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Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
My friend says that 100% of players at the table that have backpacks are pros. In my experience, story checks out. I might have to expand that to fanny packs as well.

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Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
I agree with the others; unless you really know the other player, it's hard to make an argument for doing anything other than shoving there. The vast majority of the time you're good, you can get called by worse hands, and your hand is vulnerable to a lot of turns.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
I agree again. Seems like check raise is a pretty standard play. If it checks around, bet out on most, if not all, turns.

If the players behind you are super nitty and will never bet anything, then you should probably bet out here, but that's rare. On the other hand, if there are players behind you that will bet most of the time when checked to if they have overcards, then you absolutely have to check to induce.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Yeah, don't lose any sleep over it. You played it fine, and it's incredibly rare that you'd be beat.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Check with the intention of check-calling most action unless something really weird happens.

This the standard play, and you shouldn't deviate from it unless you know your opponents are playing in an incredibly strange manner and can justify a more profitable line. But again, it'd have to be a really abnormal situation for leading here to make sense.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
A decent amount of the time, the PFR is going to continuation bet here with a worse hand. We want to get value from that hand, instead of giving away the strength of our hand and giving them an easy out with worse.

We're really not that afraid of turns and rivers here. There aren't many draws, and the only overcards that are bad for us are kings and aces, which show up relatively rarely, and hit our opponents' hands even more rarely.

Our hand has showdown value, so we're not really going to want to turn it into a bluff on later streets most of the time. We have a medium strength hand: we don't want to do anything that could make us risk an excessive amount of chips, and we want to get value from bluffs and missed draws.

The upsides to leading out:
+ Might fold out / charge aces and kings that would have stuck around if the PFR doesn't cbet
+ You can lead the turn instead of letting draws get a free card

The downsides to leading out:
- You're removing your ability for your opponent to bluff cbet
- You're opening yourself up to getting raised by worse hands and being forced to fold (or you bet-call, which means you're dumping money when your opponent has a better J, 2 pair, or a set)
- You're giving away your hand strength, because you're probably never balancing this with enough bluffs and draws to make it make sense
- If you're called, you're out of position. Many turns and rivers will be hard to play against an aggressive opponent, and you can end up in a big pot with a middling hand with no idea what to do.

The upsides seem too rare to outweigh the downsides here. Yes, sometimes people are going to outdraw you, but that's loving poker. In this instance, the cards and hands we're worried about are too rare to really be that concerned about it. Don't play scared poker.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Hey JaySB, you confounded the Poker Guys: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdBI04Jg45I

I have a theory about what you were doing there. What do you think of their analysis? Was there anything going on that we didn't see?

(you should also tweet at them - they love it when the actual players tell them what was up)

Imaduck fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 21, 2017

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

JaySB posted:

During the 3 months between making the FT and playing the FT I spent a good deal of time convincing everyone that I was going to be a super nit.
Other than what was shown in TV, how did you do this? Did you like, post stuff on social media saying you were just going to try to fold your way to heads up or something?

quote:

JC knew this. I knew JC knew this, I know JC is perfectly capable of opening his SB light against me. In this spot specifically I didn't want to play post flop with JC because he was certainly capable of out playing me if I don't flop a set. I also knew he was frustrated so I 3 bet. After he 4 bet I spent a good bit of time looking at him trying to get a read and I didn't think he was extremely strong,
Did you notice anything in particular that gave you a read, or just go with your gut here?

quote:

I thought I could get him to fold 77-99, AJs and AQo. I knew how strong clicking back in this spot looks, I'm really only representing 5 hands of which he blocks 2. And because he thinks I'm a super nit and he thinks that I'm really not trying to make moves because of pay jumps, my bet appears even stronger in my mind.
Yeah, this is pretty much exactly what I was thinking, and it seemed pretty obvious if you watch all the coverage. I'm really surprised the Poker Guys didn't pick up on this - they're usually pretty good about taking table dynamics into account.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

maskenfreiheit posted:

So how do you decide if you're going to try to see the flop? Pair or better? High pair or better? Some other scheme? (Newbie here)
Here are the basics for preflop poker for newbies:

1. You should not be playing very many hands at all. At a 10 person table, most solid strategies involve playing only 20-30% of your starting hands. Poker is a game of patience. 7-8 times out of 10 you should be folding, and typically as a new player, you should be on the tighter (more conservative) side of this.

2. There are basically two types of classes of hands you should play: hands that are naturally strong, like AA, KK, QQ, AK, AQ, KQ, etc., and hands that aren't necessarily strong on their own, but have the potential to make really big hands, e.g. TJs (the 's' means "suited"), 89s, 22+ (we're just trying to make three of a kind with small pairs), etc. These types of hands typically give us easier decisions as the hand progresses. Hands like Q7o ('o' means "offsuit") are difficult to play, because even if we hit our queen or 7, we won't know if it's the best hand since there are often going to be higher pair cards out there, or our opponents could have us out kicked. Hands like TJs are usually easy to play, because you can have flush and straight outs, and typically always have a decent idea where your hand stands by the river.

3. Never "limp" pots preflop. "Limping" means simply calling the big blind, instead of raising. Limping is a bad strategy, because it lets lots of other players into our pot for cheap, and often defines our hand as at least somewhat weak, which lets other players attack us too easily. Playing multiway pots is very difficult, and we want to maximize our ability to make good decisions by avoiding difficult spots. Raising lets us thin out the field. If a player bets in front of you, you should strongly consider raising or folding, and rarely should you call. If you are going to call in a multiway pot, you want to do so with more speculative hands like 78s, as opposed to strong hands like AA (although it's okay to raise both). AA doesn't handle multiway pots too well, and our opponents will be able to attack us pretty easily if they sense weakness.

4. Practice positional poker. Basically, being closer to the button is an advantage, both when you open your hand preflop where you'll have less people acting behind you that can attack, and after the flop, when you'll act last and always have the most information when you make your decisions. You can raise weaker hands preflop from the button, and if you're under the gun at a 10 handed table, you shouldn't really open things that are] worse than big pocket pairs and AK. There are a variety of charts out there that can give you a general idea of which hands you should be playing in what positions, e.g. this. As a new player, stick to those and commit them to memory. Down the road, you'll learn more about the game and can learn when it's okay to deviate from these plans.

5. Always raise 3x what the last bet was, unless there was a call. If there's a caller out there, you raise more (basically start with a baseline of 3x the last bet, and then add in each caller's bet to that total). There are mathematical justifications as to why you'd should stick around this bet sizing, but for now, just stick to it as a hard rule and you can learn the theory later. If you're finding that your 3x raises are getting called too often and most pots you open are going 4 or 5 way (this happens a lot in live games), raise fewer hands, and make your raises bigger, like the 4-6x range.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Being fast and keeping the game moving are huge. Make sure players know the action is on them when it's their turn. You might have to constantly prod drunk and otherwise distracted players. New players need to be reminded of things repeatedly.

Reading the board correctly at showdown is super important. Focus on getting it right for now. Speed will come with time.

I've found talkative dealers that joke with the players get better tips, as long as they're not slowing the game down. Every dealer has their own style when it comes to this, so figure out how to use your personality to make the game more interesting.

If you're in a place with lots of tourists, give them recommendations on what to do around town.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
In my experience, it's really hard to get people to take poker seriously when it's not for some amount of money. Poker is all about putting prices on your decisions, and without money to back it up, play money games often just turn into people getting bored and shoving any two cards and not really caring. In theory, yeah, it seems like people should play the same no matter what's on the line, but in reality, it just never works that way. Psychologically, you have to feel like there's some pain to each decision you make.

As JCarver likes to say, "money is how we keep score in poker."

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Yeah, I still struggle with the "why does poker require money to be fun?" question. I can say that empirically, it really does; every "for fun" game I've ever played has just devolved into sillyness where people are shoving every hand out out of boredom. Websites that offer "free poker" have players doing insane things that you'd almost never see at a real table. I hear "higher stakes" play money games - where you have to have earned tons of fake chips to get there - tend to be a little more competitive, but still aren't the same.

I think a big part of the "why" is that at first glance, poker can really look like a game of luck. You can start with the best hand, do everything right, and get destroyed by a bad runout. It's too easy when you're playing for free to just attribute everything to luck. Playing for money - where results matter - makes you stop and think. You start to see players that are consistently winning, and wonder if there's something more to it. You want what the winning players have, and that drives you to figure it out.

What's interesting is that the stakes really matter as well. If you take a player who plays $1000 buy-in games and put them in a $5 buy-in game, most of the time they're not going to take it seriously. They know they can play for much more elsewhere, and once you've lost a $5000 pot, losing a $10 pot seems like child's play. So not only do you need to play for money, you have to play for money that means something to you.

That all being said, this is a trap for new players. If you make a decent amount of money in your daily job, that doesn't mean you should go hop in a $1000 tournament because winning anything less would be nothing to you. Good players see money as a points system. You start with a small amount of points, and build it up until you can play for a big amount of points. Starting at high stakes just means you're going to be incredibly crushed for a long time, and most players won't enjoy that and can't sustain it. You should start at small stakes to learn the game and take that poo poo seriously, even if that money means nothing to you. In best practice, the money shouldn't mean anything to you; it's just how you keep track of how well you're doing.

Work your way up, and you'll do much better in the long run.

Imaduck fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Jun 16, 2017

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

maskenfreiheit posted:

Any suggestions on places to play for an amateur in Vegas?

I mostly hung out at the 1/2 limit table at Golden Nugget last time, going to give NL a shot this time. I read a David Sklansky book so I'm basically a pro ;)
In general, 1/2 games are going to be pretty casual and newbie friendly. Harrah's and The Flamingo tend to be very casual and full of tourists and new players. If the Mirage has games going, they're usually pretty relaxed as well. If you're on the south end of the strip, Excalibur is a good option.

Caesar's is the best place to play on the strip now, deal wise. They have the lowest rake pretty much anywhere: 5% rake, $4 max, no drop for bonus. They also give $2/hr. in comps.

If you're in Vegas between now and July, go to the Rio and check out the World Series of Poker! Even if you're not a poker player, just walk through the room; it's really an amazing thing to see thousands of people playing poker at the same time in the same place. If you are a poker player, play the cash there. The action is loving amazing.

Sheep-Goats posted:

They offer this thing where if you do I think 40 hours at the table they give you 500 bucks at the end of the week, I forget the details, but it means it just attracts some real bone dry grinders at a 1/2 table. No thanks.
Yeah, some poker rooms really try to cater to locals, since having locals means having more games going which will attract the tourists too. This sounds miserable. I've only played at TI's room a couple times, and it's always seemed really poorly run. I wouldn't recommend playing there.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

maskenfreiheit posted:

I don't want to get destroyed and there's a strong overlap between people who play poker and people who hack gibsons so I may avoid the strip's poker rooms.
I wouldn't be too worried about it (or at least, no more worried than you should be at a 1/2 table anywhere else). Just play tight and don't go too crazy and you should be fine. And remember to keep a healthy attitude about it: you're only going to be playing for a relatively short time, so luck will still be a huge factor in your outcome, even if you play well. Enjoy yourself, be conservative, and make sure that no matter if you win or lose it all, you're still going to feel like you had a good time.

quote:

I'm thinking of heading downtown since I had a good time at Golden Nugget.

Oh, also I want to actually gamble on this trip a little, are there any sub--5 dollar craps/blackjack/roulette tables anywhere?
During the week and during the daytime you'll sometimes see $3 craps downtown. You'll pretty much never see less than $5 craps on the strip, and honestly $5 is getting pretty rare nowadays. I don't know of anyplace that does blackjack for less than $5/hand. Keep in mind that the lower denomination blackjack games tend to have rules that give the house a much, much larger edge.

quote:

(Also down for slots if they're old timey and literally spew coins)
I think someone mentioned that The D still has these. If you have more Vegas specific questions, you should check out the Las Vegas Travel Thread.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

maskenfreiheit posted:

Speaking of tipping, what is the etiquette for tipper poker dealers?

I usually throw a dollar when I win a pot... I've so far been playing low limit so pots are usually only like 20-30.
There's nothing really agreed upon. Some folks will throw a dollar or two to the dealer for every pot they win, even if it's just the blinds, and then throw a $5 if it's like a $100+ pot. Some players just tip the dealer a dollar or two when they switch rotations. Other players rarely or never tip. Personally, I won't tip for the blinds most of the time, but I'll usually tip a dollar for medium-sized pots and $2 for big pots. I'd say, on average, I'm on the cheap side for tipping.

Most of the grinders tip less, because we know how much it'll cut into profits in the long run (that poo poo adds up fast). A lot of tourists tip big, because they're just there for fun anyway.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Lower buy-in live tournaments typically have a large percentage of the entry fee going to the casino. You should inquire with the specific card rooms to get information on what the casino's take is. Very often for $75 tournaments, something like 40-50% of the entry fee goes straight to casino, which makes this tournaments basically unbeatable. They're also often structured with few chips and very fast blind structures. If you're just trying to play something cheap for fun, this is probably okay, but if you're trying to build up a bankroll, $75 live tournaments are probably a bad investment.

Payout structures vary wildly, but typically 8-20% of the field gets paid. I'd say 10-12% is probably the most common payout, and re-entries usually don't count towards the player count.

Typically, the minimum payouts will be very close to whatever you bought in for. First place will usually get a hefty chunk of the prize pool; usually somewhere in the 25-50% range. There usually aren't big prize jumps until you get to the final table. In smaller tournaments, there might only be 2-4 spots that pay out, and the jumps can be pretty big for those.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
I agree with the others; unless your only goal is to play an hour or two in tournaments just to say you did it, $150 isn't enough to play in a casino with. Even for a very good player, there's a very high chance you'll bust long before you hit the 12 hour mark at Harrah's. This is even worse if you're playing with scared money since you're unwilling to rebuy.

Buying in for 50BB is short at a cash game, and requires a different, high variance strategy. Casino cash games often involve deep stacks and big preflop raises.

I don't think tournaments count towards the 12 hours for freeroll.

I don't want to discourage you, but you need to figure out what your goals are and plan accordingly. If you want to just play, then yeah, $150 will get you a median of 2 hours of play, be it cash or tournament. Sometimes you'll win and get to play much longer than that, but that's a rare result.

1/2 games attract some low level pros sometimes, but it's mostly gonna be vacationers that play at home a bit and are okay, but not great. There will not be any good players at $75 or even $150 multi table tournaments.

Imaduck fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jun 25, 2017

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

Subjunctivitis posted:

Tommy Angelo noted in "The Elements of Poker" (I'm paraphrasing):
My wife was out with some friends and a couple guys that were there said to her, "So your husband's a poker pro, eh? You must learn some secrets from him - got any advice for us?"
She said, "Fold more hands."
Yes, a million times this. Fold 85% of hands. Just sit there and enjoy the drinks. Strike up conversation with folks. Don't fall into the trap of flat-calling $10 raises when your stack is only $100.

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on

maskenfreiheit posted:

So what are most people's heuristics for when to go in vs fold?

I've been practicing and notice I have tendency to get bored and try to see the flop with sub par hands like J8s.

Just don't see the flop w/o at least a pair or suited face cards?
I made a post earlier in this thread that's probably a good place to start for preflop strategy:

Imaduck posted:

Here are the basics for preflop poker for newbies:

1. You should not be playing very many hands at all. At a 10 person table, most solid strategies involve playing only 20-30% of your starting hands. Poker is a game of patience. 7-8 times out of 10 you should be folding, and typically as a new player, you should be on the tighter (more conservative) side of this.

2. There are basically two types of classes of hands you should play: hands that are naturally strong, like AA, KK, QQ, AK, AQ, KQ, etc., and hands that aren't necessarily strong on their own, but have the potential to make really big hands, e.g. TJs (the 's' means "suited"), 89s, 22+ (we're just trying to make three of a kind with small pairs), etc. These types of hands typically give us easier decisions as the hand progresses. Hands like Q7o ('o' means "offsuit") are difficult to play, because even if we hit our queen or 7, we won't know if it's the best hand since there are often going to be higher pair cards out there, or our opponents could have us out kicked. Hands like TJs are usually easy to play, because you can have flush and straight outs, and typically always have a decent idea where your hand stands by the river.

3. Never "limp" pots preflop. "Limping" means simply calling the big blind, instead of raising. Limping is a bad strategy, because it lets lots of other players into our pot for cheap, and often defines our hand as at least somewhat weak, which lets other players attack us too easily. Playing multiway pots is very difficult, and we want to maximize our ability to make good decisions by avoiding difficult spots. Raising lets us thin out the field. If a player bets in front of you, you should strongly consider raising or folding, and rarely should you call. If you are going to call in a multiway pot, you want to do so with more speculative hands like 78s, as opposed to strong hands like AA (although it's okay to raise both). AA doesn't handle multiway pots too well, and our opponents will be able to attack us pretty easily if they sense weakness.

4. Practice positional poker. Basically, being closer to the button is an advantage, both when you open your hand preflop where you'll have less people acting behind you that can attack, and after the flop, when you'll act last and always have the most information when you make your decisions. You can raise weaker hands preflop from the button, and if you're under the gun at a 10 handed table, you shouldn't really open things that are] worse than big pocket pairs and AK. There are a variety of charts out there that can give you a general idea of which hands you should be playing in what positions, e.g. this. As a new player, stick to those and commit them to memory. Down the road, you'll learn more about the game and can learn when it's okay to deviate from these plans.

5. Always raise 3x what the last bet was, unless there was a call. If there's a caller out there, you raise more (basically start with a baseline of 3x the last bet, and then add in each caller's bet to that total). There are mathematical justifications as to why you'd should stick around this bet sizing, but for now, just stick to it as a hard rule and you can learn the theory later. If you're finding that your 3x raises are getting called too often and most pots you open are going 4 or 5 way (this happens a lot in live games), raise fewer hands, and make your raises bigger, like the 4-6x range.
Note that this is meant to be advice for a place to start for newbies, not a complete, solid poker strategy.

If you want to understand the theory behind hand ranges and all that a little better, I really think Harrington on Hold'em does the best job explaining not only what hands you should play, but why you should play them. Hand range charts are a nice place to start, but if you want to grow as a player, you really need to understand the underlying theory of why you're playing certain hands in certain situations so that you can adapt on the fly, as opposed to sticking to some prescribed formula. Simple, prescribed formulas rarely work in poker, and will never work against very good players.

Imaduck fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Jul 24, 2017

Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
Also:

How often can I make it to showdown when I make this hand? (e.g. a pair of sevens with Q7s)
How often will I lose even when I make my hand?

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Imaduck
Apr 16, 2007

the magnetorotational instability turns me on
I don't think they wan't to stay small necessarily... but I doubt they're flush with cash to spend on marketing. It's also unclear how effective it would be; it takes a decent amount of commitment by most people's standards to get up and running with cash on ACR. Poker is already a niche market at this point, and I imagine the conversion rate from advertisement to customer is rather low. In addition, it appears Google AdWords is pretty restrictive about what gambling sites they allow, and I doubt ACR would pass their scrutiny.

This is mostly just speculation, of course.

I also don't there's any chance of online poker becoming huge in the US unless it becomes unambiguously legal, player bases are merged across state lines, and it becomes easy to get money in and out of the sites. Even in the states where online gambling is legal in the US, my understanding is that poker isn't doing incredibly well. There's not a ton of competition, and many companies have gone under. PokerStars NJ seems to be doing okay, but nothing like the old days or PokerStarts international.

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