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Olympic Mathlete posted:I just went and looked at ITBs on a 4AGE. Pfffft http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/3sge-beams-quad-throttle-adapter.html
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Jul 5, 2017 14:21
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Wrar posted:Pfffft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMjFu__ENZs 
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Jul 5, 2017 14:51
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I just went and looked at ITBs on a 4AGE. SIlvertops and blacktops both come factory with ITB's. Silvertops have a plenum over them, though, so you can't run velocity stacks. Blacktops seem like they can run stacks natively. (this is based on internet research, as I have no first-hand experience). Swapping them into the AW11 is pretty straightforward, though, and well documented. I've been waffling on whether I want to rebuild the head in my unknown mileage/condition 16v 4AGE and keep it stock, convert to quad carbs with velocity stacks to eliminate all the archaic EFI stuff, or swap in a silvertop. I feel like they're ~ equal cost at this point.
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Jul 5, 2017 14:57
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4AGZE w/ supercharger
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Jul 5, 2017 22:01
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The silvertop uses a mass air sensor, so it needs the airbox, blacktop uses vacuum sensor so you can remove the airbox. With standalone management either can run without it if you like. They both have fairly long plastic stacks inside the airbox. Only need to remove it is for looks, unless you are planning to run bigger cams or boost.
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Jul 6, 2017 02:57
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Nodoze posted:4AGZE w/ supercharger Yeah, I think the prices are low enough on them still that they'd be worth it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-84-89-T...738.m2548.l4275 IIRC there's a minimal amount of poo poo that needs to be swapped other than the engine and accessories to make it work in a NA car.
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Jul 6, 2017 15:27
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Fuel pump chat: Just got done replacing the fuel pump on mine 3 weeks ago. It was stone dead because you could always hear it running when the key was in aux prior to it's death and with the new one. Test the power / draw to the fuel pump. If the draw is all wrong or you are blowing a fuse then it's the fuel pump for sure. You + 1-2 additional people to help. Make dropping the tank easier on yourself: 1) Drain the tank. 2) Remove the guards for the tunnel by the engine and the fuel filler line to get at all the clamps and bits you'll need to undo. 3) Buy a super long hooked needle nose pliers for the 4-5 hoses at the back of the fuel tank unless you have very tiny delicate hands with long fingers. Parts: Rock Auto: Fuel pump - CARTER P72165 has everything you need in the kit, you will need to splice so shrink tube as well. Also picked up the following just in case: Fuel Pump Open Circuit Relay: BECK/ARNLEY 2030055 Ignition Starter Relay: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY290T T-Series
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Jul 7, 2017 16:58
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extreme_accordion posted:you could always hear it running when the key was in aux prior to it's death and with the new one. Mine is really weird, then. I just went downstairs to verify and when you put the key to run a couple of relays latch, and the chime buzzer goes for like 5 seconds. I don't hear any fuel pump noises or anything even with it up on the lift and me sticking my head all around under the back of the car. I'll look at the BGB after I post this, but are we sure there isn't a factory interlock that prevents the pump from running until cranking? Maybe mine is on the way out too, if the car sits for more than a couple days it cranks like it has fuel starvation, but I always figured that was just bleed-down in the fuel rail.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:42
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Looks like there is a further condition than just "key to Aux/Run" to get the pump to fire. Glancing at the BGB, it looks like the starter circuit and the fuel pump switch in the AFM need to operate to latch the fuel pump relay. Here's the troubleshooting page:  And then here's the simplified wiring schematic for the fuel pump:  edit: better info
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Jul 7, 2017 17:55
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0) All this time I've been assuming you are cranking over - is that the case? 1) Key to aux, foot on clutch if manual, you should hear it humming away about 6-8" back of the shifter in the center console. 2) Did you try with the check connector? (edit: #1 in your images above) 3) Garage2Roadtrip posted:
4) Can you try starting it on ether? If it dies as soon as you hit the gas... - fuel pump time. Mine would fire right up on starting fluid and run a bit until you hit the gas, then it would instantly shut off, not even die, just, OFF. This diagram was also a serious help. 
extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 18:55
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.... if the car sits for more than a couple days it cranks like it has fuel starvation
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extreme_accordion posted:Mine would fire right up on starting fluid and run a bit until you hit the gas, then it would instantly shut off, not even die, just, OFF. All that being said, mine runs flawless, just struggles for a few cranks to start. I still don't have a noise when I clutch. Jumping the diag-plug closes the fuel pump circuit and will make the fuel pump run. It shouldn't just run the pump with the 'clutch in'/'key in run' until the starter circuit and AFM circuit latch the fuel pump relay. edit: clarification edit2: I'm convinced the AFM fuel pump switch is the dead-man switch, to kill the pump if the engine dies. edit3: let it be known my car runs without issue - I was posting fuel pump stuff for OP Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 19:00
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:All that being said, mine runs flawless, just struggles for a few cranks to start. I still don't have a noise when I clutch. Jumping the diag-plug closes the fuel pump circuit and will make the fuel pump run. It shouldn't just run the pump with the 'clutch in'/'key in run' until the starter circuit and AFM circuit latch the fuel pump relay. Sorry got you confused with the OP.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:19
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extreme_accordion posted:Sorry got you confused with the OP. If your pump is coming on without cranking first then I'd imagine your relay was bypassed.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:22
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Thanks for the infodump. I tried the Fp to +B thing last night, still no go. Tested the relay, it's good. It has to be the pump at this point. Will start taking stuff off to prepare for dropping the tank tonight; it's been 100 degrees all week so I'm doing poo poo at night right now (insomnia does have its upsides sometimes~). Unfortunately as mine is an 86, I can't drain the tank beforehand but there's only 2-3 gallons in there anyhow. Also took the fuel filter off since there's no reason not to change it after it has sat for 5 years (pain in the rear end but still not as bad as that loving oil filter), only to find the one Autozone sold me won't fit the banjo bolts  Also I didn't realize how good a 20v blacktop really is, I was pretty set on BEAMS but with the 20v being a direct swap...but I shouldn't get ahead of myself, let's get the thing on the road first. DEEP STATE PLOT fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 19:39
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financially racist posted:It has to be the pump at this point. financially racist posted:Also I didn't realize how good a 20v blacktop really is, I was pretty set on BEAMS but with the 20v being a direct swap.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:52
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Eh, not too lovely. If I'm being honest, dropping the tank and draining the old gas would probably be something I should do irregardless of whether the pump is bad. My hope is to get this thing running and on the road by the end of September. Taking 18 credit hours and trying to maintain a GPA above 3.9 right now so I ain't gonna have any spare time come fall term. Plenty of time until then however, so whatever needs done before then I can probably do. DEEP STATE PLOT fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 20:01
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financially racist posted:replace the filter irregardless  financially racist posted:irregardless of whether the pump is bad  It's irrespective or regardless! Dangit! 
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Jul 7, 2017 22:44
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i'm an environmental science major not an english major so i'll keep using that word irregardless of whether it's correct or not
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Jul 7, 2017 22:58
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remember that oil filter i bitched about? i pinched a nerve in my neck because of that goddamn thing. rip. anyway, threw new front brake pads on the sw20 and changed the oil in preparation for taking it to the race track later this month. eventually wanna take the aw11 to the track; strongly considering getting falken azenis for it and using it as my primary track car since it is probably capable of better lap times anyway.
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Jul 13, 2017 06:01
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:lovely Beams swap just seems like a fuckaround, with the space available, for the power you'll get. On the other hand I've ridden shotgun in a 3SGTE swapped Adub and it was the most brutal 250 KM/H Freeway on-ramp experience of my life. You expect the front end to get real twitchy at speed but they just don't... Blacktop is probably the sensible option.
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Jul 13, 2017 07:40
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financially racist posted:remember that oil filter i bitched about? i pinched a nerve in my neck because of that goddamn thing. rip. I have to use my lift to comfortably remove the oil filter. Even then it gets loving mangled by my filter pliers. I bought an oil filter relocate plate for my 1UZ swap motor, and it almost appears to be the same threads/depth/etc as the 4AGE, if it is, I'll prob order another and relocate the filter. Don Dongington posted:You expect the front end to get real twitchy at speed but they just don't... I feel like with the rake of the bodywork and the front air dam, these cars (when complete and not total buckets) are fairly good in the aero dept. Running 90mph on the highway really settles the car - although the motor is pretty wound out at that point, my 80-90hp estimate at the wheels is having a hard time overcoming the air.
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Jul 13, 2017 15:49
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because i am a massive, massive loving idiot, i bought this here car while i was also enrolled in three summer college courses and also i had like no money (ie i had $2.86 to my name after my last car insurance payment) well, two of those classes have ended now and i have a part-time job for the summer in addition to the other part-time job i already had, so starting next week i can finally get around to bringing this thing back to life on my days off. thus far i've replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil and taken the trim out of the trunk and partially out of the driver compartment. to do list, in descending order from most to least important: -drop the tank, test and likely replace the fuel pump unless it just has a bad wire or something. will at least start this process monday. -replace the missing fuses -replace the spark plugs and plug wires -finish ripping out the interior and really cleaning the living hell out of it -either resurface or replace the rotors. pads look fine. -go through all the vacuum lines once it is running and look for leaks -completely flush the coolant system. the poo poo that's in there is just...black. that ain't how that's supposed to look. flushing coolant in any mr2 is a wonderful pain so i'm real stoked about this! -replace the rear light bulbs that the methheads stole while the car sat at the last owner's house for 5 years (seriously why the hell would you break into a car and just steal the taillight bulbs  )-check the a/c system. if it works that'll be rad. if not...hoo boy with it being the fancy version i could see it being a real nightmare to fix if i need to. -replace interior dome light bulb and cover (old one literally just fell into a million pieces when i touched it) -replace sunroof also to do list for my sw20 daily driver: -replace valve cover gasket -see if it's worth fixing the exhaust leak (i think it's at the headers) DEEP STATE PLOT fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Jul 21, 2017 |
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Jul 21, 2017 08:24
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I have to use my lift to comfortably remove the oil filter. Even then it gets loving mangled by my filter pliers. I bought an oil filter relocate plate for my 1UZ swap motor, and it almost appears to be the same threads/depth/etc as the 4AGE, if it is, I'll prob order another and relocate the filter. Filter location is the worst thing about these cars. I don't think I ever did an oil change without burning the poo poo out of my arm. Garage2Roadtrip posted:I feel like with the rake of the bodywork and the front air dam, these cars (when complete and not total buckets) are fairly good in the aero dept. Running 90mph on the highway really settles the car - although the motor is pretty wound out at that point, my 80-90hp estimate at the wheels is having a hard time overcoming the air. Since I had a stock AW11 and a ST 20v swapped one when I was a dumb kid, I can verify they both maxed out around a indicated ~125mph. The 20v one cruised way too nicely at ~110mph. Thankfully I calmed down by the time I had my BT 20v swapped one, so I never pushed that it past 80-90mph. God I miss having an mr2. While my miata is fun to drive, its just not the same.
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Jul 21, 2017 20:41
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financially racist posted:-completely flush the coolant system. the poo poo that's in there is just...black. that ain't how that's supposed to look. flushing coolant in any mr2 is a wonderful pain so i'm real stoked about this! Have you done a compression check? I hope black coolant isn't indicative of head gasket failure. financially racist posted:-replace interior dome light bulb and cover (old one literally just fell into a million pieces when i touched it) I have a couple stock bulbs and probably a cover I can send you for free. I had to replace my whole dome, and went with a LED bulb. edit: yes, have 2 bulbs and a dome cover. message me your address and I'll send them to you Monday if you want.   financially racist posted:-check the a/c system. if it works that'll be rad. if not...hoo boy with it being the fancy version i could see it being a real nightmare to fix if i need to. I don't know if you read my July Talk post about my AW11 A/C experience, but I have a huge grasp on the components and electrical flow of it now. I even got mine working for 20 minutes until the compressor seized. slurry_curry posted:Filter location is the worst thing about these cars. I don't think I ever did an oil change without burning the poo poo out of my arm. "Worst thing" on an AW11 is subjective. I think the ridiculous cartridge struts are pretty high up there, as is the whole cooling system/idle control/temp sensor nonsense. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 16:22
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Have you done a compression check? I hope black coolant isn't indicative of head gasket failure. nah, changed the oil and the telltale signs of head gasket failure weren't present there. i think it's just cause it has sat for so long. if i'm wrong and the head gasket is bad, well, no choice but to replace it! Garage2Roadtrip posted:I have a couple stock bulbs and probably a cover I can send you for free. I had to replace my whole dome, and went with a LED bulb. heck yeah, thanks 
DEEP STATE PLOT fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 18:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NjmkJ38nbI i'm raec car driver vrum vrum (my windshield fuckin sucks and so do the terrible, terrible all-season tires I'm on)
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Jul 30, 2017 15:41
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That looks like it was fun. One day I'll own an AW11. :'(
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Jul 31, 2017 12:37
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So, the fuel pump safety switch is an airflow meter? Neat. On my cars, Audi rigged it to the spark coil, so every time a spark was sensed the pump would run for 5 seconds.
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Jul 31, 2017 13:06
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Olympic Mathlete posted:That looks like it was fun. One day I'll own an AW11. :'( get one before they skyrocket in price, it's already happened to like every other cool import from the 80s and 90s
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Aug 1, 2017 06:40
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anyway i finished my second (and most work-intensive) of my three summer college courses and have the time to work on the aw11 finally except we're in a heat wave in southern oregon, ie it's gonna be 110+ degrees the next 3 days 
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Aug 1, 2017 20:07
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PROGRESS, kinda i didn't mention this before but the car came with no title. i got all that poo poo sorted now, got everything i needed from the last title holder and just need to go back to the dmv and file for a new title. i pulled the carpeting and center console out of the car, confirmed with my multimeter that the wire harness for the fuel pump is good. this was the last thing that could potentially save me from having to drop the tank so welp, guess i gotta get ready for that. it is gonna only be in the 80s and 90s this week so i can actually do that now because gently caress doing this poo poo in the heat we've been having. also got the last remnants of the rat nest out from behind the radio, re-vacuumed everything inside the car including under the carpet. no rust on the floors anywhere even though the passenger side window was stuck down and let rain in for some years. this thing must have been immaculately maintained before it was abandoned, real shame someone let it just sit like that, sunblasting the paint on the roof and killing the fuel pump, because man i just get more and more shocked by how little rust there is. i did, however, realize that the metal battery tray is rusted as gently caress since the old battery died and leaked acid onto it. solution: gonna just sawzall that poo poo off and relocate the battery to the frunk where it belongs.
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Aug 12, 2017 07:05
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is this now the de-facto mr2 thread anybody done a 5sgte build before?
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Aug 31, 2017 03:02
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SquirrelGrip posted:is this now the de-facto mr2 thread I like defacto MR2 thread. Need more deets on FR's car re: fuel pump saga. Here's an AW11 pic for motivation.  Also, 5SGTE in an AW11 or SW20? Here's some cool info: http://www.mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/395274-how-build-5sgte.html
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Aug 31, 2017 15:41
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If this is the defacto mr2 thread, here is a question: How stupid would it be to buy this? https://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/3990616?ad_cid=16
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Sep 1, 2017 00:07
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McStephenson posted:If this is the defacto mr2 thread, here is a question: Not.....stupid? But to pick it apart - it seems a little pricey for the condition. The wheels are pretty bad (to me, maybe not you?), I'd worry about the condition of the dash and the seats under those covers, and it needs paint. I wish I had t-tops versus the removable flip up roof, so those are cool. 166k may only be "low miles" in whacky Toyota 4age land, I'm not sure what the lifespan of the blower and related components are but they're getting pricey and hard to find. Exhausts don't exist for these anymore unless you find some Toyota dealer ratholing one away (ask me how I know!). But, it's a sub-$5k fun, unique little car. If you wants it, you should gets it!
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Sep 1, 2017 01:16
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Yea, a bit overpriced for what it is. For that price I would expect more updated suspension/bushings/engine/etc, especially with the paint/interior condition. Part of me still wants to buy a s/c someday, but a BT 20v swap is the better motor for the car. Garage2Roadtrip posted:The wheels are pretty bad (to me, maybe not you?) I swear people put the worst wheels on aw11's. They were so cheap for being a sports car for so long, they ended up in the hands of a lot of idiots(my younger self included).
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Sep 1, 2017 01:26
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AW11's seem to be such a difficult car to price. Like, I see great ones going for <$2000 (mine included), but then I see good N-A's hovering around $7500. It's just all over the place. Finding a legit book value is tough too. I think they taxed me on $1500 when I regg'ed it.
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Sep 1, 2017 01:34
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:AW11's seem to be such a difficult car to price. Like, I see great ones going for <$2000 (mine included), but then I see good N-A's hovering around $7500. It's just all over the place. Finding a legit book value is tough too. I think they taxed me on $1500 when I regg'ed it. The spectrum of available cars is sort of nuts. I've seen rotten shitbuckets, once-drivers with "Toyota owner" abuse, well-maintained but ratty drivers, primo restoration jobs. Huge price range. Then they all have weird collections of mods and different missing interior pieces. The SW20 is different, pretty much all of them are heavily modified rice rockets with enough crash damage to fill a Carfax server. Lots of JDMs too.
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Sep 1, 2017 01:51
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all the poorly modified sw20s tend to be turbos, which is why i personally would stay the gently caress away from them. plus the na looks better imo anyway without the buckteeth fog lamps and such, plus there are just so many engine swaps available that are better than the 3s-gte anyway. an na sw20 is among the best car mod platforms out there in my opinion.
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Sep 1, 2017 03:25
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financially racist posted:all the poorly modified sw20s tend to be turbos, which is why i personally would stay the gently caress away from them. plus the na looks better imo anyway without the buckteeth fog lamps and such, plus there are just so many engine swaps available that are better than the 3s-gte anyway. an na sw20 is among the best car mod platforms out there in my opinion. How do we feel about the yellow halogen accessory foglights on the aw11? A lot of the mountain driving I do around here ends in the dark and my headlights are poo poo. I do like the tidyness of the front end now, but need moar light!
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Sep 1, 2017 12:41
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