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 So after all the peer pressure in the import cool stuff from japan thread I bought an Autozam az-1 meme car, and it has some issues.                           to do list as of day 1:  new trunk right arm (bent to poo poo) *brake fluid *gear box *radiator *thermostat move pedals up like 3-4 inches some how have ac converted from r12 to r134a all new belts spark plug wires air filter new front hood stay up stick wargames fucked around with this message at 01:11 on May 9, 2019 |
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Mar 9, 2019 22:28
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This is the automotive equivalent of 
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Mar 9, 2019 22:51
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Eyeballing it, that rust in the passenger floorpan doesn't look like it's penetrated. Try cleaning it up with some vinegar or Evaporust and a brush first. The driver floorpan..
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Mar 9, 2019 23:28
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Eyeballing it, that rust in the passenger floorpan doesn't look like it's penetrated. Try cleaning it up with some vinegar or Evaporust and a brush first. I have this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XBGEFV0N2TH5J4G73JM9 its phosphoric acid, you can learn about good rust killing methods and why i chose phosphoric acid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi-tK1jwO-k
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Mar 9, 2019 23:35
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I like your floor mounted escape hatch. Have you had a chance to look at the suspension yet?
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Mar 9, 2019 23:46
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The Door Frame posted:I like your floor mounted escape hatch. Have you had a chance to look at the suspension yet? Just tore out the seats and carpet after spending several hours getting more stuff like a welder. So no idea how the underside looks.
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Mar 9, 2019 23:47
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Here is a guide a guy put together in the AZ-1/Cara Facebook group that's really helpful: http://puu.sh/CXD8r/a0f4b4c0a1.pdf The front floors have these support brackets that you can see that are separate from the actual floors, and you probably have some sort of leak in the front that allows water to drip in hence the sound deadening fabric stuff holding water and rusting the super-thin floor away. I had to use a torch to heat up the bolts and a vice-grip to get them out. POR-15'd them and got new bolts while POR-15'n the floor and using a bit of fiberglass to build the floor across the holes I had. That driver's side rear seat bracket support thing is something else though goddamn. You can see how it's supposed to look from the passenger side, but that bar that's no longer there is what supports your weight, so that support will need to be rebuilt and welded in place. Should be straight forward, I don't remember and wiring or anything being back there but you'll see soon enough. Oil filters can be had at any auto parts store, I believe OEM Miata filters from around 1997 are cross-compatible, so plenty of choice off the shelf. Fuel filter is the same, Fram G5237 or equivalent and it is right up top so no reason not to change it, especially if that is the original battery. If you want OEM-style door struts you will have a kind of difficult time, there are ones you can get from Europe but you have to figure out how to mount them in the body of the car as the threads don't match. You can get OEM-style replacements from Japan but they are reportedly way too strong and will whip the doors open on you. If you don't mind them being weaker than OEM but much stronger than what they are now you can order 8 of these ball studs that thread directly into the current mounting points, then get 4 of these VW Phaeton trunk struts (yes really) and use them to attach to the now-installed studs, and have functional doors that nobody will be able to tell aren't OEM. It's a much easier and cheaper route then the other ways, plus there are no modifications and you can go right back to OEM if you'd like. Note that if you convert the AC you are going to be putting a bunch more stress on the compressor, you're going to find whatever leaks that might be there much easier and it won't cool as much. There is no way around this as the molecular weight difference between R12 and R134 means this is an inevitability. I'd just get the AC system sealed and fill it with actual R12 and save a bunch of headache, you can still buy actual-real R12 off ebay for around 30-40 bucks a can. I find it personally worth it as it means the AC systems work exactly as designed and have refilled the AC systems on a few of my ~cool JDM rides~ including the AZ-1. This stuff is specifically what I've bought before For the belts (including the timing) the official procedure is to drop the engine out. Since you seem to be a smaller dude (like me  ) there is ways that people in Japan have changed the timing belt with the engine in the car. The other belts are easy enough to reach so no issues there. Spark plugs are kind of a PITA and you'll be using that rear hatch in the firewall to order to access them. Air filter, if you want to stay OEM, must be ordered from Japan. You could also stick on an aftermarket cone filter too, lots of AZs running around with that setup. No idea about the pedals though. KakerMix fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Mar 10, 2019 |
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Mar 10, 2019 00:23
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KakerMix posted:Here is a guide a guy put together in the AZ-1/Cara Facebook group that's really helpful: http://puu.sh/CXD8r/a0f4b4c0a1.pdf Stuff i acquire before getting the az-1 Fuel filter (the fram one because i been in the az-1 facespace group) brake pads from mu monster performance rubber bushings for the suspension. I may stay with r12 depending on if the ac works no idea as i running off the jump pack to get onto the trailer and just pushed it into its new home for the next however many weeks it takes me to learn welding. belts i may have some else deal with because i would be way more comfortable with the az-1 being on a lift for that. door dampers the single strip ones are fairly common here but there seems to be third non-oem type https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search/search?auccat=26318&tab_ex=commerce&ei=utf-8&aq=-1&oq=&sc_i=&exflg=1&p=P100-58-720A&x=0&y=0&fixed=0 here https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j555216504 The pedals are going to be fun to figure out. QUESTION what type and gauge of steel sheet should i buy for this horrible attempt at welding? wargames fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Mar 10, 2019 |
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Mar 10, 2019 00:42
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Is there a makerspace or a DIY auto shop in your area? The shop I use rents out 2 post lifts for $25/hr on weekdays, including air and hand tools (and plenty of specialty tools in the office that you can sign out). It makes life so much easier vs ramps or jackstands.
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Mar 10, 2019 09:20
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STR posted:Is there a makerspace or a DIY auto shop in your area? There are no makerspaces in my town that i know about or can see on the googles, also only see one article about rental lifts from 2011.
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Mar 10, 2019 10:50
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Go for 1.2mm sheet for rust repairs. Makes it a bit easier to weld to thin steel (you “arc” against the thick stuff and and blend the weld pool into the thin sheet so it doesn’t cop as much heat)
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Mar 10, 2019 12:47
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Could look at using R152 canned air to charge the system.
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Mar 10, 2019 15:20
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Day 2 of the recovery program but with more acid!    Applied metal brush then shopvac   Apply acid       wait some time     wait with cat    
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Mar 10, 2019 21:14
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wargames posted:Day 2 of the recovery program but with more acid! You are really going to want to remove those inner support portions bolted down on the inside of the footwells, they are not welded to the actual floor (as evidenced by them going over the weird circle punches that are gooped into the floor) and will be harboring more rust on both the floor it's covering and the underside of the supports themselves. The floors don't actually look bad though, on mine they had rusted completely through on the driver's side.
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Mar 10, 2019 21:26
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KakerMix posted:You are really going to want to remove those inner support portions bolted down on the inside of the footwells, they are not welded to the actual floor (as evidenced by them going over the weird circle punches that are gooped into the floor) and will be harboring more rust on both the floor it's covering and the underside of the supports themselves. The floors don't actually look bad though, on mine they had rusted completely through on the driver's side. rust did go through the passanger side but not nearly as bad.
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Mar 10, 2019 21:40
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Looks a lot better. I don’t envy you the patch job on that driver side support but that’s why this thread is already awesome.
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Mar 10, 2019 21:52
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Toms turbo garage has some good videos where he pulled the engine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhnLbyibi8o
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Mar 11, 2019 15:58
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Don Lapre posted:Toms turbo garage has some good videos where he pulled the engine That series is great. Not much progress will happen on the weekdays but did pick up some 11ga hot rolled steel for $0.99 a pound at this metal place like 10 minutes from work.  got visted by patches the not mine but totally likes to hang out in my yard outside kitty  and samson loves the the japanese farts seats 
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Mar 11, 2019 23:20
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warrrgghhh, life has been busy and hectic and i suck at welding. So before i damaged the car anymore then i did I reached out to local people and had them fix the rust while i worked back to back weekends. Then i proceeded to fail to document the following changes, brakes pads replaced, new tires put on, new fuel filter, new oil filter, new oil, new battery meant for a snow mobile (arctic cat t660 uses the k6a engine ie the more advance verison of the engine in the z1 ),tighten the gently caress out the alternator belt (learned it was loose when the brand new fully charged battery died on me). So alright everything is working i everything is fine, i drive to work with it, and on the way home, maybe 0.5 away from home the alternator i tighten down eats itself and have to drive home with the alternator dead. however fun times i got home and i have new door dampers. the yahoo auction ones that are suppose to be too strong. however i only installed one on the driver side door and that appears to have fixed the droopy door on my dead az1. New belts are incoming.           
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May 9, 2019 01:28
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Happy to see an update on this thread! How often have you been hit up to have someone try to buy it from you?
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May 9, 2019 01:47
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Happy to see an update on this thread! How often have you been hit up to have someone try to buy it from you? since i have literally only driven it 3 days because the car is filled with gremlins only once so far.
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May 9, 2019 02:33
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So the alternator ate itself or the belt did? Wanna see you welded up floor too
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May 9, 2019 03:39
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AUTOZAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
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May 9, 2019 05:48
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KakerMix posted:So the alternator ate itself or the belt did? the belt died, the alternator still spins, and next time i get a chance to remove all the carpet and seat will take photos, and will get some underside shots when i take it up the shop.
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May 9, 2019 14:51
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I lied i do have some pictures     with the magic of editing             fixed the door struts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56DjLKZzsks wargames fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 12, 2019 |
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May 12, 2019 21:10
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gently caress yeah
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May 12, 2019 21:51
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Any updates?
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Jul 27, 2019 23:55
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sharkytm posted:Any updates? Tons actually! been super busy with work and did the not Ai thing and dropped the az1 off at a shop so they can work on it while temps were in the 100+ range. they replaced the clutch, o2 sensor, thermostat, transmission oil, ignition wires, timing belt, water pump, map sensor, water temp gauge, all the suspension bushings, and converted the ac to r134. Also got the windows tinted. now comes the bad. the AC compressor was dying before the conversion and the clutch bearing gave up ghost 2 days ago. I am having fun sourcing a replacement. The other bad thing is the car currently like to come out of alignment, i do not know if that is the car settling into the new bushings or something is super loose in the suspension. The fun thing is the car so narrow 98% of the alignment racks in town can't align the car.
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Jul 28, 2019 00:29
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wargames posted:they replaced the clutch, o2 sensor, thermostat, transmission oil, ignition wires, timing belt, water pump, map sensor, water temp gauge, all the suspension bushings, and converted the ac to r134. Are they a specialty shop? Do they have a factory service manual for the harder stuff to be able to give you book quotes?
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Jul 28, 2019 08:04
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kimbo305 posted:Are they a specialty shop? Do they have a factory service manual for the harder stuff to be able to give you book quotes? They have the factory service manual in japanese because i gave it to them, and no they aren't a specialty shop. Also note this was past tense and has already occurred. I am going to try and take apart the dash today and replace the instrument cluster bulbs as the cluster is prett dark at night.
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Jul 28, 2019 13:10
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Don't have any befores but the instrument cluster was super dark at night and persumed (rightfully so) that some of the bulbs were dead. So the quest starts!           
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Aug 4, 2019 03:53
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I love the racing look of the gauges, then realizing that the speedo stops at 140... kph. That's 85mph, 
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Aug 4, 2019 14:39
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The 85 mph speedometer was a law in the US from 79 to 81, but it stuck around much longer due to inertia and production. I wonder if that's an artifact of it. They thought people psychologically would keep the needle in the center of the speedometer and drive closer to 55 for max fuel economy but nobody did.
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Aug 4, 2019 15:09
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That does have a speed limiter of 84 MPH.
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Aug 4, 2019 15:54
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Small update. When I was putting the dash back together I plugged the emergency indicator button back in and the housing just crumbled.  But parts aren't too hard to come by       And the dash is also super brittle plastic but nothing a little super glue can't fix!    cat tax 
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Aug 24, 2019 17:44
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Super glue (cyanoacrylate) can typically turn brittle with time. Best using an epoxy in cases like that. Laying a little fiberglass will hold it in place too.
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Aug 25, 2019 22:35
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