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Wobbly Python posted:I'm using an oil filter intended for cars on my motorcycle and it hasn't hurt a thing yet. There's a reason most motorcycle oil filters cross reference to car oil filters.
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 16:14 |
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# ? May 1, 2024 19:52 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:There's a reason most motorcycle oil filters cross reference to car oil filters. People are monsters?
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 16:23 |
An hf204 is identical to a z436 IIIRC, there's no harm in it.
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 20:14 |
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Same. Thanks Ford!!
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# ? Aug 29, 2018 22:24 |
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I have become comfortably degloved.
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# ? Aug 29, 2018 22:42 |
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R-Type posted:I have become comfortably degloved. I cut the fingers off a new pair of gloves recently because the interior seam dug into my fingernails and I couldn't trim it enough. Told myself I'd buy a proper pair of gloves but it has been several weeks and now I don't want to. Also, my bike is slowly becoming a rat bike and I think I'm all right with that.
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# ? Aug 31, 2018 03:48 |
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Dammit I got myself this time. Apparently the last time I flushed my brakes I rounded off a couple nipples and said "Eh, gently caress it, I'll deal with it later."
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# ? Oct 8, 2018 21:54 |
I filled my shock with air instead of nitrogen because my usual guy broke his gauge and I can't be hosed driving half an hour and paying twenty bucks.
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# ? Oct 8, 2018 21:59 |
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I didn't even replace parts in the top end when I rebuilt the motor on a bike to ride in the Cannonball
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# ? Oct 9, 2018 01:24 |
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I was messing with the brake lever on my 701sm and some plunger thingy for the brake light switch fell out so I shoved a shaped piece of ziptie in there and it seems to actuate fine now.
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# ? Oct 12, 2018 01:52 |
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My bike is overdue for an oil change and was running low. Instead of doing the oil change I just topped it up. That's not so bad, but then I neglected to put the filler cap back on. Left it overnight, rode it to a store this morning and was wondering why there was spatter all over the right side of my bike. Now I have to decide if I should head home and hope to find the cap on the street or head to Cycle Gear and see if they have one in stock.
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# ? Oct 14, 2018 19:56 |
I have a Taiwanese 2t 50cc scooter I bought for eighty bucks, it sat motionless outdoors for a year before I got it so the owner was convinced it was a total loss. The petrol cap doesn't quite keep rain out of the fuel tank (they all do this, if you have a cheap scooter buy a bike cover) so the carb and tank were all packed with sediment. I cleaned out the carb, threw in a fuel filter and flushed the tank half-assedly to get it going. It runs very well and is exceptionally fast for what it is, has chunky tyres that lean like a bike and a good handling balance, so I enjoy riding it and use it nearly every day to visit local suppliers and the corner shop. Problem is, there's loads of mud hiding in the nooks of the tank so every morning without fail the carb has some water in it. It'll start and idle (pilot jet is above the water line, auto choke functions) but wont accept any throttle (main jet submerged). I cbf draining the carb with a screwdriver every day, especially when the drain screw is all chewed out and rusty. Correct solution: take the tank out, either find a way to clean out all the mud or just get a replacement. My solutions: As soon as it starts up, there's a brief window when you can open the throttle and run it up to fairly high revs and keep it there before water starts making it through the carb. You hear it stop firing when it starts to suck in the water, but if you've brought the revs up enough it clears the water and starts firing again before it can fall all the way to idle and stall; the flywheel effect of the cvt and wheel spinning stop the engine from stalling instantly. If the above doesn't work (because it's rained heavily the night before or I haven't run the bike for a week), I leave it idling and just lay it down on its side for a few seconds until the water spills out of the carb vent and it's good to go. I've been doing this for about six months now.
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# ? Oct 14, 2018 20:47 |
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My chain needs tightened and I've had a socket for the axle nut in my Amazon shopping cart for three months. My front turn signals are lovely flush-mount two-wire eBay specials installed by the PO. Stock signals are three-wire, one of which being the running lights. I resolved the running lights by terminating them and leaving the (covered) ends of the wires near the lights on the inside of the fairing. They will remain that way for as long as I own the bike. My rear brake squeaks loudly at certain spots on the rotor while dragging the brake at low speeds and I'm not sure I care enough to ever fix it. I've tried grease on the backs of the pads and actually properly torqueing the caliper and welp emotionally checked out. I have a new front tire leaning against a wall in my office. It's been there a year. One of the screws for my exhaust insert is rounded off and only partially screwed in and will likely never be removed by me. I don't know how old the brake fluid is, and I intend to wait until it's the color of Yuengling. I rarely wear bike jeans on my commute anymore. Edit: Oh yeah, CCT needs replaced. Never gonna happen. Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Oct 15, 2018 |
# ? Oct 15, 2018 20:50 |
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Ok you're the first one I'm concerned about you might want to address some of those things
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# ? Oct 15, 2018 23:04 |
Fifty Three posted:My chain needs tightened and I've had a socket for the axle nut in my Amazon shopping cart for three months. I'd have guessed you're the average gn250 owner but you said fairings so Ninja 250?
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# ? Oct 15, 2018 23:43 |
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Ok you're the first one I'm concerned about you might want to address some of those things Replace your tire, those things have a shelf life. And fix your chain and do your brakes. You probably need new lines too. And if you don't know how old your fluid is, it's already the color of lovely beer.
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 00:51 |
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I lost one of the bolts that keeps the core inside my muffler and it slowly vibrates out over the course of about a thousand miles, so instead I just pound it back into place with a mallet every so often
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 04:19 |
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Slavvy posted:I'd have guessed you're the average gn250 owner but you said fairings so Ninja 250? HenryJLittlefinger posted:hooo boy yeah Just replaced f/r brake pads, sound didn't go away (or started after I replaced them, I can't remember now ). The brakes function perfectly other than the noise. Brake fluid looks fine in the sight glass, but that'll likely happen next summer. Lines.... Edit: Made an appointment for the tire (and having them adjust the chain while the bike is there), I thought this was a safe space t Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Oct 16, 2018 |
# ? Oct 16, 2018 17:42 |
Hey now if you were a real dickhead you'd just have been told to get a gopro, gotta be cruel to be kind.
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 18:07 |
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The brake fluid in my bike looked fine, it was, uh, not, it had something growing in it.
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 19:23 |
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Fifty Three posted:I thought this was a safe space t It's a SAFETY space.
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 19:49 |
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put a lil' weld on the countershaft sprocket to the countershaft nut cause I didn't know about the hosed up splines when I bought the 950. got tired of babysitting the sprocket every few weeks.
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 20:08 |
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Elviscat posted:The brake fluid in my bike looked fine, it was, uh, not, it had something growing in it. I guess your bike really brakes the mold
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# ? Oct 16, 2018 22:39 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:It's a SAFETY space. Phy posted:I guess your bike really
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# ? Oct 17, 2018 00:03 |
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Fifty Three posted:S, s, s, s. I want to rewrite the lyrics of the safety dance to be about rider safety, but I'm afraid that if I did that I'd have to kick my own rear end.
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# ? Oct 17, 2018 00:31 |
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cursedshitbox posted:put a lil' weld on the countershaft sprocket to the countershaft nut cause I didn't know about the hosed up splines when I bought the 950. got tired of babysitting the sprocket every few weeks. Somebody else was doing this recently. Supradog?
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# ? Oct 17, 2018 00:42 |
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Some enormous dickhead used an airtool or something to tighten the drain bolt on my honda cub clone... I went to do an oil change about a week ago and it required a tremendous amount of force to get it to turn... and then instead of getting easier it was hard to turn for several rotations, uh oh. I had crossed the threads and had to use a screw driver to pry the bolt away from the engine... So I got a helicoil and cut some new threads. Toward the end, i felt it grinding on something as it bottomed out... weird. Then I go to change the oil screen (it doesn't have a filter, just a mesh screen)... I look at the instructions, oh its right over the bolt, uh oh. The thread cutter had bottomed out on the screen and tore a small hole in it. I wouldn't have been worried except I had just created a ton of metal shavings right into bottom of the engine. I had coated the thread cutter and hole in grease so at least most of it was sticking together and easy to scoop out, but still... I poured a couple of liters of oil in to let it flush out the shavings, and sprayed in pb blaster around to try and knock out any shavings hiding in a corner. I couldn't find a replacement screen online (the sym symba has been discontinued), so I just used some of my wife's crafting wire to kinda sew the hole shut... Re-installed it and it seems to be running fine. The better solution would have been to leave the siezed bolt in place and just drain the oil by removing the screen.
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# ? Oct 31, 2018 02:21 |
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Slavvy posted:I have a Taiwanese 2t 50cc scooter I bought for eighty bucks, it sat motionless outdoors for a year before I got it so the owner was convinced it was a total loss. This is my favorite thing. Currently I'm the PO because I did 10 miles of offroad 2 up accidentally and I still haven't loving cleaned off the chain of the dirt. Oh well.
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# ? Oct 31, 2018 03:24 |
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When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white.
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 00:41 |
babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. You piece of poo poo
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 01:19 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. gently caress you man.
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 02:35 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. Get absolutely hosed
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 05:09 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. may your circuits forever short, your fuses always blow and your batteries always die
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 05:17 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. I can't even hate on this, it's amazing
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 07:21 |
Seriously though, I'm not a wiring sperg but sheer cuntyness aside that drives me crazy just cause of how easy and cheap it is to do a better job. Just get a hold of an old wiring harness from pretty much anything japanese, strip it and you've got 90% of the colours and gauges you'll ever need for minor repairs on pretty much anything that isn't a harley. I've accrued a few wiring harnesses over the years one way or another (efi hyosungs bursting into flames are a good source of unusual colour combinations). When I've got nothing to do I strip them, pull each colour wire out one by one, clean them with spirits and bundle them up for future use. I've got a box full of wires now, they work better than store-bought stuff cause they 100% match the factory colours and construction on most bikes. I wouldn't use them to make a loom from scratch (spoiler: have done so several times but for lovely low-level race bikes and scooters so who gives a poo poo) but for random repairs it works great. I realise you can get this stuff brand new online but gently caress waiting several weeks when I've got a meter of identical wire right there on the shelf.
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# ? Nov 19, 2018 21:06 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. Triggered Extremely accurate username/post combo
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# ? Nov 20, 2018 15:01 |
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Jokes on you, he’s thoroughly labeled each wire with color coded shrink wrap with clearly printed purpose and polarity.
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# ? Nov 20, 2018 15:52 |
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builds character posted:Jokes on you, he’s thoroughly labeled each wire with color coded shrink wrap with clearly printed purpose and polarity. I have a heat-shrink wire label printer that I use. It's just that all the wires themselves are white. The ends on both sides of a connector have labels.
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# ? Nov 21, 2018 04:03 |
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Do you print the exact phrase used in the original service manual to describe the component connection though? You'd be committing some serious faux pases there if you ended up with a wire going to an auto choke that didn't say "starter" or a sensor in the airbox where the wire didn't say "intake air silencer"
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# ? Nov 21, 2018 16:08 |
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# ? May 1, 2024 19:52 |
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I was adding frame sliders that needed the fairing taken off. I now have a superfluous fairing screw... On the last bike, I didn't have a torque wrench, so I just guessed when it was tight enough; and the engine never fell out when I dropped it those 4 times so I reckon I must have got it right (the wrench set I was using are like 6 inches long at the longest, so I had to hit it with a mallet to get it tight) TheMaskedUgly fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Nov 26, 2018 |
# ? Nov 26, 2018 13:09 |