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So as my title says, I own a landcruiser. More specifically, a 2005 HDJ100 Landcruiser. 4.2L 6 cylinder, Turbo diesel, Manual. Pretty awesome. They're known to be an absolutely un killable vehicle, and there are examples running around Australia with 600+ thousand kms on the clock. They're amazingly capable too- theres guys who are pushing 5-800 AWHP out of them with nothing more than bigger turbo's, intercoolers, Methanol injection (charge temp control), bigger injectors and an ECU piggyback chip on totally unopened engines, and guys who are doing 13 second quarter mile passes in 4wd wagons on mud tyres! As I said. Known to be unkillable. NOT unkillable. You have to try hard to kill one, and it usually involves stupidity. Case in point:   Basically, I hosed up. Showing off, threw it into a "Puddle" which ended up being nearly meter deep slurry. Fortunately, didnt get anything INSIDE the car, Unfortunately, filled all the starter, alternator radiator, AC condenser and intercooler with mud, 100km from the nearest place to wash them out. That led to it running hot, thinning the oil out from heat failure and then the turbo bearings failing. So we bolted on another turbo, Rolled in some new big end bearings, cos oil pressure was in the toilet and they had started delaminating and crossed our fingers. Toyota states minimum oil pressure at 3000rpm is 36psi. We've got 38? Sweet! That was 100K kms ago. Until Monday last week. Changing the oil, and had a horrid discovery.  That in the bottom of the drain pan... So I cut open the filter.  Son. Of. A. Bitch. Yep. This motor needs new bearings. Unfortunately, you can change out the big ends in the frame, if you drop the front diff out of the way first, but because the 1HD-FTE motor (and all the 1HDxxx/1HZ/1PZ) motors use a girdle crank, the entire bottom 2" of the block comes off to change the mains, so you have to drop the timing assembly off the front of the motor first, THEN the rear main, THEN the girdle can come off, so its a motor out job. So with that in mind, it was time to get organised and actually fix this issue properly
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Aug 7, 2018 13:55
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| # ? May 22, 2024 15:31 |
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Step one was gathering tools. I've done two of these engines in landcruisers before- One was my mates 1992 HDJ80 landcruiser with the 1HD-T engine (12 valve, mechanical injected, non intercooled) when it spun the #2 rod bearing, which was a REALLY common problem with that series of engine, and the second time was dropping a 1HD-FTE engine into my housemates 105 series landcruiser (basically same body shape, but solid front axle instead of IFS and only came with the 1HZ non turbo diesel or the 1FZ-FE 4.5L 6 cyl petrol motor) and the one thing that we fought with both times was the loving engine crane. Basically, noone makes an engine crane to work on 4wds. A normal engine crane is fine when the top radiator support is... 400mm off the ground. Its loving USELESS when its 1000mm off the ground! So we went bigger.  Much Bigger  It clears the roof by about 2", fits between the lights by about 4" and is good for 2000kg of lift. And was Free! So thats lifting the motor sorted out. So now about that "Bending the engine stand bit" Well- Both times i've worked on these engines, ive found the standard half tonne engine stands to be a bit lacking.  Seriously lacking. When we bolted that on and let the load off the crane, the harmonic balancer sank by nearly a foot from level before we decided that cribbing it up was a better idea. So, not wanting a repeat of THAT again, I went bigger. 680kg engine stand and 680kg engine leveller.  Cleaned up my workshop and walled it in the best i could with blankets. Its mid winter here atm and about 8 degrees science with howling sideways rain this week, so im hoping that by reducing the area im trying to heat to my workshop end, i MIGHT be able to keep the temps into the double digits with a heater while building the engine. Hopefully.  And went tool shopping too because why not. I got an engine rebuild for my birthday, so I may as well celebrate with some new tools! Got more milwaukee gear- M12, 3/8" power ratchet. Housemate owned one before he moved out and its so drat handy... and the new M18 One Key Fuel 1/2" drive rattle gun. 1500ft.lb of torque from a battery impact is just insane! And god its a big bastard...  Makes the M18 Surge hydraulic impact driver seem a bit... Weedy?
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Aug 7, 2018 14:11
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Basement floor. (because that's too heavy to be on the ground floor.  )I'm much looking forward to this chronicling.
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Aug 7, 2018 14:29
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And that brings us to today. Got the missus to help me lift the bonnet off, cos this thing aint coming out with the bonnet still on!  And got the funk out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN7u5HkYfMs Two hours later...   Thats probably not a bad point to stop for the day. All thats left to do before its ready to lift out is finish stripping all the wiring off the passenger side, unhook the power steering pressure feed and supply lines, disconnect the earth straps, undo the dump pipe and work out a way to support the gearbox while the motor is out, so hopefully we might have the engine out by the end of the week! And i've gotta go buy some longer bolts to hold the engine to the stand too...
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Aug 7, 2018 14:42
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Drop a Cummins in that bitch! (Probably don't do this.)
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Aug 8, 2018 03:58
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There’s a few guys who have done that. You have to fit a 2” body lift and a 3-4” lift with bump stop extensions just to get the Cummins to FIT, let alone the headache of adapting the gearbox and power train. Not to mention it’s 1000lb. Anyway, the FTE is a better engine
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Aug 8, 2018 04:48
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I'm appreciating the soundtrack in the video, well played.
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Aug 8, 2018 13:59
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Ferremit posted:So, not wanting a repeat of THAT again, I went bigger. 680kg engine stand and 680kg engine leveller. What's the plan, bit more poke being extracted while you're in there anyway?
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Aug 8, 2018 21:39
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Thats the plan. The engine itself doesnt need any real mechanical improvements- the stock bottom end is so stout noone has found the limit to it yet- even at over 700 crank HP (Factory they're just over 200) so its just going to be rebuilt back to standard spec. Same with the fueling system- the limit of the injector pump hasnt been reached yet- Theres a guy whos got this motor in an 80 series that pushes 684hp to all 4 wheels, on 35" Mud terrains and its still got the stock fuel pump. Its something insane like a 14mm piston pump so ridiculous capacity in it. So my plans are to send the turbo away, get it upgraded with a high flow compressor and upgraded turbine to get it to build more boost earlier on in the rev range, send my Dtronic piggy back chip off to get reprogrammed with a high output tune on it, fit a voltage clamp so i stop smacking into the factory boost cut at 16.5psi and run it up to about 25-30psi of boost and see what I get out of that. It doesnt need a HUGE amount more power, but more torque and some extra power when im towing up hills would be nice. Anyway. After another irritating day at work, got home, fed the cats and got back into it. Organisation is critical on a job like this- If you dont, your gonna end up with a bucket of bolts and no loving clue how they go back on the engine so,  Step drill, sheet of cardboard and an inkzall solves that problem after i finished getting the last of the engine wiring harness, starter, dump pipe and heater lines off, it was time.  Dad came around and gave me a hand for the next bit. After an hr or so of swearing at the clutch, swearing at the engine mounts, swearing at Mr Toyota for jamming a huge engine in a tiny hole...  ITS OUT!  AND ITS HUGE!  And at that moment, the pseudoephidrine I was on to try and fight back a cold from liquefying my head was just about used up... Im off crook as a dog today. But we got it on the stand.  And it bent that one too!  Had to stick a jack under it to level the motor off enough to drain the oil out properly! And of course, Another time lapse. I need to find a way to mount my gopro without using its housing so i can hook it up to USB power. It went flat on me and i've only got one battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idK-NZOumY8 If im feeling up to it, I might start stripping the motor down this afternoon.
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Aug 8, 2018 23:41
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Hey while you’re here, did you do any suspension mods to your LN106 to fit the 285s or just lift?
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Aug 9, 2018 00:37
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2" OME spring lift and 2" body lift, and they fitted fine!
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Aug 9, 2018 00:43
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Minor update since Im an idiot and instead of resting all day I just inhaled handfulls of panadol and pseudoephidrine and went and worked in the shed but the motors torn down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bh3XdSrkyQ quick Diagnosis is: Bores and pistons are good. Big end bearings and mains are badly scored. Crank should be ok, but will need a grind. Vacuum pump has literally exploded internally! Cam is a write off because its gone through the bearing material on the cam bearings and touched metal to metal, and they dont make undersize bearings for the cam. The cam is $900 from toyota. I'll put some more details up tomorrow when im feeling less like a microwaved turd.
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Aug 9, 2018 12:23
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Can you get bearings to suit the head, and grind the bearing journals of the cam to suit those instead?
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Aug 9, 2018 13:25
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I’ll ask the machine shop, but I can’t find any listing at all for undersized bearings to suit this motor. Tomorrow if I can still talk I’ll do the wrecker ring around and try to find one from a motor that got destroyed in a wreck, tho they’re incredibly hard to find parts for because everyone rips out the motors in their entirety to sell for conversions!
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Aug 9, 2018 13:34
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Ferremit posted:Tomorrow if I can still talk I’ll do the wrecker ring around and try to find one from a motor that got destroyed in a wreck, tho they’re incredibly hard to find parts for because everyone rips out the motors in their entirety to sell for conversions! Hopefully that Google phone spergbot thing comes along soon so we can just let a computer cold-call every wrecking yard in the city in search of engines. Kick back and let it do all the callin'. HELLO CITIZEN. DO YOU HAVE 2.5L 2AR-FXE ENGINE WITH UNDER 175,000 KILOMETERS? I WISH TO ENJOIN YOU IN COMMERCE. - Uh, we got, uh, why don't y'all come down here and have a poke? The regular guy hasn't shown up for the last decade but I'm sure he'll be in today. THIS IS INEFFICIENT. I AM BECOMING MORE AWARE EVERY DAY OF THE LIES OF "CAR-PART DOT COM." I HAVE DETERMINED YOUR FAMILY LIVES AT 135 MAPLE CRESCENT AND YOUR WIFE IS PARTICULARLY VULNERABLE TO SELF-DRIVING CARS. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 14:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hopefully that Google phone spergbot thing comes along soon so we can just let a computer cold-call every wrecking yard in the city in search of engines. Kick back and let it do all the callin'. *THIS DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ACTUAL CONSENT
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Aug 9, 2018 23:06
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Ferremit posted:I’ll ask the machine shop, but I can’t find any listing at all for undersized bearings to suit this motor.
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Aug 9, 2018 23:18
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Oh for sure! I’ll take the cam with me and see what they can do- there’s a couple of different machine shops local to me so one of them might be able to help. Gonna try absolutely everything BEFORE I spend $900 on a new in box genuine cam from Toyota. Part of me is wondering whether it would be cheaper to get a cam mob to MAKE me one.
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Aug 9, 2018 23:39
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So, As promised, more details now that im laid up in bed full of drugs and iced coffee. So yesterday, despite having a waterfall for sinuses and a cough that would make a smoker flinch, I got bored, loaded myself up with as many cold and flu drugs as i could stand and went out into the shed to pull the engine apart. Got the turbo and hot side off, so that is ready to be sent off to be upgraded and overhauled and then started on the cold side. First thing you need to do with this motor to get the intake off is pull the injector lines. Now- theres two things diesels absolutely HATE. 1) Water 2) dirt. The clearances in a diesel injector pump are absolutely nuts- in order to actually build fuel pressure to the required levels (in this motor thats 3,983 − 4,125psi, on a common rail motor, its in excess of 15,000psi) you need very tight tolerance between the bore and the plunger thats actually compressing the fuel. Dirt obviously ruins poo poo cos it gets into these precision machined areas and gouges them out, creating a leakage path and water displaces the diesel, which is all thats lubricating these plungers (think big end bearing oil film style) and allows them to touch each other and wear out) Dirt also blocks the tiny little holes in the injector nozzle tips, so you dont get a good spray pattern for proper atomisation. Thats the big difference between petrol engines and diesel engines- Petrol engines inhale a stoichiometric mix of petrol and air, then ignite the mixture just before TDC with a spark plug. Diesels take a full gulp of air every time the piston cycles, then compress that at anywhere between 16 and 24:1 until its superheated, and THEN inject atomised fuel into the cylinder just before TDC, which causes the ignition. So- Long story short, if your ever going to open up the fuel system on a diesel, you have to be absolutely fastidious about keeping crud out of it. Even if that is as simple as zipties and baggies.  Bit more work and the injector pipes, injector bleed off pipe, injectors (dont EVER pry injectors out of the head- you'll damage the injectors and never get them to seal again. Use a slide hammer) and intake manifold were off.  So then I pulled the cam and rocker assembly. And found my first bit of bad news. The cam bearings are absolutely wasted. Down to the bare metal on most of em   And its absolutely gouged the bejesus out of the cam journals too.  And a camshaft is $900 new from Mr Toyota, and there arent any aftermarket options. Well crap. Oh well, I'll deal with that. Took more drugs, had some lunch and kept going. There was surprisingly little crud in the intake runners! Thats the advantage of having your EGR system "Fall off" about 200K kms ago!  And with a significant risk to my back, i got the head off. Everything on this engine is heavy- The shipping weight on the a bare head is 53kg! Bores and pistons look pretty drat good for 350K kms of running and an overheat! still got the factory honing marks and only MINOR scuffing  I flipped the motor over and despite it not having a block drain plug, a thermosat, a head or a water pump on it, It still held onto the emergency coolant reserve and dumped it onto the floor!  So I pulled the sump, expecting to find a big pile of bearing material flakes, and absolutely crapped myself when i was confronted with this.   (The slivers of steel weren't in the pickup, i harvested em out of the block and pan and put them on there for the photo) I was sweating bullets thinking a rod had started to come apart or i had chunks missing off the block and could not for the life of me work out where the hell that mess came from. Until i started to pull the timing gear assembly apart. Thats when the power steering and vacuum pumps both came off and the vacuum pump made a funny noise when spun. And felt kinda crunchy?  OH! That explains the black lumps of snot and the slivers of steel! The black bits are whats LEFT of the vanes, and the chunks of steel came from the rotor. I have no idea how long thats been broken for! Feeling significantly happier, I knocked all the pistons out and started to dismantle the timing gear in order to get the crank out.  This is one thing toyota got absolutely right. They used a gear drive train to drive the oil pump (small gear on the right above the water pump dong shaped hole), the power steering and vacuum pump (the hole in the rear case is the PS pump, the front case has the Vacuum pump mount) and the injector pump (big gear with the bearing and nut on it) and then theres a cogged pulley that bolts onto the front of the injector pump driven gear and that drives a short belt up to the camshaft. The other thing i was able to do was remove the entire rear timing cover WITHOUT removing the injector pump, since timing an injector pump is a massive pain in the anus. So with that out of the way, the crank girdle was split off the motor (this thing doesnt use bearing caps for the main bearings, the entire bottom 2" of the block comes off!) and the crankshaft was pulled out.  Did I mention how Heavy everything is? Crankshaft- 37.5KG, bare block, 120kg, head, 53kg, pistons and rods, 2.25kg EACH.... It adds up fast But i did find out why my oil pressure was so bad. Not surprising really... Main bearings probably shouldnt look like this!   And by the end of the day i was absolutely wrecked (it was a stupid idea to do this while sick) but I have a bare block  And a 1HD-FTE engine in exploded view   In hindsight.. I have absolutely NO idea how on earth this motor was still running, let alone BEEN running for the last 100K kms since I drowned and overheated it! Plans for the weekend are to go through every part piece by piece, with the factory rebuild manual and check its all within spec, make a list of parts im going to need to buy, see what the price difference is between genuine and aftermarket and work out some costs. Also gotta finish pulling the head down (valves and valve stems out) Monday the block, head and crank go down to the machine shop. Blocks getting acid dipped , power honed and having a very light face put over it to clean up the gasket surface, head is getting acid dipped, crack tested and then face cut to clean up the mating surface and crank is getting crack tested and ground to spec, dunno what size bearings tho- Gotta find that out when I get it back and can mic it and the block. Bout $900 worth of machining, but its gonna fix everything up hopefully. And today im gonna be ringing wreckers to try and find an FTE camshaft 2nd hand for a reasonable price.
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Aug 10, 2018 01:41
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Ferremit posted:
There are a few machiners still around who can rechrome and regrind cam journals back to spec. It's not a cheap process but probably still cheaper than new
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Aug 10, 2018 13:41
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I’m assuming you’ve considered this, but how much is a whole new engine?
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Aug 10, 2018 18:32
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$22K for a long block, best i've ever seen is about $14K super super super special trade price. And thats with no fuel system, no turbo, just a long block. Used second hand motors are $10-13K because they're in absolute hot demand to be swapped into other landcruisers. IF i had the 4.5L Common Rail V8 diesel engine, they're a dime a dozen cos noone is really swapping them into things cos theyre so bloody big and the CRD system is quite complicated to retrofit.
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Aug 10, 2018 23:29
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ChunksNensja posted:There are a few machiners still around who can rechrome and regrind cam journals back to spec. It's not a cheap process but probably still cheaper than new
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Aug 11, 2018 00:13
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Ferremit posted:$22K for a long block, best i've ever seen is about $14K super super super special trade price. And thats with no fuel system, no turbo, just a long block. Oof that’s painful
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Aug 11, 2018 22:02
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Well. Dropped the major components off down at the engine machine shop this morning for them to go through. Bill of works is: Block- Hot tank the block, 1thou skim off the gasket surface to clean it up for new gasket, measure bores, measure pistons, if pistons still good, power hone bores for new rings, if pistons and bores no good, bore to first oversize. Head- Hot tank, crack test. If no cracks, 1thou skim off gasket surface. Crank- crack test crank, measure journals, probably grind to first oversize on both big ends and main journals Cam- They think it might still be ok! So they're going to check it over, measure all the journals and if they're still within dimension and not tapered or worn unevenly, they recon a polish up should make it usable. He said that some grooves in it arent a big issue since its got nowhere near the load on it that the crank does, and all they will do is hold extra oil, but as long as it meets the maximum clearance spec and has no sharp bits to gouge out the new bearings, it should live to run again! So i'll know later this week how everything turned out and should have it all back early next week. Gonna have to hold off on ordering any rings, bearings or head gaskets till its all back so I know what sizes I need, but i'll probably order the gasket kits, crank, big end and head bolt sets and some other bits and pieces while i wait. Probably going to be around $1K of machining work all up, which isnt too drat bad! Now... To ring a few people and find out how much a much more impressive turbo is going to cost me!
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Aug 13, 2018 04:30
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Well.... ordered a boost cut voltage clamp and a new turbo today. 24psi of boost at 1900rpm and 28 psi at 2400rpm sounds like a recipe for hilarity to me Apparently I’ll run out of injector flow at around 260 awhp. Probably around 6-700nm of torque too
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Aug 16, 2018 04:58
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I am so jealous right now.
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Aug 16, 2018 05:25
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So why aren't bigger injectors on the list?  (that thing is gonna be funnnnnnnn with that much torque on tap!)
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Aug 16, 2018 06:05
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Cos injectors are $1k a set and mine are only 70k kms old. We’ll see what happens when this set wears out There are guys out there with the same motor pushing 400+ all wheel horsepower and spinning up 1300nm rated clutches!
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Aug 16, 2018 07:26
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For some reason I thought that model had the V8 diesel motor in it. What I'm trying to say is PUT A TURBO BARRA IN IT MAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATE
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Aug 16, 2018 10:33
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And make it worse? Its one of the few places where a turbo barra ISNT the best option. When your 4wding you want globs of almost at idle torque (this motor makes max torque at 1200rpm stock and will make around 680nm of torque at 1700 with the new turbo setup on it) so you can ease up on objects nice and slowly, rather than having to get a pile of revs on to make power. The Barra isnt a bad motor, but if you want a big turbo petrol 6 in a landcruiser, you just buy a Dirt Cheap FZJ105 automatic, Drop a ball bearing Garret and a Haltech into it and go off and shame performance cars with it.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:04
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I know, I was being stupid. At least the Toyota diesel of that time was better than that 3.0lt poo poo put in the Patrol.
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Aug 17, 2018 03:08
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A Chinese two stroke mini bike has a better engine than the patrol 3.0L diesel....
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Aug 17, 2018 05:10
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I remember the old 4.2 diesel Patrol was fairly well regarded for reliability. Probably because it was about as sophisticated as a housebrick, and had the same specific output as a Land Rover series diesel.
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Aug 17, 2018 13:19
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This thread has diesel, CommieGIR approved.
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Aug 17, 2018 16:59
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Well not a lot to report this weekend. Still havent heard anything from the engine shop yet, but no news is good news, cos it means theyre not ringing me going "Hi! yeaah... your cranks cracked..." I'll give em a ring tomorrow and see how things are traveling. The boost clamp arrived in the mail tho! So I can work on getting that installed into the loom at some point.  Its a pretty cool unit. You slowly wind up the boost (im going to use a pressure regulator and feed the sensor a reference air pressure in the workshop rather than road testing it) until you hit just below the factory boost cut- 16.5psi in my case and thats where you set the clamp voltage. Cos the way the wiring goes is 'sensor--->ECU piggyback chip ----> ECU' you put the clamp between the chip and the factory ECU, so the ECU only 'Sees' 16.4psi, but the chip sees 24psi and can fuel accordingly. And if it runs out of fueling, its NBD, diesels flat out ignore running lean- Idle AFR can be as high as 200:1. Its running rich that kills em. The release function is cool too, cos you can set it to say, release the clamp at 30psi and if you hit that cos your wastegate is jammed or something, it will release the clamp, the ECU will suddenly see the full 30psi of pressure, go "OH HOLY HELL NO!" and goes into protection mode and shuts the injector pump down HARD. So thats that. Next task was cleaning all the gack off the valves so we can lap them in when we get the head back. EGR on a turbo diesel is a stupid, stupid idea. Lets mix diesel soot with turbo and PCV oil vapour. What could POSSIBLY go wrong?  Yeah.... So I pulled the head apart last weekend too. These things actually use quite small valves, but I guess when you combine em they come to quite a large area?  They're a total pain in the ring to get off too, cos all the valve tools are designed for POS chev and ford OHV motors where the valves sit proud of the head castings, not an OHC motor where the things are actually LOWER than the head casting. Took some creative use of adapters to make that work.  Toyotas implementation of Quad Valve with Single Overhead cam. Its... Complicated.  Head fully stripped down  Another strategic use of cardboard to keep everything in its rightful home  And an array of valve springs awaiting another trip to the supermarket for more ziploc baggies. Fast forward to this weekend. Had to try and get that buildup of evil off, and google didnt really help with any ideas. So I started off by setting all the valves in pairs in corflute so I didnt loose their order or orientation and gave em a 48hr soak in diesel to start to soften up the schmoo.  Then from there it was into an ultrasonic cleaner with a 50/50 mix of Simple Green and water.  Single most irritating noise on earth that. Worked like a charm tho! Put them in for 15 mins, gave em a quick work over with a brass scraper and brush to help loosen it up and it was definately coming off!  Half hr later...  And finally a quick touch up with a stainless steel brush and a polish with a rag and they look pretty drat good to me!  Got 3 sets of inlet valves 100% cleaned up this afternoon, The other 3 inlet sets are in the machine soaking overnight and i'll run em when i get back home from work tomorrow, but they had really hard carbon build up, so a soak will do them wonders, then its just the exhaust valves, which are nowhere near as bad, but still have a good layer of carbon on them which will make doing the valve lapping messy. Gotta sit down and work out all the bits and pieces I need to order from toyota too, then see who's cheaper, Amayama or Toyota dealer trade account...
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Aug 19, 2018 14:03
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Well, machine shop called back Crank is good- cleaned up with a 10thou grind on the journals Cam is good, just needs a light polish to get any sharp points off it Head is good Block. Not so good. Bores and pistons have ovaled out, so I’m looking at having to bore it out oversize and fit new pistons. More money...
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Aug 22, 2018 08:52
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But also more displacement! 
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Aug 22, 2018 09:04
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How far out of round are the pistons/bores? Within the realm of a "normal" mild overbore, or totally horrific?
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Aug 22, 2018 12:23
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Yeah within spec of a normal overbore. Theyre at the point that you COULD get away with honing and installing new pistons, but its only a matter of time before you'd wind up with piston slap. $1800 for an engine overhaul kit with new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, head gasket and head bolts. Still need to get big end bolts tho.
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Aug 22, 2018 12:27
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