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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Don't use superglue, water will break it down and it'll leak again. More please. There's no ultramegaglue that I could possibly depend upon to permanently fix this defective product. Right. Right?
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2017 04:39 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 21:16 |
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Yeah, the coolers work but may be suboptimal. How much a difference it makes remains to be tested.
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2017 16:26 |
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Leaky EK monoblock update: Took a couple days on the back and forth (largely due to the time zone difference, I suspect). They first offered to have the unit picked up and shipped to them for repair. I asked for a replacement unit because I wasn't willing to trust a refurbished unit sitting directly on top of an expensive CPU and motherboard. (plus, I paid full price for a new product, I should get a new product) They shipped a new unit out that day, and scheduled DHL to come to my place and pick up the defective unit. The new one actually arrives before DHL comes for the old one. Many of their products are on Newegg/Amazon, but it's good to know that for niche/new products you have to order from them directly you get good service when needed.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2017 23:28 |
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Solumin posted:This is frustrating! I'm dealing with a heat wave (~105 degrees F/40 degrees C the past couple days), and the water cooling system is handling it just fine. Seriously, with the air conditioning on, I'm idling at 26 degrees C on the GPU. Does your motherboard have one of those stupid "HEAT SHIELD XXX GAMING PERFORMANCE XXX" covers over the m.2 slot?
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2017 19:27 |
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Solumin posted:Yup. Asus Maximus IX Formula. Looks I can't really remove the shield while the graphics card is installed. The shield itself does act as a heatsink though. The problem is the case fans spin nice and slow because the GPU and CPU are happy and cool, so the M.2 isn't getting enough air. GN did some thermal testing with those. What seems to happen is that there's a slight temperature improvement for the top side of the M.2 drive, because it is in contact with the heat "sink" and still has some case airflow, but it actually increases the temperature on the bottom side of the M.2 drive because now there's zero airflow down there. well why not posted:I'ts only a matter of time before full-mobo waterblocks are a reality I'm picturing a tiny M.2 waterblock where the two fittings barely fit next to each other. But ya gotta cool the bottom side so it has to be more of a water sleeve than a block. But still has to fit the slot somehow. Mineral oil PC is the true way.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2017 15:31 |
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Goddamnit. I hate it when I imagine joke products that turn out to be real. Like https://sites.google.com/site/organicwhitequinoa5lbbag/organic-kale-powder---3lb-bag---kosher-non-gmo-gluten-free-vegan
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2017 23:17 |
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It's not a ton of power going in but these things have no surface area and m.2 in particular tend to be in areas without any real airflow. I had an ITX motherboard where it was on the back of the motherboard. Like, in that gap created by your standoffs.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2017 15:39 |
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Moey posted:They also make thermal pads for m.2 SSDs. No idea on how much they would help for the bottom side. Thermal pads form a medium between the heat source and heat sink, so a pad alone isn't going to accomplish anything?
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2017 17:22 |
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Collateral Damage posted:It's done! Bad idea.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2017 18:56 |
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I'm pondering a wall-mount PC type of setup. Are there any good "cases" out there premade for this or is that still more of a DIY niche these days?
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2018 17:55 |
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Don Lapre posted:Thermaltake Core p5 A case with a VESA mount! Now I've got a really stupid idea about putting a dual monitor mount up but with a computer floating on one of the arms.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2018 21:05 |
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Don Lapre posted:For your drain just gotta put it together before tubing and see where things go. I run mine inline with my tubing In the same case, I have the drain placed in the same spot, plus an extra drain at the bottom of the radiator. (alphacool XT45 480mm). Makes getting fluid out of the radiator much easier. Had to install a fill port on a T-split above the reservoir because my res/pump combo (XSPC D5 Photon) only has one port at the top and that's acting as an inlet. Makes filling a little more annoying.
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2018 20:50 |
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kloa posted:How does watercooling work if the rad has a smaller heat rating than the expected load? EK's custom loop guide shows a 4C difference if I go with just one large rad vs large+small in the back of the case. A GPU will be fine with a 240 rad.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 05:13 |
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Don Lapre posted:First hard tubing job, what a pain in the rear end. Should have charged more Looks good though! For tubes like the one you have running straight across from front rad to back rad, sometimes one of those dual 45 degree fittings can "zig" just enough so you don't have to bend the tube.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2018 01:28 |
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PerrineClostermann posted:I pretty much refuse to buy any thermaltake anything. They're all so cheesy, and their water cooling parts are all aluminum, aren't they? Everything they make is loving awful.
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2018 03:24 |
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ufarn posted:Are there any worthwhile pros to moving from fans to watercooling when it comes to dust? Radiators aren't any easier to clean. (and in most setups will have a larger surface area anyway) Set your fans so you have positive pressure and get the case up off the floor.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2018 21:12 |
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Yeah, GPUs seem to benefit a lot more in raw delta-t than CPUs. Because of the larger contact area I think??
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2018 17:38 |
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forbidden dialectics posted:
Deuce fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 28, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 28, 2018 15:44 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Use this radiator instead. I wonder how much one of these could handle as a passive radiator.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2019 23:29 |
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Coredump posted:I wonder if builds are going to start incorporating pipe manifolds like residential plumbing does but on a smaller scale. Not sure I'd see the advantage of that in a closed loop covering such a small space.
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# ¿ May 23, 2019 23:47 |
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What do you guys recommend for fan/pump control? Looking to get fan and pump speeds determined by coolant temperature, but my motherboard doesn't have a temperature sensor input.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2019 17:09 |
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skylined! posted:I uh, decided to do a cpu/gpu petg loop. ALL IN Soft tubing is much easier for a beginner, being far more forgiving. PETG is definitely easier to work with than acrylic, though, if you're going for hard tubing. And if you're really going to get into this hobby, you gotta learn to bend tubing eventually, right? You're going to get leaks on your first try. It's just part of the learning curve. Dumb question: I've abandoned my PCIe riser setup for vertically mounting the GPU. PCIe risers are a pain in the rear end and have caused me some problems. So I'm going back to card-in-slot. But in this orientation, I think SLI looks better because you can put a nice terminal front-facing on the GPUs. Example: However, I don't want to actually do SLI. SLI is dumb and wasteful. So I'm thinking of plugging in an old card in as if it's SLI and just leaving it disabled. (would have to find a compatible block) Even better would be not plugging in its power cables at all. My recollection is that PCs freak out when you try and boot with GPU power not plugged in. Will this be the case on a secondary graphics card, can that feature be disabled, and are their any issues that might arise from doing this?
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# ¿ Jun 25, 2019 02:43 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Now that I've ordered an NH-U14S for my Threadripper, to ditch the reservoir to make space for a gently caress-off huge graphics card, some Youtuber taunts me with this: I'm skeptical about the effectiveness of a tiny block/pump/reservoir combo.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2020 16:34 |
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Cloner of the Elks posted:How much air space do I really need to leave in the reservoir of a hard-line build? Some say none, others say 2cm. Some say leaving space creates more pressure, some say leaving less creates more pressure. My system is leak testing right now (so far, so good!) and I have about 1cm air at the top of the Corsair XD5 res. The pump creates the pressure and applies it to the liquid, not the other way around.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 03:30 |
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Rebuilt my system. New CPU/GPU/Motherboard. Case and loop stay the same. Ran overnight leak test, everything checks out good. Reboot system and start formatting drives to reinstall windows and start fresh. System hangs, blue screens. Then that burning plastic smell we all dread. Oh no what did I do? I didn't notice that the pump wasn't running. The CPU was overheating, the water block on it was hot to the touch. The good news is that the smell seems to have come from the pump itself. I guess it just chose this exact moment to burn itself out. I tried hooking it up to different power connectors, even an old PSU. No dice. I hope nothing else got fried, but I'm going to have to wait a week and a half to find out. I head out of town Tuesday morning and the local Microcenter doesn't have squat for pumps.
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2021 20:48 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 21:16 |
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Ak Gara posted:I think all new CPU's have very good shutdown protection so it's probably fine. Normally pump RPM dropping to zero would cause an alert. If, you know, that software wasn't in the process of being wiped from the drive.
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2021 22:13 |