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Hi, I sell beds now. Ask questions and I'll answer as honestly as I can; if I don't answer a question, it's because I'm worried that my response could put my job in jeopardy. If any goons in the greater KC area are looking for beds, shoot me a PM and I'll try to offer direct advice. Fair warning, I've never gotten a chance to tear any online only mattresses apart; I'm hella interested in Purple mattresses. They're so hush-hush on their proprietary polymer that it makes it impossible to compare against.
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Apr 26, 2017 04:51
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signalnoise posted:You can get little samples of the material. When I pressed a hammer into it, it did this: My biggest problem with Purple is that their marketing is so brilliant that it is difficult to get any real, substantive information. Any of the traditional vendors we work with will supply us with intimate details regarding their beds' specs. Purple illustrates a nonsensical (but visually impressive) "egg test," for example. I'm actually trying to rationalize purchasing one of their chair cushions so I can get a large enough bit of their material that I can use it. I might also put it to some tests of my own devising, that I can do to floor models or something.
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Apr 26, 2017 05:16
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signalnoise posted:Just buy a cushion or something from them if you wanna try out the material. The best way I can explain how it feels good is that while foam can support you well, and it compresses, it doesn't STRETCH. The effect of stretching cannot be overstated here. If you're a heavy person, or a side sleeper, or both, you need the bed to create basically a sharp dip in the surface. When you do this, it increases the surface area of the mattress. The purple material can be squished at much sharper angles than other mattresses, which allows you to be cradled for support, as the material presses against you over more area of your body. This reduces the maximum pressure exerted against your body, because you are spreading that pressure more evenly, against more surface area. That makes it sound as if they found an alternative way to get the same effects of really high end memory foam. That's very cool, and sounds promising. I would really be interested in hearing about the beds' longevity, as it's an entirely new material. Imaduck posted:What would you consider an actual objective measurement of anything about beds? It seems like outside of the type of bed it is, there are very few things to actually compare them on. Everybody talks about amazing construction and space-age polymers and spring counts and all that bullshit, and then maybe there are some arbitrary ratings of firmness, but none of that seems particularly useful. I'll be the first to admit my bias, given my job. However, if we're talking innersprings, knowing coil gauge, coil density, and number of turns in a coil should tell you everything you need to know about how firm or accommodating the metal layer of the bed is. Beautyrest has more turns in their coils than Serta, for example, so they tend to feel firmer in general. BR then has different coil gauges based on whether we're talking firm or plush beds. Finally, they have different coil counts based on the quality level of the bed in question (Recharge has fewer coils than World Class, for example). Foams are much more complicated, as the manufacturers have many more proprietary materials than anywhere else. The go-to for foams would be density and cellular structure. The higher density, the firmer the foam. The larger the cellular structure, the more airflow and thus the more temperature-neutral the foam will be. High density + large structure foams are the most expensive because they are the most difficult to make. And then consider all of the add-ins (diamonds, metals, phase change material), and foam gets rapidly out of control.
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Apr 26, 2017 15:29
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shame on an IGA posted:get a purple or tuft & needle mattress 2 day shipped and use it on the floor I've tried a TN mattress recently; I was not impressed. I can't weigh in on Purple, but that lawsuit is likely to bring some poo poo down on the company hard due to byproducts of its manufacture. My on-the-floor solution was a foam topper instead of an air mattress when my parents-in-law visited last holiday season. 
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May 7, 2017 02:20
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KoB posted:I was thinking about giving Purple a try but when theyre being so weird about this powder and instead of telling people whats in it theyre suing mattress reviewers doesnt leave me with much confidence. Purple has joined into an agreement with Mattress Firm, and so they will likely be available to try in store in a few weeks/months. There was a really big [anemic] press event where Mattress Firm brought in Steve Wozniak to reveal products. Unfortunately, most all of the products were already carried, but sure why not. jon joe posted:So far this thread has been recommending mattresses with an emphasis on economical, but if I were willing to spend thousands instead of hundreds, could I actually find better quality in terms of comfort and health? Or are all needs more or less optimized for within the hundreds range and spending more is like buying gold-plated cables? Speaking as someone who knows entirely too much about beds, there are noticable increases in quality with more traditional bedding as you step up in price. Important breakpoints are ~$500 (I would strongly recommend against getting beds in this price range for everyday use for adults), ~$1k, and $2k. For example, if you look at the difference between a $700 beautyrest and a $1200 beautyrest, you'll find both more foam and a higher coil count (meaning better support, comfort, and durability), and you would see a similar bump in quality going up to the $1700 BR mattress. Once you move beyond it, though, the coil count tends to be somewhat similar, and instead price increases come from more sophisticated comfort layers and supplemental support layers. If you've got specific needs, I can make some recommendations. I'm well acquainted with the biggest brands, and most of their product lines.
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May 11, 2017 17:46
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Texibus posted:Anyone sleep on a Casper? Been thinking of getting one. Target acquired Casper not too long ago. By this point, most Targets (at least the big ones) should have Casper mattresses available to try. I'm going to try to keep my professional opinions to myself regarding beds in a box so I can feel less like a shill. 
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Jul 26, 2017 05:32
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:I'm sending my Leesa back. Back to pillow tops. It really depends on what you want out of the bed. Generally speaking, you'll be spending at least $650ish for a good-enough pillow top. If you chip in about $1k you can get some good stuff from most places. I sell a fairly high amount of pillowtops and plush mattresses around the $1k-$1.3k range, and they're quite good mattresses. I can make a few recommendations, but I'm somewhat hesitant to point blank give away my credentials willy-nilly, but that's because of the paranoia that graduate school instilled in me wrt personal info online. Shoot me a PM if you want some ~expert advice~. You wouldn't be the first one I've helped. 
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Aug 9, 2017 04:06
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Chuu posted:Any advice for obese side/stomach sleepers? I actually was talking to the guy who runs the sleepopolis blog and he suggested avoiding foam/latex designs because they will probably have lifetime issues with "heavy sleepers". The fact that most seem to have a max weight capacity on their twin beds between 200 and 300 pounds supports this. I almost pulled the trigger on a WinkBed on his suggestion, and noticed they actually do make a bed for obese sleepers, specifically [*excepted from an e-mail]: Likely I would steer you towards foam that is high density. It should be durable enough to handle whatever weight you may be, without any long-term issues. Latex, I have no opinion or professional experience on. If you want to lean towards traditional mattresses, I'd suggest a firm pillowtop. If you have the money (or financing capability), the Beautyrest Black lines or Legend lines should be plenty durable enough. Black beds all have triple braided coils, while Legend beds have a half-inch layer of latex to assist with durability (my only experience with latex). Depending on your weight, you may want a bed labeled as a firm (coils are stouter). High density foams are going to be pricey, and both of those BR lines will have a premium. "Firm" generally designates the firmer (read: thicker) coil, with cushion firm and luxury firm designating a softer top on the firm coil.
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Aug 18, 2017 03:04
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Chillyrabbit posted:Trying to debate between the Ikea latex mattress or the purple since that seems to be a fan favorite. Anyone want to way in on the pros and cons of either of them? Latex is good and very durable as long as it doesn't get wet. In general, it doesn't disapate heat very well, but if that doesn't matter for you, go hog wild. I'm unfamiliar with the exact mattress you have your eye on, I just know that Ikea tends towards ultra-firm (for Americans) mattresses. Purple, in contrast, seems to be quite soft. I can't speak to the cooling properties of Purple products, as their weird polymer layer is certifiably unique. Mattress sales is a highly lucrative business, and (ecommerce, especially) is cutthroat as gently caress. Their add campaigns, as a rule, tend to be very colorful, trendy, and derogatory towards any and all competitors. I don't know how much Casper may have changed since being acquired by Target, but Tuft & Needle and Purple seem to enjoy a no-holds-barred approach to their advertising. Brick-and-mortar stores, in my experience, tend to be tamer because of the actual human face-to-face interaction. Not always, of course, but the meanness is on a much smaller scale.
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Oct 26, 2017 16:18
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Ciaphas posted:I know they roll up the foam mattresses at IKEA for delivery; are those (in queen) small enough when packed up to be brought home in a standard sedan or do they not roll up that small? I'd like to be able to pick one up first thing tomorrow without having to rent a truck if I can. If it's a bed in a box product (e.g., Tuft & Needle, Casper, Leesa, etc.) then it will be vacuum sealed in a small box and will fit anywhere. If it's just tightly rolled, then it might be ok? Ikea mattresses tend to be on the thin side, so you'll *probably* be alright. Sleep Number is a definite love-it-or-hate it product. Latex is hella expensive if it's good, and will generally be quite firm, since latex has very little give on its own. I have personally had a lot of success showing ex-sleep number folks to all foam options, though they seem to be less than impressed with inexpensive options. I would caution you to consider a higher density foam (try not to dip much below 4 lbs density, if possible) given your weight. In my experience, lower density foam does not support a heavier individual very well.
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Dec 27, 2017 06:15
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TLG James posted:Side sleepers seem to get ignored by a lot of the mattress companies. Seems like a lot of the bed in a box places are made for back sleepers. I've been looking into Brooklyn Bedding or SleeponLatex. As a bed salesguy, generally we recommend going on the softer side for side sleepers--whether foam or traditional or hybrid. Essentially, the weight distribution of side sleepers puts a lot of compression on a relatively small area. Pressure relief is very important for that reason, to minimize discomfort (and/or circulation issues) in shoulders and hips. You don't see much accommodation towards side sleepers from beds in a box, as they are generally all foam; they're often some variation of firm. They tend towards firm because common knowledge is that firm is always better (this is patently untrue btw). Purple seems like it would be ok, as would some of the better Leesa mattresses. I think Casper is trying to design something more accommodating for side sleepers, but their company has done some mega shifty bullshit with regards to how they conduct business. Aside from T&N having a garbage product, and Casper being an underhanded company, I don't have a lot of feelings concerning other online only companies. tim0mit posted:I bought a Leesa a few months ago. My wife finds it too firm but I like it ok. It's good at not transferring motion. It seems better than the similarly priced spring mattresses we tried. All foam is always very good at reducing motion transfer. Chances are that the coil based units you were looking at had some measure of connected coils, which is butts at preventing motion transfer. Literally any all foam product will be good at isolating each person's movement by virtue of the way it is constructed. Connected coils are the worst for this. Individually wrapped coils are pretty OK at this. Foam is the best, with some foams being better than others.
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Jan 6, 2018 06:37
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Yo I don't really want to shill out, but the Firm has a baller sale going on beds in a box. tulo (the biab we got to compete directly with Tuft & Needle, Leesa, etc.) is half off-ish through almost the rest of February. If you were looking for a cheap queen/king mattress of decent quality that you want to try in a store, this is a stupid good time to do it. It follows the King for Queen/Queen for Twin pricing to the letter. I feel not so bad about shilling out here because we make basically no money on those sales, so go nuts.
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Feb 13, 2018 05:26
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SKULL.GIF posted:I've been looking at getting a new mattress recently, as I finally got well-paying work and am moving into a new place. I spent several hours yesterday going around to places and trying out mattresses -- unfortunately, most retail locations offer mattresses in the $3 to $7 thousand range, which is both well outside what I can afford and very likely overpriced. Where the gently caress are you shopping that you're finding iComforts for that price? Those have very specific guidelines from Serta for pricing purposes. The most expensive iComfort we sell is roughly 2.5k, so I have no idea what you were looking at there. Purple seems to be the best bed in a box product, as far as I can tell. Lots of the foams in other biab products seem to be underwhelming in the price/performance department. Most decent foam products will include some type of active cooling properties (i.e., phase change material), so that is not at all unique to Serta iComforts. I always feel awkward making many posts in the thread (given that I work for one of those big bed companies), because I'm not going to shill out, but I'm always lurking to answer questions that folks may have.
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Apr 23, 2018 03:52
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unknown posted:Quick 9mo review of a Sealy we bought: Sealy Posturepedic Proback Firm King (I forget the exact model name, but it changes on a monthly basis it seems). Like a $1k We used to sell a Sealy cushion firm model that is very close to what you described. It was a very reliable mattress with no frills that we sold all the time and felt good about. Assuming you worked with someone, they should have put you on the plush model instead of the firm (unless you are willing to cash out ~$150 or more for a topper, it is almost certainly a lesser quality than the mattress's foam). The core support system in posturepedic models is kinda cool, but unless they've made significant changes in the last couple of years, it's basically a layer of foam in the weightlifting belt region. Higher dollar models will make changes to the coil unit in that region, but in the $1k and below region, it was often just more foam there. $1k is actually on the lower end of midrange, but there's been some upheaval lately, and that's gravitating more towards the middle of the middle now. For context, the basic heuristic is: up to $1k is lower range; $1k - $2.5k is midrange; $2.5k and up is luxury.Capn Beeb posted:How do y'all feel about Saatva? I have no strong feelings about Saatva. I know relatively little about their product. Tuft & Needle and Casper are tied for worst online bed companies in my eyes; Purple likely the best. All of the others fall somewhere in the middle. I have personally worked with folks who have purchased beds from all the major online companies who were disappointed, I just despise T&N's product AND their marketing, and I think that Casper is one of the scummiest companies I've read about lately. It's hard to judge online bedding retailers as they rarely provide actual specs of their models. It is extraordinarily frustrating. Oxyclean posted:This is post is from awhile back but I'm wondering - where does the Ikea Sultan Hallen fall into? It's described as a "pocket spring" with high resistance foam. I've had it for a few years and it's mostly been fine - but I'm not out like a light / dying to stay in bed but that might just be the kind of sleeper I am. That post flies in the face of virtually all of my experience, so you should be aware that there is variation even within groups of dudes who sell beds. His post sounds like someone disillusioned who doesn't like his job and/or who works for supervisors who care more about driving dollars (i.e., is hardcore retail) rather than taking care of customers (which is our philosophy here). Wrapped coils are the best coils. If you are getting something with a connected coil, it is not great. Ikea beds are always extremely firm (at least for American tastes), but if you have had it for a while with no complaints, then it's A-OK in my book. That being said, if you're starting to get pulled into an area of the mattress overnight, and it's causing discomfort, it's time to start looking again. At the very least, a mattress should allow you to sleep well throughout the night, and when that goes away--and you know it's just the mattress causing the difficulty--it's time to start looking for a new one. You may want to try looking into a new pillow first, though, and maybe save some money. If most of your problem is concentrated around your neck/shoulder, likely your pillow is not providing the correct amount of support. If your pillow felt great when your mattress is new and now does not, your pillow is likely a bit too lofty and is craning your head upwards slightly now. I'd be happy to make suggestions if you want to toss out exactly what's going on either in PM or here. I can make general suggestions, or I can make suggestions from our inventory, whichever you prefer!
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May 1, 2018 14:57
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with all the extras (box/frame). Higher end of the medium level mattresses from what I could tell (Synastren can probably give more details). Pocket coil with a thinner foam/latex layer than others.
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Thanks for the assist on the Casper article Thanatosian. That was exactly what I was going to bring up.Oxyclean posted:It didn't seem terribly firm, at least not compared to my old bed which I've had since I was a teen. Actually kind of surprised that mattress has held up for how long I've had it - I tried sleeping on it recently and it just felt firm as hell compared to what I have now. (I dont think the firmness was a problem in the past - I got the current mattress because I wanted something bigger.) My step mom suggested the particular model because she liked it and I want to say said it kept cooler better then foam style mattresses. Re: bed firmness If you have a fairly old mattress (somewhere from the 90s or early 2000s) chances are good it was quite firm. Things have softened up a lot since everyone has embraced individually wrapped coils in some form or fashion. So if you're comparing a recent Ikea mattress with wrapped coils against a firm connected coil, what you describe is exactly what I would expect. Re: pillows I would suggest trying some sort of shredded foam pillow, or some latex foam pillows. Your local bed place should have something like those available to try. Expect a good pillow to be costly, though it will likely be worth it, and is significantly cheaper than a decent mattress. The down pillow folks I've worked with generally prefer either a very soft memory foam pillow (for the squish), or one of the options I suggested (as it is more fluffy). unknown posted:Eh, my previous bed was more plush, and I'm a toasty sleeper, so less padding is better. And there's supposed to be a different coil density in the middle (http://www.sealycanada.com/en/proback-series.html). I did not realize that Sealy Canada had completely different bedding lines. The more you know! And I know nothing about bed prices or product lines outside of the United States! The cheaper Sealys that have different coil densities in the middle area do it through honeycombing the coils--essentially, instead of having coils in merely a grid, they are nested together. The higher end Sealys actually have more numerous coils in a grid or nested. The nesting thing did not exist in the lines we carried, so I'm less familiar, but it's becoming a more widespread technique across manufacturers. I think your bed is a pretty solid one, though I'm not certain how it rates compared to what I have available to compare with, andm since I lack a Sealy rep, I don't know a direct comparison.
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May 2, 2018 02:57
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Capn Beeb posted:That sounds like what I'm after alright, now I just need to figure out what makes a good pillow good and where to get some Pillows are tricky beasts, best tried and coupled with your mattress, as the same pillow will feel a bit different on a different mattress. Unfortunately, that's not usually a possibility with online mattress purchases. Short heuristics to finding the right pillow: The thickness should be determined by how you most commonly sleep. Thickest for side sleepers, thinner for back sleepers, thinnest for stomach sleepers. The goal of a pillow is to fill the space between your head and your mattress. You want to try to keep your spine roughly aligned, especially near the base of your neck. The most common neckache issues are due to a pillow that is either too tall or too short. The squish of a pillow is the most subjective part. In general, I find that folks who gravitate towards softer beds like the feel of firmer pillows more, and vice versa. If you're not spending at least $20 on a pillow, it will likely be garbage--imo $40 is a good starting point for a decent quality pillow. ed: Almost forgot about the one thing folks don't usually consider with respect to pillow: weight. For example, I've heard nothing but good things about the Purple pillow... except that it weighs roughly 10 lbs.
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May 5, 2018 14:53
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SKULL.GIF posted:The mattress didn't seem like it slept hot, though last night wasn't really a good barometer to use as it wasn't really that warm here where I live. I didn't wake up sweaty or uncomfortable, at least. I'd be super interested if sleeping hot is something you encounter. I have limited experience with folks who actually have a Purple mattress. Given your comments about a boxspring, are you European? Your experience with their pillow is extremely common of anyone getting a new, good quality pillow. Since so many folks are used to buying cheap pillows, getting something with substance feels completely different and pretty freaking wonderful. I'm glad everything seems to be working so well for you, though! By the way, not all memory foam will be soft and enveloping. Some of the firmest mattresses in my showroom are straight foam. And Purple's marketing is goddamn brilliant, if completely, utterly exaggerated. Edge encasement is super standard, but I'm actually a little surprised if it extends up to the top of the mattress. Most foam mattresses will not have encasements around the memory foam layers simply to make sure it does not interfere with function.
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May 9, 2018 15:05
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Oxyclean posted:With Purple/memory foam mattresses: Does something need to go under them? My IKEA pocketed spring mattress had a foundation (which I think is basically just a slatted base?) that it sits on - would it be a problem to re-use that for a memory foam mattress? Your slats need to be closer than 3" apart (maybe 2" for purple) to be considered a platform base. Any foundation is required to provide even support to the mattress. Lots of vendors will handwave how their foundation is specially made for their mattresses (Beautyrest's foundation is legit impressive for what it's worth) to provide support, but they will use a different brand's foundation to evade a warranty claim. In other words, if they can blame someone else's product for their mattress failing, they totally will. Platform bases (including adjustables) are unique in that they are universally accepted as A-OK for providing support. Now, Purple has their own platform base, so they might be squirrelly about foundations. I don't have specific insight into their product and warranty; sorry. Related: Mattress warranties never cover standard wear and tear. There is generally a specific criterion to meet for a particular type of overwear--1.5 inch impression in a coil based mattress is industry standard for warranty issues, for example. SKULL.GIF posted:No, I'm American. What about my comments about the boxspring sounds European? Oh. From what I understand (I would love being corrected) actual box springs are more common in Europe than the US. Actual springs in the foundation would affect the feel of the mattress, while hard foundations do not. If your sleeping condition continues to be overly warm, I'll make a few general accessory recommendations when we get there, if you like! Encasement only around the top? That must be a firm loving foam core, holy poo poo. Spikes32 posted:So I was thinking of getting a purple mattress, and went to their website to find the new purple queen is $1100 ($2100) more than the old style queen ($1000). Did it really change that much? I read through the marketing, but know most of it is over inflated malarkey. $1k for a quality mattress is actually a very decent and fair price.
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May 10, 2018 03:14
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guaranteed posted:It's been great so far. They seem to be out of stock now, and I have no idea whether they'll come back, but I figured I'd give in my input. It sounds like they're similar to the Purple, both firm and soft, but entirely lacking in edge support, which has taken some getting used to. Once upon a time we had some sort of memory foam topper on our mattress and I was so hot I couldn't stand it, but this doesn't seem any hotter than the conventional mattress. The edge support on that mattress seems like it's less about support and more about just making the side of the bed look nice. And it is the same temperature as a conventional mattress because it is a conventional mattress, it just came vacuum sealed in box.
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May 14, 2018 03:06
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Dillbag posted:Anyone have experience with Zinus mattresses? Top rated on Amazon with queens coming in at $399 CDN. I'm moving to Los Angeles for work for the next 13-ish months but maintaining our primary residence in Canada, so I don't want to spend a fortune on something I'm going to get rid of a year from now. We currently have a Casper and we like it, but I can sleep on pretty much anything and my wife prefers a firmer mattress. The main thing I'm concerned about is the heat we're going to experience in LA in the summers, especially reading that foam mattresses tend to retain heat. If you're both that light, and you're looking at foam beds in a box, I hope you like firm mattresses. Unless a given foam mattress either has decent quality foam that is super soft (not going to happen in a bed in a box) or the foam is sub par (more likely, but like a 50/50 shot with biab), they trend towards firm. poo poo, the softest bed in a box I carry would be a cushion firm if it were in any other category. ed: Given your size, go to a Mattress Firm and try the Sleepy's Calm. That bed will work well for you in your situation, I think. But seriously, gently caress that bed. It's price is too good for its feel. Synastren fucked around with this message at 14:48 on May 14, 2018 |
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May 14, 2018 14:43
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Amara posted:Has anyone looked into just ordering your own foam and latex layers and putting them into a mattress case? It seems super easy, you can fiddle with different layers yourself for max comfort, and I'd probably put reject layers into a guest bed that would end up at least as comfortable on average as a random bed in a box. Make sure if you're doing that you also invest in some sort of flame retardant barrier. Foam and stuff is quite flammable without any countermeasures. Any manufactured mattress is required to have some sort of barrier to stop it, usually in the form of a sock that's stitched just under the fabric or the top layers of foam. Though if you're ripping rejected bits of foam, you might be able to get a flame retardant barrier as well.
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May 15, 2018 04:25
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movax posted:Looking at the Queen3 as a side-sleeper (5’10”, 170lb), added it to cart but didn’t put in an e-mail or anything; where do they send the code? A lot of online stores will do that to convert people they think were going to buy but got second thoughts. The e-commerce side of my company will do that if we get full quotes in our system with email addresses. They will contact the guest, offer absurd discounts that are nearly below cost (as they get paid differently than actual sales staff), and completely gently caress the person who did all the work in the store. It takes ~3 days before our online vultures strike, so probably about that long.
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May 30, 2018 04:58
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movax posted:So far I just have a cutesy email saying “oh man, we’ll feed your cart to Sasquatch if you’re not back in 24h!”. A bit silly to wait for $50 but hey, $50 is $50. You'll probably get a 50/50 shot of them caving in and giving you a discount, or them telling you to gently caress off. They run the risk of making it the norm for their customers to hold out for a few days, expecting a discount, if they cave to you publicly. Memorial Day is one of the biggest mattress sales days of the year, so it may be pushed back more than usual in this particular part of the year, honestly.
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May 30, 2018 17:47
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Stevie Lee posted:I didn't think to check SA while doing my research, but I just ordered a Brooklyn Bedding Signature (full, medium) for $670-ish with their memorial day coupon. I spent about two weeks deciding between the Tuft and Needle and 100 others (including a local factory that I'm going to feel guilty about not buying from) before saying gently caress it and going with the Brooklyn. It seemed like the best value after I decided I didn't want something that was just straight foam. I feel like I know less about mattresses now than when I started researching them, though. If anyone is interested I can report back once it arrives and I've slept on it a bit. I generally try to stay out of online bed conversations, but there are two specific vendors I'll say to steer clear of: Tuft & Needle (their poo poo is expensive for how low quality their components are, and I have serious concerns about their durability) Casper (the company is/was crooked as poo poo, see previously linked investigative journalism) Zinus' platform frames are highly regarded. Platform frames can be surprisingly durable despite appearances if they are metal. Ours supposedly support 1200 lbs per frame (though I wouldn't personally suggest more than 900 lbs), including mattress. In queen size or larger, that translates to 2400 lbs for the whole thing, if evenly distributed. No idea about how good they are at concentrated weight or sudden impacts, though. Oxyclean posted:I ended up ordering a Leesa - hopefully arriving tomorrow! I think the existing foundation (Ikea Sultan Aram) I have has slats closer to 4-5in apart, might have to measure again to be sure, but it certainly seemed more then 2-3. Should I look into getting something with a higher slat count if I want to make sure the mattress lives long? It looks like Leesa has a foundation but it's not offered on the canadian site, and I can't tell what sort of slat spacing they have through the US page. Just get a half inch thick layer of MFD or plywood and staple some fabric on it to protect your mattress from the wood. Place board on slats. Done. Alternatively, you can purchase something called a "bunkie board," which generally is about 2 inches tall and will run you somewhere around $50 - $60 for a queen size. movax posted:I got the Purple 3 Queen! Two nights so far and I have not slept better in quite awhile; granted, I have been on my couch for the week prior and was traveling for six weeks before that, but it is comfy. Don't know if it makes a difference, but I let it mattress after unpacking for at least a full day before sleeping on it. Got their mattress protector as well. Setup was as others describe a very generous term to describe user involvement. Reports I've heard suggest that the Purple polymer is even more weight sensitive than lots of foam. I haven't had enough information to verify, and I have no idea what their break-in process is like. I'd be intensely interested in your experiences, though! Purple3 is a hybrid, isn't it?
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Jun 5, 2018 05:04
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movax posted:What do you mean by weight sensitive, as in the perception / feeling / performance varies based on mass on the mattress? I’m a single 77kg (as of today, thanks smart scale :hambeast:) sleeper as of now. Also, mattress is currently flat on the floor whilst I shop for a snazzy bed frame with under-bed storage. Weight sensitive meaning it will feel different based on the weight of the occupant. Generally, heavier people subjectively feel things as softer, as bedding yields under more weight more readily. Coil based mattresses are generally less weight sensitive than all foam products, given that thicker coils provide a more uniform level of resistance. Again, this is all subjective feeling, but it's relevant to when I work with couples to fit them to the right mattress, so... here you go. 170 lbs (assuming you're more than 5'5" aka 165ish unAmerican units) places you more on the not-very-heavy side. As such, I'd expect a relatively high level of firmness with regards to weight sensitive products. Hybrids traditionally refer to some sort of "memory foam on top of coil" construction, but Purple's polymer kinda fucks everything up with regards to terminology. I probably should have specified "innerspring" rather than used something a bit more jargony and also imprecise. It's late.
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Jun 5, 2018 05:54
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Oxyclean posted:So is the idea just to better support/distribute the weight? How bad would it be for the mattress to forgo this with a slat spacing of 5-6 inches? Can't say I've had much luck finding a bunkie board in that price range at local retailers, might just need to broaden my search. Aside from killing any shot you'd have at a warranty claim, you're likely going to shorten the life of the mattress if you stick with a 5+ inch gap in the mattress's support. But essentially, yes, the bunkie/platform/foundation serves to provide an even layer of support to the mattress. My Imaginary GF posted:I'm looking for a queen sized foam mattress for me and the girlfriend. Thing that I'm wondering is, how do memory foam mattresses hold up to bodily emissions? She's a night sweater, and our sex tends to produce a whole lot of liquids. Get a mattress protector. They're waterproof, work on any mattress, don't make noise, etc. If you pay less than $40 for the protector, you're getting garbage, though. Otherwise, foam holds up as well or better than an innerspring mattress at a comparable pricepoint, assuming you get a foam dense enough for the weight of the occupants. Then again, the same is kinda true of innersprings, but I feel it more necessary to specify here.
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Jun 10, 2018 03:04
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Sacred Cow posted:Any opinions on Helix mattresses? My wife likes the idea of having a firmness option before ordering since she’s worried beds like Casper might be too soft. I’m looking at them and Purple (original model). We have a Sleep Number c2 right now and whichever we like least will end up as the guest bed. You really should try beds like them to give some context. Most beds in a box tend towards fairly firm, but ymmv.
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Jul 5, 2018 02:39
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Jesustheastronaut! posted:Hey guys, I'm in my twenties, 5'11, 145lbs (good looking) gf is same but closer to 110lbs (not bad looking) Honestly, I'd recommend considering why you want to get a larger bed. Queen is ~6 inches wider and ~5 inches longer. There are split queen boxes you can purchase which allow you to get those in and out of tight spaces (if that's an issue). There is also a special order size that we rarely deal with that is "full xl." Just like a twin XL, it is the same length as a queen/king, so you get your extra length, but it maintains the width of the size. Specific to beds in a box, I'd be super leery of any biabs that have coils. Those things are super compressed, which puts more stress on a coil than foam. I've tried some Sealy hybrid biabs that retail for ~$500 and they were ultra firm and I found them to be... very bad. Subjectively, I know, but I couldn't in good conscious suggest that bed to someone for $500. I have no problem recommending folks products that my store doesn't carry, if I know they're decent products, and I have nothing comparable... but those things do not hit my criteria. Alternatively, you can PM me and I can give specific suggestions. I try to avoid doing that in here, so I can tell myself I'm not shilling.
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Jul 23, 2018 15:06
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Careful Drums posted:i just read this whole loving thread and i have no idea what the gently caress to buy, but i'm sure as gently caress trusting zero review sites. we're having a house built and we need a new mattress. Advise a mattress store, easier to deal with post-purchase. More of a pain in the rear end than ordering something online in your underwear though. You folks would likely gravitate towards some sort of medium something-or-other. Look at a softer all foam, a plush innerspring, or a firm pillowtop/luxury firm hybrid. Be aware that she will likely feel the same things are harder than you do, given the weight difference. And if you don't give a gently caress about the mattress, let her pick anything that doesn't hurt you. I should probably throw up some tips on how to make an in-store experience as painless as possible. I'll draft something up after work, maybe. Hot tip: If you go into a store and the person working doesn't try to find out any sleep issues to uncover, they suck, and are just working sales. If they make an honest attempt to find out sleep issues, they're actually trying to help and are likely worth the benefit of a doubt.
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Aug 18, 2018 15:16
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Robot Mil posted:My main problem now is finding pillows that don't give me neck/shoulder pain. I tried a memory foam firm one which is meant to be good for side sleepers but it was horrible and has hosed up my shoulder somehow. You should look into pillows that keep your neck mostly straight when you're on your side. Just because some guy on the internet (or in a marketing firm) says a pillow is good for side sleepers does not mean it's going to work for you. Pillows are generally nonreturnable, but if you find an option that lets you try something fairly risk free, go nuts. I'm not sure if Ikea sells pillows in store so you can try it on your actual bed, but that's the best way to go about it. But if your pillow is less than ~$30, it's probably kinda bad in general.
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Aug 19, 2018 04:00
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Dr. Despair posted:I'm thinking about picking up a queen tuft and needle (esp. since all the thousands of different brands out there seem pretty similar apart from a few niche technologies), but is it worth waiting a few weeks for labor day sales? Going to be moving into a new place soonish but I have an air matress that I can use for now, so waiting a week or two is doable. Tuft & Needle is overpriced for how it actually is built. That might change with Serta-Simmons acquiring them, but that won't take effect until much after labor day. Most Labor Day sales are active already, so if you see something you like, go nuts!
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Aug 22, 2018 04:46
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Jesustheastronaut! posted:It sounds like a lot of you end up putting a foam topper on their mattresses regardless of what you end up getting. My current mattress isn't the most comfortable. It's an old spring pillow top I have on the floor. Can I just get a quality 3.5lb foam topper for it and just lay it on top and it will feel okay? I don't want weird lumps or dips A topper will do nothing if you have structural difficulties with the mattress. In fact, except for the topper itself breaking in, it should have no effect at all on lumpiness. Right around $200 is a good place to be for a high quality topper--assuming Queen size.
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Aug 25, 2018 14:50
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Phraggah posted:Yeah rises up a little much. For the price of an extra inch I could just get a wrapped coil + talalay latex bed made from a local manufacturer Good latex is quite expensive. There is a local company that makes their own products, and they won't discuss latex as a component of a mattress until you hit ~$4k. In the major vendors, latex doesn't make an appearance until about $3k, and then it's only roughly half an inch thick or so. Talalay latex is one of the best possible components in a mattress as far as durability, but it tends towards the firmer side, and is one of the most expensive components. It's in luxury mattresses for a reason. Keep in mind that there are two primary reasons I would advise against the make-it-yourself option: if latex gets wet, it starts flaking and will have a very short lifespan, and; all mattresses have to be constructed with a minimum level of flame resistance. Taken together, that usually means that manufacturers will not have latex at the top of a mattress--usually it's under multiple layers of foam, fabric, fiber, and/or coils. And I'm not entirely sure how to supply oneself with these components to make a mattress, to be quite honest. Honestly, though, try not to be too concerned about that Purple mattress only having 2 inches of their polymer. It does not take a lot of material to fundamentally change the way a mattress feels. I can think of one instance where the difference in two products is how thick two layers were cut (one had two 2" layers of foam, the other was 1" + 3"); they felt starkly different. Careful Drums posted:We did it, goons, I took my wife and three insane kids to the mattress store. We ordered a Sealy Queen Ingenius mattress, it was the one my wife and I both felt the most comfortable on, set us back about a grand. We'll see how it goes, won't get to sleep in it until our house is done and we're moved in mid-October, though That specific product is one I'm unfamiliar with, but congratulations! That is a solid price point to be floating around. If you're dropping less than ~$1k on a queen set (and ~$1.3k on a king), I would be concerned about durability and quality of product. Sealy had some very strong products around that price point when I sold them, and I have no reason to believe that has changed.
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Aug 28, 2018 14:44
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Anne Whateley posted:If that's the goal, couldn't you just get a waterproof/flame-retardant mattress cover? Theoretically, yes. I haven't the foggiest loving idea where you'd get something like that. If you want to create something, proceed at your own risk, but best of luck! Cascadia Pirate posted:Anyone have any experience with this mattress from Costco? It might be OK. I'm unfamiliar with that model, and I can't quite identify its predecessor. We sold some cheap Sealys and they were garbo*, but that was a few years ago, and they were even cheaper. *In my personal opinion. Also, they were rife with problems. Something Offal posted:https://www.artvan.com/sealy-ingenious-plush-queen-mattress/100040327.html I'm assuming that the goon likely got mattress + foundation + delivery and maybe a mattress protector. After tax, regardless of where s/he lives, the total should be around 1k, give or take a hundred bux. spf3million posted:Unfortunately, the mattress has developed 1/4" dips where we sleep over the course of the two months we've had it. I contacted Purple and they immediately shipped us a replacement after a few questions and a single photo claiming it was a manufacturing defect. When I asked if the 100 night trial period would reset, they said no. The 10-yr warranty on the mattress is anything over an inch depression would qualify for a warranty replacement. So I asked them to reconsider resetting the 100 day trial because otherwise I won't be able to determine if the depressions are a one-off defect or a feature of all Purple mattresses. I only have a few weeks life before the 100 day trial ends so if they don't reset the clock, I'm going to return it and start the search over. I'm super unfamiliar with the Purple polymer, but if this were literally any mattress with a quilted top, I would be immediately asking you if you have been rotating the mattress at all. In a quilted top, you are breaking in the comfort layers of the mattress over the first few months; if you sleep in the same spot, and do not make any additional effort, you will wear in that area well, nothing else. This effectively feels like unwarranted dips, when it's just a sign of uneven wear--sort of like if you got a new pair of shoes and only walked on the blades of your feet.
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Aug 29, 2018 03:45
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Anne Whateley posted:Waterproof mattress covers are literally everywhere, I got mine at Target for $30. I think flame retardance is required for all mattress stuff, but here's one that explicitly advertises it. I meant flame resistant, specifically. Waterproof is easy to find. Sorry for the confusion! spf3million posted:When you say rotate you mean just spin it 180 degrees right? It's not a 2 sided mattress. We did try rotating our last mattress 90 degrees since a king is close enough to square, do you think that would help break in the top layer more evenly? Yep, spin it head to toe. Same side faces up! Phraggah posted:I could use some more actually. I tried some of the showroom models of the manufacturer I mentioned earlier and they were pretty deece. They are huge fans of firmer beds with softer toppers. I found a good combination with an individually wrapped coil frame plus foam comfort layer, with a plush foam and latex (70/30 split apparently) which should be approx 1.5-2k taxed and shipped. Their all latex topper 3-4 inches thick is just a few hundred dollars more though and I'm also tempted by that. Bed 1 is on par with some of our cheaper models. It should hold up kind-of-OK, I think? I would check with the sales guys to find out if the coil is precompressed; if the coil is not precompressed, it has less tension, and you will sink further relative to a precompressed coil. For comparison, a standard Beautyrest pocketed coil is 9 inches, and is precompressed by 2 or 3 inches (I can't remember which). I am not a fan of coil edge encasements, but that's somewhat preferential... and I don't have a good reason for my disdain in this case. So yeah, check to see if the coils are precompressed. Also ask them about the gauge of their coil; if the coil is 14.5 or higher, I have no idea how the gently caress the mattress would be firm. They might have to look up the answer; not knowing immediately is not a sign of poor training or expertise. This is a fairly specific couple of questions that will likely make them wonder if you are shopping them from a competitor. I'm also not a big fan of hard coils that you put a topper on, but, again, I have no well founded reason for that. Modular designs just bother me; I can't fathom why you'd make multiple incomplete products so people (who generally aren't bed experts, and get things wrong about half the time on their own) can put things together themselves. There was only one thing that gave me pause regarding the topper:  Why would you do that?  It is priced as if it is a decent product, though. I'm unfamiliar, and I can't actually turn you away from it, so go for it if the coil system in the mattress checks out, I guess?There are two competitors in my area that proudly claim they are not on commission. What they should say is that they are not commissioned per-piece by their employer, but their salary fluctuates based on performance. One of these competitors gets manufacturer-direct payouts for products sold at full price, in addition to personal performance bonuses; the other modulates their staff's salary quarterly, based upon the total amount sold over the previous quarter. But they're not commissioned. 
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Aug 30, 2018 01:50
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I'm going to cop out a little bit, because it is super difficult to give a specific suggestion to you. It sounds like you and I are in similar situations (I'm roughly 6', roughly the same weight; my wife has large hips, is a side sleeper). I held my ground on a more medium-soft mattress, and it's been a decision I regret. We'll be transitioning to the softest mattress we carry in the next few months, because I've since realized that my preference falls short of her need. Split kings allow you to have two different mattresses, though, so that might be worth looking into! Seriously, though, if you have a buddy who is a higher-up at Mattress Firm, you should reach out to them directly, even if they're in a different city. They can go through the grapevine, and get a recommendation to someone who would be very well suited to help you. If you want more information, feel free to shoot me a PM.
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Sep 12, 2018 03:39
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Volcott posted:I'm looking to replace a mattress (full, innerspring, enormous divot in the middle) with a mattress (full, memory foam, maybe quilted or pillow top if I can swing it). I was going to check out what Ikea had on tap, but I'm also aware that they sell mattresses on the internet now. There are a bevy of companies that provide decent mattresses somewhere around that price range. I think you'll be somewhat strained if you're looking for a good quality set (i.e., mattress and something to put it on) for under 700 after tax. If you're OK going up to around ~850 or so, your options will open up dramatically. If you're looking for innerspring, I would strongly urge you to investigate individually encased coils. They may be pocketed (a BeautyRest trademark) or otherwise encased; the important reason is because they will conform well, and will hold up better over time than an old-school connected coil. It also means that if your mattress gets damaged somehow, only that specific area will be affected. This in no way is indicative of the feel of the mattress. [Side note: I had a college friend who had a connected coil mattress. He busted some part of the mattress, and it just caved in on half of the bed like a spoon.] Foam will, in general, allow for slightly higher quality at a lower price point. The only all-foam product I steer people away from is Casper because the company has a history of doing some shady poo poo. I don't like Tuft & Needle, likely because they just recently opened a store in my trade area, but their product is OK. Leesa is going to be just north of that 800 price point, I think, and tulo has stuff that's going to be between 700 and 800. Purple will be breaking 1k, I think, as will Saatva, and a few other bed-in-a-box labels. Good heuristic is that if it is a mattress for an adult, that will be getting every day use, you should definitely spend more than $500 on it. For traditional mattresses, you'll probably want to push up to about $700. Regardless, I would recommend popping into a store to check out some stuff. If you go to a specialty retailer, often you can quickly determine whether they will be helpful or not based on how they interact with you. If you are clear about where your budget is, they will (read: should) respect that. And you can always nope right out if you don't like the person or the product.
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Oct 1, 2018 21:44
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Stevie Lee posted:I paid around $650 for my full Brooklyn Bedding Signature mattress earlier this year and I like it a lot paired with one of the cheap Zinus platform beds. That's one of those local brands I'm not familiar with. It's certainly possible to find local businesses that will have some specific and good beds!
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Oct 2, 2018 03:05
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Huntersoninski posted:It might. A decently thick one will probably be a bit expensive, but worth it. And at least if you get one of those you'll know there'll probably be a better return policy. Spikes32 posted:The other option is to wait a week or two and see if your back adjusts. Sometimes different beds take a minute for your body to adjust to. These are both (kinda) accurate. If you've been sleeping in a situation with lovely support, going to a new mattress (of any quality and variety) is going to make you a bit sore. Your body is used to getting by with a poor level of support, and it will take a bit to get used to. Additionally, all posturepedic mattresses have some sort of reinforcement around the center third of the mattress, ostensibly to assist in alignment (thus the posturepedic you see ), which can have its own unique acclimatization time.A topper is unlikely to help with muscle pain, or with a lack of support. They are used primarily to soften a surface, and therefore help mostly with contact pain of too hard a bed. E.g., toppers are recommended for a relatively new bed that causes shoulder pain when you sleep on your side. Toppers will never really affect the support of a mattress, only the comfort and pressure relief. If you would elaborate on the pain you and your SO are experiencing (either here or in PM), I'll see if I can give you some more information to help.
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Oct 10, 2018 01:16
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Biomute posted:Whatever happened to latex mattresses? Back when I last looked into this it seemed like as a people we'd all decided that a proper, uniform latex mattress was the objective ideal, yet now all I can find are these sketchy sounding 7+ zoned micro-spring and memoryfoam mattresses that are priced all over the place. Is it just because if you have like 8 layers of different stuff it's easier to charge a premium for it? Good latex is crazy expensive. Furthermore, pure latex mattresses are generally very firm and are susceptible to moisture damage. Moisture (e.g., sweat) will break latex down faster than just about any other bedding material... and the majority of people really suck at taking care of their beds. Other constructions are more robust. lovely latex, or latex foam, is usually much cheaper than good talalay latex, in both price and performance. Dunlop latex is generally even firmer than talalay latex, and therefore only really appeals to folks that want ultra firm sleeping surfaces. Honestly, a classic Purple mattress is likely closest to latex in feel and performance without what latex would cost. Take this with a heaping spoonful of salt, as my exposure to Purple is extremely limited, and I'm going exclusively off of their rubberized polymer--and good latex is a type of rubber.
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Oct 21, 2018 22:04
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