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Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy
I know how to make a 3D printable ITX case that's smaller than any design on the market, including the Dan A4 and everything else, I just can't model in CAD to save my life.

Long story short:

- ITX motherboard
- M.2 hard drive
- ITX-size GPU like the GTX 970 (I'm sure the 1070 will come out eventually in the same form factor): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121912

- HDPlex Pico PSU, 250w with 400w peak: http://www.amazon.com/HDPLEX-Hi-Fi-DC-ATX-Supply-16V-24V/dp/B00J3X7RU6

- LiHeat shielded Gen 3.0 PCIe compliant riser-ribbon cable: http://www.highflow.nl/hardware/videokaarten/li-heat-pci-e-gen-3.0-ribbon-flexible-riser-cable-black.html

- 330w laptop brick, you can get them on eBay as they used to sell them for big fuckoff gaming laptops

You use the riser card to put the GPU on the backside of the motherboard, so both the GPU fan and CPU fan are pointing to the outside of the case.

I actually own all of the parts listed above too. The whole thing works like a charm and I could cram it into a super small case, I even have a 3D printer with the build volume to do it. I just can't model for poo poo.

All it would take is a 3D print model like this...: http://www.overclock.net/t/1566316/super-small-3d-printed-mini-itx-case

... but deeper and with a divider in the middle. The motherboard mounts to one side and the graphics card is bolted/clamped in place with something on the other side, with the PCI ribbon tucked under it.

If anyone is a really good modeler, I'd pay you a hundo to design it to my specs then open-source it to the world.

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Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
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VulgarandStupid posted:

Zero, would you mind writing a little blurb about picoPSUs for this thread? I know you've discussed them before and I probably just know the basics. I would be happy to add it to the OP.

A picoPSU is just a a made up term for an ATX-compliant DC to DC converter. You use it in conjunction with a laptop power supply. There's two classes of picoPSUs;

1) the kind that range from 80-160 watts, which are meant to power a PC with just a CPU, and run $20-50 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-picoPSU-80-Output-Input-Supply/dp/B005TWE5E6

2) the high-grade models such as the HDPlex 250w, which will power an energy efficient CPU/GPU combo, such as a Skylake CPU and a 14/16nm process GPU like the GTX 1070 (TDP of 150w) http://www.amazon.com/HDPLEX-Hi-Fi-DC-ATX-Supply-16V-24V/dp/B00J3X7RU6

The HDPlex is the only picoPSU I've personally used and the only one I recommend. The guy who makes them uses top-shelf components and gives great support. I've worked with him mailing prototype PSUs back and forth with him to help minimize the coil whine on the PSU.

HalloKitty posted:

Not personally fond of the huge, questionable quality laptop brick idea. I also wonder of the validity of a claim of being smaller, but ignoring the PSU. (see Xbox 360 vs PS3).

Eletriarnation posted:

Yeah, hopefully the DC-DC PSU would keep voltages in line but I am wondering how a 330W passively cooled laptop brick is expected to not be a fire hazard for extended gaming sessions.

There are power supplies on the horizon, and indeed, on store shelves today, such as the Zolt (https://www.gozolt.com/) which utilize Wide Bandgap technology to greatly increase the energy density and slightly increase the energy efficiency of AC and DC switching and conversions.

In other words, you're going to start to see some much smaller and slightly cooler laptop bricks real soon.

Besides, even with a full size laptop brick, you can have it down on the floor near the power strip or wall outlet. Out of sight, out of mind. It's kinda spergy to say "Well actually the case is much bigger if you count that!". Do we count the volume of the power cord too?

But, if it makes you feel any better, I've used said 330w brick, and I've since even gone down to a Dell 240w brick, and they are fine in all normal conditions and do not overheat. Laptop bricks are rated pretty conservatively, as people use them in less ideal scenarios, such as on a bed resting on the blanket, where half the brick is insulated.

VulgarandStupid posted:

I think people avoid 3D printed because the materials used are much weaker than steel or aluminum, meaning you need thicker walls and those insulate heat. It probably also doesn't feel like a nice material, which some people care about but isn't a big deal to me.

ABS plastic is strong as gently caress for what it is, especially when it's shaped like a box. Anyone who's stepped on a LEGO barefoot understands this. With the CPU and GPU fans both directly faced up against perforated case walls, there's going to be no real difference in temps. The fans and passive air convection are doing the vast majority of the cooling versus the metal of a PC case. But really, an MITX sized ABS box with thin walls and 100% infill, you wouldn't be able to break it without taking a hammer into it or spiking it into the ground.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jun 9, 2016

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy
I'd also add that the HDPlex 250w picoPSU is the only way to go if you're looking to create your own VR gaming backpack form factor (you know, those things that HP, MSI, and Asus, and Zotac are all trying to sell at exorbitant prices right now http://www.theverge.com/2016/6/7/11874762/vr-backpack-pc-hands-on-computex) as it can take the DC directly from a laptop battery back and make it available to as ATX-compliant power.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
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Paul MaudDib posted:

Pretty much covers it IMO. I wasn't aware of the HDPlex but that's cool, so thanks for sharing there.

Any practical information on how to use laptop batteries as a portable power supply? Is there a controller for it or something?

Laptop batteries all have a "BMS" (Batter Management System) circuit board built in to them, that will turn them off if they charge too high or low, overheat, or draw too many amps. If you have for example two Dell battery packs that normally output 11v, you could wire them together in series for 22v, and then run some test leads from the positive and negative pinouts of the batteries to the input on the HDPlex.

If you want something that works right out of the box, you could drop $175-ish on something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282060749536

That is a battery for electric bikes. Note that I picked lithium Ion cells instead of the heavier lithium iron phosphate. It is about 7 pounds and includes a charger. That pack is 24v 10ah, so in other words it could sustain something like 240 watts for an hour straight, though in practice you'd get less due to Peukert's law https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peukert%27s_law

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
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HalloKitty posted:

A power brick would have to sit near the case (then, in that case, why not in it).

Because then the case would need to vent the heat, with either the PSU's fans or with the case's fans for a passively cooled PSU.

By splitting the heat between the AC-DC conversion of the laptop brick and the DC-DC of a picoPSU, they can both be run passively.

A laptop brick already has it's own sealed and durable housing, so you could fit the case into a smaller sack and pocket the brick as well if travelling, and you don't need to use the laptop brick in a battery pack backpack scenario.

It's also pretty clever because an HDplex has great components to keep the power delivery solid, while laptop bricks are dirt cheap on Amazon/EBay due to economy of scale.

I'm sure there's plenty of use cases for keeping an all-in-one PSU, it's just aggravating to me to see people shooting down utility in favor of aesthetics. People bring up the giant, fan-cooled Xbox 360 / Xbone power supplies which isn't a fair comparison when this is more like the GameCube; it had a decent size external brick but all anyone remembers is the cute form factor.

Lastly, like I said, laptop bricks are about to become tiny, like the tiny 65w charger I showed that is up for sale. You could build recessed outlets with a door into your desk if you're so determined to hide it, or jam that into your case I suppose.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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This poo poo has been vaporware for years but I've had my eye on their webpage and it looks like we might finally see some of these spinning-heatsink coolers:

https://www.facebook.com/CoolchipTechnologies

CoolChip Technologies posted:

Check it out! Low Profile Kinetic Cooler for locked Skylake (70W TDP). Can't share details, but COMING SOON! :-)



Those are going to have serious implications for SFF and low-profile cooling. Allegedly they can cool much more quietly and in a smaller package than current coolers. Looking forward to reviews when they finally hit.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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VulgarandStupid posted:

Do these have to be situated face up?

No, they'll work at any angle. They spin up and glide on super small barrier of air, like the needle on a hard drive, and like a hard drive they can work in any orientation, though moving it around while running might not be the best idea.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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MrMoo posted:

Standard fair for the DAN A4-SFX appears to be something like this: (plus $279.39 for the case)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($234.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card ($724.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1875.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-01 17:06 EDT-0400

The memory speeds always a look a bit bogus above DDR4-2133 for making any difference ($139.99), and for today the Intel Core i5-6600K ($238.99) hits the good enough category. The motherboard depends on whether you want USB 3.1, everything else looks a bit moot, there does not appear to be any mini-ITX Thunderbolt boards yet. I'm not saying anything about the GPU :homebrew: See how this changes in the next 6 months when the cases ship.

NewEgg sells the ASRock Z170 ITX for $130, there's no need to spend $235 on the Asus: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381428803102

The only thing is it missing is the M.2 slot and if you have to have that, the "Gaming" version of the ASRock has it and it's still cheaper.

I got two of the ASRock Z170 for work and use the ASRock Z170 Gaming at home and they all work great.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Salted_Pork posted:

I recently built:

Case: Thermaltake Core v1
CPU: Intel i5 6600k
GPU: Asus GTX 970 DCMOC
MOBO: Gigebyte Z170N-Wifi
RAM: 16G Kit (8Gx2) 3200Hz Corsair Vengeance LPX
2*120 Gb SSD Windows 10 on one, Ubuntu 14.04 on the other
Case: Thermaltake Core v1

And I'm pretty happy with it, but what I've noticed is that the huge fan at the front of the case give me a massive reservoir of cool air between the front of the case and the cpu cooler, but the air behind the cpu cooler is kind of still. My mobo only supports 2 fans (1 cpu, and 1 case), but is there some other way to power two 80 mm fans at the back of the case, to get better air flow?

I have the same case and I really don't think you need more fans. Hell, I have the front fan turned off and a big fuckoff passive cooler on a 6700k and it's not throttling.

You could switch the panels around so the noon-GPU side is covered and the air can only leave the back and top maybe? Still, what are your actual temps and overclock that you feel you need more air flow?

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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sirbeefalot posted:

I'd like to price out a super slim, low power requirement office PC, but have no clue where to start with a case. This would be an internet/Office/very light multimedia consumption device, so I think integrated graphics will be more than enough; a single decent SSD, ~8GB RAM, and not much else would be required. What are some recommended super slim/small cases that would allow for a nice quiet build with the bare minimum components?

e; Almost forgot, good filtration is a huge plus. It's not going to be in our dusty shop, but that poo poo gets everywhere regardless.

You can get a Windows 10 PC that is 100% passive/fanless and runs at 5-10 watts for $99:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883722001

They are not the fastest things in the world, they are Skylake Atom processors, but we use them at our work to run digital dashboards from Chrome, show leaderboards in Excel, and some light web browsing work. As long as you understand the limitations of the 2gb RAM and 32gb flash they include, they're pretty spectacular for the price. There's a $170 model that has double the ram and flash, but it doesn't include Windows at all so you'd have to supply it yourself or run Linux.

They also make a great home PC for watching VLC and doing general media center stuff, since the Skylake chip is good enough to decode 4K HEVC.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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snuff posted:

I also considered the thermaltake core v1, but the dealbreaker was no filtered intake and the limited GPU length, it couldn't fit my previous GPU. The monitor is a Dell u2515h, with a Dell soundbar. The soundbar is decent but has some very low static buzz but I don't really notice it anymore, but then again I'm very sensitive to noise. The soundbar has headphone and mic jacks.

The Core V1 does have filtered intake though, it has a gigantic foam filter for the 200mm fan.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:

Perfect, thank you! The RMx comes with a 10 year warranty too, which is perfect because I don't trust this guy to replace it at 5. I also swapped the RAM for something with more clearance and a lower price (yay cost fluctuations). But now suddenly the Cryorig H7 is out of stock everywhere... :smithicide:

Any recommendations for an alternative air cooler? The 212 Evo seems like it might be a little big and heavy, but according to PCP it fits.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($165.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($399.99)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit ($132.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.7 CFM 140mm Fan ($15.20 @ Amazon)
Total: $1351.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-30 16:38 EDT-0400

That cooler is plenty for Skylake if you can't find the Cryorig, but they both have paste preapplied so you don't need that garbage Arctic paste. If you're going to get paste at least get something decent like Noctua NT-H1 which should be the same price but better performing.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:

Any thoughts on Lian Li cases? They didn't get mentioned in the OP so I was wondering what the general take is on them; I'm looking at the LIAN LI PC-Q10WX. It's a step up in price, but not as big as those custom Kickstarter cases so it might be a good middle ground for me, and if they're built to last it might be worth it if I end up re-using it for a new build in 5 years

They are designed for boutique form-factor over functionality... a lot of them have very bad airflow design especially for the GPU, and they don't keep dust out either. They're all made of aluminum which is nice if you get a model with the carrying handle for a super light package.

I checked them out in person at Microcenter before but stuck with my tried and true Core V1

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Col.Kiwi posted:

Common thermal pastes are within 2-3 degrees of each other. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-18.html

Some people dislike AS5 because it's especially thick and can be a bit fussier to work with. Getting whatever is cheap is fine in general though. Using the stuff that comes with a cooler is also perfectly fine and is what would usually be done for a brand new build.

The Noctua I mentioned is the same $6 a tube as the AS5, it performs a few degrees better, you get more applications from a tube, and most importantly it is non-conductive so if you get a little somewhere it won't fry anything.

CharlieFoxtrot posted:

Thanks for this. Hmm, now I am looking at the Core V1 more closely. I am also starting to become enamored with the idea of getting one of those tower coolers...

The Core V1 is by far the easiest ITX case to build in because 5 of the 6 sides pop off it.

You really don't need a big fuckoff cooler though, overclocked Skylake at most is going to put out around 100 watts, which a smaller sized cooler will disperse. Hell, in my Core V1 I use this completely passive cooler on an overclocked 6700k, and the front fan in the Core V1 keeps the whole thing frosty: https://www.amazon.com/NoFan-CR-80EH-IcePipe-Fanless-Cooler/dp/B00HW2O2L2

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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I think there's only one cubed ITX case smaller than the Core V1 that takes a full PSU, and that'd be the Coolermaster Elite 110, but that's a very bad case in comparison both for airflow and ease of building.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Mung Dynasty posted:

SFFs are my new obsession.

Has anyone tried the Thermaltake Engine 27 yet?

That is Sandia / Coolchip's revolutionary new design which has finally been produced, but that is the 70w TDP version. I believe they still have a larger version in the works. I'd love to see if these meet their decibel claims.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Shanghaied posted:

IIRC CoolChip initially teamed up Cooler Master for the production version, but that deal appears to have fallen through. The Thermaltake version still has no MRRP, and no one seems to have gotten their hands on a prototype for testing, even though it has been "launched". I don't doubt that the technology works, but I do wonder about the feasibility of manufacturing the thing at a consumer-friendly price, since as far as I know the heat transfer between the base and the metallic fan relies on very intricate and precise machining, as well as high quality bearings.

I think you might be overestimating the machining. There need to be good tolerances, but once the thing spins up, it's riding on a layer of air like the needle on a hard drive. Hard drives have to have super-tight tolerances but they can still be stamped out for dirt cheap once the tooling is there.


Yeah, I just bought one, I'll be the guinea pig and report back.

Edit: If you look really carefully at the pictures of it, there's a couple clips on the fins of the center heatsink, like you'd clip weights to a car wheel rim to balance it. I guess that helps them make up for a lack of precision.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Nov 1, 2016

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Moey posted:

Never knew that. So there are zero reviews for that specific HSF.

Because no one has received one yet. I think I was like the first person on the planet to purchase it and it hasn't shipped yet (given the lag time I'm thinking they're having it drop shipped to me from Thermaltake who doesn't have stock ready).

Edit: Yesterday they only offered slow-shipping from 3rd party, today it is Amazon Prime and they offer 1-day shipping, so I canceled the 3rd party order and placed it again with 1-day shipping.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Nov 2, 2016

Zero VGS
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Mung Dynasty posted:

Looking forward to your impressions. I'm gonna be choosing between this and a Cryorig C7 and I'd prefer the Thermaltake over the C7 if it works well enough.

Son of a bitch, now they changed my one-day shipping order to "expected to ship Nov 7th" with one-day shipping. Just call it a preorder if you don't physically have them yet, for fucks sake.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Moey posted:

That sucks. I'm guessing Amazon will refund your shipping upgrade though.

I mean, I've been stalking the Coolchip page for like the 3 years since they announced the product, I can wait another week I guess.

I'm pretty pumped though because if these perform well enough the design might end up completely replacing all other heatsinks, including other appliances like air conditioners, gaming consoles, power supplies etc.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Just got my Thermaltake Engine 27; the build quality is super-solid. At default RPM I can only hear it holding it right up to my ear, and at full RPM I can't hear if if it is put inside the case. I don't have any way to test temps yet but if it performs as promised then it'll obsolete all other coolers in the 70 TDP and below range.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Why not Plastidip spray? You can just peel it off if you mess anything up.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Is there like... still no Mini-ITX motherboard with thunderbolt?

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Wistful of Dollars posted:

Question out of actual curiousness and not snark; what are you using TB for? Monitor?

I hear of it so rarely these days I'm unironically curious to learn more.

I have my PC in my bedroom and in my living room I have an Oculus Rift set up for roomscale. HDMI is sensitive to being extended over long distance, all the cables I'm trying are artifacting, dropping audio, not working at all, while short cables are fine.

So, Corning sells an optical Thunderbolt cable which is super thin and durable (you can tie it in a tight knot or step on it and it doesn't care). I wanted to see about sending either my graphics card DisplayPort output over that Thunderbolt cable, or failing that, using a proper Thunderbolt dock in the living room.

Zero VGS
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Maxwell Adams posted:

Is that PCIe riser actually mirror-flipping the connection, or is the motherboard built with a weird upside down connector? Either way, I'd love a case like this with a transparent top. Then put VESA mounting points on the back and get a multi-monitor VESA arm for your desk. Float that case right up there next to your monitor.

I would bet the motherboard has the CPU mounted "on the opposite side" to achieve that, essentially.


It says it uses a flex ATX power supply, essentially a 1U Server PSU, so it is AC.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
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Oh, also, I should mention, I did buy one of these cases:

http://nfc-systems.com/s4-mini/







They already exist in the wild (I've seen people selling used ones on eBay) so I pre-ordered one of next month's batch. It uses the 250w HDPlex DC-DC PSU to power it. I'm considering jamming a whole bunch of 18650 lithium ion cells into it to make it battery powered for backpack VR.

Edit: Other notes, the guy making them is cool, and they fit the Gigabyte GTX 1070 ITX among other cards.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Dec 12, 2016

Zero VGS
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Yes, the HDPlex 250w is rated for 400w peak. The 1070 is 150w tdp and my Skylake i7 is 90 but it never goes above 55w in real world use. I got the HDPlex to run an R9 290 with a Pentium Anniversary CPU so I'm sure this would be even easier on it.

Zero VGS
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Col.Kiwi posted:

In the review it says it actually is an interchangable socketed processor, you can even buy it barebones with no CPU included. Or the cpu options are normal stuff up to i7-6700 as an option. I'd rather see a similar case that lets you install your own ITX mobo but that thing looks pretty cool nonetheless.

Oh, I see, the catch is that you have to buy it with a GPU included (like the GTX 1060), and the GPU is actually an MXM board with a traditional fan cooler attached so that it looks like a normal graphics card when it's not. That's how they have it facing up without an elaborate riser. So, don't count on really upgrading the GPU later on, MXMs are still hard to get.

For the $600, which is a barebones case, MXM 1060, PSU and motherboard, I think you'd be better rolling an NFC like me:

$200-ish NFC S4 Mini with riser and power button
$100 nice Z170 Mobo
$85 HDPlex
$35 Dell 250w brick
$200 GTX 1060 ITX

$620, so about the same price for a more solid case and full GPU/Motherboard upgradability.

Maxwell Adams posted:

Has anyone tried making a case like this, but with another chamber on top for a 240mm radiator?

No offense but you should give up on 240mm radiators... I mean TDPs these days are very low and only getting lower; my current ITX VR rig is just about 100% passive (passive cooler on the CPU and GPU, each with a 140mmx15mm fan fixed at the lowest RPM setting). One more die shrink and even overclocked stuff will be inaudible on air cooling.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Dec 12, 2016

Zero VGS
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:

I just watched that S4 video and while I like it, I don't think a "complete solution" includes velcroing items to the chassis or using duct tape to cover electrical components.

Velcroing solid state drives is a time honored tradition that has always worked fine, so I can't fault the guy for not creating mount points specifically for the HDPlex which not everyone will even use, plus there's different places you might want to mount it depending on your motherboard.

The guy also says that you don't have to tape the backside of the GPU, just that it's a good idea if you're putting hard drives above it (let's be honest, these days you're gonna get an M.2 drive to reduce cabling and bling out performance anyway). Plus, he's suggesting gaffer's tape, not duct tape, which is much less likely to leave residue.You could cut a square of plastic to shield it (like the Dan A4 uses) or just have a GPU with a backplate (like the MSI Mini-ITX cards do).

I went with him because frankly I've been trying to design a 3D printed Mini ITX case in a similar form factor for a while now, and I recognize when someone is putting a lot of thought into the details. Remember it is smaller and more niche than the Dan A4 while being at least $100 less.

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Lungboy posted:

They called it Metis? Oh dear. I guess outside of SA the name doesn't mean as much.

The smiley doesn't seem to exist anymore... even SA has forgotten...

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VulgarandStupid posted:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/10947/zotac-announces-geforce-gtx-1080-for-miniitx-pcs

Well hopefully this is awesome. I kind of want to jam this into an S4 Mini.

That is hot, it even has a backplate so you wouldn't need the insulating tape that someone here took exception to. I might snag that for my S4 mini whenever I get it, assuming AMD doesn't geta 490 out by then.

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big time bisexual posted:

Speaking of unique features, the new crop of Z270 boards finally brought out a mini-ITX board with Thunderbolt 3: the unfortunately Fatal1ty branded ASRock Z270 Gaming-ITX/ac. Gigabyte's previous GA-Z170N Gaming 5 also had Alpine Ridge on board but they never had it certified for use with Thunderbolt for some reason, just USB 3.1 Gen 2.

I got confused by it before, but Fatality in the case refers to a low latency mouse port, not the lovely brand of NIC (killer). The board is a slam dunk.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jan 5, 2017

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Maxwell Adams posted:

It's there in case you want to use your laptop accessories with your desktop.

Thunderbolt 2 already has optical cables by Corning which are light and super durable and can go hundreds of feet. Presumably there will be optical cables for Thunderbolt 3 USB-C, and some docks. That can be a total game changer for desktops because you can build a loud and huge form factor PC to save costs, chuck in down in your cold basement, and run a single thin cable up to your room. Now as far as you're concerned, you have a silent and small form factor dock in your room that serves as your PC.

Thunderbolt optical can also let you ditch bulky cables for VR:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdNQE-GAq1o

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Platystemon posted:

The better the heat sink, the slower you can run the fans.

He means why are there heatsinks on the motherboards themselves... to which the answer is no reason really... nothing on the chipsets these days gets hot enough to require heatsinks that size, it's more informed by marketing than by practicality. It's like giant heatspreaders on normal desktop ram sticks, most leet-gaming dummies are impressed by seeing them.

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NihilCredo posted:

Oh neat, Thermaltake finally scrounged up $500 for a logo that wasn't made in MS Word '97. Next time I buy a case from them I might not have to rip off the brand anymore.

The original logo is like my favorite logo :(

I still don't get why people are ripping it off the front of the Core V1, it's a cool buzzsaw for crying out loud.

I own the Engine 27 and I'd doubt the 37 is going to raise the TDP rating all that substantially but I guess we'll see. They've been taking a real lazy way out on how the original Sandia design was supposed to work. It doesn't use an air bearing, just a normal motors with a not-so-thin gap. The 37 at a minimum could have been made a little wider, it's nowhere near the RAM or anything yet.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jan 8, 2017

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NihilCredo posted:

The buzzsaw isn't irredeemably bad. The godawful, off-centre, cheapskate Arial Italic lettering in the middle of it is.



If you like those proportions, colours and composition, you have objectively bad taste and I will challenge you to a mechanical keyboard swashbuckling duel over it.

I'm referring to this where it is centered and looks cool:

Zero VGS
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What do we even need dual M.2 for again? Samguns 960s are out in 1 and 2 TB which is plenty, Raid 0 is not going to made a perceivable speed difference whatsoever, Raid 1 is kind of pointless because these drives don't exactly fail on a regular basis, I dunno.

Zero VGS
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Platystemon posted:

Buy and install a drive you can afford now.

In a couple years, when $∕bit plummets, install another drive in the second slot.

Or clone the original drive on to the new drive and sell the old drive... I guess two slots is better than one but it hardly seems like a killer feature.

edit: by the way, I have a m.2 960 Evo 1TB, it is really loving good and comes with Watch___Doge2

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jan 10, 2017

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Krailor posted:

Looks like Asrock is coming out with a micro-STX system that includes a MXM port for external graphics.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/11052/asrock-shows-deskmini-gtxrx-using-microstx-motherboard-with-mxm-support

This should be a nice candidate for a full coverage waterblock covering both the CPU and video card.

This should heave been a thing years ago so we could maybe have affordable MXM cards today.

The best value MXM I can find is $1015 bucks for a GTX 1070, sheesh: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NVIDIA-GTX-1070-N17E-G2-8GB-DDR5-MXM-3-0-Module-150W-For-Clevo-P870DM-/112144267554

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Zero VGS
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I wonder if the GPU and CPU sit at roughly the same height. It'd be badass if someone made a low profile cooling fan (or a Thermaltake Engine) with a vapor chamber that could lay across both of them at the same time.

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