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KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
LG front loader owner and we've been fighting mildew since the day we got the damned thing despite following all the guidelines. We're moving this month and inheriting a Samsung front loader so it'll be interesting to see the difference. When we ran it during the inspection it leaked on the floor so not high hopes.

I did see one forums post from an owner that said replacing their braided steel supply hoses with rubber hoses solved their mildew issues, which is kinda interesting. I'm not super excited about trying that because that's a time bomb, but if the other LG owners have seen that I might.

HE top loaders are a thing and a nice compromise if I were buying new now.

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KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Big, industrial LED lights and motion sensors can kill wifi. Can't think of too much that's associated with police enforcement though.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Nitrousoxide posted:

I’ve been hearing some scampering in the ceiling and the other day I saw a field mouse on my first floor. I assume they are trying to set up shop in my walls. Is there a no kill trap I can use to capture them or should I just call a animal control company to take care of it?

I've used https://www.amazon.com/Authenzo-2018-Upgrade-Version-HumaneMouseTrap/dp/B07BMTWQCY/ or the many others like it and they work pretty well. Note it's pretty inhumane if you forget to check it every day :(

The bucket flip traps work really well for mass infestation and there's no mess like snap traps.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
You might try making your first offer your final and best. Everyone else is.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Tax-wise, depending on the size of the mortgage you will potentially have enough deductible interest in 2021 that when you combine it with your local tax bill it will make sense to itemize deductions rather than take the ~12k standard deduction. It likely won't change much for 2020. Your mortgage provider will send you a 1098 form outlining deductible interest if it's over $600, so then you just weigh itemized deductions vs. the standard to determine what's bigger.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Sirotan posted:

Also lol absolutely do not call your local cable provider to do it, I am having to patch a gigantic hole in my beautiful wood floors this week because the previous owner let (I assume) the Comcast installer just drill through the floor into the basement to pull coax into the living room vs doing it the right way.

I have one of these too, even though a wall box would have been dead simple. Stupid assholes.

Also a whole lot of cat5 for analog security cameras where the staples went through the cable. I have to test it all to see if it's still good for IP cams or if it needs to be re-pulled :sigh:

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
All my interior doors are solid and I like it a lot. Older houses are the best.

Door chat:


This is nearly 40 years old. There are two more outside in a courtyard that need restoration -- dry rot around the edges and the varnish is flaking away to nothing, but the center panels are in good shape. I really like them and want to preserve them. Any thoughts on who might be good to take on something like that without destroying them? I'm prepared to spend $$$$ on it unless new doors are $$$.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
I really would recommend against Hue bulbs at this point as someone who owns like... 15. The direct-attach wifi smart switches are far more cost efficient to scale out and a better product, because they keep the familiar light switch interface for guests. I'm using Decora Smart but Lutron is more common.

I'd also recommend against nest thermostats if you might want a central humidifier. Ecobees are just better in every way.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
The light strips are great for bias lighting and I have a few. The gradient light strip and hue sync box is cool, but imo not $500 cool. I also have a Signe shoved in a corner and about a dozen bulbs. The biggest problem I've found with the bulb route is exclusive voice control is really guest unfriendly as they have to learn your room names.

I also have some big rooms that need 5-6 light sources. Smart switches and $25 in LED bulbs is less expensive than 5-6 Hue bulbs, and there are high CRI LEDs out there that are better than anything Hue offers.

If you're starting now and looking at Hue bulbs rather than switches, maybe check out Wiz instead. Same company, same bulb range, 1/4 the price, wifi instead of zigbee so no bridge required.


Maggie Fletcher posted:

I would be happy with eco-friendly, power-saving bulbs that are controllable by my phone.

Yeah, smart switches have the same integrations with voice control and ability to use them off-net as Hue does.

I started down the smart switch path due to setting schedules. I've had this timer switch to control outside lights since 2011 and it's been great. I needed a second for the new place and realized the smart switches were cheaper and easier to install in crowded boxes.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad


I spent my afternoon vacuuming 30 years worth of dust out of my ADU's crawlspace so I could seal some things. My radon levels are borderline high but I'm hoping sealing the few penetrations in the slab will let me avoid an active system.



Vacuuming what looked like shallow indentations revealed four 1" round holes all the way through the slab that were stuffed with mostly wood shavings. I can see down to the gravel underneath. They're contained in maybe a 1' square. Is there a product that would be able to patch that without thermal expansion popping them out? Everything I'm reading talks about cutting out a bigger area, undercutting, concrete adhesive, and a bunch of other stuff that sounds unpleasant.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
I think the angle bracket attachment may be a problem. Rust lines running down the wall from the angle bracket or fasteners would kinda suck.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Mackieman posted:

Curb appeal is important, hence the plan to get the whole of the outside of the house (brick) painted

I may be in the minority here but painted brick is an instapass from me, taking a maintenance free material (other than repointing) and ruining it. Doesn’t apply if it’s already painted I guess.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

NomNomNom posted:

We went with a 36" stainless farmhouse style sink in our kitchen and it is glorious.

Nthing. Moved from several homes with double basin and this is way better, especially with a high pressure sprayer. The ability to put 13x9s and baking sheets flat in the bottom is great for scrubbing/soaking, and the dishwasher handles everything else.

Stainless steel is also >>>>> ceramic.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Inner Light posted:

Switching to light switch chat! My new place has a bunch of the standard wall toggle switches. I want to convert at least some to smart ones.

Most of the discussion on this is in https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963

I just installed a ton of the new gen, released in Mar '21, Leviton Decora Smart and love them. Since you likely have neutrals and it looks like you don't need wireless remotes, you have a ton of options.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
The "standard" aboveground tank is 275 gal. The filling port has a whistle system on the vent pipe so they can tell when it's full, so it's not super urgent that you figure it out. The delivery company will likely (certainly) want to inspect the tank before the first delivery.

Go completely based on price and customer service for oil delivery -- decouple it from furnace service. The best price in my area is through an energy co-op where you prebuy in the fall, so check those out! (not an endorsement) Even before the prebuy, the co-op offered a discount from rack rate.

KS fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 18, 2021

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Sundae posted:

Ahh, that makes sense. Thanks.

If my stash gets used up before I move out, I may bite the bullet and replace the sockets. For now, though, I have 10 of the bulbs in a box in the closet.

For what it's worth they make retrofit LEDs with this socket where you snip out the ballast and connect it directly if you don't want to replace the can.

I was renting and also had really good luck with these which actually run off the ballast. They warm up instantly.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Inner Light posted:

Since this light is not controlled with a single pole, I cannot use this switch? Is there any way to set it up on a smart switch?

If you want wifi, Leviton D26HD + DD00R-DLZ combo if you have a neutral+traveler. Most of the big players have equivalents.

Motronic posted:

I also 100% require that everything works manually with zero internet/home automation running just using switches manually.

I am really liking homekit for its local-only functionality without computer janitoring. It was a pleasant surprise.

KS fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jul 17, 2021

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
The DD00R is a wired remote that coordinates with the D26HD master when you have 3-way or more switches. It's lag free and incorporates the dimmer.

The traditional 3 way switch setup is a little tough to adapt to smart switches since they need continuous power, hence the need for distinct remote units.

I am cautiously happy with the ~25 Leviton Gen2 products I've installed so far. They've been reliable and look like normal decora switches. No experience with the Kasa, but it's for sure less expensive.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

spf3million posted:

But then tonight I realized that I didn't have many windows open and as I passed by the fireplace to open another window I felt the draft coming down the chimney and sure enough, a smoke-scented breeze was being pulled down the stack right into my living room. Opening a few more windows cleared it right up.

This got me too. My house is ridiculously tight to the point that I'm having CO2 issues. If the windows are closed and someone turns on exhaust fans, the chimney definitely becomes the intake. I even had the chimney swept before I realized what the issue was. I'm quoting ERVs now.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
And in that vein, everything smart is decora so if you're looking for consistency, that's it for switches.

Not sure I'd care about decora outlets though.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

redreader posted:

We've got a dry-rear end house in Denver with a basement, ground and 2nd floor. We have furnace/ac/blower in basement that goes to ground floor too, and also a furnace/ac/blower in the attic for the 2nd floor. I got an hvac guy over yesterday to install a humidifier in the basement. When he started work he brought out a hand humidity meter and it showed 20something %. I think it was 25% or so. He installed the humidifier and said that the furnace blower will blow the humid air all over the basement and ground floor levels, and that since we had our upper story stuff in the attic he couldn't put one in there (another hvac person said the same thing) but that we could expect to get up to 45% or so, and to use portable ones upstairs and also run the blower all the time upstairs to spread the air everywhere, so we're doing that. We have a big portable unit in our bedroom upstairs running 24/7, and since yesterday afternoon the downstairs humidifier has been running non-stop with the blower running non-stop too.

My question/issue is, when he installed it there was a humidistat installed too as part of it, where I could dial it up or down and it it also shows current humidity. He set it to 50%. When he showed it to me, the humidistat read that the current humidity is 37%. I checked it before bed and it was 37%. I checked it this morning and it's 37%.

He said 'all of the stuff in your house will absorb moisture at first' and 'it'll take a while to start having an effect' but surely 16 hours or so would have showed a 1% difference?
edit: lol the house is over 4000 square feet, so I could see 'yeah it will take a day for humidity to go up 1%' being a thing.

Hey I’m late on this but 50% is quite high for winter. Dial it back ahead of any cold snaps. Dial it back if you see any condensation on your windows.

Do you know if it’s evaporative or steam?

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Jesus Christ. Goons shouldn’t be allowed to own houses.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Airthings wave sensors do co2 plus radon plus temp/humidity. They’re extremely accurate and $130ish on eBay.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Involuntary Sparkle posted:

And we have started installing Nest CO/smoke detectors.

Can you uninstall them?

These things suck. Be sure if you’re doing it you do every alarm because they don’t interconnect with other smoke alarms.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
I have 30+ of the Gen 2 Decora Smart switches and I can’t recommend them. The physical switches actually crash. It’s mind blowing. I should post a video.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Omne posted:

So you'd recommend the Lutron Caseta's over the Leviton's? I'm hesitant on the Leviton's because the gen 1's broke in most of the homes here and I'm not sure I trust them.

Then again, the look of the Caseta's is different than what I'm used to and would require switching everything out, and I'd prefer true three-way switches vs. the wall remote option

I would absolutely recommend the Casetas and wish I'd gone with the standard instead of going for the new product. I will probably rip and replace at some point.

The Leviton wired remote feature is indeed nice (controls are instant) and I have 80000 3- and 4-way switches, but it's not worth it. If you lose internet connection but keep wifi up they will never reconnect without a power cycle. That's after most of a year of software updates.

Here's the crashing issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUZDHsGUSuQ

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Residency Evil posted:

Is there anything special about this valve:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Bronze-FIP-Pressure-Vacuum-Breaker-4A504A2F/307723093

That would prevent me from installing it myself? It looks like a portion of mine is cracked (presumably since the water wasn't turned off to our sprinkler system last year in time). Looks like I just need the valve and some teflon tape?

edit:

Dumb question, but how do I get it on? Looks like it's pretty tight against the house.

Late but they sell the guts to this in a repair kit, which is likely all that needs to be replaced. You take off the two screws on top, fish out the shattered plastic bits, and install the new one. Takes 3 minutes if that's what's wrong.

The valve is $$$ and the repair kit is far less.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Normal and required once per year.

https://www.consumerfinance.gov/rules-policy/regulations/1024/17/#e-1-ii

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Pollyanna posted:

Yes but consider: gently caress hauling a ladder up the stairs. :v:

Anyway I’m from Florida, attics and basements are enigmas to me.

Basements keep your garage clear for cars and are an excellent thing.

Consider hauling a ladder up the stairs, because it's tough to insulate an attic hatch with a ladder attached, and it's a big source of heat loss. Ladders aren't heavy.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Thwomp posted:

Homeowner gripe: I'm so sick of tool companies discontinuing cordless tool lines.

Every one of these batteries will have no-name replacements available online. Batteries + Bulbs will also swap the cells for you if you bring them a battery pack. I am still rocking a bunch of dewalt tools that started as 18v nicad. Just replaced the cells in my 10 year old mower.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Agreeing with the color changing bulbs. High CRI LED fixtures that dim well will be far more impactful to a space than RGB. Putting the smart control at the switch allows you to install bulbs that are far brighter and provide better quality light vs. Hue. Switches in logical places are a requirement when you have company, as well.

Moving away from Hue has been one of my favorite parts of being a homeowner.

Going to shill for:
RAB Lighting for reasonably priced, extreme quality recessed lighting plus US based tech support and ridiculously good warranties. Love this company.
Satco or 90+ Lighting for bulbs.
Kichler, Minka Lavery, or Visual Comfort for cool fixtures with dimmable integrated LEDs (but the sky's the limit here)
Lutron RadioRA3 or Caseta for smart switches. Seriously, don't go with anyone else here.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Zarin posted:

Just to confirm, these are all for homeowners and not renters, yeah?

I've replaced some isolated switches in rentals, but yeah, in general that was for homeowners who are aiming to replace fixtures and control with smart switches. Smart bulbs are pretty nice if you can't do that.

Switches can be more economical, too. If you have 6 downlights, 1 smart dimmer and 6 top-of-the-line pucks are cheaper than 6 Hue bulbs.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

The Oldest Man posted:

This seems totally untrue since from what I've read very standard air-source heat pumps should be fine at any of the temperatures we regularly experience in this area for both heating and cooling as long as the capacity is right for the space and with some resistive electric space heating there shouldn't be a need for a gas backup.

Mitsubishi hyper heat units are 100% efficient down to 0 and are becoming ubiquitous in New England. No strips, no gas backup. They sell ducted models for retrofits. I don't think I'd install anything else.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Oh, yeah, I've seen that on an Electrolux and I've heard it's common on Frigidaires. A refrigerant line inside is too close to the metal, making the metal cold, leading to condensation, leading to rust. It's a stupid design flaw. You may want to wire brush it down and paint it. Even better if you open it up and look to see if you can insulate it.

It's likely unrelated to the water line.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Comfortador posted:

hahah you know the sad thing? I consciously was trying to prevent me from using this year and still loving did it. Unfortunately it's from 2020, so that would probably put it out from warranty.

Many credit cards add a year of warranty. This would be a claim through the CC rather than the manufacturer, but worth looking.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

vs Dinosaurs posted:

Is it crazy to look at installing a ducted heating/cooling system in my 1000 sq ft single-story house? I was getting bids of around $8k to install a single head ductless unit in the PNW, and I am not confident that a single unit will help with the bedrooms which are down a hall from the living room which would hold the duct. The house currently only has baseboard electric heaters.

Unless you have an unfinished basement to run duct (and maybe even then) you almost certainly want to go with a multi-zone mini split system -- that is multiple indoor cassettes that run to a single outdoor compressor. You can size the indoor cassettes for each room, so a 30k BTU outdoor unit can have 6K + 6K in the bedrooms and 18k in a larger living space. They're pretty badass for comfort.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

vs Dinosaurs posted:

First updated quote for a three zone system came in at $13.5K - I swear these companies do not want customers.

That's probably $5k in equipment (src but note this is the cadillac model) so I don't find it amazingly unreasonable. But of course shop around.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
By contrast I was able to give the PO# off of a sticker on 20 year old windows to the window manufacturer and they shipped me all new screens for not a bunch of money.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
I love my steam humidifier. Installed it last year at the start of winter. It was an excellent upgrade that's set and forget with an Ecobee with frost control mode. It makes the house more comfortable, protects the woodwork, and humidity makes a given temp feel warmer.

However, it straight up uses $100+ of power a month at new rates. Just a heads up. It's like running an AC through the winter.

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KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Mr. Crow posted:

Care to share how much it cost?

I had it bundled up with an ERV and a bunch of ductwork so hard to say, but if that includes electrical and plumbing, $2800 is not out of line. The unit itself is $900.

I guess I'd ask about the controls. Does it include replacing your thermostat with something that can control it?

Mine's carrier branded but it's exactly the same unit and it's fantastic. Well worth the cost (both initial and power).

Mr. Crow posted:

Whats the maintenance on these things just replace a filter seasonally?

$100 canister that needs replacing every year or so depending on water hardness. $25 electrode every few years.

KS fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Nov 22, 2022

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