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Seat Safety Switch posted:Not supposed to be. Needs magic tools apparently too, but you can fake it. Don't have a car new enough to have tried it myself. The best back alley way I was shown was a 1/2 drive ratchet and extension. Then you Spin the crank pulley and keep the extension between the belt and pulley. It slips it on and is a similar method to what most tools do. But almost everyone has a ratchet and extension.
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Nov 6, 2017 05:36
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| # ? May 12, 2024 11:05 |
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The gates stretch fit tool is like $25. I have done the "unbolt a/c compessor, put belt on, wedge ac back into place" move a few times when we first got 08s into the shop.
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Nov 6, 2017 07:09
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I think lisle's is even cheaper.
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Nov 6, 2017 08:22
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Well, there's an audible clicking while rotating the PS pump on the
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Nov 7, 2017 02:27
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So the new pump is in, and the noise came back. Curiously enough loosening the tension on the belt stops the noise, tightening causes it to come back. So either the replacement pump has the same issue or the alternator is the real culprit here. Loosened the belt is still tight enough that I don't think it'll slip so time will see when I'll have to deal with this problem again. Impreza parts are being shipped to the border so it sits another week waiting. I'll tackle the front brakes tomorrow if the weather holds.
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Nov 12, 2017 20:54
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Got the new seal installed on the Impreza and re-torqued the oil bump bolts to spec.  Threw on the new waterpump, replaced the timing components piece by piece and cleaned up the front of the motor as best as I could from the crud on it. Neglected to take any pictures  Replaced the front brake pads and rotors with the new and shiny  OId pads and rotors look like they were still good. Pads had a good amount left, and the rotor looked thick enough, although I didn't bother checking with calipers to see how far gone they really were.  Wife was complaining about vibration through the brake pedal when braking and they were squealing a little so I just bought new without checking as it's cheap enough.  Got about this far before I lost the light and the warmth. So close but the finish touches will have to wait unit the next day. Managed to redo the wiring for the hella horns as this was the first time I actually ordered the wiring harness with them and it was the biggest rip off ever. The drat harness, while looking pretty slick, oxidized in one year and the wiring turned to powder. terribly sealed and did not hold up in the slightest.  The next morning, with the warm temperatures near zero, buttoned it all up and it's ready for bedding in the new brakes and threw on the winter wheels at the same time.  And because you've had to suffer through my terrible phone photography, just look how photogenic this pup is.  
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Nov 21, 2017 04:46
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I wanna pet that dog. Those big ears 
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Nov 21, 2017 12:37
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Larrymer posted:I wanna pet that dog. Those big ears He'd love it, he's the friendliest Shepherd ever. Back onto cars, in my quest to track down and fix the oil leak I neglected completely to think of what the root cause was of the issue. Seal being pushed out would probably indicate high crank case pressures. Today after work I check the engine bay and notice the dip stick isn't fully seated, and when I remove the oil cap I get a good amount of air coming out. Figured it's the pcv valve I pull it out ( was a little pain as it was really stuck on and even after penetrating oil it wouldn't budge. It ended up rotating the metal T piece it sits on until the T jammed against the block and with a little more force it broke through. Well being a
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Nov 22, 2017 01:12
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Part of my pre-purchase routine for every Subaru is to put my hand over the oil fill and see if it's blowing or sucking, since absolutely zero "oil change shop" POs will ever think to change a PCV. It can't be good for the rings to be running that much crankcase pressure.
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Nov 22, 2017 04:53
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Wait until you need to do the equivalent on the porch.  Also, love that doggy
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Nov 22, 2017 06:30
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Hopefully not derailing much, but you guys made me paranoid, especially since there's no PCV valve on my car (instead, half of the PCV system is built into a tiny hole in the plastic intake manifold, and the breather is built into the valve cover, with a hose running to the air intake before the throttle body). I've noticed oil accumulating in the resonator just before the throttle body (where the breather hose connects), but not much. Just enough to piss you off when you grab it with bare hands. Just went out and started it... had very evenly timed pulses of sucking and blowing  from the oil filler. Is that right, or not? My oil use has gone up a little bit, but I also have 190k (miles, not km). Using about 2 quarts between 9k synthetic oil changes. Vacuum, going by MAP readings, is a steady 25 inches at idle, but I don't know how laggy OBD2 is. It doesn't leak any oil, despite having all factory gaskets (aside from the thermostat gasket).I remember my old Altima would flat out stall if I pulled the oil filler cap while idling (and if I held the throttle to keep it from stalling, would blow oil everywhere). It did have a PCV valve, but getting to it meant yanking the power steering pump and/or the intake manifold. Pulling the filler cap on the Saturd while running didn't affect anything. No oil splatter, no change in idle, and putting my hand over it was the evenly spaced in/out pulses - just left my hands smelling like dirty oil. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 12:03
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What kind of car do you have STR?
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Nov 22, 2017 15:22
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He's got a Saturn ion iirc. 25" mercury sounds a little high for idle, I'd expect around 20" but that might be just sensor inaccuracy or engine dependant. With the suck and blow is there a noticeable trend towards more suck than blow? With how you described the pcv system on it I wouldn't be surprised if the orifice in the intake is partially clogged, can you get at it with a needle or can you force some degreaser through it? On the Subaru's the valve is actually a little dumbbell shaped plunger that acts as a restriction and check valve, after enough build up that plunger stops moving and you get what I had happen. If there's no physical moving piece in your system and it's just a restriction via small orifice I can imagine it could get partially blocked and cause increased pressure. Hopefully it's easy to access and inspect.
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Nov 22, 2017 16:06
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slidebite posted:Wait until you need to do the equivalent on the porch. Oh god I hope I don't have to. It's been mechanically taken care of very well if not cosmetically, so hopefully my list of mechanical to-do is short. Still dreading getting quotes for the body work come spring as I just know I'll be bending over and they'll be coming in dry
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Nov 22, 2017 16:16
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Unfortunately, it's a wear part so short of it being already replaced because it was bad or as preventative maintenance, it's something that will eventually need to be done. Most people would never do it as strict preventive because of  and expense.I noticed a little more suction on my oil cap than I was comfortable with and some weeping around the plenum boots, so I did mine just to get it done. About a week of 2-3 hours a day of loving around, finally got it done. 75% of the loving around was because I didn't want to drop the motor. I wouldn't do it that way again... although maybe a Boxster has easier access to the back of the motor? I also did the cam chain tensioners at the same time which added to the hijinks.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:51
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We're talking about the AOS right? From the records it was replaced along with the associated hoses on Oct 2016 at 80k miles so I should be good on that front for a while. There isn't really good access to that area on the boxster either, it looks more roomy than the 911 at least but still not what I would call easy. I've got to dig through the history of it again and make a list of what's coming up. Off the top of my head is oil change before taking it out of storage, front brake pads, and maybe the engine air filter (how dusty is California usually?) Plugs and coils were done within the last year or so, rotors were changed not that long ago either. Oh and of course the tie rods, and an alignment.
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Nov 22, 2017 19:17
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Yep, AOS. If it's been done you should be golden, so that's awesome.
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Nov 22, 2017 19:20
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Bajaha posted:(how dusty is California usually?)
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Nov 22, 2017 22:24
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Bajaha posted:He's got a Saturn ion iirc. 25" mercury sounds a little high for idle, I'd expect around 20" but that might be just sensor inaccuracy or engine dependant. Yup, Ion with the L61 2.2 Ecotec. It's equal parts suck and blow, and neither seems particularly excessive. I have to pull the intake manifold to get at the orifice, but apparently the official TSB when they force oil out of the RMS is to clean it (orifice) out with a tiny drill bit (not attached to a drill) - just shove it in by hand and pull poo poo out. It's apparently a pretty easy intake to pull; there's no coolant going through it; seems to be 10 nuts, a few brackets holding other stuff, a couple of vacuum lines, throttle body wiring, and the MAP sensor. The intake manifold gaskets are apparently (normally) reusable. Forcing oil out of the RMS was a common enough complaint that they actually issued a TSB. The orifice is small enough that running a pipe cleaner through it isn't an easy option - I don't know if degreaser would degrade the manifold or not (plastic). I may be mistaken on the 25".. it may have been more like 22". Either way, it's about the same number idling vs coasting in gear. It could be a sensor issue - the MAP sensor on it now is a used OEM that I nabbed from Pick n Pull awhile back (the original read the same IIRC, but I would get a MAP out of range code occasionally - I haven't had a MAP code since replacing it). FWIW, I've run synthetic in it since I bought it (at 60k, about to hit 190k), always changed oil based on the oil life monitor (which usually goes off around 8500-9000 miles), and consumption is still reasonable; it's just gone up a bit in the past year. The oil filler cap has some poo poo burned onto the bottom of it (I guess that'd be a little bit of sludge?), but it's been that way since I bought the car, and hasn't gotten any worse. No obvious sludging (dipstick looks brand loving new, for example), but AFAIK the engine has never been opened up (valve cover hasn't even been off to the best of my knowledge). TBH I was a bit tipsy and paranoid when I made that yesterday. The oil consumption is pretty low for an engine with this many miles, it's just gone up a bit over the past year. Oil consumption does skyrocket if I change oil brands - with Mobil 1 it's a pretty steady 2-2.5 quarts between oil changes (used to be 1 quart up until about 150k)... Pennzoil made it jump to 4, then back to 2 on the next change (with M1). Walmart's Supertech Synthetic.. uh... went through 6 quarts in 7000 miles, 3 quarts the next oil change (which was back to Mobil 1), and the current oil change (also Mobil 1) is sitting right at 2-2.5 quarts used (with the "change oil" message showing for about 500 miles - it's getting changed today). I top it off with whatever conventional gas station brand is handy when it's low. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 13:20
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your life is good. carry on. 
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Nov 23, 2017 19:30
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Meh, seems a little high but from the limited knowledge I know of those things there really is no PCV per se. If you are getting a ton of spray out of the vent on the valve cover to the intake or wherever it goes, you might be getting blow-by the rings. If you aren't up to sinking money and rebuilding it, throw a can of mystery poo poo/engine flush in it before you change the oil and see if it helps loosen up the rings.
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Nov 23, 2017 22:29
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It goes into the air intake, just before the throttle body. It's not a lot, just enough to be a bit annoying when I have to remove it to clean the throttle body and forget to put on gloves. Throttle body seems to need cleaning about once every ~18 months, otherwise the idle starts hunting a little. I don't plan to rebuild this engine whenever it wears out/dies/etc... it's a Saturn with nearly 200k miles. Not really worth the money to rebuild, and the engine is as common as Honda D and F series motors (i.e. you trip over them every few steps at the junkyard) I intended to throw some Seafoam in before the oil change, but meh... changed it today. It was a bit lower than I thought though, so I think this time the total consumption was about 3 quarts over about 9000 miles (I didn't actually measure what came out though, just eyeballed it in the drain pan). The only time I've ever seen smoke was when I was running that Supertech oil, and only when winding it out. Of the 190k on the car, I've put 130k on it myself, and for all but 3 oil changes, it's had either Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 High Mileage. I'll probably seafoam it (both via vacuum and by putting a bit in the oil and letting it idle for a bit) at the next oil change. And yeah, no PCV valve, just an orifice in the intake manifold, and a breather hose going into the intake. It's a pretty simple engine.. no EGR, no power steering pump, no PCV valve; only vacuum lines are for evap, FPR, and brake booster (the MAP mounts to the intake manifold). Anyway... thanks for putting up with me hijacking the thread. 
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Nov 24, 2017 07:15
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Welp looked under it tonight after I got a whiff of burning oil... and uh, it's puking from the front and rear seals, plus the oil pan gasket, and the intake resonator has oil pooling in it. This is all new within the past week. Guess it's time to pull the intake.
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Nov 28, 2017 06:26
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Oh man, look what I started  On a more positive note I did an oil change on the Baja and turned it onto active insurance and holy poo poo I forgot what it felt like. Feels stupid fast again and puts a grin from ear to ear on my face.  And I got tempted by the Black Friday deals and bought some upgrades for the Porsche from WinnipegHID, 
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Nov 28, 2017 15:29
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Minor anti-archive bump The frozen north can really suck sometimes  Washing the car is pretty futile and everyone's car gets resprayed to this lovely off-grey  If you're not from a northern wasteland you may have not seen this natural phenomenon. When the temperature gets really nice and cold the humidity in the air precipitates out and forms tiny hexagonal crystal plates that are suspended in the air. these crystals drift downwards and due to their shape they tend to stay fairly horizontal, causing two distinct bright spots on either side of the sun. As the light from the sun passes through the crystals it's refracted, the optics work out such that we see each bright spot at around 22 to either side of the sun.. These are known as "Sundogs". They're a fairly regular occurance up here but it's still a very interesting optical phenomenon.  So having had enough of this cold bullshit, we jetted off to warmer climates and enjoyed a week of day drinking, sunbathing, and being as relaxed as possible under a warm sun.  Now that we're back and the prospect of warm weather is no longer a fevered dream of a mad man, I am stocking up on parts for the Boxster to fix it up and bring it to showroom condition. Due the loving care of the previous owner a lot of small plastic trim has been... well... destroyed. Now the following may be pretty much useless to everyone else, but it's a catalog of the parts and hardware for all the various plastiques that I have ordered  Left and Right Front Bumper Trim (6) 987 505 525 00 01C 987 505 526 00 01C  Left and Right Front Fender Liners w/ hardware (1) 987 504 123 04 987 504 124 04 999 073 231 09 999 073 227 09  USDM Drivers side (L) Underbody Cover w/ hardware (4) 997 504 343 02 999 049 028 40 999 073 231 09  Left and Right Mud Guard / Wheel arch trim w/ hardware (10) 987 504 793 00 01C 987 504 794 00 01C 999 073 231 09  USDM Drivers side (L) Windshield Cowl Wiper Cap (9) 997 572 569 04 And I've also gotten a used rear trunk actuator so that I can actually open the trunk without reaching into the rear wheel well (10,15)  Plus the front and rear emblems as the california sun, and a lovely detailer, have done their work on them and they look ratty. And the plastic seat reclining knobs that have been broken. And here I thought that Subaru parts prices were outrageous... And since you've made it this far, chill out and learn from the puppy on how to maximize your relaxation. 
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Feb 21, 2018 03:26
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On grassroots motor sports there is a build forum thread where a guy has like 6 boxsters and his post is about getting a totally submerged flood boxster going again. Maybe nothing applies to you but it is a super fun read!
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Feb 21, 2018 03:52
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Oh God  https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/flood-car-my-2004-porsche-boxster-s-se/136449/page1/ BTW, locally anything with a flood title is branded as Parts-Only, this is going to be an interesting read.
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Feb 21, 2018 04:17
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Bajaha posted:Oh God It is good stuff but this dude seems to know his stuff , and he didnt really mean to buy this one! Very good thread so far.
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Feb 21, 2018 05:25
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The dude's crazy but in a good way, caught up with his thread and it looks like it's tasted blood. I'm still in the belief that flood cars are definitely  and I have no problems agreeing with my local agencies that flood cars should be labeled as parts only. I can't imagine some not as enthusiast as him being able to revive something without it having a future of rust, mildew, and electrical issues. In other news, contrary to my initial thought of having this car as a fix, enjoy, then flip, I'm leaning towards keeping it a little longer and doing some personal touches. I've stumbled across these tail lights and I've really started to like them. Have to search some more to find reviews but I'm really digging the look of these.  Hopefully they're made by someone reputable and good quality.
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Mar 4, 2018 06:08
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So... I got really close to selling the Baja, was just about to take a deposit on it before a good friend helped me talk it through and I've come up with a new plan. For the last two? years or so I've started to lose my passion for the project, it became a chore to work on it and I thought I was done with it. But I realise that it's just a shift of what it currently is and what I want it to be. My tastes have changed, and if I want to find my drive for this car again, I will change it again to suit what I want from it. So far I've decided to: 1. Remove the sport seats and throw in the factory heated pleather ones. The seats are nice but a bit of a pain for dailying especially in the winter. 2. Remove the Racecomp engineering coilovers and replace with factory height suspension. Primarily using the car in winter so the lower ride height is more of a hindrance than it's worth 3. Redo the hood so that it weighs less than a ton 4. Clean up some of the cosmetic issues by either refurbishing existing pieces or making new 5. Fix some niggling issues I've had with the car that take away from my enjoyment of it. Being a little OCD about things being 'perfect' on a project car is something I have to work through and learn to accept. 6. Find some relatively low-cost OEM subaru wheels to throw on the Baja as the forester alloys on it now are really beat up. The latest trend going through the Baja community is putting on crosstrek wheels. I'm actually a fan of this too so I'll be looking around to see what the prices are like.  And of course, it wouldn't be a winter without some sort of accident. Was parked downtown-ish on the street, we were out celebrating my wife getting a new job, and we come back to this:  no note, no witnesses, maybe some camera footage from the building that we parked in front of but the security guard was less than helpful. In any case, no one injured, still drives fine, police report made, insurance claim started, it'll get fixed in a few weeks. Otherwise, impulse purchases ahoy! First things first, time to take the cars out of the garage and make some room.  The install process was really quick, few minutes at the most. Porsche has made it really easy to get to the lights, just a few screw clips to undo to remove the trunk lining and then it's just three nuts to remove and the light comes right out.  The holes have a little room for adjustment to center them in the opening. I think I did a pretty good job so far with them but I could probably improve the fitment on the drivers side. The passenger side is pretty much perfect.  Before:  After:   It's bright out and I was using my phone camera so it doesn't capture the lights all that well in terms of lit colour and brightness. I was messing around with lighting the various parts with the hazards, position, rear fog, brake, etc.  The lights came in and I have to say, they do look nice and they modernize the back end. I really like them. The construction of the lights looks good, I can see the rows of what looks like 10W resistors spaced out inside the housing. It looks like there's enough room between them that heat dissipation will not be an issue. Next thing is once the weather is consistently above zero I'll start working on the porsche, replacing all the plastics I've bought and start futzing around with the tie rods and rear trunk release.
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Mar 24, 2018 17:44
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You should get Method MR501/MR502s. I know they cost actual money but they are also amazing.
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Mar 24, 2018 18:44
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Tempting, I've got to look up prices, I'm trying to avoid throwing too much more money at the Baja but I do like that style (My wife doesn't so this might be a tough sell.) I've got two guys on my facebook with Bajas that ran method wheels at one time or another   Personally with mine I would probably end up going with the bronze ones if I do make the jump to them. Oh, and incase you haven't seen it, the white Baja above is usually sporting these nowadays 
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Mar 24, 2018 21:49
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One of the colours of Methods was a limited run and you can't get it anymore. It may be bronze. I guess that would give you an excuse to get them powdercoated..
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Mar 25, 2018 01:43
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So... I've had a little bit of oops happen in the garage. I misplaced a jack stand and the car slipped off of it when I was lifting the other side and caused some damage. I was using the new lift pucks I've ordered and while they work great for lifting the car without damaging the lift points, they don't work that well for providing a non slip surface for the jack stand to contact.  Lesson learned, luckily no bodily harm was done but this probably isn't going to be cheap.     Turns out that blue line is my clutch line. Woops. On the plus side, it looks like that piece of line has a disconnect right past where it enters into the frunk area and one midway down the body so I'm hoping it's not too terrible to replace. Other casualties include the drivers fender liner and the passenger side underbody plastic. Well, now I guess you get to laugh at me being a dummy.
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Mar 28, 2018 03:24
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Ooooof. Hopefully it's cheaply fixable.
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Mar 28, 2018 04:09
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Oh poo poo man. Not sure if this interests you or not, but I noticed my local costco has the 5000lb Quickjack for $1100. For sure not cheap, but it's pretty drat handy and a smoking deal since I think they're $1300 US normally. It lifts the car enough to drop the motor.
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Mar 28, 2018 04:16
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I've got to check that out, I don't think I've ever seen a quick jack at Costco before but maybe I missed it, we've got three in the city so I'll look around. Lifting these is a pain since the underbody is all plastics with no marked lift points up front other the two at the rockers. I've been using the method that involves using the rear lift point first and the chassis stiffness to lift the front off first, then once there's a stand in front using a second jack to support the car from the rear subframe and lowering the first jack and placing a stand. Rinse and repeat for the other side. A quick jack would make that incredibly easy and the only thing it blocks is replacing the underbody plastics, so for front end work and oil changes it's a synch. Thanks for the tip! As for cost, I've sent an email to my parts guy and I hope to hear from him tomorrow, I'm guessing between $300-400 usd for the parts.
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Mar 28, 2018 04:38
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I am probably just misunderstanding but then where does the dealer put the lift spots at?
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Mar 28, 2018 05:33
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The jacking points on the rockers but bajahas problem is he's doing them one at a time and then putting a stand on the other end. I can be a little tricky to get all 4 points up.
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Mar 28, 2018 05:41
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| # ? May 12, 2024 11:05 |
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Gotcha
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Mar 28, 2018 05:53
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