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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That thermostat seems like it could fail dangerous if the coil fails, since it won't open as quickly as expected.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seminal Flu posted:

only in play when you're hammering it, and I only do that for short bursts.

Does not compute

Though in all seriousness, while it is a very German solution, it's one that makes me go "neat" more than "what the gently caress".

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If you're not getting under the car, why worry?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Next time I get a DI car, I'm tempted to make a can of sprayed-in cleaner an every-oil-change maintenance item.

Also, EGR blockoff and a catch can.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BloodBag posted:

I can't say I've ever heard of a MK3 Focus having this problem, and they're all direct injected. What about the Isuzu Axiom? Or a bunch of KIAs with that GDI stuff. It seems to me it's more of a German car issue, as VAG cars are well known for coking up, and apparently so are BMWs. Does Porsche or Mercedes to this too?

I know toyota takes care of it by having a second set of intake injectors.

Does the Focus have EGR? I wonder if it's worse on forced-induction engines. My Mazdaspeed3 had nasty as gently caress gunked up valves.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Wrar posted:

The hood needs a NACA duct.

Everything needs NACA ducts.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Why not get a Fumoto?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seminal Flu posted:

Clearance. The drain plug is less than 1 1/2" from the fins of the transmission pan and is recessed between fins on the transfer case. It's tight.

Ah, so same idea as the video but not nearly as much room. Not even one of their SX or BSX valves?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Can you pull the front driveshaft and test drive without it?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've never heard of U-joints whining, usually they clunk like motherfuckers.

What's the front driveshaft look like? I'm guessing it's a single piece, in which case orientation shouldn't matter relative to the flanges on either the transfer case or the front differential. If it's a two piece and you split the halves without maintaining orientation, then that could be a balance issue, but that should be rattling the whole drat car instead of just making noise.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Ah, I follow - but if the joints are binding up it seems like it would make the shaft vibrate like hell as well. If you can disconnect each of the flanges, it should be pretty apparent even just moving them by hand whether or not they're too stiff (or sloppy).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Does the problem still go away if you remove the IBS module again? I'd focus heavily on any wiring specific to it first.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





meatpimp posted:

I haven't unplugged it yet, but I'm sure it'll all go away other than the "IBS not found" error. Thing about it is that the IBS IS the negative battery cable... it's a little electronic addon connected to the terminal. :shrug:

loving hell dude.

Clearly the soul of a German engineer is powered by pure schadenfreude.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Alarbus posted:

They're claiming a 30hp increase since you're dropping drivetrain losses a bit, that's maybe a bit optimistic.

I'd wager that a back to back dyno run would show this result, but we don't race dynos. On a real road, the car still has to accelerate everything attached to it. I'm assuming that this is only completely uncoupling the front driveshaft from the transfer case - so even though the car isn't driving the front wheels directly, the wheels are still attached to the hubs, CVs, differential, and front driveshaft, all of which still consume some energy to spin up.

Their video even shows the front wheels completely stationary on the RWD pull.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, the 4L60E is super sensitive to fluid levels.

Of course this begs the question of "why" in regards to it being low.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





At that price is he just replacing that clutch pack, or doing a full on rebuild?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Sell the BMW, buy this.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





meatpimp posted:

I'm going to compression fitting a patch in. At least there's some room to work where it's busted. (Edit: gently caress it, I pulled out my flare tools, I'll fix it the right way. :( )

Thank you for not being Scotty Kilmer.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That is literally the first thing I had to eat after we landed in Hawaii. poo poo is gooooooood.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'm having trouble getting my bearings from the photo but given the giant hex... is that in the side of the oil pan? Because the only thing like that on my LS1 is the oil level sensor.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yep, I think that's the exact one I have. It's amazing.

I have a bar version too just for those once in a rare while times I need to flare something else, because that's a tool where you can't trust the rentals.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





My Opel's headlight circuit is not only run through the switch, it's unfused.

Yeah.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





STR posted:

real edit: vvvv I think the Ford's was also unfused, hence the built-in circuit breaker.

Not even that on the Opel, which is why over the years the community has increasingly pushed "headlight rewiring" as job number one if you don't want the car to burn to the ground. Nothing says "good decision" like "German GM"!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

what if you took all of the worst aspects of germans engineering cars, and combined it with all the worst aspects of GM?

Then you have the body built by the French.

It's a very pretty driveway paperweight.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





My CR-V is the same way but only three quarts on it. I love it for both the simplicity of the job and the fact that they clearly went to some effort to make the drain and refill consistent. No loving guess and check.

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