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I started writing up a big post but I don't think it will be constructive. Basically the jist is this: You've done a really bad thing and are making some choices that will have serious consequences. I suggest stopping here for a bit and thinking things over. Also ask lots of questions and listen to what alot of people are about to say here.
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Mar 27, 2017 22:42
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 05:52 |
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Edit: ^Looks like you replied while I was typing. Glad to hear you are getting some assistance, hope you can find some contractors that will work with you and let you save a bit by doing most of the work yourself. bEatmstrJ posted:I'm happy to share my future plans with people if that would solicit helpful advice, but telling me I did something wrong without offering any constructive advice is not helpful. Fair enough, I didn't want to sound like I was dumping on you and risk scaring you off. I'll add some more info and whatever insights i have. I'll mention some options that may not be proper but are probably better than nothing. Of course I am not a licensed Engineer/Plumber/Electrician so nothing I say should be taken as real advice and you'll have to excuse me for using some incorrect terminology here and there. Also I don't know the layout beyond what i can see in the pics. The Vanity drain thing: I think what he was mentioning was either sideway tee for the first drain instead of a wye with the proper amount of slope. Also if it is 2' pipe there needs to be a vent within 8' of the drain, hard to tell but looks like that might be ok. Ideally there should be a circuit vent after the second sink. Is this a giant problem? Probably not terrible, there is a potential for one or both of the sinks to have their traps siphoned when a full sink of water is drained. I think adding an add an air admittance valve is out of the question since it would be too low if inside the vanity (I also don't like them because it adds a possible point of failure). To minimize the chances of siphoning you could use drains with just a grate and no stopper so the sink can't be filled or find a style of stopper that is quite restrictive and slow to drain. The vanity studs The studs cant' be cut like that whether the wall supports anything or not. Doubly so when the vanity with a heavy granite top is being cantilevered off of them. Since that room looks like it has at least 10' of clear floor in each direction it seems unlikely that the wall isn't offering at least some support even if just to purlin braces or attic storage. Ideally I would pull the vanity back and cut some access holes to add bracing sistering around the drain and fix the vent at the same time, then tile, then put the cabinetry up. At the very least I would get another person to sit on the vanity with you and see how much the wall deflects. Those leaky stub-out valves: Good luck, I've battled with those BrassCraft pieces of poo poo before, they are the worst cut-rate garbage made on worn out tooling. It seems like the torque it takes to seal them is just a hair below the torque it takes to split them. Try to find out where the plumbers near you get their supplies, probably Ferguson or Consolidated Supply. Go there and get what they recommend. Learn to hate home depot. I'm guessing the outlet over the vanity is GFCI protected at the load center but if not it needs to be swapped for a GFCI outlet. The tub joists: This is what really freaks me out, since there is a recessed light fixture beneath it the room below must extend some distance so you aren't building on top of a wall(recessed lights are rarely placed close to a wall and from the pics i see no break in the ceiling sheathing) Like someone else said, engineered joists rely on the top and bottom rails being un-interupted and uni-directionally strong, that's why they are made of straight grain wood while the webbing is made of oriented strand board. They also rely on the sub-floor to keep them from deflecting. A small lateral deflection will lead to a complete loss of longitudinal compressive strength which means no vertical support. ideally putting it back to original and living with the tub being a few inches higher would be best but if you are going to go with this I would recommend checking out the manufacturers literature concerning stiffening engineered joists. Put a new cap on tall enough that it both butts up against the ends of the existing cap and also extends below and well beyond it. Relieve the middle only down to whatever clearance the tub needs. Add plywood that covers all the way from the bottom cap to the top cap instead of the bridge style thing you show. It should extend well beyond the original cut, like the longest piece you can possibly fit down through that hole. Then add bridging or blocking probably with some sort of steel hanger or fixture to tie the joists to each other as best as possible or better yet put the piece of subfloor back in lower down. Bibendum fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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Mar 29, 2017 00:33
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