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Ferremit posted:EGR on a turbo diesel is a stupid, stupid idea. Lets mix diesel soot with turbo and PCV oil vapour. What could POSSIBLY go wrong? At least DOC/DPF/SCR have reduced the EGR rates from the completely comical 2010 era Navistar levels.
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Aug 22, 2018 14:26
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Ferremit posted:Yeah within spec of a normal overbore. Theyre at the point that you COULD get away with honing and installing new pistons, but its only a matter of time before you'd wind up with piston slap. Yeah, but then it’s good for another 400k
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Aug 24, 2018 11:08
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Even on modern diesels I've seen turbos that have lost more than 15% compressor efficiency due to oil deposits in the compressor stage within 1,000 hours of operation. Somehow this isn't a solved problem yet. Same thing happens when you roll excess coal
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Aug 24, 2018 12:40
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Woo! Machine shop rang back! Cam doesnt bind in the cam tunnel and they can get the head flat again without needing a new casting! Thats $2600 I dont have to spend now! Now I just have to wait for them to finish boring out the block (im gonna go from 4164cc to 4208cc!) and skimming the head and block and I can get the thing back and start putting it together again!  Although this could get silly if Im not careful...
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Aug 28, 2018 14:37
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I see nothing silly there. Three turbos!
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Aug 28, 2018 17:54
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I'd say its silly, hes missing a whole turbo!
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Aug 29, 2018 06:49
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It's an I6, either it's enough turbos or half as many as he needs, four would be just weird.
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Aug 29, 2018 12:15
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Ferremit posted:Woo! Machine shop rang back! Cam doesnt bind in the cam tunnel and they can get the head flat again without needing a new casting! Thats $2600 I dont have to spend now! Please donate your unused Turbos to Ferremit's cause. Give, so he can blow.
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Aug 30, 2018 01:19
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The little CT20 in the foreground came from a 2L-TE 2.4L surf motor. Im pretty sure with 4.2L of 6 cylinder huffing through it it would probably be making close to 10psi of boost at idle! I still dont have my new 24psi at 1900rpm turbo yet either!
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Aug 30, 2018 15:29
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I'm in the turbo hunt as well, since the K24 doesn't boost where I need it.
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Aug 30, 2018 16:06
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I'd send you one, but Im not sure how well the big one off the FTE motor would boost up on a 2.5L. That and posting it to the US would probably cost more than the drat turbo would! They're gonna finalise all the machining next week, and I'll pick everything up the monday after, so then I can start to put everything back together again. Thats gonna be... Fun?
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Aug 31, 2018 08:52
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Well. Motor is home! Unloading was sketchy as gently caress and involved what can only be deemed abuse of a ladder. Machining work ended up being: Acid dip and crack test the head, skim the gasket face by 4 thou Acid dip the block. Machine and hone bores .50mm oversize. Skim the gasket face by 6 thou to clean up Pistons and rods- replace pistons, machine 6 thou off face to keep protrusions in spec. Replace rod bushings and machine to suit new gudgeons. Fit rods to pistons. Cam. Check for happiness in the cam tunnel. polish the journals. Crank. Machine main and big end journals to .25 underside. Rebalance shaft Supply rebuild kit including all bearings, seals, head gasket, head bolts and new pistons. $1850 for the rebuild kit, $1350 for the machine work. $3200 all up Then another $450 at Toyota for parts, a few hundred on other various bits like assembly lube, valve lapping compound and paints. By the time I finished the day filling the car up I’m down $4200 for the day 😳
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Sep 10, 2018 11:14
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And of course- Some Pictures! Picking up a 115kg block by a single head bolt seems a little... ambitious, but if the guy at the machine shop broke it, its his problem not mine!  Ye old hilux certainly rode better with a 115kg block, 37kg crank and 53kg head on a 30kg pallet in the back of it!  Boxes o' bits. The ryco filter is only for running in the engine. I'll drop the oil after 1000km and put on a decent toyota filter after that stage.  Shiny new pistons!  Got the block back out of the ute. That was... Fun? Im not going into full details about how we did it, but it did involve what can only be described as blatant mistreatment of a ladder.  Head and crank. This weeks task after work is to hand lap in 24 valves. I must hate myself.  The machining work is absolutely top notch! Except they dont clean the blocks after they've been in the hone because it keeps them oily so they dont rust. It also means my bores are chock full of metal swarf and grinding material, so im going to have to power wash the ENTIRE block and pop out a fair few gallery plugs to clean inside of them.
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Sep 10, 2018 12:59
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Ferremit posted:The machining work is absolutely top notch! Except they dont clean the blocks after they've been in the hone because it keeps them oily so they dont rust. It also means my bores are chock full of metal swarf and grinding material, so im going to have to power wash the ENTIRE block and pop out a fair few gallery plugs to clean inside of them. That's bullshit. Hot-tank it, dry it, then spray it with rust preventative and bag it. It seems like they stumbled at the last hurdle there... but if the work is solid, you'll be happy.
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Sep 10, 2018 14:20
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They didnt want to bust out all the plugs from the oil gallerys without being told to, cos they've been burnt by doing so and the customer not actually looking and blowing all their oil out the side of the block and cooking the motor. And every minute its not there is a minute im not paying machinists rates for someone to clean a block that I can do with a beer after work!
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Sep 10, 2018 14:27
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Ferremit posted:They didnt want to bust out all the plugs from the oil gallerys without being told to, cos they've been burnt by doing so and the customer not actually looking and blowing all their oil out the side of the block and cooking the motor. I'm kind of surprised they didn't remove the galley plugs, but fair point! I'd be concerned that after the acid dip, there's leftover acid around them that'll eventually loosen them up.
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Sep 10, 2018 18:53
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sharkytm posted:I'm kind of surprised they didn't remove the galley plugs, but fair point! I'd be concerned that after the acid dip, there's leftover acid around them that'll eventually loosen them up. I would too, Except toyota use stainless plugs!
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Sep 10, 2018 21:49
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Ferremit posted:I would too, Except toyota use stainless plugs! Stainless... Not stainfree! Iron block, though, so that might corrode? I dunno. I've never done acid-dipping, only hot-tanking.
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Sep 11, 2018 00:42
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Well- Reassembly has begun! Spent more hours than I would have liked to grinding in valves. Significantly more, since Im apparently the dumbest mofo on earth and couldnt work out which end of the head was what. Took until cyl #5 to work out that i was looking at a water inlet that apparently was at #6... So I had to start again. But they're all done, thats the important bit.  And had to keep track of all the valves and where they go, so out with the paint pen!  As a side note- the head machining is beautiful! Started doing the last checks on the head- the cam bearing clearances are definately what you would call "Loose" and it looks like im going to need a new thrust plate cos its got a big wear mark in it and the end float is juuust out of tolerances, but they're not expensive so I'll just replace the thrust plate and go from there with whatever I get. I've also found that the machine shop has lost the semi circle plug from the back of the head where the cam tunnel was bored out, so I'll have to get another one of those, cos it took them 15 mins to find 3 of the main girdle bolts i sent the motor down with so I could reassemble the block and get it home!  Also- How did they know I was going to be fitting cam bearings at 4pm???? 
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Sep 15, 2018 22:37
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Well today went well. Then Really not well. Spent about an hr and got exceptionally wet pressure washing the block. Theres pretty much zero paint left on it now, so thats a good base to start from in terms of repainting it. Gotta remember to reinstall two of the blanking plugs on the oil gallery too. Its an odd feeling pressure washing cylinder bores, thats for sure!  Got that cleaned up, got all the cosmolene or whatever the hell gack they put on the journals to stop them rusting and got the crankshaft installed!  Crank girdle reinstalled. Considering factory CAST cranks and rods can go from making around 140awhp to nearly 800awhp its probably stronger than a 6 bolt setup. Certainly stronger than most OEM's motors thats for sure!  Rings installed and ready to go Few hours later:  And sat the head on it to protect everything overnight. Almost looks like a motor now.   Aaaaaannnnnddd thats when it went to crap. Posted the video of the pistons going round and round on a facebook page for 1HZ/1HD mods and someone who builds FTE race motors asks the question "They look like 1HD-T pistons?"  Yeah.... That doesnt match up to what the parts manufacturer's website says I should have... https://www.precisionintl.com/Engine.aspx?ID=1712&EID=15405&Stock=PTO1HDFTE60201H So the machine shop has ballsed up. Big time. Supplied the wrong pistons and rings. So tomorrow I get to ring them up and go off at them about it, ESPECIALLY since I've got $115 worth of big end bolts that I'll have to throw into the bin now because they've been torqued to yield. You would have thought that at SOME stage between them pulling off the old pistons, rebushing and grinding the rod ends, machining the new pistons down to match what they took off the head, fitting them to the rods and sticking them back into the box that says 1HD-T LATE on the side of it, they would have noticed? So... Thats a kick in the pant antler. Probably sets the whole project back another week. Still havent got my new turbo either. Its stuck in Melbourne with Toll somewhere.
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Sep 16, 2018 14:02
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So, as it stands, the machine shop didn't clean anything after machining, said your cam was okay even though it's loose, lost the half moon, and supplied the wrong pistons. That right? I'd be pretty mad about this level of half-assery if it was me.
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 16, 2018 14:18
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Ah poo poo mate, that's loving bullshit work by that machine shop 
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Sep 16, 2018 14:50
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Paying for poo poo work is the loving worst.
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Sep 16, 2018 16:35
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That sucks. Sorry to hear it. What’s the shop say?
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Sep 16, 2018 17:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Paying for poo poo work is the loving worst. Seriously, I'd consider the machining to be suspect now and want to get another machine shop's opinion.
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Sep 16, 2018 19:24
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Never trust the professionals, they always always gently caress it up
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Sep 16, 2018 19:44
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Fermented Tinal posted:Seriously, I'd consider the machining to be suspect now and want to get another machine shop's opinion. At least this seems like most of it could be verified with appropriately accurate measurements.
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Sep 16, 2018 20:11
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The cam is loose because the only option to fix the clearances is to replace the cam, and that’s $900 genuine only. Everything else they’ve done is spot on in terms of machine work- head and block are dead nuts flat, crank clearances on the mains and rod journals are dead nuts in the middle of the tolerance range, it’s just they’ve lost a $6 plug and hosed up the pistons. And it wasn’t even them who hosed up on the pistons- the suppliers sent them the wrong set and no one caught it. They’ve accepted that they’re wrong, have priority ordered a new set of pistons and rings and they’ll get the pistons shaved down, rings installed and ready to go, then ring me and I’ll swing past after work and they’ll pull the wrong pistons off the rods, check the gudgeon clearance is correct and fit the CORRECT pistons while I wait. Properly apologetic too. As for the cleaning, I’m glad they didn’t touch it after it came out of the hone- the miscible oil all over it did a bang up job of protecting it, cos as soon as I washed the block the bores started to flash rust, so I was able to keep it protected as long as possible, and it also meant I was able to blast all the loose paint off the block before painting too. And the turbo people have sent me a SECOND turbo with a different courier, so we’ll see if that turns up this time!
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Sep 17, 2018 02:02
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Mistakes happen, if they make it right they still good people. Admit your mistakes it makes life easier. But still sucks man!
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Sep 17, 2018 03:19
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Ferremit posted:
logisticsinAustralia.txt the amount of poo poo my work sends out that goes missing for a while is staggering. 7 boxes went from Melbourne to Tamworth, all marked 1/7, 2/7 etc. They dribbled in to the destination over the course of 3 weeks.
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Sep 17, 2018 13:09
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In a previous life a place I worked got a very angry 8am phone call from an Australian customs officer, because we had sent a box of differential parts from England with 'LSD' written on the paperwork somewhere. Surprisingly it only took a couple of days after that for it o get where it was going, I'm amazed every subsequent person that saw the box didn't pick up on it.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:25
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I was wanting to ask - What did you put on everything after pressure washing to prevent the flash rust?
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Sep 18, 2018 20:56
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Man the bottom end of that engine is amazing. Holy poo poo that girdle. I love when you can depend on the bottom end of an engine and just worry about the fun power-making stuff on top. I haven't built an engine in a while and all those shiny machined parts are giving me the itch.
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Sep 18, 2018 22:30
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cakesmith handyman posted:I was wanting to ask - What did you put on everything after pressure washing to prevent the flash rust? WD40! Just need something with a very light oil to coat the surface and its really convenient if its in an aerosol so you can spread it around easier. The WD40 leaves a very light coating of oil over everything and keeps it squeaky clean from rust, but if you need to get rid of it a wipe with a brake cleaner soaked rag cleans it right off. shy boy from chess club posted:Man the bottom end of that engine is amazing. Holy poo poo that girdle. I love when you can depend on the bottom end of an engine and just worry about the fun power-making stuff on top. I haven't built an engine in a while and all those shiny machined parts are giving me the itch. Its a massive stout bastard of a thing. Heavy as gently caress too. I think the head, block, girdle and crank together sitting on the engine stand are 205kg! Moving on... After the fiasco of last weekend and the piston fuckup, I picked up the pistons today. Originally I thought I was going to get them with the 6 thou machined off em, but when I got there they hadnt got to it yet and were going to do it tomorrow and get them back to me by the end of the day. Had a bit of a hunch that since the shaved 1HD-T ones were a bit low, and the engines are essentially identical in their design, (just the details are different) that they might be alright, so i grabbed em and took them as the came from the manufacturer. Idea was I could throw them into the block, check protrusion heights and if they were all too high up, drop em off tomorrow arvo have them shaved and pick them up monday arvo when I had my day off again. Good thing I did grab em unshaved tho!    That will do very nicely! Theres only a subtle difference between the two piston designs...  And got them all installed and measured. Smallest protrusion was .180mm, highest was .240, so it fits perfectly in the range for the 3 notch head gasket I have. There's three different thicknesses of head gasket available, depending on your piston protrusion.  They're in at the moment with the old big end bolts, but they're only in there to hold the bearing caps together and allow me to do all the measuring. They're not getting used in the motor build when its back in the car, but i'll have to order some more. Still means I can build everything on the motor bar the sump and then just change the big end bolts and glue the sump on before it goes back into the car. But: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doFEFYJRqDU Oh- And something turned up!  Its the ORIGINAL turbo they sent back on the 30TH of AUGUST. Its the 20th of SEPTEMBER. Its gone from MELBOURNE to 40km out of ADELAIDE. Useless pricks. And then, because im friggin cursed or something, the drat turbo has the wrong housing on it.  Thats the housing to suit the 1HD-FT motor, not the FTE motor I have. Sigh. We'll see if the SECOND turbo thats on its way has the right housing on it! If not, hopefully the CRA on the turbo is the same between the 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE versions and they can just send me a new housing in the mail and i'll send back the FT housing with my old turbo as an exchange core.
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Sep 20, 2018 14:19
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Well, Another weekend down, little bit more progress on the engine. Started off by breaking out the masking tape and wire wheels. Got all the loose crap off the exhaust manifold and started to mask up the gasket surfaces.    Cutting tape against cast iron edges is absolutely MURDER on your stanley knife blades. Broke out the shiny maker  And made poo poo shiny and chrome!(ish)  Thought that if i was going to do the exhaust manifold and dump pipe, I should probably do the hot side and the core of the turbo as well, so I proceeded to pull a brand spanking new, $2000 turbo to pieces.   One hell of a compressor wheel for a daily driver Especially compared to the old one  I can see how it makes 24psi at 1900rpm now!  Hot side is really quite different too.  So with the exhaust manifold, turbo and dump pipe all painted up, it was time to prep the block and paint that. First step though, was rebuilding the head, since I wanted to limit how much its handled until its heated up and the paints cured. So first step was reinstall the valves.  What an utterly massive pain in the arse job that is. Because the valves dont sit proud of the head casting your average valve tool doesnt quite work on them properly, so I had to use a spacer ring, which made getting the keepers in an absolute test of my dexterity and patience.  Thats AFTER i turned the end of it over so I got more depth in towards the valve springs! Tool of choice for the tiny little bastards.  Like trying to assemble lego through an arsehole using only a fingertip and a tiny screwdriver  An hr and a half in, Halfway there. 24 valve heads suck.  2hrs, 45 mins. Never. Again.  Once that was together I dropped it on the block with the old head gasket and a couple of old head bolts on it so it wouldn't fall off when I rotated the motor and broke out the blue tape again.   Slow, fiddly, blade wrecking work Experimented with the latest in paper valve cover technology  And promptly put my finger through it and had to patch it  But finally, it was ready for paint! Broke out the spray pack and proceeded to coat the inside of my nose with engine enamel  And it looked great! So I left it to dry. And an hr or so later got quite a surprise when I discovered that the spray pack had been mislabeled and was NOT gloss black  It was MATT black! Which looks cool, but on a motor thats going to see lots of dirt and dust, it would just be an adhesive for dirt and other crap. So off to the auto parts shop again for a can of CONFIRMED gloss black. Another coat of paint on the block and inside of my nose and its had an ebay rebuild!  And thats where the block sits at the moment. I spent some time cleaning up the shed. Somewhere in this mess is around $12,000 worth of engine.  So once I actually re-sorted everything and found all my tools again, the pistons are coming out for the final time so I can do the proper measurements on the rings. I literally slammed them together last week to check protrusions without actually making sure the rings fit properly so now im going through and carefully measuring piston ring groove clearances and end gaps to make sure they're in spec before the motor gets buttoned up fully. I've got three pistons fully checked out, 4th one on the bench and two more in the bores to do, then the head can go on for the final time and the motor start to get buttoned up! Gotta get another 40L of kerosene for my parts washer and get rid of all the ugly used up stuff thats in there first though, got a lotta degreasing to do.
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Sep 24, 2018 15:02
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 spotted
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Sep 24, 2018 19:12
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Well.. I managed to hyper extend my left knee last night, so this morning was a lovely mixture of attempting to drive the manual hilux to work, making it to the local servo before driving back home using only 2nd gear cos my GOD did changing gears hurt- and my day at work would have consisted of driving the massey ferguson with the verge mower on it, which is pretty much 20-30 clutch operations a minute going around poo poo with the cutter head SO... I stayed home and worked on the engine some more. Got all the pistons measured up, everything is in spec, so parts started to go back on the motor!  First up, Oil cooler, since its behind the injector pump, and I saved myself the headache of re-timing the injector pump by simply not removing it off the front timing housing, it had to go on first. First part, Tried to shine it up the best I could! Once that was on, the front timing housing and injector pump went back on and the timing gears got installed. Small problem here- the bolts that hold the thrust plate for the idler gear are meant to be torqued to 69nm of torque. First one torqued up nicely, second one just kept turning and I could feel SOMETHING yielding. Kinda terrified of pulling the threads out of the cast block, so pulled it all apart, couldnt see any damage to the threads on the block, but holding the M8x1.25 bolt up against a known good bolt, the threads on the bolt that didnt torque up were significantly wider thread pitch- the bolts actually stretching. So I'll throw them in the bin and get two new ones from Toyota. Means I cant put the front timing cover on properly, but i was able to drop it on and drop the harmonic balancer back on for now to work out where bottom Dead centre on #1 is so I could drop the head on.  Got the head on (which probably weighs closer to 55kg now with all the valves in it..) and torqued down.  Continued to do what I could on the front end without being able to seal up the timing cover- Water pump and upper water neck went on.  And then the mailman turned up with a package for me!  Sweet! Now i can put the turbo together and work on the hot side! Turbo assembled, bolted to the manifold and then the whole assembly lifted onto the studs on the block. This is so much easier to do when your NOT hanging the entire mess down into the engine bay working over the guard!  Theres only a small difference between the old factory turbo and the new MMP turbo.  Its subtle  Had to add extended lines from the compressor housing and wastegate to go up to the intake manifold where the solenoid for the boost controller lives  Speaking of Turbski's...  Twin turbski? I need one more worm drive clamp for the water pipe to the turbo (I lost one worm drive when I did the hose swap at 300K and re-used one of the stock spring clamps. Guess where the only coolant leak on the motor was....) but thats pretty much the entire hot side assembled as far as its going before its back in the chassis.  And this is how she sits as of tonight.  That desert red dust/mud stains ANYTHING made of metal, and it wont come off, hence why the pipework and bolt heads look so dirty. I would try and do something bout it, but honestly I dont actually care. Its not like its going to be clean for long!
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Sep 26, 2018 13:35
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Ferremit posted:Theres only a small difference between the old factory turbo and the new MMP turbo. From this I surmise more turbine blades = more power.
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Sep 26, 2018 15:34
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More blades more efficienter
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Sep 26, 2018 16:09
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Ferremit posted:dieselporn  So, uh, any chance of hyperextending the other knee? It'd be awful if you had to spend another day bolting together awesome engines.
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Sep 26, 2018 17:40
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