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Josh Lyman posted:the A/C would sometimes emit this sort of "mist" that wasn't condensation. You sure that wasn't fog? That's pretty common if the evaporator is on the verge of freezing up (which is commonly caused by being a bit low on refrigerant). If it didn't have a chemical smell, that's probably what was going on.
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Jun 23, 2017 05:23
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That moment when you order a compressor from someone in Texas, who claims it's shipping from less than 100 miles away (Granbury) and you ask them if you can just pick it up in person... then the tracking shows it's coming from Michigan. So much for getting it this week.. or early next week. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jun 23, 2017 |
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Jun 23, 2017 06:24
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Better yet! They will probably use FedEx or UPS "Smart Post" through USPS and it will take anywhere from 10-15 days for delivery! All to save about one or two dollars on shipping I don't like you anymore. Thankfully they sent it UPS Ground. We'll see if UPS bothers bringing it to the door.
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Jun 23, 2017 17:52
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Pham Nuwen posted:My buddy's 1984 Nissan 720 just failed a smog test with CO levels about 2.5x allowable. Where would you guys start? He thinks he has a vacuum leak but I haven't verified how he came to that conclusion or if it even would affect CO. Vacuum leak wouldn't cause high CO; if there was a significant vacuum leak, CO would be below normal and NOx would be high. He needs to start with the basics - plugs, cap, rotor, timing, air filter. I'm betting the timing is off. If it's still failing after that, those run a lovely feedback carb - a replacement feedback carb is ~$100 on eBay (new). A Weber conversion kit is more like $300, but eliminates the electronics. Metal Geir Skogul posted:Run the tank near empty, fill with 5 gallons of denatured alcohol. Alternatively, this may work too. Darchangel posted:Wow. Do they not understand how tracking works, or just not care because they've got your money now? Probably that last. They updated all of their listings to show "Ships from multiple warehouses, US". But the day before, when I made the order, it was showing Granbury TX.  I mean, I'll be happy when it gets here either way, but it's still annoying. OTOH, I guess that explains why I didn't get hit with any tax. Not sure what's going on there; googling the name that showed up on Paypal shows they're based in Michigan.  Their business website makes it sound like they do their own rebuilds though, so hopefully the quality will be a bit better than your typical parts store reman.
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Jun 23, 2017 20:10
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The built in defrag in Windows 10 always shows all of my spinning drives as having 0-1% fragmentation, and that they've been defragmented in the past week. Awesome, good to know the auto defrag is working. After deleting >200GB of stuff on one drive early this week, I figured I'd run it manually. It completed in less than 5 seconds, showing 0% fragmentation. Wait, what? No, that can't be right. Downloaded Defraggler. Took 3 loving days to defrag that drive (4TB) - it finally finished early this morning (that was a bit nerve wracking, since we got a pretty good storm overnight.. but the PC is on a UPS, at least). It was reporting 18% fragmentation when it started. Another drive is showing 39%.  The only upside is the drive showing 39% fragmentation only has ~120GB of stuff on it (1TB drive), and it's an internal drive (the 4TB is external, on USB 3.0), so it shouldn't take 3 days.. I hope.
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Jun 25, 2017 06:05
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Biodome posted:I haven't thought about defragging a hard drive in 10 years. I haven't either, mainly because modern OS's are supposed to handle that poo poo for you. Key phrase being "supposed to". I doubt I'll see any real performance boost, since the big drive is purely movies/tv shows/music, but the 1TB has some applications on it, along with my Plex database. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 06:12
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Holy poo poo. My SSD is a whopping 120GB. And it's pretty close to full just from the OS and the few games I have on it. Wonder how bad it would stutter on my i5 2500k and GTX 650 Ti  everdave posted:I have worked on at least 1-2k computers the past 2 years. You don't need to defrag anymore. Don't overcomplicate your life. IT PLEASES MY OCD, OKAY?  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 06:59
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Oh good I'm not the only one OCD enough to throw labels on some switches. Except mine are glorious 80s almond toggles. I blame it on them being in the middle of a long wall instead of being near what they actually control. Or maybe it's just early dementia.  Metal Geir Skogul posted:Defragging just shags your SSD turbo quickly. Don't do it. Oh gently caress no. That's what TRIM (and Samsung Magician) is for. I'm only running defrag on spinning drives (7.6 TB of storage in this PC, 120GB of it is SSD). Samsung Magician and SSD Life both report the drive is in good health (SSD Life claims it has over 9 years of use remaining, don't know how accurate that is, but Magician shows relatively low writes for its age, I think - it's 4 yrs old, shows 16TB of writes). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 09:59
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InitialDave posted:Also, power. We don't run 110V here, as a side effect of which there's no such thing as a "dryer outlet", you just plug them in wherever, which means people site them where they want. At least for electric dryers, the ones we get do run on 220-240V (for the heater anyway, the motor and timer are usually 120V), and they're usually on pretty beefy circuits. The circuit breaker for my dryer outlet is 30 amps @ 240V (and I think that's pretty common for US electric dryer circuits). For comparison, my 2.5 ton (8800 kW) air conditioner is on a 20 amp @ 240V breaker. Aren't most UK outlets rated for up to 13 amps? FAT32 SHAMER posted:whirlpool are made here in michigan (though i'm sure all the parts are from china) I know the timer I bought for my parents washer a couple of years ago said MADE IN USA and had a Whirlpool logo on the box. ... but it was also for what's now a 20 year old washer, one that was a real Maytag, not a rebranded Whirlpool. The only reason the box even had a Whirlpool logo is Whirlpool bought Maytag, and I guess they still make parts for original Maytags.ExplodingSims posted:Yeah, turns out the disconnect box failed, started throwing off sparks and shorted the transformer. Replaced the transformer and box and called the landlord. Gonna have an electrician out here soon to hopefully replace the breaker, because holy poo poo why didn't it trip. Stab Lok or Zinsco panel?  nm posted:I miss old washer dryers. At my last apartment, I had a stacked set of maytags (incl a gas dryer). They had a tag with a build date of 1983. Still going strong when I moved out in 2015. These were even the "digital" ones with a touch pad. I am pretty sure they'd never been repaired (or even pulled from their corner) based on what appeared to be an epic amount of dust behind them. Yeah, real Maytags are impossible to kill. My parents have the last of the real Maytags (designed and built by Maytag, before Whirlpool acquired them). In 20 years, the washer has needed a timer (2 years ago), and the dryer has needed a blower wheel (about 5 years ago). Those things will likely outlive my parents. Maybe me. If the transmission goes on an old Maytag washer though... it's enough of a pain in the rear end that it's not really worth fixing, IMO. I'm impressed that the electronics in those 1983 models still work. Parents went with the basic, no frills models with mechanical timers. Pham Nuwen posted:I hope my freebie top loading washer and accompanying dryer never die. My neighbors gave them to me, they work great and have no problems, and I'd hate to have to replace the drat things. If you don't care if they match, or how old they are, you can find W/D sets all day on Craigslist and facebook for $150 or less. There's a ton of used appliance shops that have basic sets for $150-300 on Craigslist here, generally with a 30-90 day warranty and sometimes with delivery included. If they're basic models, you can probably keep them going for ages until something expensive (transmission in the washer, for example) takes a poo poo. Someone had posted a pretty new (5 years old) matched Maytag set on a local facebook group today for $75, but they had to be picked up by 8pm. I saw the post at 11pm. Way to post bulky stuff for sale hours before you have to be out of the house.  I assume they're either sitting on a curb or someone snatched them up, they won't respond to messages.
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Jun 26, 2017 06:54
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nm posted:I think the electronics just really simple and an incredibly over designed. just like everything else. My dryer vent in this apartment is literally a hole through the wall. Best I can tell, everyone who's lived here before just shoved the vent hose into that hole. I can see the trees outside if I look through, there's not even a flapper on the drat thing (there is a plastic grate though, and a halfassed rain guard). Let me tell you how fun it is when you find wasps in your kitchen with no idea how they got in, then you finally figure out they're coming in through there. I have a towel crammed into that hole for now. When I finally do get a dryer I'll probably put some chicken wire or something in there to try and keep anything from getting in. e: getting to it via outside isn't really an option... I'm on the 3rd floor. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 07:17
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Oh god. Yeah I had an apartment kinda like that. Maintenance could never figure out why I had to run the dryer through 3 full cycles to get anything dry, all they would do is check if it was getting hot, then say I was overloading it "cuz it's gettin plenty hot and they won't let me do nothin if it's hot" (the w/d came with the apartment). The vent was run as part of the original build, but it was a pretty long run (about 20 ft), with several bends. Upside is the kitchen vent hood was actually vented. That was the only apartment I've ever lived in that had a vent hood that actually vented instead of just recirculating; that, plus the Jenn Air stove (with grill insert!) was pretty nice. Too bad it's in a really bad area.. and they tore out the stoves long ago and put in typical 4 burner stuff. Probably normal 2 speed hoods too instead of the variable speed w/dimmers for the lights they had back then. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 07:59
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InitialDave posted:Ok, that's ridiculous. Yes, we just run ours on a single 13A plug for the entire machine. Hence no dedicated outlets. About the only things people run on dedicated circuits are ovens and water heaters. A beefy heating element. A typical full size household dryer here has a ~22 amp (at 240V) heating element. Add a little more for the motor. And the voltages may be a bit different if you're in a converted commercial building (i.e. formerly commercial, converted to residential, which is trendy these days) - if there's 3 phase service, the dryer may be running on 208, 240, or 277 volts (same for any other 240V appliances), so the amperage draw may be higher or lower. Most 240V residential appliances I've seen are rated to handle 208-240. Ours run on a single plug as well; since our residential 240 is just two 120 volt legs, 180 degrees out of sync, with an added neutral (and ground if you're in a newer place)... you can run both 120 and 240 volt equipment from that circuit. The timer and motor runs off of one leg, the heating element off of both legs. Our stoves/ovens run similarly. Any lighting, timers, electronics, etc are usually run off of one leg, while the actual heating elements are run off of 240. We over-complicate it a bit for some reason - I can understand why, say, lights, run off of 120 (since that's what our lighting and general use circuits are), never really understood why they didn't just build the rest for 240 though. FWIW, in my place (early 1980s 1 bedroom apartment), the stove/oven, water heater, furnace, dryer, and air conditioner have dedicated 240V circuits. A couple of 120V appliances have their own dedicated circuits, but that's more of an electrical code thing (they'd run fine on shared circuits, it's just not allowed). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 10:06
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eyebeem posted:Heh, I didn't even post what I was wearing on that ride: So whatcho doin after the ride?  Darchangel posted:In all seriousness, the only one of those I recognize is Specialized. Honestly, almost all of those brand names seem more at home on skateboards/related equipment to me. But I was never much of a bike nerd, and only got into boards for about a year. Cop Porn Popper posted:Neither car has a stick on the top trim iirc. Auto on the 6, cvt on the honda iirc. I've driven Nissan, Toyota, GM (they tried it once... in the 03-04 Saturn Ion coupe, coworker had an 03), Honda, and Mopar CVTs so far. The only one that hasn't annoyed the poo poo out of me was the one they use in the Prius. The Prius actually had some decent power off the line; the Jeep Patriot I had as a rental, on the other hand, was by far the worst - it made me feel like the car was actively trying to kill me (either via rage from it not being able to figure out I wanted to accelerate, or making GBS threads myself trying to pass anyone on the highway). tl;dr CVT is something I will refuse to own until I have no other choice (I'd tolerate it on a prius... that's about it) Galler posted:I keep considering replacing my Fit with a more fun hatchback but then I realize how much less useful every other hatchback is. Honda should have made a Fit type R instead of that dumb Civic. I hear a K20 wakes them up nicely
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Jun 27, 2017 10:55
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Well that certainly is a thing. MX518? I miss mine. 
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Jun 27, 2017 19:39
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rdb, you have my sympathies.  Do CRJs have something like an exit row that you'd find on a larger plane? Wouldn't help with width, but would help with legroom. cursedshitbox posted:And they fly those goddamn things like fighters. Goddamn you aren't kidding. Anytime I fly anything other than Southwest I'm wondering why they're taking so long to climb or descend. Southwest pilots don't waste a goddamn second getting up to altitude or getting down to the ground. I've been on Southwest for probably 99% of my flights, so the 45 degree climb/descent just seems normal and everyone else has me mentally screaming "WHAT'S TAKING SO LONG" Ferremit posted:Urgh something I ate in the last 24hrs has seriously disagreed with me. That was me all day yesterday. Today wasn't nearly as bad, even managed to work a bit today. But I still feel pretty crappy. Didn't even drag myself out of bed until 2pm today.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jun 29, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2017 07:46
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It's more fun when GM uses similar codes for similar things... like keyless entry w/remote start prep package (AP8)... and keyless entry w/remote start (AP3). AP8 means the vehicle has everything required, except for the fobs that have the remote start button, and remote start is toggled off within the BCM. When you order the remote start kit, you get new fobs with the remote start button, a AP3 sticker to affix over the AP8 sticker, a code for the installer to use with Tech2 to toggle remote start on, and instructions for the dealer/"installer". It takes them all of 5 minutes to enable it, assuming they take a smoke break.
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Jun 30, 2017 07:39
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 15:42 |
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spog posted:And how much extra does that sticker, changing fobs for ones with an extra button and 5 mins of work cost the customer? I've heard of that kit running $100-150. I'd imagine labor would be whatever the minimum labor amount is at that dealer (1/2 hour to an hour). So probably 200-300.
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Jun 30, 2017 18:54
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