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Space Racist posted:The thing is, the instability is only in the Nvidia gamestreaming part (I.e., it doesn’t happen when I play locally on my PC - and when the stream does crash while I’m gaming on my TV, the game itself is still running on my PC in my office). As someone who has a Ryzen 7 2700x after upgrading from a 4th gen Intel part, upgrading from a 6th gen i7 to a Ryzen 7 2700x would be at best a lateral move in IPC, and probably a downward move in performance to be honest, as Ryzen processors are EXTREMELY sensitive to what RAM you use (you actually have to read the QVL and buy exactly the PNs specified or you will set yourself up for endless RAM misery). I spent a solid week chasing a memory issue in my new Ryzen build because I thought I was super smart and bought the wrong ram (Corsair Vengeance Pro 3200mhz) that apparently had Hynix garbage dies instead of Samsung B-die, and I couldn't even get the memory up to the stated on the box clocks, because it would BSOD above 2666mhz. Your actual problem is probably more related to problems with Nvidia drivers. Have you done a clean uninstall of all Nvidia software and drivers, run a tool like Display Driver Uninstaller and then installed a fresh set of drivers from Nvidia's website?
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Nov 1, 2018 02:00
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LRADIKAL posted:I disagree with the vehemence that you believe AMD ram choice to be so finicky. It does pay to do your research, but, especially with Ryzen 2000 you should get reasonable performance from most ram. Nah that's fair, I went outside the QVL and got slapped for it. I had to go back, and buy RAM that was actually on the QVL and had the timings I wanted in order to get a decent speed. There are however a lot of posts on various hardware forums about how Hynix ram in particular, which is common in some cheaper lines of DDR4, does not play nice with Ryzen.
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Nov 1, 2018 02:58
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Yakiniku Teishoku posted:Thank you very much for the advice! I will try to look through all of it, but I've heard that not-Nvidia graphics cards tend to have a lot of weird edge cases that I'm nervous about running into, so do you guys think that matters a lot? I know it's not a concern for like 90% of AAA games that will get compatibility updates right away, but since I tend to play weird things I'm sort of afraid of instances where small devs just go "*shrug* we only have one test computer sorry" You won't have any super terrible glitches really. AMD has gotten a good bit better at graphics drivers, and as long as the devs aren't complete idiots at coding you shouldn't have any more problems vs Nvidia. The biggest thing was when upgrading GPU driver packages, AMD hardware used to benefit from using a 3rd party tool to sweep out graphics drivers from the PC before installing the new ones to prevent any weird oddities from accidentally leftover files, because catalyst was a shaky piece of poo poo software. They've since renamed their software and I assume improved it's quality so it may not be a thing anymore. If you can get an rx570 8gb or equivalent, you should be able to play current 1080p games no problems at high settings, and 1440p games at reduced settings with few issues. It's a potent card for the price, as long as the prices are close to MSRP, and the msi armor 570 8gb is only 10 bucks more after mailin rebate than the powercolor 4gb 570. If you step up to the better cooler on the msi Rx 570 mech 2, it can do 3440x1440p@30fps stable in most current games at high settings. The only problem there is that the mech 2 cards are more expensive than the lower slotted cards enough to bring the 1060 6gb into the price range, and the 1060 6gb is a better card on every level and can do 3440x1440 with no issues, for less than a hundred dollars more than the cheapest rx 570 orange juche fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 12:53
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Koishi Komeiji posted:What country are you in? USA K series intel chips are overclocker parts, and intel's policy is to not include a box cooler with the chip. You will need a cooler, but you have several choices, you can go for a large air cooler, or you can go for an AIO water cooler. They're roughly equal in price, and a water cooler will be better than the equivalent air cooler both in audible volume, and thermal capability. a 240mm radiator (what you should be getting for an overclockable 6 core processor) can dissipate ~250+ watts of heat, and will run you about a hundred bucks. Air coolers are larger, louder, heavier, but cheaper. They also may not have as much overclocking headroom. If you are not overclocking and are not interested in overclocking, get the equivalent non-K chip and save money on your mobo by going down to a non-overclocking board. I would still get a cooler even if there's an intel cooler included, because intel coolers are poo poo. orange juche fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 19:27
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LRADIKAL posted:DISAGREE! Water vs Air is a matter of form factor, not overall noise and cooling capability. There are some tradeoffs of each, but they pale in comparison to the above. A hyper 212 isn't going to cool as good as a 240mm radiator, as one is rated for about 150w heat dissipation and the other is 250+. A H50 or whatever the single stack 120 is yeah maybe.
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Nov 3, 2018 19:53
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whalestory posted:I just recently purchased a AOC Agon AG271QG (1440p/165hz ips gsync) to initiate my leap from 1080p60fps to 1440p144fps. 1080p@120/144/200+hz/CPU bound - Intel, Ryzen is poorer in CPU bound scenarios, and the gap is sizeable at 1080p, enough so that spending extra on Team Blue will benefit you here. UQQHD/4K@60/75/100+hz - Toss up, Intel still better but the margin is much narrower and the price premium less justifiable. E: gently caress, saw that you bought an AOC 1440p@144hz monitor, Intel will still be better, but it will be a closer tie, and you could go either way. Honestly, look for a good deal around BF on Intel parts or Ryzen parts, and buy as many as you can then. If you go for a new CPU, you will need new mobo and ram regardless of whether Intel or AMD. You will need to also step up your PSU to a 650w at a minimum, as the 1080ti is a 250W card, and will need 2x 8pin PCIe plugs. As below, I would upgrade the GPU/PSU first, see if you get acceptable performance, and then if you do need to go with cpu upgrades, get the whole rest of the kit. Your case is perfectly fine, so no changes there. quote:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Here's a test list I generated, if you outlay 550-600 for your used 1080TI, this is what 550-600 bucks will get you in Ryzen world. quote:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Here's a Intel version, I went a bit slower on the RAM both because Intel is less sensitive to DDR4 2666 vs 3200, as well as having to make room for the add-in cooler and intel's CPU premium price. If you want 3200mhz RAM, or even 3000mhz, it's going to put the Ryzen build in the lead on price tbh. Ryzen will run fine with 2666mhz DDR4, but you will pick up 4-5 FPS going from 2666 to 3200mhz RAM on it due to Ryzen peculiarities with the memory controller and Ryzen's dual-die setup. Make sure that whatever RAM you pick if you pick Ryzen, has tight timings (c14), as the tightest timings belong to Samsung RAM and that poo poo will make a Ryzen sing with no tweaking or fuckery, just set D.O.C.P and go. orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 21:12
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whalestory posted:Thanks! It sounds like I might want to get a 1080 ti, and see if it's heavily bottlenecked by cpu. And if it is, I can go for a 2600/2600x and a new mobo and ram. Or I can splurge a little for the intel cpus... look at the lists I generated in the quoted post, they should show you roughly what you will need if you're doing an overhaul. Ignore the SSD suggestion as regardless of whatever you're getting it blows the budget.
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Nov 3, 2018 21:56
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A Real Happy Camper posted:Thanks! For what it's worth, $1000 isn't a hard cap, but anything over that I'd have to pay for out of my pocket instead of spending someone else's money, so i'm willing to bump a few things up here and there. I tried to mess with some things to get an m.2 ssd and a micro-ATX board/case, am I missing anything huge here? Your build is fine, but your RAM isn't on your QVL for your board. Thanks to the way Ryzen uses the memory controller and the RAM as part of the Infinity Fabric that ties the two dies in the processor together, you may have issues taking the RAM to the rated 3200mhz speed. For worry free overclocking, go with something with Samsung B Die (either c14 or c15 RAM at 3200), which goes really well with Ryzen and AM4, or make sure you look up the QVL and find 3200mhz rated RAM. Playing with anything else may cause you to have to break out a RAM timing calculator and thaiphoon burner and a lot of looking at BSODs and memtest86 to achieve the rated speeds, you do not want to do that. AM4 is notorious for being finicky on RAM that isn't Samsung or on the QVL for the specific board you are getting. orange juche fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 23:12
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Stickman posted:That kit should be (CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16). There were some reports of a revision using Hynix, but the most recent reviews have all indicated B350/450 compatibility. Yeah, I still have a set of those sticks in their cases, because I plugged them into my 2700x with an ROG ASUS X470-F GAMING mobo, and couldn't get it past 2667 MHz even after a BIOS update and sitting there with a ram calculator and memtest86. I went out and bought a set of Flare X and was at 3200 with no issues, DOCP and go. If the MSI B350 bios is more up to date than the one for ASUS's x470 he should be fine. orange juche fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 23:18
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Llamadeus posted:IMO don't bother with the C7, it probably isn't any better than the stock cooler (or at least not $32 worth of better). 13c worth of better actually. It's a good, low profile cooler. People underestimate how poo poo intel's coolers are. Every review on that link says that cooler is miles better than the intel thing.
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Nov 3, 2018 23:32
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net cafe scandal posted:Hey folks. I just wanted to double-check my second PC build - it's been a while since my last one, and I wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything dumb here. CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($32.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($135.84 @ Newegg) Memory: Team - T-Force Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($80.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($154.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($239.98 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair - 250D Mini ITX Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($94.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1055.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-03 18:43 EDT-0400 Build is solid, changed out the GPU for a better offering from EVGA that also happens to be 10 dollars cheaper thanks to mail in rebates. Card is smaller than the MSI one, and the thermal solution is a higher quality one than the MSI card. orange juche fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Nov 3, 2018 |
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Nov 3, 2018 23:44
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A Real Happy Camper posted:Since I'm not going to be Overclocking, do i need to worry about RAM? Would there be a cheaper set to put in the build instead? E: What they said.
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Nov 3, 2018 23:58
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Stickman posted:It's such a pain in the rear end that retailers don't bother to put revision details in their product descriptions and that corsair releases revisions that seriously affect performance. To be fair, Ryzen is a bit of an odd duck with how sensitive its memory controller is to RAM cache latencies and speeds. Intel's IMC seems to care far less about what RAM you are using as long as it's the right flavor of DDR.
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Nov 4, 2018 00:29
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Stickman posted:That's true, it would just be nice to have enough product information able to tell if the kit you're buying is going to work or not. Rule of thumb is look for tight timings, or go off the QVL. for example 3200mhz CL14 and CL15 are all Samsung B die, as Hynix and Micron don't make anything with that speed and timing. See also anything north of 3600mhz, as Micron and Hynix don't make RAM at those speeds either. Ryzen is basically the Church of the Samsung B Die because anything else is gambling with BIOS stability unless the board manufacturer has specifically made allowances in the BIOS to make the RAM stable. You might get to 2933 or beyond with Hynix memory, you might not, but if you don't it's going to cost more than you would have spent initially just buying the Samsung memory. E: I'm only one guy on the internet, an old man yelling at clouds about memory compatibility. Ignore me. orange juche fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Nov 4, 2018 |
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Nov 4, 2018 00:57
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dedian posted:Hi thread! Could I get a quick check on a build I'm doing for a new PC for my nephew? Get a 9600k. You lose HyperThreading but gain 2 physical cores to bring you to 8c8t, which add more bang for the buck than having 6c12t in the 8600k, you also gain a soldered IHS, which will make your thermals better. the 9600k is also cheaper than the 8700k as well.
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Nov 4, 2018 03:01
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BIG HEADLINE posted:I think you meant a 9700K. The 9600K is 6C/6T. Yep! My bad, though the 9600k is about the same performance as the 8700k due to ipc improvement, higher clocks, and soldered IHS, and is a lower price than the 8700k. For 8700k plus a little, you get the 9700k which more than beats the 8700k. orange juche fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Nov 4, 2018 |
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Nov 4, 2018 03:32
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dedian posted:Thanks! Would a Cryorig H7 be OK on a 9700k vs the Noctua? That's what I put on his current PC when I gave it to him since I didn't have anything else around, and maybe it could be reused to save some money. The 9700k without overclocking draws 170w+ at full tilt as a package if you have a z series board that has enough power phases to support it. I don't know how much of that is converted to actual heat, but I would guess that the cryorig h7 with it's 150w TDP would be overloaded or at least close to its thermal limit, especially if he does anything like fiddle with overclocking, which is the main reason to buy a K chip. The 9700k and 9900k are monster chips that make a lot of heat, but in exchange they're the fastest things you can get from Intel. Go with the Noctua, the cryorig won't be able to handle the 9700k While the 9 series i7 and i9 can run just fine on the power delivery of the z370 boards, the z390 was built for the 9th gen Intel processors and generally have more power delivery capacity, which will lead to higher turbo boost and higher overclocking headroom. You might look at the ASRock Z390M Pro4 Micro ATX board here https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GLL48d/asrock-z390m-pro4-micro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z390m-pro4. There's a few articles about conflicts among reviewers of the 9 series chips namely Linus Tech Tips vs literally everyone else because he was a dummy and used a Z370 board for an i9 9900k and predictably didn't come anywhere close to pushing the chip to 100%, and so he was reporting 55c (actually this is pretty mild temps) under full load while everyone else was saying that their 9900k chips were hitting 80c+ with good cooling because they were using boards rated to deliver all the power that the 9900k is specced for to hit its 5ghz clock. The 9700k is only a little bit slower at 4.9ghz, so it's not any cooler running really. It doesn't have anything flashy like RGB, but it is the cheapest z390 board thanks to that, it has a reasonably high spec power delivery system, so the chip won't be starved for power or have problems with voltage drop or anything else. If you're not worried about overclocking at all ignore the above suggestions, with the exception of the Noctua fan, as it's much more powerful than the cryorig h7 and is what you should get orange juche fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Nov 4, 2018 |
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Nov 4, 2018 05:55
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Paul MaudDib posted:there isn't a difference between power consumption and heat output, only manufacturer lies about how they're measuring at base clocks (Intel) or by an arcane formula that incorporates the influence of the moon on the working fluid (AMD). In practice if you pull 170W you need to dissipate 170W. Yeah I just didn't know if 170w into the socket meant 170w of dissipation needed, as I didn't think that 100% of the power would be converted to heat, though I did know that Intel and AMD have been lying about power draw and cooling requirements for several generations now.
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Nov 4, 2018 06:14
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dedian posted:The $1500 budget it somewhat loose and I want to aim under, but ~$35 over isn't the end of the world. Overclocking (for his current games anyway) won't be necessary nor tackled immediately but I want it to be an option for this system over the next few years. That looks like a good setup as long as you're not lacking anything you want for that PC, it will last 5 years easily, probably longer, with maybe a 3rd or 4th year GPU upgrade to push it a couple more years. I made a Sandy Bridge i7 last me until this year just fine via GPU upgrading, and only upgraded my whole system because I had ram go bad and didn't want to buy old ddr3 because DDR4 is a thing now. Good luck building!
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Nov 4, 2018 06:28
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Unknownmass posted:Im looking to build a new machine. It will be used for gaming and general web browsing. I don't need to do VR or any ultra level graphics, just would like to use it over the next few years. I like the idea of a small case and Mini ITX sounds great, but I don't know to much of the downsides it brings. This build was posted a few pages ago and looks good. Am I limited by the small case on this build, as in if I went with a bigger case and appropriate pieces would performance change? If I added 100-200$ more to any piece would I see big change? Mini ITX is the smallest possible board you can get. Literally CPU, 2 ram sticks, and a gpu slot. You're limited true, but your PC won't be much bigger than the power supply. If you wanted big change, 200 dollars to the GPU and a slightly larger case would get you a 1070, which would be a bit faster. Not enough to matter if you're playing games at 1080p though. The 1060 can do regular HD just fine Also as above, the memory increase would be your biggest performance boost. 16gb of ram would be more noticeable in everyday use than a 1070 vs 1060 at 60hz 1080p gaming. orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Nov 5, 2018 |
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Nov 5, 2018 22:04
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prom candy posted:Am I just not noticing tearing that's happening? I play lots of action games at inconsistent frame rates and I pretty much never notice it. Maybe I should just get a 1070 and keep living without it. Tearing really only happens when you are playing at super high refresh rates with vsync off. If you're playing at FPS ranges below the rate your monitor is set at, what you will notice instead is a bit of latency in actions on screen as it will wait to push the frame until it has a full frame to push that lines up with the refresh rate of the monitor or whatever. Vsync works very well for preventing tearing, but it introduces input lag in exchange. If you can live with a bit of input lag or are not playing an arena shooter/overwatch or whatever, you'll be fine with just Vsync. I'm sure that adaptive refresh rates or whatever are the second coming of jeebus according to some people ITT, but I've never used it and obviously you can't miss what you've never experienced. GSYNC/Freesync not as critical an upgrade as one that will have you hitting consistent, smooth framerates in games you play. orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 7, 2018 |
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Nov 7, 2018 21:57
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ItBreathes posted:Any processor upgrade is going to require new ram, which is pretty pricey right now, though I've seen some decent sales the last couple days. A 2600 is solid midrange and the obvious choice for anyone not trying to game at >100fps. Save money if your PSU is less than 8-10 years old, don't upgrade the PSU unless it offers a new feature that your current one does not support, or if you notice any noise from the fans or any sort of damage/discoloration on the capacitors. PSUs aren't worth replacing as long as you buy high quality ones that are rated gold/platinum efficiency and have long manufacturer warranties. The days of chinese firecracker PSUs are past for the most part, and a high quality one should last anywhere between 7 to 10 years, but if it's lacking either power to push the new parts, or if it smells or looks funny, replace it. orange juche fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 03:26
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Counterpoint: PSU pricing is beginning to inch up. What used to cost ~$60 is now ~$75-80, and will likely go up more over the next month or two as we get closer to the 1/1 trigger date for the tariffs. EVGA's extended warranty promo also ends on 12/31/18. Yeah if you can get a good deal now and your PSU is more than a couple years old (He was running an i5-750, so the PSU is ~8-10 years old if he hasn't replaced it, and built it when Lynnfield chips were contemporary) you should probably do so. 9 years is probably getting to the range where you want to think about replacing it, if it wasn't something with a 10+ year warranty to begin with.
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Nov 8, 2018 03:51
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hooah posted:I've been picking some parts to rebuild my gaming machine when my bonus comes in February. Here's what I've got so far: Keep in mind that like BIG HEADLINE said, prices are going up ~10% due to tariffs in January. So you've got about a hundred instead of 200-300.
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Nov 8, 2018 04:49
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net cafe scandal posted:What upgrade would you boys say is more significant for 1080p gaming? 1060 6gb should be far more than enough for 1080p gaming, it's serviceable up to 1440p tbh. 8gb to 16gb is a usability improvement for your PC though, and if you're doing semi-serious gaming you should probably have 16GB of RAM simply because it doesn't cost too much right now and is a worthwhile investment. Would have to know more about your PC though to determine whether it's worth the upgrade. If your PC is old and is using early DDR3, you probably would be better served by not upgrading the RAM at all in the current setup, and just upgrading the PC wholesale to a new processor, mobo and RAM, carrying over your Geforce 1060 6GB to the new PC. orange juche fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 23:06
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net cafe scandal posted:Technically neither is an upgrade, but rather a starting point. I'm tweaking my build from my previous post to be a little nicer since my budget expanded by a reasonable degree. I probably don't have enough to spring for both, but in a pinch, which of the two offers more tangible improvement to gaming? I ask mainly because a lot of the most graphically intensive games of the past few years will usually have both listed in their recommended settings. Your build from the previous thread looks solid for a gaming rig, the 8400 and the 1060 6gb is fine for what you have. By the time the 1060 is too slow to handle games, which will be quite a while, you'll be looking at buying a whole new computer anyways. Buy the RAM upgrade for more usability and less offloading of stuff to virtual memory while gaming, or if you want to keep more than 10-15 tabs in chrome open. That said, if you haven't purchased parts yet, you may be able to save money by going with a Ryzen 5 2600x https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-2600X-vs-Intel-Core-i5-8400/3956vs3939 It's faster than an i5 8400, comes with a decent cooler, and motherboards for AMD parts are usually cheaper than equivalent Intel stuff. You will also have a future drop in upgrade path as the AM4 has been commited to by AMD through at least 2020, which means you can drop a Ryzen 5 3600 or 4600 in the same slot with no need to rebuy the motherboard. quote:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant It's ~40 dollars more for that 8 extra GB of RAM, you don't need an aftermarket cooler as the one on the 2600x is perfectly fine for any use case you're going to see unless you're going really hard on overclocking, which you said you weren't. If you have more money left over after this you can invest in a GPU upgrade if you like. orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 23:39
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I don't know what silicon power drives are but Sandisks are literally rebadged WD Blue (SATA) and WD Black (NVMe) drives. Not excellent but I've got a 1TB WD Black NVMe M.2 drive in my PC and even though I've used the hell out of my SSD over the last year installing and removing games and downloading large files and deleting them, I'm at less than a half a percent on the media wear out indicator. At my current usage I could beat the poo poo out of it for far longer than this PC will live and it will still have usable life. orange juche fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 11:25
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Wengy posted:I've posted itt some time ago about upgrading my gaming PC to get 1440p ultra gaming - having read up on the latest hardware poo poo, I have to say I'm amazed at how loving expensive everything has gotten. A decent 1440p monitor? 700 bucks in my country. A 2080? An even 1000, and who knows, maybe only the second generation of these cards will be good enough to really take advantage of ray-tracing. Hell, I paid like 500 for my 970 4 years ago and thought that was expensive. And don't even get me started on RAM (300 for 32 GB???) and CPUs (i7 9700 = 500 bucks in my country). All in all, I'm looking at like 2500 to 3000 buckaroos to get my system (literally) up to speed. loving hell. Might just buy an Xbox One X and a nice 4k display and call it a day tbh. 1440p monitors have never been super cheap, as 1080p monitors are cheap due to economies of scale (everyone uses them), and the 2080 and 2080ti are not a value proposition right now. If you can get them the 1060ti 6gb or 1070 are quite capable of 1440p gaming in AAA titles with no serious issues.
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Nov 9, 2018 11:34
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Wengy posted:I naively assumed that 1440p would be about as standard now as 1080p was when I last upgraded my PC (2013/14). Welp! I mean, if you want a smallish 1440p monitor, Dell makes a 24 inch one that is really solid, and runs about 400USD. 1440p gets expensive when you go to 27 inch and up sizes, or ultrawide 21:9 screen ratios. Dell Gaming Monitor S2417DG YNY1D 24-Inch Screen LED-Lit TN with G-SYNC, QHD 2560 x 1440, 165Hz Refresh Rate, 1ms Response Time, 16:9 Aspect Ratio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IOO4SGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wHw5BbT756SVG orange juche fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 11:55
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Wengy posted:Interesting, I’ll look into that. I don’t really need anything bigger than 24“. It literally does nothing but run at 165hz and have G-SYNC. No speakers, not an IPS panel, so color may suffer a bit, but you can calibrate it to look acceptable anyways (IPS is comparatively really expensive above 100hz). orange juche fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 12:03
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axeil posted:Oh god. Leaks aren't a thing with AIOs, and AIOs are easy as gently caress to install, click two clips into place on the socket after GOOPING poo poo TONS OF THERMAL PASTE SO MUCH IT GOOPS OUT THE SIDES AND OOZES ALL OVER THE MOTHERBOARD onto the IHS, and then fasten the radiator and fan combo to your case either in the front, top, or rear, and then plug in your pump to the CPU pump/fan header, and the fan into one of your case fan headers. (the thermal paste comment isn't serious, please dear lord use thermal paste appropriately) There's approximately 2 more steps to installing an AIO than a tower cooler, but neither are complex. If your PC is not a i7-9700k or i7-9900k, an air cooler will meet your needs and run just fine. If you have a 9900k, you need liquid cooling if you are interested in overclocking, simply because a large enough air cooler to dissipate all the heat from the chip would be larger than you can fit in an ATX case, due to the absolutely massive amounts of heat being radiated through the IHS (something like 250+ watts at 5GHz) . Radiators allow you to be more flexible with placement, and a 360mm radiator will have better cooling than any tower cooler. GPUs get away with smaller air coolers because people honestly give less of a gently caress about the GPU running at 95c than the CPU. Note that even though a 240mm radiator can technically cool a 9900k at full tilt, the liquid would be at 90c+, and I would be worried about longevity of the cooler. orange juche fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 20:39
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axeil posted:My case is from 2010 before all this stuff got popularized, is that going to be an issue? Depends on what kind of case you have. I have a case in my closet from 2009 that has all the poo poo for liquid cooling loops and radiator mounts. What's your CPU? If it's not a 9900k, you can get away with a 240mm radiator, or a 120mm, but at that point just get a tower cooler, it will be cooler and quieter. An AIO will always be louder than a tower cooler, its main strong points are being able to push a little bit harder due to more "sink" for the heat (the coolant), and form factor, as you won't have a massive block hanging off your motherboard. There is no tower cooler equivalent for a 360 or 480mm radiator, and they will cool better but unless you have a case built for liquid cooling you won't have the appropriate mounts in the case for the radiator. If you're looking at a setup north of needing a 360mm radiator for some loving reason, this is the wrong thread because you're moving into the rarefied air of industrial constant flow chiller setups and LN2. orange juche fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 20:59
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TheFluff posted:The 9700K has effectively the same heat output as the 8700K in practice. You don't need water cooling for that, and especially not if you're not going to push a lot of overclocking. A big tower air cooler is perfectly fine. If you can't fit a 360mm radiator, you should never go AIO in an ATX case period, because even the better 240mm ones are only marginally better than the best air coolers, except they cost at least twice as much as the air coolers. The only reason to ever use a 240mm or smaller AIO for CPU cooling is if you have a small case where you can't fit a big tower cooler. Stop recommending it to people who aren't even asking about overclocking you dinguses, it's throwing money away for absolutely no reason. Like i said, don't buy an AIO unless you got a 9900k. I don't know if you noticed that buried in my wall of text but i said the equivalent tower coolers are better unless you have a concern about form factor. You can fit a Noctua D15 but it will be a bit tight. The Noctua D15 is the biggest cooler I've ever seen, so if you can fit that you can fit anything https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608045 If you're a bit more concerned about space, go with the D15S, which removes the front fan and moves the heatsink a bit to better accomodate your GPU. orange juche fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 21:23
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TheFluff posted:The main board feature you might be interested in on Z390 is a 10 gigabit network card - some of the high end boards come with that (the others just have 1 gigabit). Some boards also come with an integrated wifi card, if you're interested in that. Other than those two features though, boards mainly differ in Avoid the Maximus XI Hero, they cheaped the gently caress out on power delivery. It was mentioned upthread a ways but the Maximus XI hero is a budget board for a premium price when it comes to power phases and quality VRMs. Asus is not a good pick this cycle tbh.
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Nov 9, 2018 21:39
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bling (LED's) and whether they have USB-C ports or not.
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Ranter posted:2080ti cards are never going to get any cheaper are they? I used to just say 'gently caress it' when it came to buying the best card at the time but $1400 is .... something else No, they are likely not to get any cheaper. The Tensor Core in the 2070/2080/2080ti is loving massive, and an absolute assload of silicon. Yields are low and prices are high due to the complexity of the GPU. Add to this that there's actually not anything on the market (yet) that even justifies the main function of the GPU. There's just no value in it right now, a 1080ti is straight up the better buy right now, even if the price is back up over MSRP due to the supply drying up. I say this as a person who bought a 2080, it isn't worth it right now, and won't be worth it for quite some time. orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Nov 10, 2018 |
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Nov 10, 2018 00:32
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Ranter posted:No point upgrading my 980ti then. What it would do would be get you from ~40-45FPS at max settings in ultrawide 1440p games, to ~60-75fps. There's still a lot of life left in 980ti's, too much to upgrade right now at this time.
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Nov 10, 2018 00:39
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Butt Discussin posted:What are the best 360mm AIO coolers? I want to OC a 9900k to at least 5.0 ghz all cores, so something like that would be necessary, it sounds like? Also, will all 360mm AIO coolers fit in an NZXT H500i? No 360mm AIO coolers will fit in a NZXT H500i. The largest it can fit is a 280mm in front, and/or a 120mm in the rear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8y0JBsZ5t0 Here's a year old review of liquid coolers by a somewhat decent reviewer. The upshot is... buy a Noctua D15 and call it a day.
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Nov 10, 2018 05:37
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The best way to upgrade an AIO if you have one, is to buy some decent static pressure fans, because the ones in the box almost universally suck. AIOs are quite expensive and they save money on the kits by using cheap as poo poo fans.
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Nov 10, 2018 20:11
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alphabettitouretti posted:I've ordered a Corsair H60. Don't mind replacing the fan if it's going to make things better. Any recommendations? I mean, anything with a silver or gold efficiency rating is going to be good, because it will be built with high quality components. Corsair is pretty good though, I've run them in all my builds and never had one fail on me. As long as your PSU has a good efficiency rating, and isn't from some weird off brand it will last the life of your PC.
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Nov 10, 2018 20:35
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alphabettitouretti posted:Cool. I mean, it was a Corsair rm that blew up and took out my system, but I've always viewed them as reliable. All I can relate is my own experience. You can still have a good quality power supply let the angry pixies out. Though, a modern PSU should have protective circuits that prevent a failure from traveling into the motherboard and components, and instead shunt the power surge down the ground, but eh 
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Nov 10, 2018 21:40
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