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I've pretty much decided on going with a quiet PC case. I woke up late yesterday morning the only thing I could hear was my PC. The be quiet! case, either 600 or 800, seems to be the best atm, but I'm looking around at other silent options. Anyone have opinions on the NZXT quiet cases? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_YioNlc298 I really like the looks internally, but if it isn't as good at silencing the system, I'd probably just go with the be quiet! case. Any other suggestions are great too.
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May 5, 2016 19:28
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The best ones overall are the Fractal Design Define R5 and NZXT H440, the be quiet! ones are pretty good but have some questionable design choices so I would rank them lower overall. I will note that there is only so much you can do about loud components in the system, for instance even the best sound dampening case won't do much for something like a reference blower R9 290 at full blast. I've seen all these at this point, it's a very hard decision. I think I prefer the H440 to the R5, but it's a very hard choice between be quiet and H440. Certain things about the be quiet cases are just lovely, like the hard drive mounts. And although I haven't seen any hard data, it really looks like they do a better job of keeping things quient than the NZXT, although they're probably both quiet enough that it doesn't matter. I'm definitely getting a quiet case now, though. My CPU fan has gone on the fritz and is EXTREMELY obnoxious. I want to die. Thanks for your help. Edit: I'm trying to find a replacement fan for my existing PC, and it's proving harder than I thought. I've got a Q9550, which is an LGA 775 socket. There's this thing, which has some great reviews, and is on sale. But some people said it was so large they weren't able to use all their ram slots, and I'm currently using all my ram slots. I also can't figure out how it attaches to the socket, so I'm worried that I'd have to remove the motherboard to get it attached, and I'd really prefer to avoid that if possible. There's this Thermaltake, which appears to be solid, and has an open box model available, but there aren't many reviews and one of the mentions that backplate thing again. There are cheaper options that look more like my current stock heatsink/fan, which makes me think they'd be easier to install, but it doesn't look like any of them have good reviews. I'm hoping that maybe I'm just wrong about this backplate thing. How can I tell if it's needed on my motherboard? Zero The Hero fucked around with this message at 02:50 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 02:31
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I've more or less decided to go with a "be quiet" case, and I figured I should go ahead and get a cooler and power supply from the same brand because that's what they'd be testing with. I've listed what I've got below, if anyone has any suggestions, please list them, I'm not particularly attached to anything yet. Money isn't a major issue. My real question though is about motherboard. Where do I even start? I'm pretty sure I want a Z170 chipset since I've got a 6700k, right? Other than that, I remember ASUS being better than most other brands about 8 years ago. No idea if that's still true. I'd like a suggestion for RAM as well. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get two 16gb sticks of DDR4, leaving the option to buy two more in the future if I ever decide 32gb isn't enough ram. I've never paid much attention to anything ram-related outside of size, so any suggestions there would be great too. I plan on re-using my video card (7870) and hard drives from my previous PC temporarily. I'll upgrade those at some point over the next year and repurpose my old PC into something or other. So for now, I'm not too worried about those choices. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($49.45 @ Amazon) Case: be quiet! SILENT BASE 600 (Silver) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power L8 700W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply Total: $449.43 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 16:31 EDT-0400
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Jun 10, 2016 21:50
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Looking for a few stray recommendations here. First off, an external USB drive. It needs to read Blu-rays. I don't particularly care if can burn dvds or anything. I'm not sure which brands to trust or how much I need to spend. Second, a UPS. Again, I don't know anything about brands or pricing. I would ideally like a UPS that could support my computer, a single monitor, and my router / modem for at least an hour. I realize that will probably be a couple hundred dollars or more. I'm fine with that, assuming it should last several years under constant usage. I don't necessarily need specifics here, if someone could just tell me what to look out for, that's fine. I also have a question about CPUs. I had decided on the 6700k, but this was kinda disturbing to me: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-5820K The 6 core is better than I thought, and the 4790k seems to beat it. But that doesn't make any sense to me - isn't the 4970k just an older quad core?
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Jun 23, 2016 15:42
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:1) Not really sure on a blu-ray drive, looking on Amazon I found this one, it's expensive but LG is a decent brand. Thanks, that UPS looks solid. I'll probably get it. I'll still look around for another external blu ray player, just because I want one that isn't refurbished. For some reason newegg doesn't have any recognizable brands available. I can't really think of a use for 6 cores now, or any time in the next few years. There are plenty of programs that will utilize six cores, but very few that will max multiple cores out. Unless I were doing a lot of virtualization.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:13
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My sister had her PC stolen and is in graduate school, so she's trying to replace it cheaply. The problem is she actually plays some fairly demanding games (Skyrim is the only one I can think of at the moment), and likes having a good PC in general. I talked her into putting money into a good CPU now and borrowing a video card until she can buy a decent one herself in a few months. Here's what she's come up with so far: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.99 @ Micro Center) Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ OutletPC) Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($15.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $645.31 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-24 11:41 EDT-0400 I talked her into the i5. She could save a good bit by going with an AMD cpu and motherboard, but I don't know enough about their CPUs anymore, so I thought Intel would be safer. The i5-6600k is so cheap that I couldn't justify going with any of the cheaper Intel CPUs. Besides, a friend of mine recently bought a top of the line video card to pair with his 5 year old i5, struggled to break 30fps in Dark Souls 3, then overclocked his CPU and broke 60fps, so I'm currently convinced getting the k version is the right way to go in the long run. She's sold on the case. It's not cheap, and doesn't belong in a budget build, but she's in love with it, so it's not negotiable. I expect she'll be upgrading RAM eventually, but there's no reason to do it now. 8GB should be fine for now, and as long as her motherboard has four ram slots, What I could really use advice on is the cooler - the k version of course has no stock cooling. My sister has no experience installing CPU coolers so I'd like to find one that's easy to install. I could be convinced to just drop the k and go with stock cooling, but then there's the anecdote I posted above, so I really think it's worth the extra money. She won't be overclocking any time soon so it doesn't need to be too fancy. I'm currently leaning toward this cheap one, but I don't know if it's compatible with 1151 sockets, or how easy it is to install. I don't like that power supply either. I'll be recommending her this one because it's the same model I have and it's cheaper, but I'm open to suggestions. I'll be looking for a replacement motherboard too, but I'm still struggling with motherboards in my own build and I honestly don't know where to start. I haven't found anything with universally great reviews.
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Jun 24, 2016 17:05
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here is an adjusted build: Thanks a lot man. I sent this to her. I saw your list of budget builds further up on this page, would you at any point recommend an AMD for a budget build? Her other option is getting a PC cheap enough she can replace it in a year or two when she has more cash. It's not what I would do, I doubt it would ever be cost effective, but I thought I'd ask.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:47
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How important is RAM speed? Looking at these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232206 DDR4 3200, low timing, low latency, and quite a bit more expensive than RAM with slightly higher timings. It's not out of my price range, but I don't really know what benefit it gives me compared to other options. P.S. I'm going 2x16gb because I want to upgrade to 64gb in the future when RAM is cheaper.
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Jun 27, 2016 02:52
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I decided to go with the RAM I linked on this build for now. Here's what I've got: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($217.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($204.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US) I'm going to re-use my old video card and hard drives. Maybe PSU too. The goal is to have a quiet build. I've heard the H440 is pretty quiet, and I got a Noctua cooler for the same reason. I picked that PSU because it was cheap - I have no idea how quiet it is. Advice is welcome. I question the motherboard, too. I can't find a single one that has stellar reviews, so I decided to just throw money at it. I know that I want a Z170, and I like that it has a physical power button on the board. I thought my case button was busted recently, and I was pissed. (I was wrong) I want a nice motherboard, and I'm willing to pay for it, I just can't make a decision. I should probably get an external hard drive while I'm at it. I had originally planned on purchasing a NAS, but it's a lot of money and more effort than I want to put out at the moment. I'll probably build one out of the parts left over from my current build after my new PC is running, but in teh mean time, I really need some form of backup. It would have to be at least 4TB, if not more. I'd love to have some sort of cloud backup, but I don't have any idea where to begin with that, and I don't think I can afford 4TB of cloud storage. I've seen some decently priced ones at costco, so if no one knows of any good deals online, I may just pick one up there.
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Jun 27, 2016 05:56
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UF6163 What do you guys think about this motherboard? It's a bit over the top, but I like the physical power/reset buttons on the board, the shielding over the i/o ports, the USB 3.1/C ports, and the SATA Express ports. Only downsides I can see is no e-sata port (are those even used anymore?), and it looks like running two PCI-E x16 cards at once results in x8/x8... no idea if that's bad or not. I've never used SLI and don't have any plans to, though leaving the option open would be nice. I also just like the overall look of this board, I think it would look nice in an H440.
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Jun 27, 2016 17:10
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Bleh Maestro posted:Anyone checked out custom PSU cables at cablemod.com or similar? God I want them so bad but they are more expensive than the PSU unit itself I am not a creative enough person to use custom cables. I love the idea of them, but asking me to color co-ordinate is just a mistake.
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Jun 27, 2016 18:27
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Bleh Maestro posted:I just built in a fractal r5 which is just black and white, and I just got everything black. The cryorig has a white fan so I got a little bit of coordination. That's about as well as I can do! I like the idea of using different colors to indicate different things. That's about as far as I've gotten.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:02
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Eletriarnation posted:Haswell had 1151 and the 80 series, Skylake has 1150 and the 100 series This is probably irrelevant but you got the sockets backwards.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:41
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If you don't know you need an i7, you probably don't. But if you do programming or run virtual machines or render your own CGI you can see some benefit.
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Jun 30, 2016 17:19
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Can anyone tell me the difference between these "different" series of ram?
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Jul 1, 2016 15:42
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fozzy fosbourne posted:I can't remember why, but I remember reading something that made me favor trident back when I built my system. I think it was the brand they used for their highest spec stuff so I guess I speculated that it might have a marginally higher tolerance or something, but I honestly don't remember. But my advice would be to get the trident in a tie breaker because I trust fosbourne research from 2 months ago that he doesn't remember. I saw a similar trend, tried to look into the specs to figure out why, and couldn't, so I suspect: Rexxed posted:From the provided specs the difference is cosmetic. It's likely that the heat spreaders are it. is the truth.
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Jul 1, 2016 16:11
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Anyone have any opinions on this external hard drive? I need one before I build my new PC, and I need it to be at least 5TB. This is 8 and it's affordable, and Seagate is supposed to be a decent brand, so it looked like a good deal to me. Only thing I dislike about it is that it appears to need an external power source. I guess that's standard, but if anyone knows of a backup drive that doesn't need one, I'd love to see it.
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Jul 3, 2016 22:08
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Anyone? I can't say, I'm not sure what the aversion to the Gigabyte motherboards is supposed to be in the first place. They used to be a well respected brand
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Jul 3, 2016 22:27
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Rexxed posted:I'm not sure about that external in particular, generally I'm not a huge fan of external disks or seagate in particular. That said, any external that has a 3.5" hard disk in it is going to require additional power. You can get externals that have 2.5" laptop drives in them instead which can draw enough power from USB to run but I think the max capacity is around 2TB on those. I've heard bad things about Seagate, and more bad things about Western Digital. My personal experience with both has been solid. What are my options here?
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Jul 4, 2016 00:18
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I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on my PC. I just want a final check here. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($207.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($399.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Directron) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($75.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1189.92 I probably won't actually buy all that RAM, but I'm confident I can find a suitable replacement. I wouldn't mind a second opinion on the motherboard and power supply, though. I know the mobo is more than I need, but I like the aesthetic. I'm looking for criticism on quality, not price. As for the PSU, I'd actually like to replace that one with a quieter one if anyone has any recommendations. I definitely want it to be modular and at least 550W, maybe more. I'll probably put a GTX 1080 in it eventually, but I'm really not sure. It would be nice if someone could double check my CPU cooler too. All I know is that Noctua is supposed to be quiet, and quiet is what I'm going for. I'll be re-using my current video card and my hard drives for now, so those are covered. Any other advice would be great.
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Jul 4, 2016 06:47
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Bleh Maestro posted:The gaming M5 motherboard is pretty much the same for $30+ less I'm pretty sure I'm just going with 32gb ram. The 64 set is just there because it looks nice. I'm more concerned with the PSU and CPU cooler being quiet. I don't care about the motherboard price.
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Jul 4, 2016 08:44
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Julie And Candy posted:This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options. ITX's biggest drawback for me is that it only has 2 ram slots. Realistically, this isn't an issue, since you can support 32gb of ram in two slots. It won't do well for SLI either. That board also isn't suitable for overclocking, but you don't have a 6500k, so that's not relevant either. If those things are an issue for you in terms of improving your build later on down the road, then don't go ITX - otherwise, I don't see a drawback. I would personally have gone ITX if it weren't for those issues myself.
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Jul 4, 2016 22:10
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TorakFade posted:here I am again with my silly questions. I might have some kind of part choosing OCD because I can't settle on anything without reading a ton of reviews and stuff (that's how I learned my way around PCs anyway). I've been looking into this today too. I don't know your budget, but it looks like the EVGA GQ series is a bit cheaper, but the GS series is quieter. This is the one I'm looking into buying right now, and it's much quieter according to their charts. Whether it's in your price range is up to you.
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Jul 5, 2016 01:28
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Where is a good place to actually buy cablemod cables in the US? Newegg doesn't have poo poo despite being listed as a reseller. Performance-PCs has them but I can't figure out how to mix and match colors and also they're expensive as poo poo. I was thinking I'd do a color-coded wiring though. Red for motherboard cables, blue for sata devices, green for video card. It's totally unnecessary - you know it's a video card plug from the way it's plugged into the video card - but I think it might look nice. I'm not really sure. Creativity is not my strong point, or design of any sort. I'm a web developer by the way. And I was the only developer on my last team who wasn't color blind.
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Jul 5, 2016 21:11
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I ordered my parts on Tuesday morning. I didn't pay for speedy shipping from Newegg so my motherboard and PSU aren't arriving until Monday. Any advice for dealing with depression?
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Jul 7, 2016 17:45
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   Can't wait to get started.
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Jul 9, 2016 00:27
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Gromit posted:When I attended Scott Moulton's hard drive recovery course he said that pretty much all external USB drives contain units that are refurbed from internal disks returned to the manufacturer. He didn't trust them at the time, but this was a few years ago. Speaking of which, my external just came in today. It's 8TB. I need to back up all the contents of my 4TB (that's an easy drag and drop), but I'd also like to make an image of my boot drive. I'm about to re-use my boot drive in a new PC, but in the case of some piece not working, I'd like to be able to reload that drive from my image. I assume I'll need some software to do that for me, any suggestions?
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Jul 9, 2016 02:24
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McCracAttack posted:...that's a real bummer. Yeah. All my parts were waiting for me right as I got home from work today, and I had all weekend in front of me. Now I can't even get started because the one component everything goes into is busted. It's not even modular. If it at least had a removable motherboard tray, I could do that much at least :x I put my CPU and RAM into the motherboard, now I have to wait until Tuesday for the replacement to show up. I probably won't get to work on it until next weekend.
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Jul 9, 2016 06:36
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Phlegmish posted:How did they gently caress up that badly. Well, the Amazon box it came in was twice the size of the box the case was in. So I imagine someone tried to stack it and it immediately got crushed because it was half-empty. If they had just slapped a slipping label on the original box it probably would have been fine.
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Jul 9, 2016 15:42
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Captain Hair posted:Back when I was looking into ram speeds in October the tests I read about reported 2800 being worth the extra cost, but there was a sweet spot in results that pointed to 2666/2800 being the optimum speed. I was looking at 2800, 3000, and 3200, and for 2x16gb, which I think is ideal, there was only a 20$ jump between each bracket, so I went with 3200. It looked like it was worth it to me. 40$ is not very much in the long run.
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Jul 9, 2016 18:35
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Since my H440 is horribly disfigured, Amazon is sending a replacement, and I'm supposed to send this one back to them. But it's totally unusable and I can't imagine it could be fixed. I don't suppose there's any chance I could call Amazon and convince them to let me trash it myself? It would save them the 20+$ in shipping, and it would let me reuse a couple of the parts. But I kind of doubt they allow any exceptions, it would probably be too easy to take advantage of. Anyone tried this?
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Jul 9, 2016 20:25
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McCracAttack posted:They may need it for insurance reasons or as an anti-fraud measure. I say just do as they ask. Yeah, but there's a phone number you can call. I just wondered if it was worth calling to ask.
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Jul 9, 2016 23:12
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Maybe it's the Alienware case he likes. Show him the Razer NZXT case and see if you can sell him on that.
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Jul 11, 2016 02:39
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I've got a Noctua CPU cooler, running two fans through a splitter, and then a low noise adapter. Can I run that through the fan hub, or do cpu fans need to specifically be on the cpu fan port on the motherboard?
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Jul 12, 2016 05:14
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xthetenth posted:I'd recommend taking the low noise adapter off if it's eventually going into a motherboard connector that allows voltage control. If not, did you get two adapters? I think it's recommended to put one between each fan and the splitter. Yeah, I got two low noise adapters and two ultra low noise adapters. The instruction manual wasn't specific but seemed to imply I only needed one. I'll change it when I get home. Or maybe just remove them and plug it into the fan hub?
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Jul 12, 2016 16:58
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KingShiro posted:So my case came, put everything together, it booted but I forgot to hook up sata power to the optical so I turn it off, hook up the cable and turn it back on, and nothing happens Either something is wrong with the drive, or the cable, or it's simply plugged in improperly, or you're drawing too much power from the PSU, or you're drawing too much power from a single port on the PSU(try separate sata power cords to each device if you haven't), or your motherboard decided to die as soon as you connected the drive. Or something else. I'd try switching cables, connecting the optical while disconnecting a hard drive, and basic things like that.
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Jul 12, 2016 20:58
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KingShiro posted:I disconnected all the cables, took the mobo out and did a barebones test and it will work then, but as soon as I put everything back in it doesn't want to power up. Did you try switching cables? Disconnecting the hard drive while connecting the optical? Anything else?
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Jul 12, 2016 22:43
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Taima posted:I'm just wondering, what's the best processor right now for a gamer in terms of $/performance? i5-6600k imo. Unless you aren't planning on overclocking, then drop the k Taima posted:just don't want to be bottlenecked in games and my 2500k Sandy Bridge is getting long in the tooth. Honestly you might be fine. Are you already overclocking?
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Jul 13, 2016 04:14
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I just found out you can disable automatic updates in winten pro, so I figured I'd try it out on my new PC. Can I register for the upgrade on my current PC and then use the install on my new PC? Also, can I do a fresh install? Or do I need to install win7 on the new PC, and then upgrade to winten?
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Jul 13, 2016 05:35
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xthetenth posted:GPUs get obsoleted fast enough they should be budgeted as a rental. Their price doesn't decrease linearly, there's sharp drops at the leading edge of each generation. As a result, the optimal time to buy is right after that leading edge. The 1070 and 1080 are probably roughly stabilized so buying one now is a good call. The 480's waiting on aftermarket models and the 1060 is dropping soon so wait a bit if you want to spend $300 or less. How long do you think it will be before their price drops?
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Jul 14, 2016 22:35
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