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So after slowly getting back into the swing of things in regards to painting miniatures (mainly figures for Frostgrave/fantasy RPGs at the moment, with a few Guild Ball figs added in), the new starter boxes are tempting me to give Warmahordes another shot. I originally had some Khador stuff from the two-player battlebox, but the plastic used on those figures almost drove me to tears. How do the new plastics in the Mk3 battleboxes stack up? Are they fairly easy to clean, what sort of glue do you need to use on 'em (i.e., plastic cement or superglue), etc. Apologies if this has all been answered before, too. I just wanted to check and see what you guys thought before I splurged and spent money to add to my already-existing backlog of miniatures to get painted. 
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Aug 19, 2016 07:07
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darnon posted:The new battlebox contents are the same resin as before, just colored. Likewise the molds are the same (except for the new casters, of course) so still some of the same obnoxious mold lines. That said the newer designs have generally been better and the newer pewters are getting up to Corvus Belli standards (Aiakos2 had hardly any flash and fits together really neatly). Superglue is the ready choice for both resin and pewter. Ah, that sucks.  I may still give one of the newer battleboxes a try, though, simply for getting the mini rulebook. I'll just have to grit my teeth when cleaning up mold lines. Thanks for the info!
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Aug 19, 2016 17:41
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As someone who's been 3D printing minis with resin since late 2020, I'll add my voice to the chorus of "I would not buy those minis". The quality looks bad in regards to layer lines/stepping/etc., the details look soft, and the fully cured resin figure should be matte and not tacky; being shiny and tacky means the resin has not been cured fully. I don't know what machines they're using to print with, what resins they're using, or what their cleaning and curing process is; but to me it doesn't bode well for this decision of theirs when I get better results with my Elegoo Saturn and Elegoo Mercury wash and cure station doing hobbyist stuff, than a company that's going to supposedly be doing this for mass production. Hard pass from me, which is a pity since I was hoping to start up a new Khador force, but not with what I've been seeing thus far. E: Serenade posted:My experience with 3d resin printing is only that of a hobbyist and thus is fairly limited but, To be fair, if they're splitting a warjack into multiple smaller parts, it would conceivably cut the print time down a fair bit; as you say, height is one of the factors in how long something takes to print, so the smaller of a profile you can make something (whether by angling it so it has a shorter profile, or by splitting it into smaller multiple pieces), theoretically it should take less time to print. That being said, 1.5 hours still sounds like it's way too far on the low end of the scale. Without going into a bunch of resin 3D printer nerd stuff, long story short is that even the fastest newer mono screen printers generally say that most prints will take on average at least 3-4 hours to do a print. There are settings and firmwares and whatnot that people say they use to speed up their print times, but in my experience cutting corners for speed usually means more failed prints that have to be cleaned off the printer's build plate and out of the resin vat before you can try printing again. Unless PP has access to some fancy new 3D printing tech that isn't at the consumer level yet, they're going to have so many wasted manhours just cleaning up all the failed prints because they were trying to make a warjack take less than two hours to print. I should add that I err on the side of caution, and have my print settings slowed down, so that way I can usually just fire off a print, make sure the first few layers print OK and that there aren't any problems with leaks etc., and then go to bed. One of the benefits to resin printing is that it is very much a "set it and forget it" kind of thing. 
Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 15:10
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Chalky residue is often the result of not waiting until your resin prints are 100% dry from their cleaning wash before curing them. This is why everyone recommends using alcohol to clean resin 3D prints, as it not only breaks down the loose resin, but it also evaporates faster than water. I generally let my resin prints sit and air dry for at least 20 minutes (though it usually ends up being an hour or so as I often forget and start doing other things while they're air drying). You can of course speed this up with a hair dryer or a small fan or something, but I'm fine with waiting. But I guess that's why I'm just a hobbyist and not trying to make 3D printed minis the business model for my wargaming company.
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Aug 7, 2022 18:03
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A quick Google search showed me that they're having a similar discussion on this subject in the Dakka forums, so it ain't just us here on SA talking about it.
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Aug 8, 2022 00:35
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I kind of checked out of Warmahordes prior to the release of Mk3, what was it about that release that basically killed the game off for everyone? I remember checking in the thread occasionally and people talking about how their local WMH scene had pretty much died off, but I don't remember what it was about that release that made everyone ditch it for other stuff (other than I think it was also around the time GW had a massive shakeup in their upper management and started to kinda sorta get good again).
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Aug 8, 2022 05:55
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Yeah, I remember getting into Warmahordes back around the mid-2010s, when GW was in the midst of shooting themselves in the foot with stuff like Finecast and the Chapterhouse lawsuit and whatnot. I'd gotten the Khador half of a starter box (I think it was Khador vs. Menoth in that one) and was pondering getting a Circle force for Hordes at some point. The thing that kept me from jumping in full force was the use of "restic", I absolutely hated trying to clean that poo poo up for the warjacks and I replaced the individual figures with metal models whenever I could, but that wasn't exactly the cheapest proposition. That plus I started getting into some other games like Bolt Action and Frostgrave as time went on, so I paid less attention to the WMH stuff. And then I moved and I got out of gaming for a while, I think this would've been right around the time that Mk3 was announced, and when I started dipping my toes back in was when I started reading about how people had abandoned WMH in droves. This would have been right around the same time (or shortly after) GW got rid of Kirby and started making tiny steps towards making good games again (though they do seem to be sliding back into some of their old habits nowadays). These days I mainly 3D print minis for games like Frostgrave, Stargrave, and Grimdark Future, among others. I was mildly intrigued by the announcement of WMH Mk4, but from what I've seen of their 3D printed minis, I'm probably going to pass on it. DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:PP made a lot of bad decisions in different arenas at the start of Mk3, but I think one thing that can’t really be overstated is the degree to which non-GW wargames’ success or failure is really tied to whether GW is currently loving up or not. GW was loving up badly from 2008 or so to 2018 or so. In 2018 things started to improve and by 2019 they were doing really well. I remember even in the late 2010s, the majority of the games at a given store were going to be GW (and more specifically 40k), and then whatever ones were either selling well enough for the owner to keep in stock, or whichever ones a store's owner was trying to push super hard in order to create a local scene for that particular game (I was living in central FL at the time, so these tended to be either WMH, X-Wing, or Infinity; I remember a store in Orlando was pushing Guild Ball pretty heavily when it first came out, and there was a store in Tampa that had a pretty healthy stock of Malifaux, but that was about it for non-GW games. Any Bolt Action I played was on a casual level as there wasn't a lot of stores carrying BA stuff). Oddly enough, the FLGS in my hometown sells precisely zero GW stuff. They had a small stock in when I moved back home in 2017, but it was all older releases that were like 3 or 4 years old. When I was talking to one of the guys who worked there, he said that the 40k/AoS scene was nonexistent here, and that their prime movers (excluding Magic and other card games of that ilk, which keeps most game stores afloat) were RPGs like D&D and Pathfinder. He'd never even heard of Warmahordes when I mentioned it.
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Aug 8, 2022 14:09
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Good to know I can just keep right on avoiding Steamforged's stuff for the foreseeable future. I had bought some GB figures back in the day and enjoyed painting them, but never really got around to playing the game. (E: to correct a weird redundancy )
Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 23:32
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CaptCommy posted:They definitely will, so uh, don't do that if you can avoid it. I guess this is one way to encourage people to play it painted I think if you apply a clearcoat (preferably one designed to block UV rays) to an unpainted resin 3D print, it should be OK. That said, you'd still have the same issues with heat from the sunlight potentially warping or deforming the print, so I'd still recommend not putting it somewhere where it'd be left in direct sunlight.
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Aug 16, 2022 17:16
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Sab669 posted:They clearly want you to be able to swap arms & heads about rather than buying 4 different Jack kits to build every option. Obviously they've learned nothing from GW's business model
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Aug 17, 2022 14:08
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Are Menoth in the new edition basically the Warmahordes version of old 40k squats? And since squats are now basically back in 40k, should we replace "squatted" with the term "Menoth-ed" for armies that get nuked by a game company?
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Sep 23, 2022 22:08
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rydiafan posted:That depends on how many printers they have. Imagine being the poor bastard who has to go get the build plate off each individual printer, scrape the minis off, wash 'em, remove supports, cure 'em, for their whole shift 
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Oct 7, 2022 15:21
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If they had actual industrial use-case 3D printers that can churn out a bunch of high-quality models, it'd be perfectly fine. But I just have a nagging feeling that PP just has a bunch of consumer-grade printers, like a bunch of Anycubic Photon Mono Xs or something, just chugging away in a closet somewhere while some poor intern grudgingly heats up some water to make supports removal easier.
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Oct 7, 2022 19:53
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Thirsty Dog posted:"I'll have a ham sandwich, a packet of Skittles, and a unit of Fennblades please" "Gimme $20 on pump 6, a pack of menthols, oh and some scratchoffs and a couple of those Scyrah Myrmidons, too"
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Oct 24, 2022 14:45
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The thing I gather about NMM is that it seems to be a technique where it looks awesome when viewed from one specific angle, so it's great for photographing or display, but a bit of a mess when viewed by any other angle.
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Sep 19, 2023 12:42
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