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Rhyno posted:I should do that as I have about 50 more outlets to swap out. Get the one with the GFCI test button though.
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Jan 1, 2019 19:36
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 17:45 |
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Description states it can handle 5A of current. That most likely isn't enough for two LED running lights. What are the specs on your lights? I'm trying to figure out exactly what that thing does, it appears it switches when it sees the higher voltage of the electrical system when the engine is running and the alternator is working? Either way, if your lights need more than 5A, you could add a simple relay to that module to get your higher current switching.
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Jan 10, 2019 06:13
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What year XB? I'll look up and see what the factory did in alldata tomorrow.
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Jan 10, 2019 06:53
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If you are going to measure with a multimeter, put it in DC amp mode and switch the leads. Put the meter in line with the light and measure the current flowing through. As for that module, I was assuming he just wanted it to turn the lights on while the car was running, the yellow dimming wire was optional. Those OEM units may not support dimming anyway.
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Jan 10, 2019 07:57
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Adiabatic posted:I'm no expert but I'd wager a guess that it has to do with the depletion zone width, which can vary depending on the density of the dopant for both the p and n junctions. A diode, LED or otherwise, is a P-N junction. This junction is made from an element like silicon which has been chemically doped to change its electrical properties. Normally, silicon is an insulator, but by adding boron to it, you create a P type doped conductor. P type silicon has had electrons removed from it, creating 'holes' which allows it to carry a positive electrical charge. Adding antimony to silicon creates a N type doping, which opposite from the P type, has extra electrons. When you create a junction of these two, the extra electrons from the P type will hop over across to the electron deficient N type. This effectively creates normal silicon, an insulator, as there are no extra electrons, or missing electrons. This is the depletion region and effectively becomes an insulator as it does not transfer charge. Applying a voltage across the junction in the forward direction, ie negative to N and positive to P, will shrink this depletion region as the electrons and holes move across the junction. The electrons in the circuit will be able to hop across the depletion region, which is the flow of current. Reversing the positive and negative connections causes the depletion region to grow larger, as the electrons and holes are pulled away from the junction, creating a larger insulator and stopping the flow of current. That is why a diode can be thought of as a one way valve. Now, there is a limit of how much the one way valve can hold back. If while the diode is reverse biased, we continue to apply a higher and higher voltage, the diode will experience an avalanche breakdown. Voltage is a measure of electrical potential, whereas current is a measure of electron flow. The more electrons which accumulate at one point, the higher the voltage potential difference. As we increase reverse voltage, the electric force we exert on the electrons in the junction also increases. At the breakdown point, the force will be great enough to tear the electrons bonds and accelerate them across the insulative junction. In turn, they will collide with other electrons, freeing them and causing the holes and electrons to recombine, causing rapid increases in current. At this point, the internal resistance of the diode is zero, and the device will act as a short, causing damage to itself. As for how an LED creates light, when the diode is forward biased, the process electron and hole combination creates a stable, complete atom, which emits a bit of energy, a photon. As this process happens over and over, the result is the solid light we see. So, that being said, at 12VDC, you should be able to quickly connect the light and check to see if it illuminates. If not, quickly reverse the wires. As added protection, you can add a current limiting resistor for your test. The resistor is probably built into your lightpack though. What exact operation do you want these lights to exhibit? When do you want them on, off or dim? Can you take a picture of your multimeter and I'll try to explain why it might be reading weird. As for your load, if the lights were 25W (which would be quite powerful for LED), you would have a current draw of ~2A each, which still puts you under 5A. Again, explain how you'd like them to operate and we can go from there. Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 21:40
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I want them to be on whenever the ignition is on, bright as possible during the day so all the idiot drivers around here can see me clearly. But then they need to dim when I turn on the headlights so they don't overpower the headlights, or turn off completely if they don't support dimming. I guess I could start a thread in one of the scion forums (bleh) and maybe somebody can tell me how theirs works so i can figure out which harness to buy. No, it shouldn't hurt the lights, it just might make them flicker, or turn off. I don't know if there is any logic inside the DRL lights themselves, but with only two contacts in the connectors, I doubt it. All you can do is try it out on your desk with the lights, a module and a battery/or battery charger. Either of those modules should be suitable, I like the fancy one with the harnesses already personally, but its also can only handle 2.5A, whereas the first one was 5A. Personally, I would test the lights' current draw with a multimeter and either a battery charger or car battery first, to make sure you are not exceeding the current rating.
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Jan 11, 2019 01:02
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No, that is for those specific lights, with their specific burden resistor. A raw led connected directly to power will quickly burn itself out, unless you limit the current with a current limiting resistor. Different colours of LEDs have different forward voltages, and thus require different resistor values. As well, there is a huge range of power/light output in LEDs; obviously your power led on your pc will consume much less power than an LED spotlight. For example, those LEDs state they draw 12mA or 0.012A for three at 12VDC. Its not inconceivable for an LED foglight to be rated at 20W. Ohms law states Power=Voltage*Current so 20W/12V = 1.7A. This is much more power than those little LEDs. You said you are using a harbor freight multimeter. I am assuming its this piece of poo poo:  It was probably flashing 1 because its overrange. On the right side there is DCA(mps) and four ranges outlined in green. 200uA, 2000uA, 20mA and 200mA. These are all too low for the draw of your LEDs, as the highest reading you could get would be 200mA and anything over it flashes 1. Below is a 10A range, outlined in red. This means you can measure up to 10A, which is the one you want for this test. (Note, these cheap poo poo multimeters are not fused and can blow up catastrophically and dangerously in your face if overloaded. Don't use it to measure anything more than 10A or anything more than 30VDC please) You will have to move the red wire to the 10A port on the top as well. Connect one red lead to your power source (battery +), connect one of your LED terminals to battery -, and connect the black lead to the other pin on your LED. The LED should illuminate, and the meter should read the current, I would expect under 2A. If it doesn't light up, swap the pins on the LED (obviously if you know what pin on the led is negative, connect it to the battery -). Someone earlier posted a simple diagram of this.
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Jan 11, 2019 04:47
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Adiabatic posted:Take em all as input and make a voltage divider to tap 12v. Voltage divider means that you'll be dissipating the 24V voltage drop from your 36V as wasted energy. Going to need a pretty large power resistor for that one. Better to get a DC-DC converter to step the 36V down to 12V. Common ones use a buck coverter regulator. Here is a cheap one thats rated at 20A: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLF-CART-DC-BUCK-CONVERTER-20-AMP-48V-36V-VOLTAGE-REDUCER-REGULATOR-TO-12V-20A-/332636767119
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Jan 12, 2019 19:15
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Something seems odd. It would at least say 1.00A if it was 1A. It will still measure under an amp in that mode, but with less resolution. For example:  That small bulb is drawing 0.17A or 170mA. (I also enjoyed that this was the first time I've taken that POS out of the box. When pushing in the leads to the meter, I heard a crack and the plastic inside broke.)
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Jan 12, 2019 22:39
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 17:45 |
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Ok, I went to home depot and got a real multimeter. It started at 0.00, hooked it up, light illuminated and it read......0.01 lol. 10mA is unlikely. A standard little red LED has a forward current of 20mA usually. Can you take a picture of your setup and new meter. Something isn't adding up. You probably did good buying a real meter anyway. Once you can use it well, it will come in handy for a lot of stuff.
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Jan 13, 2019 06:27
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