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This thing should be good for at least $10 worth of entertainment.
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May 22, 2016 00:42
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So when the time comes to rip the guts out of the van, you will have developed such strong emotional ties to it that you decide to keep it running. I get it.
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Sep 17, 2016 22:05
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ExplodingSims posted:I don't even wanna know what it looks like under the flooring there. You must first find your own truth, and then show us pics of the spiders.
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Sep 18, 2016 05:50
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ExplodingSims posted:It rools, and the trasmisdiom is free
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Oct 26, 2016 15:16
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Shoulda drove the Jeep back to FL 14 drives Jeep to NE. ES drives Jeep to FL. 14 finishes up truck. 14 drives truck to FL. Cliffhanger for next season: Will 14 drive the Jeep back to WA?
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Nov 4, 2016 16:21
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Pardon my ignorance, but wtf is/was it?
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Nov 13, 2016 22:20
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djdanno13 posted:Was? Cast Aluminum. Sure, I get that much, I was more wondering what part/parts that used to be pre-fire.
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Nov 13, 2016 23:47
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clam ache posted:I feel like fixing one leads to the other being needed. Route exhaust through the cab and out the back.
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Dec 12, 2016 21:27
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ExplodingSims posted:Huh. Like I said, Never done exhaust stuff much before. I fully agree with Tomarse, those flex pipes is almost certainly what I would use to easily rig up some temporary exhaust, I would probably trust that more than what I'd be able to weld literally in the field. It's the go-to repair method when we're 24h lemons-ish racing and the flex pipe decides to leave early or a bit of pipe needs replacing. Just avoid those thin U-bolt clamps, the flex pipe is a spiral that locks into itself and the force of those clamps can pop it apart so it starts to unravel. Those wider ones with a slotted tube or a band work. It's often difficult to get to seal perfectly if you were to care about that, unless you apply a liberal amount of exhaust-grade monkey feces (gun gum or whatever) to fill out the grooves in it for a couple of turns. Not sure if it's the best idea right up at the manifold though. Clamps tend to move around or slip off easily there (due to heat expansion or whatever), but I could see that hackishly solved by drilling a hole through the clamp + flex pipe + whatever it slips over and stick a bolt or maybe just some baling wire through it. Also that flex tube doesn't have a super-tight minimum bending radius, so if you need to make really tight bends snaking around the engine bay it might not do. Just go to some auto parts store and get a feel for it though.
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Jan 3, 2017 08:13
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ExplodingSims posted:And will these kinds of clamps work? Or do I need to go thicker? I think I would add a couple lengths of straight pipe of matching size in case you need to join two flexy bits together (they would need a bit of pipe in between them), or want a more sturdy straight section somewhere. As for hangers, just go with steel straps or baling wire around the frame rails. If you need to go somewhere in between the rails, use that to make an "exhaust crossmember" where you need it. For the side exhaust, just hang it off the bed. Compensate for any flimsy / long hangers by just having more of them in slightly different directions. Hose clamps, while generally not strong enough to join up bits of pipe, are very useful making hangers. The fewer fucks that are given, the more glorious it will look. Never used something quite like those clamps on flex pipe, but my guess is they are wide enough to do the trick. I've used plenty of these, they work fine. Proper bolts mean you can screw them really drat tight: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Avgassystem/Avgassystem-ovrigt/Skarvror-2000018900/ This is the kind that does not work well: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Avgassystem/Avgassystem-ovrigt/Rorklammer-2-st-2000017824/ I think anything that is wider than a couple turns of the flex pipe won't tear it apart, but I could see the sharp edges possibly being an issue if it bends and moves around right at the joint. Those big clamps I've used are flared out at the ends which may or may not make a difference. If in doubt, you can take a couple inches of leftover exhaust pipe, cut a slot along the length of it, apply violence at the ends to flare it out (your choice of exact method), slip it over the flex pipe and use whatever clamps you have on the outside it.
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Jan 3, 2017 22:58
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If two separate exhausts and mufflers make things simpler, you could have both exit the same side.
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Jan 3, 2017 23:58
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ExplodingSims posted:How much larger did you go with the flex stuff? On Summit I've been going with 2.5" for all the hard stuff and the flex stuff comes in the same diameter. IIRC, the size stated for the flex stuff was "whatever size exhaust pipe it will fit over" (i.e. flex pipe inside diameter), but that was when I bought it sized in millimeters in a specific store chain on a different continent. As you say, best ask them. Red_October_7000 posted:I'm thinking with flex tubing, you should be able to apply some rotational force to the end to make it uncoil a tiny bit and thus expand a tiny bit. Maybe get some from a local shop and play around a bit before ordering? Not really, it's pretty stiff in that regard. Maybe it can open up a tiny amount (would guess 1-2mm) but not nearly enough to "change sizes".
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Jan 8, 2017 22:04
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 15:49 |
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Datacenters still typically have these rooms with huge banks of lead-acid batteries (large single-cell ones in long series for a few hundred volts), but for whatever reason it's nowadays deemed safe enough that they even let nosy customers like me go in and look. Nothing seemed extra explosion-proof and no spacesuits involved.
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Mar 6, 2018 10:08
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