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I AM GRANDO posted:Those of you with aluminum boards, what do you do about static electricity? I just got a shock and saw a spark between two keys. I’m worried about it shorting out if I keep doing that. Should I worry about static electricity from walking on carpet harming my board? Touch something else to discharge any static you might have first. And yeah, you can totally kill your keyboard with static electricity.
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Dec 12, 2023 18:39
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 03:32 |
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OK, I am banging my head against the wall on this one because I haven't messed with anything keyboard related in forever and this is really frustrating. I have decided that I want to take one my 3-key macropads, and reprogram it so that it does media controls so I can easily control music when I'm indoor cycling. Even though it's QMK, this should be easy. I've done it a million times before with other keyboards; use QMK Configurator to make the keymap I want, hit the compile button, download the .hex file, put the keyboard into DFU mode, and use QMK Toolbox to flash it. Only this time it's not working. I flash my macropad, and then it's basically useless until I put it back in to DFU mode, and flash the default .hex file grabbed through an old version of QMK Toolbox. Even compiling and flashing the "default" layout as generated by the Configurator doesn't work. To make sure it's only happening to this macropad, I use Configurator and Toolbox and flash some other random QMK macropads I have, and it works no problem. Is it possible that there's an issue with the files that the configurator is using to compile the firmware? I'm not asking for a whole lot. Just 2 layers. Layer 0 is just "KC_MPRV", "LT(1,KC_MPLY)", "KC_MNXT" Layer 1 is just "BL_TOGG", "KC_NO", "RGB_TOG" The macropad PCB I have is one I know very few people have: a Woodkeys.click BigSeries 3-Key board, which is designed to use 3 of the big-rear end NovelKeys Big Switches. Not a lot of people have this macropad because the dude running the site was running a bunch of preorders for various products, sent out a handful of things, and then disappeared with everybody's money, never to be heard from again. https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/woodkeys/bigseries/3key  I have been at this for hours, and I am seriously about to just run some wires from the switches to a different macropad PCB just to get this stupid form factor to work, and I am way too dumb to try and get QMK MSYS working to try and compile something myself to flash. Either that or just throw the loving thing against the wall and give up.
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Jan 8, 2024 06:36
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Ewen Cluney posted:I went ahead and put it together with MSYS; putting your layout in and compiling it went just fine, though you'll have to see what happens when you flash it. Thank you! Your .hex file works, and all behavior is now as expected. Even in the connected devices list in QMK Toolbox it shows up correctly as what it is. I wonder why the Configurator kept spitting out something that wouldn't work? Either way, thanks for taking the time to take a crack at it. Time to figure out MSYS so I don't have this problem again in the future. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 17:51
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LochNessMonster posted:Is there a chance old keycap sets get a rerun? I’d probably give a kidney for something like nantucket selectric Depends on how old they are, if you want official ones, and if so, who made the official ones. That came out officially years ago, and since that was from Signature Plastics and had some unique keycaps, it's probably never going to run again because it's a whole hassle for them to set up to make them again since they were doubleshot. I haven't looked at SP in ages because I've been out of the keyboard game for years, but they used to let you be able to order a standard keycap set in the profile of your choice with keycap and legend color of choice (based on the color swatches available at the time), and if you don't care about the unique legends, you could fake your way to something close enough. No idea if that's still a thing. Beyond that, put out a WTB feeler post in the usual used mechanical keyboard spaces like r/mechmarket and be prepared to pay a premium, or see if there are any clones out there (they'll probably be dyesub instead of doubleshot).
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Jan 19, 2024 20:02
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I have been out of the mechanical keyboard game for years, and I am afraid of really diving back in to it because I'm sure things have changed immensely and I will buy everything. And now it's time to replace my daily driver keyboard. It's a 65% that's a cursed combination of being a RAMA M65-A that I ordered from Keyclack with brass plate and brass weight, so I guess it's a miracle I ever even got it. It's running a KBDfans DZ65 RGB V3 PCB, with Tecsee Purple Panda switches, and DSA Galaxy Class keycaps.  I keep forgetting to take myself off RAMA's mailing list, and like everyone else on the list, got the whiniest "I'm the victim here tho" email the other day that apparently also didn't address him not fulfilling GB orders for like 2 years or some poo poo, so that was basically my motivation to finally move on to a new keyboard, as I kind of want to use something fresh after using this for like 6 years. What I'm looking for: 65% (which to my own admission is solely because I like having my keycaps set up that way with the contrasting arrows, even though I never use the arrow keys). I am not interested in 75% or TKL boards, as they aesthetically don't do it for me (and I have several of those already). Heavy with chunky bezels. I want a keyboard that I don't have to worry about physically breaking; I want a keyboard that when people pick it up they ask why it's so heavy. Hotswap VIA support I am not interested in a keyboard that has a knob/rotary encoder that replaces one of the keys on the right (without the option of using a switch in its place). I was looking at the hibi.mx HIBIKI, because it ticks a lot of boxes of what I like (and I'm aware of the drama between them and rama), but I wanted to see if anybody had some other suggestions. Extra points if there is a matching macropad (I am currently also using a RAMA M6-A with an M6-C PCB that act as media controls and whatnot). I also think I need to stop being a coward and finally start using linear switches. I usually use tactile, or box navies because if I'm going to be clicky, I might as be the most obnoxious about it. The last time I used linear switches I was doing some stupid poo poo where I had MX yellows with 100g springs in them. What's the current meta on nice sounding/feeling linears? I at least know there are tons of factory lubed switches out there now made from all sorts of stuff, and I'd like to try them out (and not have to lube switches myself). Also as a side suggestion request/question: Are there any other mechanical keyboards out there (ideally in the 60-75% size of normal form factor and layout) not made by Tex? Ideally with at least QMK support (although VIA is preferable). My favorite travel/testing keyboard is still my Tex Yoda II, because it's really convenient to have a keyboard with a built-in pointing device, but that keyboard is really starting to get old and beat up. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 20, 2024 |
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Jan 20, 2024 23:45
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Gearman posted:Boy howdy do I have some news for you on the 65% front...it's far and away the most popular form factor in the hobby. Thank you for the suggestions! Yeah, back when I got my keyboard, 65% was considered like an oddball unstandardized size so people tended to shy away from it, and 60% was far more popular. I don't mind the 60% layout but I have enough of them, plus the aesthetics thing. I will definitely give serious consideration to one (or more) of your keyboard suggestions, as well as order some of the switches you suggested. Kind of wild stepping back into things beyond email blasts and seeing how much the landscape has changed. Are artisans still a big thing? I have a shitload from years ago from various makers, many of whom I'm sure no longer are in the game.
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Jan 21, 2024 01:45
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well why not posted:I got the RAMA email, what’s the story? Is it just that he is better at design than actually running a company, and has had people turn on him for not sending out items? It's a bit messier than that. I'll copy/paste a comment made by Wilba of wilba.tech in a recent discussion thread on Reddit about that rama email. For context, Rama used to date a person named Kate, who worked at RAMA Works. Wilba is a PCB designer who used to do some work with RAMA Works, designing PCBs for several Rama products. quote:Hey Rama, People in general have been unhappy with how Rama has been trying to play the victim for years, and give the outward appearance of a struggling business owner, but on social media was posting pictures of his new girlfriend, the designer fashion they were buying and wearing, and his McLaren 765LT he bought. He put the blame on being unable to fulfill orders on everyone and everything but himself, until eventually he just stopped shifting blame and just went to ignoring (his IG has had comments turned off for a long time now). There was some other stuff not mentioned, including reports that Rama had people brigade discussion threads about him on Reddit, Rama filing DMCA claims against HIBI.mx on social media platforms to try and get them suspended, and preemptively blocking customers from social media so they could not voice concerns about products they were still waiting on (eventually leading to comments on social media being turned off entirely). Also as expected, the many people who have hundreds or even thousands of dollars tied up in products that may or may not ever show up didn't appreciate getting Rama's "New Year's Message" email. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Jan 21, 2024 |
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Jan 21, 2024 09:43
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Badger of Basra posted:Sorry to skip to the end of the thread and ask this but...is WASD still making keyboards? It looks like most things on their website are sold out. WASD didn't adapt to a changing market and got buried because of it. They don't have anything unique or compelling to give anyone a reason to look at them anymore. Their peak was several years ago when mechanical keyboards were less common and they didn't have that much competition at their price point. But, keyboards got popular, and everyone started putting out their own, spanning the spectrum of price range, including the range that WASD keyboards occupy. Unless something has changed recently, the way of remapping keys on a WASD keyboard is awful, and far fewer people are willing to deal with that when you can a Keychron or something that has VIA support. Also, many people (myself included) found that WASD's custom keycaps straight up suck.
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Feb 19, 2024 21:39
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If you really want to see just how different a keyboard can be, see if there are any keyboard meetups happening around you and go to one. It's the easiest way to try out a wide variety of layouts, keycap materials and profiles, switches, and case materials, and an easy way to directly compare how those differences affect the typing experience. Otherwise, the only way to get an idea of what you might really like in a keyboard is to spend a bunch of money doing it the trial and error way. Also, there is plenty written out there about the benefits of using a split keyboard for better ergonomics compared to a "regular" keyboard that may be worth taking a look at. For many people, the biggest hurdle to using a split keyboard (asides from price and desk space), is just using a split keyboard. You've gotten so used to typing on a keyboard positioned in the middle, that moving to a keyboard positioned to have your forearm and wrists in a more natural alignment will probably feel weird. Also to a lesser degree, how "correct" you are in typing might cause some issues (assuming you touch type already, of course), namely what finger you use to hit the "b" key (you should be hitting it with your left index), but many split keyboards nowadays just put a "b" key on both sides. But yeah, the keyboard hobby can be a bottomless money-pit if you start chasing what you think is the "perfect" combination of parts for yourself.
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Feb 20, 2024 20:58
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death cob for cutie posted:Oh, now it comes up in VIA, and this is the result of me running my fingers from Tab to backslash/pipe: Box75 PCB is supposed to have ESD protection so you may want to reach out to someone about that. You've confirmed on a different computer that it's borked, right?
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Mar 19, 2024 21:35
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runchild posted:How annoying is the lack of dedicated arrow keys on a 60% keyboard? Not annoying at all. I prefer it over dedicated arrows, even. Map Caps Lock as an Fn key, put the arrows on a second layer where ESDF is. Now you have arrow keys at home row with only a single key distance to activate Fn with your pinkie, and only a single key distance for up. Left, down, and right are all already positioned where your fingers would normally be. I use a 65% keyboard for no reason other than the aesthetics that come from running different colored keys on the arrows and rightmost column. I never actually use those arrow keys because Fn + ESDF is way faster/more efficient because I don't have to move my hands off home row. I also have home/end on W/R and page up/page down on T/G I remapped my Caps Lock key to the key next to my actual arrows, but with a Kailh Speed Navy switch with an MX MX1A-1GCX spring to prevent accidental pressing (so the weight of a Super Black with the audible click of a Navy. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Apr 3, 2024 |
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Apr 3, 2024 23:11
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For laughs, I decided to replace the Tecsee Purple Pandas in my stupid M65-A with some Durock Dolphins (from what I understand these are the same as the Durock Silent Alpacas, just different colored) because I've been staying up a lot later and wanted to quiet my board down, plus I am years behind the curve on keyboard stuff so I might as well try some stuff I've never tried before, and to finally give linears in a daily driver an actual chance (I usually use tactile or clicky if I want to be a dick). Holy moly these Durocks are super quiet, especially in comparison. https://dai.ly/k6t4vhEFbq5jU2ArEDM I just ordered a syringe of Krytox off Amazon because the quietness of these switches made me realize that I lubed my stabs like 6 years ago and it's about time to give it another squirt or two because my stabilizers are comparatively loud now and I don't feel like taking my keyboard apart again. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Apr 11, 2024 |
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Apr 11, 2024 01:43
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kung fu jive posted:Here we go.... Well, I can't get VIA to connect to the zoom 98 for now so I'm in the same boat. Higher priority item: I might have a dead socket? The Fn socket won't register on the VIA key tester. Everything else on the board tested fine. I used a switch and lightly pressed it into each socket. For this one I fully seated the switch and it still won't register. I also noticed the LED is glowing green weakly and 'off' from the rest of the LEDs which are in sync. It pulses between green and then dims completely off and then back to green again. The rest of the LEDs do the rainbow. Terrible pic incoming: First step is to remap the key you have as a layer modifier to a different key like a letter or something, and then test it. Layer modifiers like MO on their own won't show up when tested in VIA tester or Switch Hitter because they don't output a signal for a tester to pick up. Temporarily remapping it to something that you know for sure outputs something is how you would test it definitively. If that doesn't work, try a different switch or just jump it with a paperclip to complete the circuit to rule out a dead switch. Secondly, if you have some buttons set to toggle specifically R, G, and B, cycle through those colors while watching the LED light. It may be a case that the LED has some bad solder points or is broken, and you aren't getting red and blue, so you're just getting green, and it'll dim depending on the color it's trying to show because of the varying levels of green present in the color it's trying to do.
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Apr 12, 2024 03:06
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There are also a few typing-based games out there to kill some time with. Asides from the most obvious/known one of Typing of the Dead, there are/should be a few other typing games out there on Steam. I remember liking Epistory back when it came out, and I think the publisher made a few other typing games, and I think that a few more typing games have come out now that mechanical keyboards have become more popular.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:06
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~Coxy posted:I would love to try a keyboard that had dedicated keys for every common programming character. Sounds like a job for the Hyper 7 keyboard or something to just have all the keys always... https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4
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Apr 19, 2024 04:33
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Eric the Mauve posted:If you're going to get o-rings you may as well just stick with rubber domes or scissors, in my spectacularly humble opinion. Yeah o-rings on switches feel like absolute mushy poo poo and don't even quiet things much, and people stopped doing that on the large when silent switches became readily available. Personally I'd just get whatever hotswap keyboard fit the budget and/or tastes and has decent reviews and then get some silent switches off Amazon or milktooth or wherever to put in and call it a day. My trial run of Durock Dolphin silent switches is going ok so far. They're still really quiet, although I may try out some silent tactile switches (maybe in one of my other boards) because I'm still not sure how I feel about linear switches. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 00:29
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sarcastx posted:Getting my first mech keyboard today - a Keychron v5 Max on Gateron Jupiter Reds. Pretty stoked to give it a crack and am already planning a modification that I thought I'd ask y'all about : Switching the spring to something stiffer is pretty common, and many people even do that just for their spacebars to compensate for the larger key size. You're not going to find something appreciably stiff in a switch tester. Also switch testers are literally just "here's a rectangle with some switch-sized holes cut in it that you can press switches in to". Switches pop out of them EZ PZ. For my keyboards (and even my fightsticks that take MX compatible switches), I always have some keys that I don't want to easily/accidentally press (typically they key I have remapped to Caps Lock, as my "normal" caps lock key is remapped to a function key for layer activation. My go-to is using a spring from a Cherry MX MX1A-1GCX switch, which is 350cN activation. I'm not sure if you can get those anymore (they were kind of a meme switch being sold by a site that tends to specialize in meme keycaps and switches), but you could always get some fuckoff heavy springs from Mechbox or something. I always put those springs in something like a Kailh Speed Navy clicky switch, so not only was it a stiff switch to press, it was loud so you know if you actually pressed it. There are some 150g MX springs on Amazon you can try, but IMO I don't think those are heavy enough to prevent accidental activation (although to be fair, I used to daily a keyboard that was all MX clears with 150g springs, so my sense of what's heavy is a little skewed). You can try those and see how it feels, or maybe even double up on them. I have some really cursed keyboards I've modded that I should take pictures of some day. CRAYON posted:Rebind capslock to control or an fn key please I beg you. It's in too good of a spot to waste. Yeah this rules. Using ESDF for arrow keys is great when the Fn layer key is a single finger reach away. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 26, 2024 00:02
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Discussion Quorum posted:I almost went with a Ducky One 3 but saw some talk of dodgy QC on those as well. Between the two, a local return/exchange option carried the day, and I don't think that's unreasonable for recommending something. Ducky used to be a top choice when the field was limited, but now there are tons of companies at a variety of price ranges with a variety of innovations and unique features, and Ducky didn't keep up. A lot of keyboard companies fell to this trap, especially during the pandemic lockdowns.
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Apr 30, 2024 02:10
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territory considering I'm already over budget, though, so I'll give it a try stock first.
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Oh, I was digging through some old pictures and found this cursed one: Up top is my old daily driver: a Magicforce 68 (remember when these used to be super popular like 7 years ago?), with MX Clears and SPRiT 150g springs. Below is just some dumb thing I had, which is a BigKeys LX with an aftermarket keyguard (these keyboards were intended to be used for industrial environments), but I replaced the stock switches with 280g Tai-Hao APC (Alps-compatible) clicky switches for reasons. It is probably the worst keyboard I have to attempt to type on. 
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Apr 30, 2024 02:19
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Nestharken posted:280? I made a gimmick board with Kailh Box Ancient Greys (which are 100g) and it takes some serious effort to type on even though I have pretty strong hands. Do you have to lean into each keypress or something? The BigKeys is awful to type on for reasons not necessarily related to switch weight. It's just a big dumb ortholinear keyboard with giant keys meant to be used with gloves and poo poo (it was also marketed towards people with vision impairment, and there was a more colorful version aimed at kids). The enter key has like 3 stabilizers on it because it's so big. With the keyguard on, you can't slide your fingers from key to key; every keystroke is a very deliberate press and finger lift. With the keyguard off though, typing wasn't really an issue keypress-wise, I would just get hung up on the ortho layout. It's just a dumb meme board I would bring to keyboard meetups for laughs. TBH, after using that Magicforce with 150g springs as my daily for like a year and some change, 280g really doesn't feel that much different. That Magicforce did ruin my scale for how "light" or "heavy" a switch is... I have a tendency to just hulk smash any switch below like 100g because I got so used to pressing really hard constantly, even years later. Also in case you were wondering how much weight it takes to activate one of those Tai-Hao switches, here's a coin test (and those are quarters): 
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Apr 30, 2024 04:44
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Discussion Quorum posted:Oh my God. VIA is a web app? You can totally download it and run it on your own computer. The experience is exactly the same. Being able to do it on the web is just convenient if you don't want to install anything or you need to configure something when you're not on your system.
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May 1, 2024 02:22
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 03:32 |
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Opioid posted:Aw man. I’ve been really good and haven’t bought a GB keycap set for a couple years now. But then somehow novelkeys alerts me to this one: I want this. Goddamit.
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May 6, 2024 10:19
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