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Most bike's I've owned, the interval between dead cold engine start and WOT is on average about five minutes, sometimes less on the really weedy small stuff.
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Jul 24, 2018 01:44
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An hf204 is identical to a z436 IIIRC, there's no harm in it.
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Aug 20, 2018 20:14
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I filled my shock with air instead of nitrogen because my usual guy broke his gauge and I can't be hosed driving half an hour and paying twenty bucks.
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Oct 8, 2018 21:59
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I have a Taiwanese 2t 50cc scooter I bought for eighty bucks, it sat motionless outdoors for a year before I got it so the owner was convinced it was a total loss. The petrol cap doesn't quite keep rain out of the fuel tank (they all do this, if you have a cheap scooter buy a bike cover) so the carb and tank were all packed with sediment. I cleaned out the carb, threw in a fuel filter and flushed the tank half-assedly to get it going. It runs very well and is exceptionally fast for what it is, has chunky tyres that lean like a bike and a good handling balance, so I enjoy riding it and use it nearly every day to visit local suppliers and the corner shop. Problem is, there's loads of mud hiding in the nooks of the tank so every morning without fail the carb has some water in it. It'll start and idle (pilot jet is above the water line, auto choke functions) but wont accept any throttle (main jet submerged). I cbf draining the carb with a screwdriver every day, especially when the drain screw is all chewed out and rusty. Correct solution: take the tank out, either find a way to clean out all the mud or just get a replacement. My solutions: As soon as it starts up, there's a brief window when you can open the throttle and run it up to fairly high revs and keep it there before water starts making it through the carb. You hear it stop firing when it starts to suck in the water, but if you've brought the revs up enough it clears the water and starts firing again before it can fall all the way to idle and stall; the flywheel effect of the cvt and wheel spinning stop the engine from stalling instantly. If the above doesn't work (because it's rained heavily the night before or I haven't run the bike for a week), I leave it idling and just lay it down on its side for a few seconds until the water spills out of the carb vent and it's good to go. I've been doing this for about six months now.
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Oct 14, 2018 20:47
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Fifty Three posted:My chain needs tightened and I've had a socket for the axle nut in my Amazon shopping cart for three months. I'd have guessed you're the average gn250 owner but you said fairings so Ninja 250?
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Oct 15, 2018 23:43
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Hey now if you were a real dickhead you'd just have been told to get a gopro, gotta be cruel to be kind.
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Oct 16, 2018 18:07
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:When I fix wires, I replace all the wires with whatever I have lying around. Since I work in aviation, this is usually M22759/16 unadorned white wire. So yeah, all the wires might be factory-colored in the middle of the harness, but the last foot or two after the environmental splice is white. You piece of poo poo
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Nov 19, 2018 01:19
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Seriously though, I'm not a wiring sperg but sheer cuntyness aside that drives me crazy just cause of how easy and cheap it is to do a better job. Just get a hold of an old wiring harness from pretty much anything japanese, strip it and you've got 90% of the colours and gauges you'll ever need for minor repairs on pretty much anything that isn't a harley. I've accrued a few wiring harnesses over the years one way or another (efi hyosungs bursting into flames are a good source of unusual colour combinations). When I've got nothing to do I strip them, pull each colour wire out one by one, clean them with spirits and bundle them up for future use. I've got a box full of wires now, they work better than store-bought stuff cause they 100% match the factory colours and construction on most bikes. I wouldn't use them to make a loom from scratch (spoiler: have done so several times but for lovely low-level race bikes and scooters so who gives a poo poo) but for random repairs it works great. I realise you can get this stuff brand new online but gently caress waiting several weeks when I've got a meter of identical wire right there on the shelf.
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Nov 19, 2018 21:06
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 I've always been weary of those idiotic symmetrical axles but I didn't know it was THAT bad. Here I was thinking I was being needlessly anal when assembling and it turns out I need to be even more anal.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:00
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Yeah it's like a 6mm wide nut and about 2-3 threads stick out past it. They could've easily made it a locking nut of some kind but didn't for  reasons.You tighten it by holding the other end with a spanner like normal, just need to get the alignment fairly centered before you do it up.
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Jan 20, 2019 05:19
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In case anyone's wondering what this actually looks like: And fitted: 
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Jan 20, 2019 05:49
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Further compounded by the total lack of locking mechanism for the adjuster bolts, I found out the hard way you have to set the chain tension 90%, *mostly* tighten the axle nut, then do the last little bit with the tensioner bolts working against the axle friction and THEN nip up the axle nut. If you try to torque the axle then nip up the adjusters they inevitably vibrate themselves out.
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Jan 20, 2019 19:01
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Whoops wrong thread.
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Apr 11, 2019 05:47
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Right I get it, you didn't want to waste money stripping one or two bolts many years ago, as a result are now completely tone-deaf as to how tight anything is, and spending more money fixing something you could've prevented using judgement. No sympathy 
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Dec 13, 2019 00:37
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Why not just turn it until it's flush, then tighten until you feel resistance which is maybe another 0.5-1.0 turns, then another couple of degrees to nip it up? The benefit to this technique is that it stops you spending money and also teaches you how to do things up quickly so you don't take three days to swap a wheel, flipping through a manual the whole time. That being said torque wrenches are a good thing to have and that one is fine. There's like four or five things on a bike you actually need a torque wrench for and nobody besides hapless hobbyists and dire old men uses them on everything. A friend builds the majority of post classic race engines used in the north island, when I asked him for advice on torquing up air cooled Ducati head studs, a super critical item I've never not torqued, he told me he's always just done them by hand and never had any problems. Your muscles and nerves are accurate to within a few newtons, that's finer than the margin of error on a 3/8 wrench, the only difference between you and the torque wrench is practice. I'm not saying do your head studs by hand, I'm just saying flapping about every little screw is just making things ten times harder, there's a time and a place and it isn't all the time everywhere. What made you replace the drain screw? Old one hosed?
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Dec 13, 2019 20:23
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If it comes out super sludgy, take off the clutch cover and clean out the little mesh screen that serves as the oil filter 
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Dec 13, 2019 20:54
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I did an event yesterday where there were maybe 300 bikes present, I personally checked over a good 40 and about half of them looked exactly like that.
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Mar 1, 2020 02:07
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Dagen H posted:*strips out M6 thread* I have reported you to the hague, expect a visit from a UN prosecutor.
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Oct 9, 2020 18:38
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:This sounds like Suzuki Things Ls650's, in addition to being maddeningly hard to work on in myriad other ways, have m9x1.25 head nut threads, perfect for when PO's wreck the nut threads attempting to fix the usual ailments without taking the engine out. I did one the expensive way and then did another, for the guy's neighbor. Yes I cut an M8 thread onto a rolled m9 stack stud, am probably going to hell but he asked for fast and cheap.
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Oct 10, 2020 06:20
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Yeah they have them in loads of other places like the airbox and intake trumpets which are often thread locked, for example, or the handlebar switchgear.
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Oct 10, 2020 07:10
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I've had my vessel impact JIS philips for over a decade now, still works perfectly on the mangiest carb screws.
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Oct 10, 2020 07:20
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Renaissance Robot posted:PO actually did two! The flap did it's job perfectly, bending over two won't make it somehow twice as locky. I've seen loads of bikes that rode fine where the sprocket was held on by the lock washer alone. The issue is you didn't tighten the nut enough in the first place, it should never come loose lock washer or not.
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Dec 5, 2020 19:35
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Renaissance Robot posted:Wrench was set to 128Nm, struggled to make it click (though it did) even giving it everything I had with both arms. Don't really know how much harder I can tighten it! Try wire brushing the threads so they're perfectly clean, then use blue loctite. This is the right thread to admit this: if the bike has one huge sprocket nut like yours, I usually just give it a few dakadakas with the rattle gun - there's almost no risk of stripping the threads (a lovely old rattle gun helps here) and it's guaranteed never to come off.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:34
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Renaissance Robot posted:Don't they design reserve tanks to always have about 50 miles in them? Way, way too much credit here. Nobody 'designed' anything, as far as inside of the tank goes. Someone somewhere designed the fuel tap, with reserve about 3 inches below on, at some point in the eighties. You go ahead and 'design' me three holes in the bottom stamping for it to bolt through, that's a good boy, back to your desk renesa-kun.
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Dec 14, 2020 18:09
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Just last weekend I found out an nc21 vfr400 has an 18L tank, while a cb1000r has what appeared to be 16L, and that translates to roughly half the range of the 400. Anyways you can say 'make bigger tank plz' but there are far more people screeching about appearance and weight so you'll always lose that tugowar unless you're looking at ADV's or tourers (but I repeat myself). A fuel gauge/low light is a reasonable compromise but they're one size fits all just like fuel taps and you're never the lucky one with the bike it was actually designed for so you still have to learn your general range.
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Dec 14, 2020 19:00
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The tank is also the ECU holder so there's that as well.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:49
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Razzled posted:this just puts me further in the "cush drive doesnt do poo poo" camp. Please put a solid hub wheel on it and test your theory for science.
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Feb 7, 2021 18:50
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Can confirm the vfr750 also has green rubber and it, too, disintegrates.
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Feb 8, 2021 02:46
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MomJeans420 posted:Somehow the cush drives on my meth gixxer appeared to be in fine shape, and I don't understand how that's possible. Maybe a shop putting on new tires convinced a PO it was absolutely necessary as I can't imagine they can last 20 years. They absolutely can and do last decades if you have smooth four cylinder power married to no talent.
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Jun 3, 2021 21:24
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 18:40 |
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MomJeans420 posted:That's surprising to hear but I'll take it, I thought time alone would degrade the rubber It kind of does but in my experience it just degrades into a solid brick so the bike doesn't really notice the difference. The ones that really gently caress out seem to be because of salt water exposure, river crossings, just general dirt bike poo poo, or the bikes that haven't ridden in literal decades so it crumbles on the first ride. Also older bikes are chonky with generous proportions on everything. Nowadays everything has to be made as lean and light as possible to make space for bullshit you don't need, the cush drive is one thing that seems to be getting smaller and skinnier with each generation.
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Jun 3, 2021 22:55
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