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LogisticEarth posted:Hilariously petty new neighbor question: the new folks next door suddenly started mowing a couple mower widths on my side of the line. I wouldn't mind except: If it were my neighbor I'd wait until he was out doing it and then shoot him in the dilz with a pellet gun. But I hate my neighbor a lot. Partially for a very similar reason (he had his yard landscaped and in doing so they landscaped about 2.5' of what was very obviously my yard, replacing my nice river rock with lovely DG and removing a shrub that I liked in the process). You should probably try talking to yours.
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Aug 18, 2017 00:07
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Problem! posted:Naturally we said gently caress that poo poo. 50k to double the size of your house doesn't seem that bad to me?
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Aug 18, 2017 00:12
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Yeah I guess it depends what they do with it. My ~1500 square foot walkout basement has a full bath, three other rooms (Jr Master type BR, media room, game room, plus the unfinished utility room), it's own furnace and A/C unit, and pretty nice finishes/surfaces/built in cabinetry, etc. I have no idea what they would have charged to do it since it came that way though. Maybe 50k still would have been a rip off, I guess I was mostly thinking about the value added to a home by doubling its size. Here at least a walkout basement is just considered normal square footage whereas a regular basement that's finished might not be worth as much as main floor footage I guess. It's a new house but we bought in too late to even pick floor coverings. The broker told me that when they started out they made the finished basement optional but everyone opted for it so they just started including it.
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Aug 18, 2017 02:53
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Anyone know some shiz about landscaping? We bought a new house and on some level I can appreciate that they left the backyard bare so people can do their own thing but for the most part it's just annoying and stupid because you coulda landscaped it for nearly free back when you could run a D9 through the backyards but now that there's other houses and fences and poo poo, it's practically impossible. And I know they didn't do it so that people can do their own thing, but because they're cheap and lazy, but that's neither here nor there. Anyway my house is on a hillside and has a walkout basement. The hill is steep. Like you can walk up it but just barely and you'll probably slip a couple times and loose dirt and rock will slide down it while you're doing it. The backyard is about 0.4 acres but most of it is (and will remain) sloped natural desert landscape. The flat part was created with the earth excavated for the foundation and is maybe 80' wide and 20' deep and that's what needs landscaped. We just want all of it covered in some kind of rock and maybe the patio expanded and a 2' tall retaining wall against the fence on the uphill side. The problem (besides steep) is that the lot isn't very wide beyond the house. And there's air conditioners on one side and a garage access platform on the other side. You couldn't get poo poo down the garage side. The A/C side is definitely wide enough to get one of these down:  If you disconnected and temporarily moved the air conditioners you could probably get something a little bigger down there. Like this size maybe?:  Maybe a little bigger. I'd have to measure to be sure. Obviously using that little pissant bucket to carry river rock down into the backyard would not work. Like it'd be worse than doing it by hand. But can these little guys carry those super sack sized things of gravel down a slope like that? Seems like it'd be pretty sketchy to me but I don't know poo poo about it. The only other thing I can really think of is having a load of gravel dumped in the driveway and carrying it through the living room and dumping it off the deck a bucket at a time, and then spreading it around manually after it's down there. I haven't yet tried to do some napkin math on this yet but I'm guessing thousands of buckets. Maybe you do 20 buckets a day all winter or something? I dunno. It seems crazy obviously but so do the alternatives. The other thing I'm thinking about is waiting and hoping a neighbor does something similar and then seeing how it goes and talking to them and their landscaper about it. Sooner or later someone will do some landscaping I would think, I can't imagine everyone leaving their backyard bare dirt forever. I did talk to a landscaper designer guy and he looked at the yard and seemed positive about the tiny excavator's abilities but I'm afraid it's gonna be a nightmare and insanely expensive and might even just not work. Anyone with any insight or advice? This is completely foreign territory to me.
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Sep 2, 2017 02:47
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LogisticEarth posted:I'm having trouble visualizing exactly what problem you're dealing with? Pics and maybe a sketch of what you want? If you're just trying to move rock to the back yard, they do have stuff like powered wheelbarrows, or a garden tractor with trailer, or hell even a Bobcat. I'm kind of confused as to why you're jumping to a mini. The problem is unusually steep & narrow slope to get from the street to the yard. I had never heard of a powered wheelbarrow but googling it, it could be potentially the best solution. A garden tractor with a trailer will probably topple down the slope I'm pretty sure and I'm not sure a bobcat will be that much better. I think I have a pic or two but not sure they convey the steepness that well. I'll take a look and also probably try and get a rough rise/run measurement.
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Sep 2, 2017 10:54
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The mini was mentioned by the landscape guy as being better able to deal with the slope than something like a bobcat.  The fence at the top can easily be taken down for access. it's 5.5' at the narrowest point with the A/Cs and about 9.5' wide if you moved the A/Cs. And like I said, it's steep enough that you can't walk up it without repeatedly slipping/dislodging dirt/rocks. It's probably about a 100% grade at and then starts to flatten where the A/Cs are. The other side of the lot is wider/has more room between the house and fence but can't work due to the side garage access.
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Sep 2, 2017 11:37
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LogisticEarth posted:That's the finished lot surface that they hand you? WTF? It's bare soil. I understand you're in the desert but that's a mess and is like erosion city. Yeah it's pretty stupid.
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Sep 3, 2017 04:43
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Motronic posted:Whoever told you to use a mini ex instead of a tracked bobcat for that needs to be ignored (because they probably have no idea how to use either on a slope, certainly not a bobcat). It was the landscape designer guy for one of the larger landscaping companies in town so it's not totally surprising he didn't really know wtf he was talking about, I assume if I actually did use that company the person in charge of the actual work would know better. quote:Depending on how much you need to move - day labor is a better idea. Yeah that's definitely a possibility. I started freaking out a little bit about the difficulty and expense but I'm feeling better now. Taking some measurements it's not quite as steep as I thought plus even without moving the A/Cs there's technically about 7" to spare running a bobcat past them. Thanks, goons.
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Sep 3, 2017 17:55
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Sunshine89 posted:I have a big field ant mound in my backyard, and nothing I do seems to get rid of it. They laughed at the ant spikes I placed around it. The mound is too deep for the expanding foam insecticides to reach the queen. Bombing it with Borax just killed the grass. Fill it with molten aluminum, put video on YouTube, sell resulting art on eBay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGJ2jMZ-gaI
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Oct 10, 2017 15:50
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Thermostat chat: I have two Nests and I don't think they've saved me a goddamn penny over a 30 dollar thermostat because I can program a thermostat. But they do look nice and being wifi enabled is good because if I'm coming home early I can turn them on early. They will save you some money if you're not capable of programming a digital thermostat but I also think their "learning" function is largely garbage and results in settings that don't make a lot of sense for most people.
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Oct 25, 2017 02:02
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scrubs season six posted:The mini was mentioned by the landscape guy as being better able to deal with the slope than something like a bobcat. Landscaping update. I decided to wait for two reasons, one I wanted to make sure there weren't any winter drainage issues which would undoubtedly be blamed on my landscaping, and two, hoping a neighbor would get theirs landscaped and I'd be able to see how it worked. And the latter happened. It's kind of an edge case since they literally patio'd 95% of the flat part of their backyard, but what they did was make a ramp out of plywood and used it to both dump the patio substrate down (with a guy stationed in the middle to help it along with a shovel) and also to slide the patio pavers down. But I think river rock will slide down the ramp better than the poo poo you put under patios, so seems like a pretty good solution. They moved enough stuff down the ramp in a day with only a few guys to make the base of a ~3500 square foot patio, so... Anyway I'll probably contact the same company soon and try and get something set up for the spring.
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Oct 25, 2017 02:10
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TIL that it wasn't a blower or heating element issue causing my dryer to dry 1/3 as fast as it should for months, but because the vent in our new house was sufficiently encroached on by stucco to mean the flap could only open 1/16th of an inch. I scraped away the stucco with a rock I picked up off the ground and now the dryer is operating at 100%. I am and idiot.
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Nov 30, 2017 18:33
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howdoesishotweb posted:I now realize how lucky we are with our place. Previous owners left all their curtains, washed and touched up all the walls with fresh labeled paint, and have a binder of all appliance manuals. We bought a new house with probably more than average size/number of windows for its size and you don't really think about how expensive that crap is until you're starting completely from scratch. Both my previous houses needed some curtains and blinds here and there but I don't think I spent more than $500 on either of them. The new house ended up being: 5 blinds 17 curtain rods 60 108" curtain panels And I refuse to add up how much it cost.
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Dec 7, 2017 20:48
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Spikes32 posted:Got a question about some flooring. My friends redid their kitchen floor, which ended up leaving a gap of about 6 inches between the kitchen laminate and hardwood in the next room. It's slightly higher leveled on the non kitchen side and basically needs a strip of something laid down to bridge the divide. What terms should I use to search for how to fix this for them? I want it to be my wedding present to them in June. Why is the gap 6”?
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Jan 18, 2018 22:03
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Yeah your typical threshold piece is 2 or 3”, not the 7 or 8” that it sounds like this needs. It sounds like they need to put down some more laminate but maybe I’m misunderstanding the issue.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:36
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CitizenKain posted:So, when putting a house up for sale, I assume it is standard practice to remove the flag with a nazi symbol on it before listing it. Because poking around zillow I found someone who looks like they missed that memo. That kitchen flooring sucks too.
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Jan 31, 2018 00:56
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veiled boner fuel posted:Landscaping update. I decided to wait for two reasons, one I wanted to make sure there weren't any winter drainage issues which would undoubtedly be blamed on my landscaping, and two, hoping a neighbor would get theirs landscaped and I'd be able to see how it worked. Another update! After sitting around on my nuts for 3 months I thought "poo poo, I shoulda been getting this set up, everyone is probably getting booked out the rear end for spring right now." So I contacted five landscaping companies through Yelp and (much different than what happened last time), all five responded immediately and all five were able to get someone out to my house within ~5 days to look at the situation and work up an estimate. And I got the first estimate today! And it's thirty six loving thousand dollars! And now I'm gonna go shoot myself in the goddamn head!
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Jan 31, 2018 01:04
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uwaeve posted:Go to post office, ask for mover’s packet (think it has forms for change of address etc but I think they come with coupons). They also come with 20% off at BB&B (all items not just one item) which can be handy if you need to buy a million curtain panels for a new house.
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Jan 31, 2018 01:11
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Leperflesh posted:No but seriously, $36k for landscaping could be super reasonable or insane, it all depends on what you're doing and how many acres of it/how much concrete/how many rare exotic trees you're doing it with True. But this is: 0 rare trees 0 concrete Maybe 3000 square feet which will mostly just be river rock or some poo poo. I've got 3 more bids that should be coming in but at least one of the others was spitballed at "20 grand if it were flat, plus 8 grand for the slope" so our thinking that it'd be ~12 grand for something real basic and maybe 18 grand with some frills may not work out. Tbf this should be the highest since I think he misunderstood a couple things we said with regard to raised beds and retaining walls and poo poo, but my hopes of getting it done super nice for under 20k are starting to evaporate.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:45
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veiled boner fuel posted:True. But this is: Second bid came in and was $17,300 and all is once again right with the world. The spouse has been out of town the whole time and I didn't even tell her about the 36k bid until we got the 17k bid because I didn't want her to lose her mind. This cheap bid is missing three things from the 36k bid but one of those things was actually a misunderstanding and we didn't want it anyway. Checking with the cheap bidder on the cost to add the other two things (which are definitely optional). And all three things don't add up to 19k. Maybe 5k. After I told all this to the spouse she said "yeah that (high priced company) didn't really seem like they wanted the work anyway" so maybe that explains the other part of it.
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Feb 4, 2018 22:28
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enraged_camel posted:What are some fast-growing trees that can be planted in a backyard? I want something that will be able to support a rope swing after a few years, and a tree-house after about 10. Lots of shade preferred. Both these things seem impossible to me but I am not an arborist. I had a Siberian Elm that grew insanely quick and I’m still not sure it would make that time table. It was also ugly, susceptible to disease, not suitable for rope swings, and probably not suitable for tree houses either. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Apr 26, 2018 |
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Apr 26, 2018 23:17
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veiled boner fuel posted:Landscaping update. I decided to wait for two reasons, one I wanted to make sure there weren't any winter drainage issues which would undoubtedly be blamed on my landscaping, and two, hoping a neighbor would get theirs landscaped and I'd be able to see how it worked. Another landscaping update, work has begun, on the rainiest week in years, so work immediately ground to a halt. But they did manage to get a Bobcat down the death slope without toppling over or running into my house, and they buried the three gutter spouts and ran them out to the edge of the hill so they can drain away from my foundation and without eroding my yard. Hopefully. 
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May 18, 2018 01:53
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FAGGY CLAUSE posted:Bought a house in January. Since then: a wind storm blew off a ton of shingles, in the middle of replacing a roof. Two nights ago heavy rains caused my basement to flood and sump pump to fail. 6 inches of water, finished basement, whole thing is destroyed. Have two teams of contractors at my house tearing everything apart. How's your insurance?
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May 18, 2018 01:55
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Etrips posted:Well, I plan on completely redoing the garage with Swisstrax flooring, new paint on walls/ceiling, lighting, etc. The concrete at the bottom will be a gigantic eyesore with all of that done. It's a garage, dude. I fully appreciate painting and putting in flooring and what not, but I still can't see freaking out about a concrete lip. My last house was a model and the garage is where they put various materials so people could look at them so it had all kinds of lighting and the walls were textured and painted and it even had baseboards. But the baseboards were still installed above a 4" concrete lip.
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May 18, 2018 02:02
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QuarkJets posted:Would like to get more advice on appliance bargaining I did it at Best Buy for a $1000 digital camera but it was also 15 years ago, hope this helps.
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May 18, 2018 22:29
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enraged_camel posted:How do I decide whether I need home security? Are there calculators or guides? Quoting a security system post just because it reminded me: My last house had some kind of system that had wired (magnetic?) sensors on all the windows and doors, a couple motion sensors, some kind of brain with a million wires coming into it in the master closet, and the only other thing was a small wall box in the laundry room by the garage which had a (large) battery in it and two or three buttons, but I can't remember what the buttons even said. There was no keypad to put in a code or anything like that. This was a model home that I think was also the office when they were selling them. Built in 06. And I don't understand how it would have worked. Something with a monitoring system that automatically comes on during non business hours? Something where you just press on or off and relies on thieves not coming in through the laundry room?
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Jun 2, 2018 01:58
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H110Hawk posted:Telephone controlled. You dial some number to turn it on and off. I wondered if it could be something like that but it just seems like such a pain in the rear end even for a non-home.
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Jun 2, 2018 05:09
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SpartanIvy posted:I was just invited to and joined my areas Nextdoor group and It's pretty common for me to see stuff like this on my Nextdoor feed but it's almost entirely (somewhat) nearby neighborhoods rather than my own, so you might check and see where they're actually coming from as I think the default settings will give you updates from neighborhoods that aren't necessarily even that close to your own. Most of mine come from relatively low cost housing near the university that isn't really even that close to my house. A quick scan of my feed looks like about 50% lost pets, 30% crap for sale, 20% "someone broke into my car."
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Aug 12, 2018 16:42
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Everyone mostly posts about suspicious characters and crime in the area. Makes me think my area might be more dangerous than I thought when I bought my house. Is every neighborhood page like this?
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FCKGW posted:Nextdoor is good to dunk on your paranoid neighbors who refuse to answer doorbells and question why a solicitor would wear a hat if they weren’t actually a robber casing your house Holy poo poo I hadn't heard of this, thank you.
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Aug 12, 2018 16:46
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Anyone got any tips on getting rid of and preventing future creaks/squeaks/etc. I have done a bit of research and just watched this "Why is it happend and how to fix it" video and just wondered if anyone had any other experience or advice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC-sUmqgn6I We'll be getting rid of the carpet and putting in hardwood. The floor is supported by 2x4 trusses rather than conventional 2xWhatevers or those I beams. So the 4" being exposed should make it pretty easy to drill in and hit the joists compared to only having the 2" side exposed. We don't really have any squeaks but a fair amount of more "crack" type noise. Was planning on spot treating any currently noisy areas but maybe also putting in screws every 2' or something as a preventative measure since once the new floor goes in it likely won't ever be going anywhere.
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Oct 4, 2018 18:07
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Spot the problem
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Dec 20, 2018 23:20
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If so that's a bonus problem and not the one I was referring to.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:52
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bred posted:One's upside down. Bingo. Motronic posted:Oh wait....is there a missing upright 3 rows back? It's easier to see with a higher res pic, I didn't realize I posted the lower res one. I'll probably write up what's going on after I get another rum and coke.
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Dec 21, 2018 02:31
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So I tried to figure out how to approach this, typing up absolutely everything would take a long time and the situation is ongoing so it's not like there'd be an immediate happy (or sad) ending, so I'm not gonna. What I am gonna do is type up the stuff that could potentially (but not likely) be useful to other people and everyones general knowledge, and then ask a couple questions based off that stuff. And I'm gonna explain this like I'm explaining it to myself 3 months ago, so if it seems like I'm being condescending, I'm not, I'm just trying to explain all this to a moron (me). This is a truss. Some houses have trusses for floors:  Some houses have I-beam thingies and some houses have just solid wood board thingies. The I beams look like this:  The solid wood thingies can be anywhere from 2x6(?) to like 2x14 or maybe even more or even less but I'm not gonna post a picture because they just look like a big board. Back to the truss. Some are just a zig zag back and forth (top to bottom) so those wouldn't necessarily even have a top and a bottom, it wouldn't matter which way you put them in because they can be functionally symmetrical. That's called a Warren truss. There are other reasons they could still be upside down, but not for the same reasons as the "Fan style." Here's the Warren, for reference:  Compared to the more common (what I got) "Fan" style:  The fan style has a top and a bottom. It's pretty easy to figure out, because one side is supported at a lot more points than the other side, and being supported more frequently is good because no one wants the floor in their house to feel like a trampoline. Where I live, according to code, you have to have a support point at least every 26 inches to meet code. They call those support points "panel points." This means that you can't space these joists more than ~24" apart or they'll be out of code. But you probably don't want ones that are 24" apart because it probably means your builder is a giant cheapshit. You'd be better off with 16" or 19.2" (what mine are) which are common spacings. The tighter you space them, the longer you can go on an unsupported run, but it also depends on the depth (top to bottom dimension on the truss) and for the common residential depths (12" to 16") there really isn't much difference between 12 and 19.2" so you're probably not gonna find a lot of builders shelling out the dough for 12" OC spacing for a 14" deep truss just to get the extra 22" unsupported span ability. Like, they'll just make the house 22" smaller.  Trusses generally deflect more than an I beam. Even if they're perfectly in spec, you might notice that they're a little bouncier than the other floor joist types. That's the main negative, the main positive is that they're stronger than other floor joists so you can have longer unsupported spans underneath them. They're also awesome for routing HVAC because of all those huge openings, you don't have to cut a giant hole in them to run a heating duct through them like you do with an I-beam. That means if you've got three toilets, a urinal, a bidet, your water heater, and your furnace all right next to each other, you're not gonna lose floor strength just to run all those pipes through the giant holes you gotta cut in your I-beam plywood. Trusses also have a lot of different "end conditions." With I-beam joists they're the same their entire length so you can just hack them off wherever you want and it makes no difference. That's obviously not the case with trusses. They're engineered and constructed off site and trucked in and installed. But they do make them where the end is trimmable in case you really suck at making things the right length, by making the end an I beam rather than a truss, as seen here:  So this truss above is trimmable for length but not height. If you want to adjust the height, you have to gently caress with those two 2x4s that are below it (with the Xs). But you will note, the end of the joist is sitting directly on the top of the wall. The truss below is basically the opposite. It's not trimmable for length but is trimmable for height:  But probably the most relevant to my situation is this pic, which shows you can either have the bottom cord sitting on the supporting wall or you can have the top chord (which has to be extended by that little lip by ~4") sitting on the supporting wall.  Here's a chili mac recipe from J Loper Kenji Alt that I think you should consider adding to your reportoir:  SO, now that we're all experts on trusses, this is where it all comes together. Let's look at the picture from the previous post. As has been pointed out, one of them is upside down. This means that instead of the panel points being 19 or 20" apart, they've gone up to about 40" for that entire span. That is bad, and out of code. My understanding from talking to a guy that works at a (different) truss company is that the ultimate load holding MAY not be changed by that much. Maybe only 5%. It depends on other stuff that I don't know. But what definitely changes a lot is the flex of the top chord, because you just halved your support points. It doesn't take a brain genious to see that if you step in the middle of the 40" support its gonna flex a LOT more than the 20" support. And im gonna guess it isn't linear and instead of being 2x as much is more like 4x as much, but even though I took a structural engineering class I drank a lot so am an unreliable witness. But the REAL question comes here. The builder said that they used that "top chord bearing on stud wall" system which if you flipped it 180, wouldn't work. What woulda been level would be off by 4" or so if you flipped it 180. The interior where it attached to the wall would be in the right spot but the exterior (since it didn't have that notch out of it) would be many inches too high and noticeable to anyone. If they're telling the truth that would be true and any truss the ends on an exterior wall can't be upside down. Which means any of the trusses at my house that are hidden by drywall cannot be upside down. And now we come back to the original picture:  This isn't my house, it's my neighbors house. My house was built before this one. The green is the edge of the foundation. All the trusses are tied into this via a 2x14 that (maybe, I think?) is lag bolted to the concrete foundation and then the trusses are U-thingied into the 2x14. The red is a legit beam that spans between load bearing walls. It has those U-hanger things in it so you know those trusses start/stop there. The trusses to the left and right of it you're not sure about, because they could start/stop on that load bearing wall or they could cross it while being continuous. So the question is, does the red line meant that the yellow line isnt' a problem as long as the green line means that the frog was not part of the truss calcs and the thing is I'm gonna go to bed now.
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Dec 21, 2018 07:00
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Alright i just reread that and it seems like the last 7 or so paragraphs might be gibberish but I think if you reread them 4 or 5 times all will become clear.
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Dec 21, 2018 07:05
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I need to quit drinkin
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Dec 21, 2018 21:03
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Motronic posted:You just posted a lot of word vomit who's only response can be "what did your lawyer say about this?" My lawyer looked at it but he doesn’t know poo poo about floor joists I think I’m gonna have an engineer come look at it
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Dec 26, 2018 06:37
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Motronic posted:Your lawyer doesn't need to know anything about floor joists. Their job it to assemble the correct people to correct evidence and opinions so you can be made whole through civil proceedings or the threats thereof. That sounds like spending thousands of lawyer dollars when I don’t 100% for sure know I’ve got a problem. I do know 100% one of my neighbors has a problem, unless they somehow already noticed it and got it fixed, maybe I’ll start there. May also contact the other truss company I w already chatted with and see what they think.
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Jan 2, 2019 23:56
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It’s impossible to say for certain whether it’s unusual or excessive bounce/deflection. I think there might be but I’m also biased/paranoid at this point. Also one of the areas of concern is under tile which makes it totally impossible to tell I would say.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:14
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There's people coming to fix the one that I know is wrong, so I'm going to interrogate them some more. I also bought an endoscope type camera, gonna try and snake it in from the unfinished area and/or see if I can see anything through can light receptacles. If those don't work, a few 3/8" holes may be drilled in the sheetrock. The problem with the camera is going to be insulation being in the way and the camera will have to be in almost the exact right spot to really be able to tell whether it's upside down, but for $35 I figure it's worth a try and if it doesn't pan out I can use it for amateur colonoscopies.
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Jan 3, 2019 15:37
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