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To supplement my computer janitor income at my 9-to-5 non-profit arts college in a shifty neighborhood, I sent a hail mary application to a highly-rated and well-respected garage in our neighborhood: Their website and store front have both been sporting the "NOW HIRING" badges for quite some time so I thought heck, I'll be honest with these guys and see if I can land a job. To my shock and delight Turbo Tim himself got back to me saying that he was at least willing to chat with me and see what we could offer each other. He's okay with me doing, in his words, "simple poo poo" for a while and working part-time in the garage. I'll be treated like all the other techs in the garage, but without the experience, certifications, or extensive catalog of tools. All of my work will be quality checked by someone who IS certified to make sure that the customers are getting what they've paid for and aren't leaving functionally-critical repairs up to some delusional schmuck. I start Wednesday. I don't yet own an impact driver or torque wrench. Grab your brandy snifter and pull up a wing-back chair, this is gonna be a good'un.
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# ? Sep 19, 2016 19:00 |
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# ? May 3, 2024 01:22 |
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Congrats! I met Tim when he was at his old shop a couple miles away, and have nothing but good things to say about him. Does he still have a turbo'd LS Volvo kicking around? How about the shoppe kitty?
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# ? Sep 19, 2016 19:06 |
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Gitty Up.
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# ? Sep 19, 2016 19:12 |
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I read this guys entire website when you were talking about it in either 14's thread or the chat thread. That dude knows how to run a business and I'm pretty jealous that you get to hang out with him. edit: also tell him to put "Brakes: $230 per axle" on /services/prices. It says "per axle" on /services/brakes, but /services/prices links from the car-shaped dollar image on the front page. It could definitely be a source of confusion, and he seems the type to try to eliminate confusion entirely. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 19, 2016 |
# ? Sep 19, 2016 19:15 |
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Day One, or, This is how I imagine a donkey would feel at a nice wedding. Woke early, but not early enough, in order to arrive and leave early from my day job. Shoved my tool chests into the back of my Golf, heaved my floor jack in there, and took off down the dusty trail. One of the chests had to be loaded sideways so I had was amounted to an enormous red Craftsman Maraca in my car. Took a run to the Hazard Fraught so I could finally own an impact driver. Snagged the EarthQuake 1/2", two 13-count sets of impact sockets (SAE and metric), and new gloves for $140 thanks to the power of internet coupons torn by hand while travelling in light traffic. The phone was ringing off the hook when I arrived, Tim himself was knee-deep in something or other and when I saw him buzz by the door, he looked as if he'd been scooping black tar from the ground with his arms. Never did find out what he was working on. He was plainly shocked that I showed up and appeared eager to work on cars. Met everyone who works there and introduced myself, they're all cool dudes and one cool dudette. A few have been there for years, some just for a few months. Made the rounds, decided that I should set up tools somewhere. So I did. There she sits. The smallest, least-equipped tool chest in the whole garage. Those two red boxes contain every tool that I own, and while it's a David among Goliaths, I think I've got enough in there to keep me going for a long time. Moving on. Jasper (a fake name) was the other newest employee at Turbo Tim's so he showed me around and gave me a list of things he wished he'd known on his first day. Job flow, mannerisms of other techs, which kitty smells bad, etc. Swanson (another fake name) is the well-oiled machine of the bunch. Takes whole vans apart in a day while working on 3 other cars, makes tons of money, built like a brick shithouse, the "guy to mimic" if I'm gonna make the most bank according to Jasper. This is a sticker on Swanson's toolbox: First task I was assigned was an oil change on one of the loaners, a 1999 V6 Mitsubishi Diamante: This thing smells like a 1990s rural Wisconsin bowling alley, and I mentioned as such in the tech notes. (A quick aside: by chance they happen to use a job tracking software with which I'm familiar and have worked on in the past for other small garages so that got some surprised nods from my new co-workers.) I hadn't anything else going on so I decided to use one of the grown-up ODB2 code readers: I was about to dive in on this but I was instructed by Jasper to hold off: techs don't get paid to work on loaners so it's not worth my time. (Another aside: Tim told me that I'll be making my pittance hourly wage UNLESS I do enough to work that commission exceeds that pittance. Point: Jasper.) I took his advice, did the oil change and got to use a car lift for the first time. As someone who doesn't trust things that can fall on or drop him, this was a bit nerve wracking. For the longest time I thought these lifts operated using a type of worm gear so in case of a hydraulic failure, the car wouldn't fall and kill someone. Nope, it's cables, just like the cable in Jurassic Park that let that Explorer plummet into the T-rex pen and nearly murder Timmy, Lex, and Dr. Grant. The oil change occurred without incident. Got the car back out into the pen and found that someone had taken the car inspection that I was scheduled for because these people need to make money and I'm just under foot. The guy who landed the used car inspection (whose name isn't Lars but that's what we'll call him) is a recent transplant from another Midwest rust-belt metropolis and has enjoyed his time at Turbo Tim's. Likes the work, loves the co-workers, smokes cigarettes (like everyone else does) while working on stuff, is extremely helpful and patient. The car that came in for inspection is one that MIGHT be purchased by a client, but wanted TT's to check it out. It's one of those Chevy Prisms with Toyota guts and I even mistook it for a Corolla for the first thirty minutes I was looking at it. Long story short on this boring econo-box is that it has a couple evap leaks, an oil leak from what appears to be an inspection cover on the passenger's side, and it should probably get its suspension replaced. To my surprise, Lars called me over for a second opinion on the car's accessory belt, and I'm not ashamed to say that it was a bit of an esteem boost to be asked my honest opinion about anything in there. One of the front office guys (whose fake name is Rivers) popped by during the inspection, waved a key at the three of us who had gathered around the Corolla-in-Chevy's clothing and asked who wanted to do a tire repair. I put my hand up immediately and got to work. I lucked out in that the wheel with the flat was already off of the car so I rolled it over to my station and pumped air into it and found the gaping hole right away. Jammed a plug in there, got it back on the Volvo in a personal record time (eager to impress, was I) and I even got to use my new Earthquake for the first time. It made the brap-brap-whirr noise and I loved it. I can't wait to use it again. Mmm, that noise. I'm savoring the moment because I know that if I do well enough here to make it less a fun learning experience and more a job, that the sound will turn sour in my ears and haunt my dreams, but that day is hopefully long into the future. After the tire repair, I milled around. Nothing much to do; Tim pointed out that since I'm only here 4 hours twice a week on non-consecutive days that I might not get any big projects. Once it gets too cold for TT and his family to spend time up north at their cabin, I'll be able to work Saturdays from 8 to noon and I could do more large projects then. Can't wait. Some photos I took of the shop while I puttered around: This Camaro body belongs to one of the front-office guys. He was making a lot of progress on it but suffered a non-work-place injury and the project stalled. It's suspended over a Blazer chassis with this engine waiting to go in: It looks so mean, that beaked look is one of my new favorites. Here we have the communal diagnostics/specialty tools rack: Beats me what's all in there, but I'm guessing "most things." This Ford is a customer's, not sure its status: It's rad as heck, I do say. There's an RX-7 with kitty paw prints on the back window and a SBC swap. This project belongs to one of the techs who's been there for a long time. He's one of the exceptions to the "don't store projects here" rule: Biggest turbo I ever seen with my own eyeballs: It's in a Dodge truck that's rusted like crazy; I'm surprised it has enough material left on it to get it up in the air. Mystery engine next to motorcycle: Wally Joyner posted:Congrats! I met Tim when he was at his old shop a couple miles away, and have nothing but good things to say about him. Does he still have a turbo'd LS Volvo kicking around? How about the shoppe kitty?
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 18:07 |
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Although most Rotary-style lifts are cable driven they do have automatic stops like an elevator. That's what the prang-prang-prang sound you hear when you're lifting a car is, and why you have to lift the car a bit to disengage the dogs(?) before you let it back down. The real danger from well-maintained lifts is when the weight balance of the car shifts dramatically, such as taking an engine out with the arms too far forward on the chassis.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 18:30 |
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Excellent. Along for the ride.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 18:30 |
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Welp, my girlfriend's grandma and aunt both passed away this week. Wake for grandma is on Friday, so I won't be able to make my shift because I'd rather be there for her. Sent an email to Tim, we'll see what he says. I reiterated to him that I'm beyond excited to keep working there, I hope he doesn't get upset or anything. Seat Safety Switch posted:Although most Rotary-style lifts are cable driven they do have automatic stops like an elevator. That's what the prang-prang-prang sound you hear when you're lifting a car is, and why you have to lift the car a bit to disengage the dogs(?) before you let it back down.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 22:14 |
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Congrats on the job - sounds like a cool place to work, even if it was just a short-term thing. When I hang out at my buddy's jeep shop I always almost ask for a job.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 23:21 |
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Congrats buddy. Those loud cracks are the locks letting you know there engaging. The sound of your impact will never get old. Mine is a sound I love hearing. I did drum brakes on an e250 today and it was the exact same as your vans. Enjoy Tim's it sounds like what my shop was before it was bought by Mr clean.....
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 00:14 |
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Looks like a great gig. Hell, the experience and being able to learn is worth it, regardless of the pay.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 00:32 |
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Awesome. Sounds like a really great guy. I'm lucky enough that my longtime mechanic has let me throw my car on his lifts a couple of times and basically let me do my thing so long as I threw him or some if it was a slow day. I was allowed to use his tools if I made sure to clean up after myself and put everything back where it came from, but I always brought mine with me. If you think getting under a car while it's on a lift is nerve wracking... try being in the car while it's going up. We were trying to figure out a weird noise from the transmission in my old car, and the only way to really do that was to shift it through the gears, running, on the lift, with him using a stethoscope while I "drove" it. I loving hate heights, I was pretty much making GBS threads myself. (it wound up being something in the diff... being FWD, that was basically a death sentence for the gearbox) (he's gotten busy enough that he has 2 full time techs and a full time receptionist, so I can't do that anymore.. he was a one man show back then)
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 07:10 |
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Great thread. Even though I make more money, have a pension, better benefits, and do less physical work now, I still miss wrenching on cars for a living. Good on you for finding a way to do it part time!
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 12:15 |
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some texas redneck posted:Awesome. Sounds like a really great guy. sitting up on a lift and revving the engine/going through the gears is like Six Flags for mechanics, it rules
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 12:44 |
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VikingSkull posted:sitting up on a lift and revving the engine/going through the gears is like Six Flags for mechanics, it rules We trapped a dude in a car for an entire day that way once. Had to pass him up a sandwich through the back window since that's all we could reach.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 14:23 |
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VikingSkull posted:sitting up on a lift and revving the engine/going through the gears is like Six Flags for mechanics, it rules Can confirm. It's hilarious and a unique perspective on a shop. :3
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 14:25 |
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some texas redneck posted:
Try one of these puppies on for size sometime. its... something.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:03 |
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Tim was very understanding about me taking the day off: "That's OK. Come in whenever." Took next Friday off of work so that I can do a full 12 hour day in the garage. I wanna get some big projects under my belt and what not, mostly so that I can learn a whole buncha stuff and show the team there that I'm ready to tackle whatever and that I'm not incompetent, just inexperienced. For those who don't know where I got the thread title. It's kinda my life theme song. Also I love baseball. edit: Tim's reply to me being in for 12 hours on Friday: quote:Awesome! You will have fun with a whole day. Give ya a chance to really get dirty! scuz fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Sep 24, 2016 |
# ? Sep 23, 2016 19:45 |
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cursedshitbox posted:
I wouldn't want to test out a vehicles driveline on that sort of lift, however.
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# ? Sep 24, 2016 10:17 |
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Tim sounds like a good dude, getchoo sum learnin'
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# ? Sep 24, 2016 10:35 |
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I sometimes wish I didn't have such a nice well-paying regular job, so I could get the chance to try out something like this...
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# ? Sep 24, 2016 10:47 |
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Day two's lesson: Six is greater than twelve. I would like to start by making sure that everyone knows about the glory and wonder that is Permatex Spray Nine Poly 500 Revolution hand cleaner. Another day, another tire plug. This time, it was for a repeat customer who also happens to be a local business and friend of TT'sAA. The tire I was assigned to plug was on a white Ford Ranger I passed on my way in to the shop. Took one look at it, saw that the tire was flatter than flat, and thought "that looks like something I'll have to do later." I'm so smart. A strong counter-point to that assertion is the fact that I didn't think of putting air into the tire enough so that I could drive it into the shop. Never occurred to me. Just thought "welp, tire's hosed" and floated around in a daze for minute or two, trying to decide whether I was supposed to just jack the truck up and put it on stands in the street. Tim saw me floating around and asked "looking for an air tank?" and it clicked immediately. "Sure am!" I lied. No drama getting the truck into the shop. Pulled the wheel off and was greeted with this: Having problems stare you in the face sure is nice. Patched, reattached, and stashed in 10 minutes or so. It was while I was driving the standard-cab Ranger that I came to a horrifying conclusion: I will not fit in a 1979-1984 Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup. It's been 15 hours since my realization and I still haven't fully absorbed the fact that I won't be able to drive my attainable-dream vehicle (or ADV) unless I take six inches out of my shins and grow two spare hands near my elbows. If my seventy-nine inch, two-hundred pound frame has to be folded three ways to get into and operate an automatic transmission American small truck, more agonizing anatomical origami is surely required to drive a manual transmission European compact pickup in anything resembling comfort. I rowed out to my white whale, but it had vanished. Now that the tire had been patched, I proceeded to the next task assigned to me: replace the pads and rotors on our new loaner, a 2000 LL Bean edition H6 Subaru Outback that had just had its head gaskets replaced by a senior mechanic at the shop whose nouns de plume shall be Doyle. Doyle told me all about how horrible that job was. I recalled for him some stories from my "automotive enthusiasts" forum about head gaskets on the 6-cylinder boxer engines. The exchange of abject misery and the fact that I was also a sucker for VAG products (Doyle's whip is a 1999 Audi A4 which he will sometimes take ice racing) endeared me to him a bit I think. I rolled Red over to the lift upon which I had perched the LL Bean edition and got to work. The front end went fine with the exception of the LL Bean edition dual-piston calipers. I had never worked on dual-piston calipers but was immediately introduced to the problem of compressing one piston only to see the other extend. Doyle saw my confusion and produced the tool designed to compress both at the same time. Getting to the business of the rears was a different story. The LL Bean edition taught me a few things and I will enumerate here the two most critical:
My next shift is tomorrow, Friday the 30th, from 8AM to 8PM. I've added "ratcheting combination wrenches" to my wish list. Tim's mentions of book rate versus my hourly are making me excited because I had to pay bills yesterday, which made me very sad.
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# ? Sep 29, 2016 20:17 |
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Head gaskets on an EZ30? Something else is hosed in there, maybe the water pump. While we're on the subject of Subaru caliper brackets, you should be aware that any of the STIs with Brembos have cheese-soft threads in there and you should expect having to Helicoil them when you try to pull the bolts. For the backwards-facing large bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to the hub spindle, I usually use a conventional box-end wrench and just hit the wrench with a hammer (I prefer a three-pound Home Depot mini-sledge for work inside the wheel-wells) to loosen the bolts. I've never had success with a ratchet. Also clean out the star adjuster on the back before you try to snug up the parking brake after replacing rotors. I usually spray brake cleaner into it until the drips come out clean. Any grit on that fucker will make your day take twice as long. While you're in the rear wheel wells of most pre-02 Subarus you should also check the fuel filler neck for corrosion to avoid comebacks for an EVAP code when the neck finally does rot through. It's sort of a sucky job but it's better that you let the customer know now rather than later. A lot of Subaru owners will also keep pumping gas after the pump clicks off (despite what the warning stickers inside the gas door tell you) and that ends up with raw fuel inside the charcoal canister which eventually means a hosed charcoal canister and vent valve. Sounds like you're killing it. Keep it up! Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Sep 29, 2016 |
# ? Sep 29, 2016 20:20 |
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Glad you learned the 6 vs 12 point socket on rusty bolts lesson early, I learned that one late (and occasionally relearn it) and it's a great way of chowdering 6 point rusty bolts into 0 point rusty bolts. I use a bigass C clamp and one of the old brake pads to compress dual piston calipers. It's not ideal, but I have to do it so rarely (the only cars I work on with dual pistons are Forester ones, and they only get brakes under my ownership about every 50-60k miles) that I haven't seen fit to buy a special tool for it yet.
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# ? Sep 29, 2016 22:03 |
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kastein posted:I use a bigass C clamp and one of the old brake pads to compress dual piston calipers. It's not ideal, but I have to do it so rarely (the only cars I work on with dual pistons are Forester ones, and they only get brakes under my ownership about every 50-60k miles) that I haven't seen fit to buy a special tool for it yet. Honestly this method has worked so well for me I use it for single-piston calipers too. Saves some time with having to unwind the caliper from the base of the piston.
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# ? Sep 29, 2016 22:08 |
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If the rotors are being replaced as well I like to just jam a screw driver between the old pad and rotor and compress them that way. Worked on my 4 piston tundra calipers.
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# ? Sep 29, 2016 23:18 |
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Seconding old pad and c-clamp trick. My dad taught it to me years ago while doing a brake job on his work truck and I've always done it since. Also, gently caress twelve point sockets with a smelly cheese ridden dick. I keep a full set of 6 point impact sockets in close reach while working on poo poo because even in rust free areas, bolts round off easy as gently caress with those 12 point sockets and most cheap open ended wrenches. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Sep 30, 2016 |
# ? Sep 30, 2016 10:23 |
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scuz posted:I will not fit in a 1979-1984 Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup. Sounds like you've got a good gig there, enjoy it Also gently caress 12 point sockets forever. I've done my best to remove them from my garage
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 12:51 |
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Size and quality are factors as well. Most good sockets now are some flavour of wall drive, and on larger fittings I've often had the fastener shear before the hex rounded, even with 12 point sockets. Also, something that's really rusty may have lost enough material to corrosion that even a good socket the "right" size will slip. gently caress internal hex as a wrenching configuration on anything in less than perfect conditions, though. Torx and XZN are much better. I'd say to consider getting some Irwin bolt grip removal sockets, which cut into the remains of the head to wrench on it. They've saved me a few times on truly atrocious examples, as has welding a bigger nut onto the end of what I'm trying to undo (this has the added benefit of dumping heat into it). https://youtu.be/o7tGM8_OtCc
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 12:52 |
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InitialDave posted:I'd say to consider getting some Irwin bolt grip removal sockets, which cut into the remains of the head to wrench on it. They've saved me a few times on truly atrocious examples[/url] Good to know that someone thinks it's a good tool, though. =/
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 12:58 |
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InitialDave posted:gently caress internal hex as a wrenching configuration on anything in less than perfect conditions, though. Torx and XZN are much better. Holy poo poo this. OP if you ever have to encounter internal hex / allen bolts, use allen sockets NOT allen keys. If it's giving you trouble, put some valve lapping compound on the allen socket.
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 13:48 |
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Agreed. The only redeeming feature of allen heads is that rounding them out makes a nice shiny spot to strike an arc on with the welder, and if you know what you're up against and bought replacement bolts ahead of time, you can find the smallest Torx bit that won't slide in, hammer the bastard in, and spin the bolt right out. Also, ALWAYS clean Allen and Torx bolt heads out with a dental pick and brakleen before you even try, and make sure you get the bit fully seated in the bolt, tap it with a hammer if necessary. A mm or two of gunk in the bottom of the head can result in a broken bit or a stripped bolt head very very easily. e: I guess the other redeeming feature is that the torx/allen socket in the head is perfectly centered and makes a great spot to start the drilling when you round it out. Too easy to get off center on a hex bolt.
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 17:28 |
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kastein posted:Agreed. The only redeeming feature of allen heads is that rounding them out makes a nice shiny spot to strike an arc on with the welder, and if you know what you're up against and bought replacement bolts ahead of time, you can find the smallest Torx bit that won't slide in, hammer the bastard in, and spin the bolt right out. Orange dremel bits make short work of stripped torx. Also if they're under load still they make a lovely explosive exit right at your face.
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 18:49 |
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Re: Retracting caliper pistons, my favorite method is to remove the outer pad, slap the caliper back on (not bothering to bolt the caliper slides up or anything) and stick a heel bar between the rotor and caliper. I find it saves a massive amount of time and effort vs. Channel locks or c clamps. E: Also I've never seen a Permatex hand cleaner that would clean anything greasier than a 16 year olds forehead. Worx, Nitro Gold (or one of the numerous knockoffs of that formula) or gently caress it I'll wash up at home. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Sep 30, 2016 |
# ? Sep 30, 2016 18:50 |
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Opening the bleed screw makes it easier to push the pistons back in plus you aren't sending the old fluid back up the lines.
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 20:03 |
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jamal posted:Opening the bleed screw makes it easier to push the pistons back in plus you aren't sending the old fluid back up the lines. But adds 20 more minutes per bleeder due to rust. Heat try to loosen repeat till fluid comes or rust wins and just snapps the head off the bleeder.
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# ? Sep 30, 2016 20:12 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:Also gently caress 12 point sockets forever. I've done my best to remove them from my garage I started out using my dad's 12 point set, and then had my own stupidly cheap one. My life got objectively better when I discovered the glory of 6 point sockets. Imagine, a socket actually shaped like the bolt head! With breaker bars or other fixed handles I can see the convenience of 12 point sockets. With ratcheting ones, I do not see any real need for them. InitialDave posted:gently caress internal hex as a wrenching configuration on anything in less than perfect conditions, though. Torx and XZN are much better. Torx all the way! I haven't actually worked in the right spot on a car new and fancy enough to encounter XZN in the wild yet. I expect that when I do, I'll be digging around for that old 12 point socket set (if external) or use torx/hex bits (if internal) and try to get away with massive cheating, and only after ruining something go and acquire the proper tools. I think there might be some XZN in the newer Volvos of some close relatives, so that time will surely come.
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# ? Oct 1, 2016 06:28 |
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VIM makes a good set of XZN's. VW CV bolts and head bolts will teach you to spend the dough on good bits. Definitely clean the heads out though, any dirt will pretty much guarantee a stripped fastener.
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# ? Oct 1, 2016 12:19 |
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Also, XZN are triple-square 12pt, not double-hex. The geometry is different.
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# ? Oct 1, 2016 16:50 |
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# ? May 3, 2024 01:22 |
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Yeah, XZN is 90 degree points and a cross-flat to cross-point ratio of 1.414 while 12pt is 60 degree points and a ratio of... 1/0.832 I think? Not sure. You will essentially be point loading the bolt with minimal contact and are almost guaranteed to round them off.ionn posted:I started out using my dad's 12 point set, and then had my own stupidly cheap one. My life got objectively better when I discovered the glory of 6 point sockets. Imagine, a socket actually shaped like the bolt head! I run into 12 point bolts regularly (Ford rear diff pinion companion flange bolts, ford front driveshaft cv yoke bolts, jeep 4.0 headbolts, one bolt on jeep tcases, jeep unit bearing bolts, the list goes on...) so I kinda have to have 12 point sockets. I default to using them unless I need the impact or look at a bolt and go "yeah, that's rusty enough I'm hosed if I don't find my 6 point". kastein fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Oct 1, 2016 |
# ? Oct 1, 2016 16:54 |