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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

M42 posted:

I torque axles by feel
Mods?

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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
I didn't even replace parts in the top end when I rebuilt the motor on a bike to ride in the Cannonball

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Do you print the exact phrase used in the original service manual to describe the component connection though? You'd be committing some serious faux pases there if you ended up with a wire going to an auto choke that didn't say "starter" or a sensor in the airbox where the wire didn't say "intake air silencer"

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Rode my Ducati an hour to get it home with no rear axle nut. Had to stop 5 or 6 times to kick the axle back in cause it was sliding out.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Many Ducati axles are of a very poor design. This one has nuts on both ends and they are very shallow nuts with no cotter pins or friction locking devices of any kind. One of the tricks of these nuts, which I learned the hard way, is the flange has to be totally dry even though the threads should be lubricated. If the flange is lubricated, the nut disappears while riding.

And by the way if you don't lubricate the flange the nut sometimes grabs it while torquing down and twists and bends the adjuster plate which is made of soft thin metal. I got aftermarket billet adjuster plates for mine shortly after that.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Jan 19, 2019

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

Sagebrush posted:

If the axle design is really that idiotic it seems like it would be reasonable to switch to a castellated nut and drill a hole for a cotter pin, or to safety wire it
You'd have to fabricate a longer axle. It's literally so short that no castellated nut would fit on it. The non-castellated ones on it stock are abnormally thin already.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Good shot of the original and aftermarket adjuster plates there too.

As long as the threads are all in good shape it's not hard to torque down, the friction of the bearings/swingarm generally hold it still enough to get it tight. Although I usually do torque both sides back and forth to keep it centered. If the threads are not all great, it's another story. I spent a while with a thread file on mine some time early in my ownership to try and fix that.

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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
These are probably fine. I've used cheap Harbor Freight torque wrenches many times and they do match up with expensive ones.

Important factor: don't use one of those clicker torque wrenches for torque settings that are less than like 20% of their max. Even if it has numbers printed on it for like 10Nm or something, it'll be inaccurate, and worse it'll give you a very different click sensation which you might not even feel. I've seen that throw people off and end up overtorquing.

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