, 2016 22:18
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no bones about it posted:I would keep it well below that, wheel bearings or no, those tires are dry-rotted to poo poo from 40 years sitting in a field and the first time you try to travel at a speed above about 45-50 you're likely to start losing bits off your tires. gently caress, I wouldn't even run them above bicycle speed. Tires even 10 or 15 years old are so dried up they have no traction and even less wet traction. I ran the ones that came with my Justy to get home, I could do a rolling burnout through middle of second gear with loving 73hp. And both front tires split so many belts they almost blew out within 2200 miles or so. Fortunately they are getting replaced before the trip, but he has had difficulty finding 7.50-20 rubber new and all the 20" 35s are like a foot wide, which is too wide for those wheels and that suspension. I could find 7.50-16s on tirerack when I looked but nothing in 20".
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Nov 12, 2016 23:50
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I just found brand new 7.00-20s (not 7.50, so you will lose some top speed probably) at a tire shop SOMEWHERE in nebraska! http://www.nebraskatire.com/truck/car (top left corner of page) E: I think he was looking for them local not internet order. Oh well, probably have to. Also a lot of the google results are 7.50-15s or -16s not -20s.
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Nov 13, 2016 00:25
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If the load rating allows, you could always run only 4 tires on the way home and deal with the other two later, unless those are the tires you intend to keep on it.
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Nov 13, 2016 00:39
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Already considered that... not a chance of a 16 or 16.5 wheel fitting in my estimation, 19.5 (maybe), 20, or 22.5. The lug pattern I don't remember, but it has been discussed in this thread.
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Nov 13, 2016 01:14
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Given the intake manifold condition it hit at least ~1200degF. Probably significantly higher. What's the plan on getting the truck's bellhousing mounting pads to line up? Cut some hockey pucks into wedge mounts and figure it out 2000 miles from now? Ratchet strap it down and roll out? Custom trans crossmember?
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Nov 13, 2016 15:52
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That kinda has to happen, seriously. Maybe ask if you can work for Roadkill and be like "I got a free jeep in washington and fixed it enough to drive to nebraska, then it burned to the ground and I threw everything into making my friend's 1951 chevy pickup motor swap and drive to florida work out well, I will move heaven and earth to make sure no episode of roadkill ever blueballs a fan again, cya later FLORIDA HERE WE COME" and do a flaming 4 wheel burnout out of his driveway
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Nov 14, 2016 00:05
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Go south, young man, go south (As soon as the truck runs)
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Nov 19, 2016 16:05
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48 or 49 packard or buick? I want to say buick.
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Nov 20, 2016 03:28
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Oh hell. So it does. 
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Nov 20, 2016 03:34
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Those motherfuckers exist only to average out the niceness of all the canadian humans. What I am saying is gently caress canadian geese, god drat.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:18
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I am sorely tempted to make extremely bad financial decisions ITT and fly to Nebraska for that Gladiator
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Nov 23, 2016 19:47
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It sounds like it will make it either way. Not like L05s are delicate flowers, it can totally handle sub-4k rpm for a few days to make it home. And probably another 200k miles after that, too. What's current status on the headers vs steering box issue? That worries me.
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Nov 29, 2016 14:12
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I'd spend the sick time reading wiring diagrams for the L05 EFI and charging/starting systems. It's not going to be too too complex, but it's something you can easily do while lying down.
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Nov 30, 2016 18:22
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Lemme go read about all the amazing gearhead journeys and engine swaps meatpimp has been doing... oh 14, the wiring diagrams I have from my usual source are dogshit. I'd recommend either finding an actual FSM (on ebay, should be pretty cheap) for the donor or maybe even a haynes/chilton at the parts store. Unless you can get someone to save the diagrams off mitchell, those are usually pretty drat good with color codes etc iirc.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:16
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First of all, need wire color codes for all of those if they're not visible in the pictures.14 BAR RIFF posted:I'm in totally over my head on this wiring. I could swear that on a 93 Roadmaster with the same engine, this is mounted to the right front inner fender near the battery. Those are fusible links coming off of it. Not sure what they all do or go to or went to, but it's part of the 12V power distribution system. 14 BAR RIFF posted:Near pass through. 14 BAR RIFF posted:Same 14 BAR RIFF posted:Also near pass throughh 14 BAR RIFF posted:Drivers side block can't locate a matching connector 14 BAR RIFF posted:Near alternator guess: AC compressor clutch and high pressure shutoff sensor maybe, but double check the wire color codes against a wiring diagram. 14 BAR RIFF posted:Goes into harness near distributor 14 BAR RIFF posted:gently caress if I know
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Dec 1, 2016 23:19
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Wiring is loving easy if you are methodical and (maybe) label poo poo as you are taking it apart, though that is optional. If you go in with a boltcutter and an angle grinder, it usually does not go well trying to figure out how to put Humpty Dumpty back together.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:21
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Alt usually grounds through the engine block, actually. Sometimes they strategically locate a block-to-battery or block-to-frame ground cable near the alternator to reduce resistance in the charging loop, but not always, for example: subaru EJ family14 BAR RIFF posted:Yeah it sort of did but I wanted to eliminate the miles of van harness that would have filled the entire engine bay. I'm far more confident looming it fresh now than I was spitballing. 14 BAR RIFF posted:Single red/black splicing into another sensor on the bracket by the throttle body that also has red/black 14 BAR RIFF posted:Single white from coil  14 BAR RIFF posted:Single green splicing in with wiring to ....temp sensor? By thermostat 14 BAR RIFF posted:This looks like everyone back here Other than the stuff you have there, you still need fuel pump relay and wiring plus O2 sensor and a few other rather important things, IAT comes to mind, as does IACV and likely a knock sensor somewhere in the valley or on the back of the block. I don't think TBI has a crank position sensor now that I think about it and I'm pretty sure the cam position sensor is built into the distributor.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:46
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:Pipe thread into the water jacket RH side of the block, just ahead of the starter and dipstick and just above the oil pan flange is indeed a knock sensor on these and it sure af looks like every GM knock sensor I've ever seen. hosed up place for it but that's what you get slapping EFI on a motor from the 50s as cheaply as possible.  I stand corrected then. RIP knock sensor.I've never seen a pipe-threaded knock sensor (just the donut shaped ones you bolt to the engine), nor one into a water jacket. loving GM
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Dec 2, 2016 00:41
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That purple wire being the starter solenoid drive wire makes a lot more sense than it being for the AC compressor. I was wrong again 
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Dec 2, 2016 01:29
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ExplodingSims posted:Goonmeet in Valentine? I was already checking ticket prices to Denver but then the seller of the interesting vehicle I wanted dropped off the face of the earth and I didn't become funemployed like I expected to, so I guess I'm not driving some old iron through Valentine on my way home on the fury road drat real life getting in the way of a good time Anything I can help with from the 93 Buick FSM this weekend?
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Dec 3, 2016 06:32
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That all also depends entirely on the state of registration. For example, in MA, I would have to: - get commercial insurance - register commercial and pay several hundred due to GVWR - use commercial plates - pass the safety inspection for the year of manufacture All because it has >4 tires OR >2 axles. OR I could register it antique and escape all that. But have to abide by antique vehicle rules. Farm use in this state, I'd have to have a legally declared farm, declare the VINs and types of equipment the farm plates would go on and the locations they would be used at, be issued farm plates, and never drive more than 25 miles from the listed locations to be truly legit. Some states, you can just slap an orange triangle on a harvester and drive it down the interstate.
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Dec 3, 2016 16:44
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I don't know about SBC TBI setups needing it or not, but I can tell you that renix 4.0Ls have a knock sensor that is basically useless as long as you maintain the ignition system and put gas that isn't poo poo in it. So like, regular old 87 octane that is fresh, basically. What I'm saying is you should look into whether the ECU even really cares before wasting time trying to hook it up without the header frying it. As for the starter, I assume that is gonna need like a compact aftermarket one or something...
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Dec 6, 2016 12:53
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djdanno13 posted:The thought we're having right now is to take some 1.5 inch x 6 inch heavy c channel and then using bolts to go clear through to the frame on one side. It's only two but hopefully enough to not side shear? It looks to me like there are two bolts into the vertical face of the frame and at least one, maybe two on the top. C channel frame. Having run a steering box with only two bolts once, don't do it. I know this is not the answer you want, but, welp. Also, my gut is telling me it's gonna need more than 1.5" spacing to clear that header, and you'll have to either trim the hole in the firewall to move the whole shebang over (since it's a rigid steering column+box assembly, rather than having ujoints in the intermediate shaft...) or make the spacer somewhat trapezoidal so that it points the steering column through the same hole it came out of, but that will result in a fucky steering wheel placement. What a pain in the rear end.
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Dec 9, 2016 18:04
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That wiring is making me twitch but if it makes it to Florida it's good. I strongly recommend (from experience) putting something over the sharp edges of the firewall to prevent it from chafing through the cables and causing an electrical fire though. Putting the headers on upside down also did not clear the steering rack IIRC. Might as well try it again though? I dunno. I would consider heating that steering link and bending it, maybe, but I don't know how replaceable it is. The angle on the steering box + column is making me worried, it really looks like you're gonna need a trapezoidal spacer or to cut a hole in the firewall, neither of which is acceptable IMO (but this is Sims truck and not mine, so he should give the answer on that.) e: cast iron log manifolds I assume collide with something, but if one upside down on the driver side fits, maybe rock it... and feed it straight into a turbo kastein fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 23:15
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DO NOT flip the pitman, nor put the drag link on the other side of it... that way lies disaster. Please.  I'd either heat, bend, and gusset the drag link, or turn the drag link into a Z-link, like has been suggested, which is a super common trick among mud truck builders who lift too high without thinking about their steering. Unless that part is completely irreplaceably rare, that is.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:09
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djdanno13 posted:Serious question can you please elaborate more on why we should not turn the drag link around to bolt on the other side? Or is it just because of the tapered end? Tapered end. If you have a machinist around who can fill the old taper with weld on the pitman, mill the surface flat again, then drill and ream a new one on the other side that has the same taper angle as the old one (there are a few standards and I have no idea what GM used in 1951) it is a decent idea, but anything else runs the risk of wallowing the hole out and snapping the stud and nut off, or just snapping the stud and nut off. Either is obviously bad news, and all this requires modifying an ancient part that is not easily replaced most likely. Jbweld will fail in a few miles, if it even lasts long enough to torque the nut down. It is a lovely problem to have and I'm not even sure how I would move the box over, nevermind solving the linkage issue, if bending or z-linking it is not acceptable. Neither of those is ideal but I have seen worse.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:20
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glyph posted:So, I've dug into this a little. This advise is better than what I said.
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Dec 10, 2016 14:14
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The o2 sensor really works better when it reads only exhaust. glad this means no steering fuckery at all is needed. SSS saves the day... and Raluek, I think, not sure if he was talking about the aftermarket headers or the factory parts.
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Dec 10, 2016 23:42
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Ok but there is just one important thing you need to hear before I stopkastein posted:e: cast iron log manifolds I assume collide with something, but if one upside down on the driver side fits, maybe rock it... and feed it straight into a turbo Otherwise, what does it still need? Cooling, brakes, lights, tires, DRIVE?
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Dec 11, 2016 01:35
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Please tell me you left the third steering box bolt out to gently caress with us I will turn a blind eye to all manner of horrible poo poo, but suspension, brakes, and steering are always functional even on the shittiest of my hoopties...
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Dec 12, 2016 01:53
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If you weren't drat near done with the thing I'd say you should get a tripod for that phone so you can film quality tire humping. Those look like a bastard and I'm glad I haven't hosed with mine yet. Is the bolt circle actually 7.25 or is it 8.5 or 8.75 or 9? All the hicks in hotrod forum threads I could find couldn't figure out how to loving operate a tape measure on an even-lug-count wheel and all those numbers were mentioned.
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Dec 23, 2016 01:16
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I don't believe it's a recirculating ball box, probably just a worm gear running a sector shaft that turns the pitman arm. But I could be wrong. We built one of those super well lubricated idlers for SiF's dad's CJ5 4.0L swap because there was no good belt routing that didn't involve using the power steering pulley. Popped it open, replaced seal and front bearing (not necessary if it's in good shape, but they were loving wasted on the donor), removed all vanes, replaced a few O rings, reassembled. Easy to do on a TC pump, never done it on a P pump, if they are similar I can give a little guidance that will help you avoid mangling the back cover retention ring and/or fracturing the back cover by being a gorilla with a press (learned both of these things the wrong way!) so just ask if you need to. As for looping the lines, I'm not 100% sure how well that will work out since you're talking about a pump that puts out a ton of pressure and/or flow. The non pressure rated return line will blow the gently caress up if you do this using it, and it may aerate the fluid and gently caress everything up regardless, I dunno. The output fitting on the pump contains a pressure regulator / bypass valve that shunts fluid right back to the reservoir if it's not needed, so it may be possible to either gut that completely or jbweld things in such a way that it recirculates everything right there, or something like that. http://tc.wagoneer.org/2012/08/saginaw-power-steering-pump-rebuild.html
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Dec 23, 2016 02:13
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The second clip in this video has better quality I think... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzVxd08LsBU
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Dec 26, 2016 03:00
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That would be throwing away the perfect natural mechanics crawler that the world has just given you.
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Dec 26, 2016 23:55
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If it really comes down to it, I bet you can rig a throttle cable using electrical wire, some quality boyscout knots, and using random things as pivots/pulleys to get it running. Which direction is the throttle cable pull in on the throttle body? I haven't looked at the L05 I walk by every day in far too long, because it just keeps running and running and running.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:03
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djdanno13 posted:Dave says gently caress it. We're proceeding. I would recommend some sort of a rear brake circuit shutoff, so at least when it fails you can panic, flip the shutoff, and brake with the front wheels? (Or is there any chance a dual circuit master out of the van bolts to the truck, given GM's laziness?) Assuming you can find something like that in town quickly that is. If not, carry on and figure it out later. also, check your facebook messages...
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Dec 29, 2016 21:54
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:00 |
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Yeah, but how did the bores and seals of the cylinders look? That's what's going to screw things over if they fail. A few decades of moisture accumulation and corrosion in the bore of a cast iron brake cylinder is bad news. Hopefully I'm wrong and they're fine.
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Dec 29, 2016 23:03
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