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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:They could offer to prefill/QDC standalone radiators and reservoirs and then people would be free to go nuts on lego-block custom loops Crazy timing man
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Jan 16, 2017 14:03
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Deuce posted:Acrylic is something you can bend with a heat gun and your hands. Fitting bends are sexier, if wind-pissingly expensive.
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Mar 10, 2017 06:03
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They're also just super bad fans independent of their appearance. You probably have enough that it doesn't really matter but it's a strange concession for such a high end build.
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Jul 19, 2017 03:24
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It's amazing that barely anyone offers polished plexi options for WC components. Polishing plexi has been a common thing for years and years now and I've never seen a case where it doesn't massively improve the appearance.
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Jul 20, 2017 04:18
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I managed to get two EK FC980-TF5 as well as an acetal 3-slot bridge for $6 each and $3 each respectively so I guess I am watercooling my current rig instead of the next which was the plan. Whats the word on running multiple components in parallel? It would make things a lot cleaner to manage in my small case. I am planning a loop in my P400s. Back 120mm radiator, front 280mm. D5+reservoir in the front behind the 280mm, two GPU blocks and a CPU block with a parallel GPU bridge. I was thinking of having the GPU bridge in parallel with the CPU block and the back radiator so I can connect the loop only to the bottom of the case and not having it running across the top back to the pump. Pump/res -> GPU -> CPU block -> 120mm radiator -> GPU -> 280mm radiator -> Pump/res Like this:  But with the back radiator also in parallel.
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Aug 8, 2017 07:29
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I love the build Scarecrow, unfortunately they weren't out when you started but it is possible now to have both RGB lighting and high quality fans in one. Phanteks sells RGB fan frames so you can have good RGB with any white bladed fan. For anyone else buying new fans for loops, avoid the noctua F series fans. They're super outdated and superseded in every way by newer fans in performance/noise/price, hell they weren't even the best when new. The best thing to look at are darkside GT's, NB eLoops, EK Vardars, or Corsair ML series. The ML's aren't the absolute best for performance (that would be the GT's and their cousins), but I love them for their total lack of bearing noise and overall pleasant tone. Phanteks makes super good fans as well, but they are mostly the best in heatsink fans (for tower coolers). This is really not relevant for Scarecrows build as there is enough rad space that it doesn't matter at all. It could probably be run passively for a decent duration due to the sheer heat capacity of that much fluid and passive heat transfer. Scarecow posted:Well I wanted to make a balls to the wall pc, I havnt even got started with fitting the PSU and the custom cabling Im going to have to do re bus bars for the LEDS or the tight fit at the front for the aquero controller loving love the DIY stuff you've posted so far, you're really doing a fully perfected/integrated setup and it's awesome.
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Aug 27, 2017 13:35
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Solumin posted:That's for PCI-E ones, not M.2, unfortunately. No, it's actually exclusively for M.2 SSDs. It is a PCIE 4x to M.2 adaptor with an included waterblock. PCIE SSDs need specifically tailored waterblocks, of which I only know of the EK one for the Intel 750s.
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Sep 5, 2017 05:36
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Awesome, it really came together. I think some custom cables with combs are the only thing missing. Have you tried running it passively under load? You have so much rad space and huge reservoirs that I imagine it could sustain impressive loads without the fans running at all. I'm just getting in the final parts for a loop now myself. Nothing aesthetic or performance focused, just for silence. I have a windowless Phanteks P400s that I am stuffing a 280mm and 120mm radiator in. Using plain black looks with a focus on reliability and low maintenance silent computing. The whole thing with EK blocks/fittings/tubing, a DDC pump, and nemesis GTS rads only set me back $380 AUD total for CPU + 2 GPU with full cover blocks. I'll probably run it passive at idle and as low fan speed as possible that keeps the water at safe levels under load.
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Sep 25, 2017 02:13
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Scarecow posted:yeah the plan is to have everything power down to basically off when not needed once I work out how to setup the Aquaero software right, tho the garbage thermaltake fans are currently loving up that plan and im looking at replacing them with EK fans with phantek led covers I'd recommend trying out the Corsair ML fans. I have two MLs in my computer and they have the nicest acoustics of any fan I've ever used. They don't match up with Vardars for CFM/SPL but they totally lack bearing noise and they sound really smooth and pleasant. I'm going to compare them with my Vardars on the radiator when I get it all built, waiting on a radiator coming in from America (I simply had to have a cross-flow rad for how easy it makes tubing runs). I've got a fancy studio mic that could record the difference. They've got white blade non-LED ones that you can put frames on easily. I personally stay away from everything thermaltake makes for liquid cooling, due to their propensity to put aluminium flow channels everywhere like loving morons. They've been putting out way more interesting cases recently though.
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Sep 25, 2017 03:00
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Don Lapre posted:I didnt like the ML's at all. They had some odd higher pitched noise and had to return them. My first set one of them had the high pitched noise. It was incredibly poo poo and irritating, but the second set I exchanged them for don't have it at all. It was a sound just from the bearing and it seemed due to damage or something faulty. It seems it's a problem that some of them have out of the gate. Now that I have fully working ones they're fantastic.
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Sep 25, 2017 04:07
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I own both and can happily say Corsair ML all day long. They are greyish blades however so they won't be as clearly lit with the frames as the EK fans I think. The MLs just sound so drat pleasant. Also hey,  water-cooling buddies. Just got a big pile of fittings from PCCG today myself.E: make sure you're sending a proper pwm signal to ML fans, the bearings are totally incompatible with DC/voltage control and 3 pin headers BurritoJustice fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 04:42
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Scarecow posted:PCCG do have a really good selection of pc parts but their warranty team can be giant cunts at times so I'm expecting them to be sooks about me returning these thermaltake fans but gently caress the idea of having to RMA the controllers to get them to work on AMD motherboards Yeah PCCG support is garbage, they blatantly don't give a poo poo about the Australian consumer laws and have told my mate to take them to small claims if he wanted a refund for his GPU that wasn't depreciated. I usually use Mwave or Umart because they're both 10 minutes drive away. I've only dealt with Mwave support, they're slow but they always accept returns no hassle in my experience. I only bought from PCCG because they have fittings that no-one else keeps in warehouse stock and I didn't want to wait for Mwave to ship them from Slovenia. I really wish we had a good big retailer that specialised in water cooling as it's a real pain to get specific fittings.
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Sep 27, 2017 05:52
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My mate makes excessive amounts of money and he figured his time was worth more than the two hundred bucks. He did report it to VCAT though, don't know how that followed up.
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Sep 27, 2017 09:50
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Gonna cross post this from the GPU thread. Now I know that there are fan adaptors for graphics cards that let you use the GPU's fan controller with case fans, but does anyone know if LED adaptors exist? All NVIDIA reference GPUs use the same two pin connector for the included LEDs. I want to be able to adapt some 3mm leds to the 2 pin connector so that I can control the LEDs in my waterblocks with NVIDIA's software. Am I mad or is this a thing that just doesn't exist?
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Sep 29, 2017 15:38
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Just finished leak testing this: 280+120 in a Phanteks P400s. It's about as full as the case can possibly be but I am happy with the results. Next project is to delid the 3570K, it still gets pretty toasty under overclocked load. The only product that I am disappointed in is the DDC pump, it's a whiny motherfucker. When I get some more money I am going to swap it for a D5.
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Oct 4, 2017 04:51
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They're 980's. I got the blocks and the interconnect for $25 total so it wasn't much of a sunk cost to use my old cards. They might be replaced by Volta but, to be honest, they're more than enough for anything i do on my computer. I might get a HB SLI bridge so I can masquerade them as 1080tis 🤔
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Oct 4, 2017 08:06
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New Zealand can eat me posted:What are my options for throwing an AIO on a Vega 64? The block you've linked is just a waterblock, I believe their GPX Pro line are the ones with the pumps. If you're going to spend that much I'd wonder if it is worth just going for a proper custom loop. The much probably better option for closed loop is a NZXT G10/12 and any Asetek AIO, should be substantially cheaper and not much worse. Going for a custom loop lets you cool your CPU and gives you much more flexibility for expansion and part selection. Worst case you can go for an EK A240R aluminium kit for around the same cost.
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Feb 5, 2018 15:37
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New Zealand can eat me posted:That's a good protip re: angled fittings, thank you. I had noticed that it did look very clean Yo I know you've already ordered, but you cannot fit a 420 rad in your case. Absolute maximum in the front is a 360. I'd personally recommend going for a 240 in the top as well so you can run your fans a little slower. If you do go for two rads you'll need to get thin ones, the EK thin rads are garbage so you'll want to go for HWLabs GTS radiators. I'd recommend looking at other builds in your case to get an idea, it's most common to go 360+240 with optionally a 120 in the back. I'm unsure if that pump bracket can take the dual pump top as well.
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Feb 6, 2018 00:18
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that's gorgeous dude. How do you have the controller mounted in there? I hadn't considered just putting one in there sideways like that. Looked over at this tower like "welp, no drive bays" and that was that 
Going to have to fit and route everything first to see if I need more/different angled fittings. I'll have to wait till it gets here, but my plan is to run a fill port from the back of the case towards the top that'd have a downward slope into the top of the res. I think I'll be able to run the splitter off the rad and still have enough downward slope on the way to the back panel In a perfect world I might try to put the ball valve on the outside so that I don't have to take the side off at all when I swap fluid.
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New Zealand can eat me posted:I actually didn't because the purchase got flagged and they locked the card, lucky! For some reason I thought the front was 3x140mm fans, but the max is actually 2 for 140. Due to the jet plate, the right port has to be used as input which makes putting the 120 in-between the GPU/CPU a bit clunky. I would go from monoblock output to the rear 120 then up to the 240, but you can try both options once you get all the parts. I'm a big fan of filling every rad space in the case but some people see the extra capacity of a back 120 to be overkill. I think it's merely 'kill. The XE360 is a great rad, but it is ENORMOUS. Make sure to double check that there is enough space. If you are planning to run at low fan speeds (800RPM~), then the XE360 will actually perform worse than a 360GTS. As the XE360 is quite thick and restrictive, it needs high speed fans to actually push through the whole rad and use it to it's full capacity.  At 1300RPM the XE360 is 18w~ ahead, and by 1850RPM it is 70w~ ahead. If you want a radiator that strikes a much better balance, and can deal with a 60mm, the HWLabs SR-2 is thick but low density. It performs like a GTS at low speeds while having greater headroom. I personally think building a custom loop and running 1500RPM+ fans kinda defeats the point, so I tend to lean towards lower restriction radiators. What fans are you intending to use? Currently the Corsair ML fans are best in class, and are quite cheap if you buy 2-packs. You do have to make sure to use them with a true PWM signal, as voltage control will physically damage the fan.
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Feb 6, 2018 04:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:I'm currently speccing an upcoming TR2 build, and unlike before, I'm not going to wuss out of watercooling. I'm likely going to stick an 360mm AIO on the CPU, but I'm a bit concerned about the case. I'm considering the NZXT H700 currently, because it looks nice, but it doesn't have direct intakes and exhausts, but everything goes through grids on the side. I have one with a 360 front, 280 top and 120 read. Temps are quite good, they did a good job having the fan mounts further back from the panel when compared to similar cases. Definitely don't get the "i" model though, the fan controller is total poo poo.
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Jun 18, 2018 10:17
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Ahh my bad, I forgot the typhoons are 120mm. Make triple extra sure you don't run them on voltage control. They need 12v and a PWM signal for speed control. Voltage control will make them sound awful and shorten their lifespan considerably.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:50
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forbidden dialectics posted:Probably going to re-do my setup later this year. My current loop has been running since about 2013 and it's time for an upgrade and probably a pump replacement. You gain a few degrees in CPU temps just due to the lesser clamping force on the socket, and you can't use delidded CPU's reliably with monoblocks because you change your CPU's Z-height. They look neat as gently caress though and you're probably still gonna have great temps, so it's a cost/performance vs aesthetics thing. If you do have a delidded CPU, make sure to buy an aftermarket heatspreader that is taller to account for the difference, Bitspower makes a ridiculously tall one that is perfect for this. For X299/X399 I'd recommend them as you can encounter VRM throttling a lot easier with the huge chips, and if you're going for 5.2+ with 1.4v+ on the 6 or 8 core Coffeelakes then they might be worth considering.
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Aug 4, 2018 16:12
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EK slims are the worst copper radiators money can buy, but they do fit the niche of "exactly the size of the fans". If you don't need that, get HWLabs GTS, if you do need that size then get HWLabs LS series (OEM but you can get them from a few places, if you can't they get rebranded as Bitspower thins). HWlabs absolutely dominate the thin radiator scene.
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Apr 6, 2020 08:53
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ilkhan posted:What are the pros and cons of going (EVGA RTX3080 XC3 or founders edition RTX3080) + aftermarket waterblock (EK probably) vs an EVGA RTX 3080 Hydrocopper? The hydrocopper blocks have typically been very (flow) restrictive and subpar. Their reputation has improved but I still think they're hideous and the flow ports are spaced in a janky way Preinstalled blocks can be a nice improvement in ease of wareanty depending on where you live, and they save a bit of hassle. It's up to you if that's worth it, you can definitely get a better block and mount it with better TIM if you're happy to do it yourself
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Sep 12, 2020 15:14
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Gigabyte confirmed to me over chat that they're launching 3080/3090 Waterforce and might be launching a 3 slot bridge to match
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Oct 10, 2020 04:22
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Deionised is fine, demineralised is not. Which is notable because in Australia loving everywhere wants to sell you demineralised and nothing else
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Nov 11, 2020 12:39
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You can encounter temperature problems with DDR4 memory running at 4000MHz/1.45v+, especially if you have a water-cooled case filled with radiators and less passive airflow. It'll show up as reduce overclocking headroom and stability. You also see active cooling on higher density 32gb+ modules at 3200 like in servers. It's slightly less insane than it used to be with less demanding memory, but still lowest priority next to VRM cooling. If you want to use EK RAM blocks then you can buy their Monarch Modules which will fit standard DDR4 DIMMs and allow you to mount their Monarch X4 block. The Dominator memory they refer to are older sticks with removable fins that allow a flat top to mount the blocks, they're not really a thing anymore so you need to replace the coolers on other memory. An upside of the Monarch Modules is that the nickel ones look really nice and understated even if you don't mount the waterblock on.
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Feb 27, 2021 04:06
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The Corsair rads aren't uniquely customised, they're just the L series OEM variants of the HWLABS stealth rads. They're cut down to fit in the exact width of the fans for maximum case compatibility for OEMs. You can get them straight from performance-pcs if you want to cut out the Corsair tax.
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Jun 10, 2021 03:52
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sarr posted:This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: That's incredible. It also lets you draw fluid directly into the loop to make filling easier. I'm probably going to buy one, wow.
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Jun 15, 2021 08:55
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movax posted:It's not weird / technically a bad thing to mix hardline and soft tubing, right? As times goes on and I realize how little time I have to spend on this project... for some of these really weird paths, I feel like soft-tubing would let me get the job done faster. There is nothing wrong with it. A popular way of doing hardline a while ago was to use soft tubing in the back for easy maintenance and routing. No need to go to the extra effort for what's out of sight. I recommend it if you're part of the "stuff the rear panel on and forget about it" cable gang
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Jul 12, 2021 10:05
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SPACE HOMOS posted:I don't have a silver kill coil. I'll have to take a picture of it tomorrow when I drain my loop. When I first put a flashlight to it, I thought it was rust. Do you have any Optimum blocks in your loop? They don't play nice with EK nickel. Did you flush your radiators before using them? Could be flux/crap from manufacturing. Unless your loop is 100% copper I'd advise against just 100% distilled and get one of the longevity focused clear coolants, the anti-corrosives go a long way.
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Nov 28, 2021 14:53
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VelociBacon posted:Hi everyone, after many years of custom builds with AIOs, I'm finally jumping into a custom loop because I got an EVGA notify queue pop for one of the 3090s with the hydro copper block preinstalled. Yesterday I transferred my build into a Meshify 2 XL so I'd have more room for the loop and rads. EK is ok, but their QC is a bit spotty and you pay for the name. I'm not a fan at all of EK Vardars. I would go for a 480mm+360mm, 120mm fans are preferred here because you can go for Phanteks T30-120 which absolute stomp every other fan even up to the A12x25. I would go for a rear fan as another intake, so 360 front, 480 top (or reverse if that fits better), then a rear intake for fresh air. Don't buy EK rads unless you can fit the XE. The XE is competitive but the others are terrible, especially the SE thin rad. HWLabs make the best radiators by far, you can go for their GTS series for best all-rounders. They also make the L series which are OEM only but have the exact width of the fans on them, these are useful for cases with limited space for rads. Bits power and Corsair both rebrand slim L series HWLabs rads so you could get those if they're more available. You might need more than 1L, I have 1.2L in my loop that is 360+280+120, but I have a huge monoblock that holds a lot.
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Jan 9, 2022 06:58
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VelociBacon posted:Thanks. I should have mentioned that I'm based in Canada so it's hard to find a lot of this stuff. HWLabs is on our amazon.ca but nothing in 420 seems to be on there. I really would look at 480 instead of 420, it's more total raddage and 140mm fans kinda suck right now (no 140x25 or T30-140) I like performancePCs, shipping is expensive but fixed rate and they've got a full range of HWLabs. Make sure to post your list before you order just to double check everything.
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Jan 9, 2022 07:44
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I didn't even think of it, but hey, 9900K + Ampere gang. I have two temp sensors, one for ambient and one for coolant and I typically target 5-10c over ambient. You definitely want to tie fan speed to coolant temp because it's the actual dependant variable. My 3080 sits around 45c in games, but it'll break 50c if I turn up the power limit to 500w and go for 2150MHz core. When I'm mining overnight it sits at a lovely 35c ish CPU is at 5.1, and I've got DDR4 waterblocks delivered and I'm just waiting on some fittings. It seems insane to watercool ram but I've got very low case airflow and I get consistent temperature instability with my ram when overclocking (3900c14 @ 1.55v, goes unstable like clockwork when the ram hits 50c). 360+280+120 radiators
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Jan 9, 2022 15:38
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I keep my D5 at 100%. At the distance I sit from my computer, and with the case sides on, the pump noise isn't audible. Which is strange, because I'll get annoyed if my fans touch 1000rpm I dunno why I'm so much less sensitive to the pump noise. Currently I'm using 2xML140 and 4xML120, but I have four T30-120 and two P140 CO on order. The ML fans have really low and soothing bearing noise but it's obvious they aren't the best fan blade design for airflow/RPM
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Jan 10, 2022 03:57
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AutismVaccine posted:saw the discussion way too late, a few questions: I swapped from an EK DDC to an EK D5 pump, noise is more manageable with the D5 at full speed (I believe full speed isn't as fast as some other D5 though) than the DDC on PWM. DDC is just unpleasant sounding, even at same dB. You get insane pressure out of them though, good if you have a very restrictive loop.
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Jan 27, 2022 10:43
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VelociBacon posted:Hey so I posted awhile ago about my build, it's a 9900k and 3090, with two 420mm rads. I've really been waffling on orientation of the fans on the rads, which will be front and top. I've always had my rads exhausting to the outside of the case, but I worry if I do that with this setup I'll have a pretty serious negative pressure/dust issue in the case. Here's the mockup again but with the non-radiator fan locations marked in purple, and to clarify, the basement plate above where the two bottom fans are will be removed anyways for the radiator so there's nothing really blocking them: Personally, I would go front intake, top exhaust on the radiators, then just gave the rear 140 on intake. The bottom two slots will just mess with the flow, I feel. You'll also run into space issues with the max size rads and a decent PSU trying to fit bottom fans. I have 360 front intake, 280 top and 120 rear exhaust rads and I have to run the front fans a slightly higher curve to have positive pressure (testing just by feeling airflow over little gaps)
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