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Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel
I just realized that we don't have an India megathread here, and a lot of these questions are being pushed around in the Southeast Asia and China threads. As India and the surrounding region is a pretty major travel destination, let's use this thread as a resource and safe space to complain about how much of a pain in the rear end it can be to travel there.

For the geographically challenged, South Asia generally comprises:
- India
- Pakistan
- Bangladesh
- Nepal
- Bhutan
- Sri Lanka

Destinations:
- Mumbai: Cosmopolitan heart of India with a western vibe. Home of Bollywood and the Indian financial center.
- Delhi: Sprawling shithole on the banks of the Yamuna river. Very hot, very dirty, but lots of history.
- Agra: Home of the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and lots of touts. Recommend a long day trip from Delhi if you can.
- Goa: Indian state which used to be a Portuguese colony. This is where you go for beaches in India.
- Kolkata: Old British capital on the banks of the Hooghly river. Starting point for anything in northeast India.
- Kathmandu: Sprawling capital of Nepal. Very crowded, bad traffic, polluted but with a lot of history. Starting point for trekking in Nepal.
- Pokhara: Quaint town by the foot of the Annapurna range. Starting point for treks in western Nepal.
- Annapurna Conservation Area: Home of the famed annapurna circuit, annapurna base camp, and Mustang treks; among others. Crowded and touristy.
- Sagarmatha National Park: Home of Mt Everest and the Sherpa people. Less crowded, but more remote than Annapurna.
- Bhutan: Mountain kingdom that requires a tour costing $250+ a day to visit. Expensive, but better experience for mountain treks than Nepal or India.
- Sunderbans: Mangrove forest on the Bay of Bengal that spans India and Bangladesh. Tigers and rivers; accessible from Kolkata or Dhaka.
- Dhaka: Sprawling, overpopulated and polluted capital of Bangladesh. Not a usual tourist destination, but has appeal if you like chaos and are more adventurous.
- Kandy: City in central Sri Lanka in tea country. Very atmospheric area with a scenic mountain train.
- Lahore: Punjabi city on the other side of the India/Pakistan border. Lots of history and culture. Less likely to be kidnapped than other areas of Pakistan.

Potential discussion topics:
- Obtaining an Indian visa.
- Signing up and buying train tickets with the IRCTC website.
- Why trekking in the monsoon is a bad idea.
- Nepal trek routes and the current road construction situation.
- How to cope when you get food poisoning.
- Comedic tales of aggressive rickshaw drivers.
- Language and Culture
- Food and Cuisine
- Why is there literally poo poo everywhere.

Helpful Links:
IRCTC (Indian Railways)
Seat 61 India Rail Guide
Indian Visa Applications
CDC Foodborne Illness Guide
Sri Lanka Railways

I just got back from another six weeks in Nepal and India, and will try to update the OP moving forward. Let me know if you have anything to add!

Cheesemaster200 fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Nov 29, 2019

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webmeister
Jan 31, 2007

The answer is, mate, because I want to do you slowly. There has to be a bit of sport in this for all of us. In the psychological battle stakes, we are stripped down and ready to go. I want to see those ashen-faced performances; I want more of them. I want to be encouraged. I want to see you squirm.
Cool thread idea, will bookmark! I spent a couple of months in India and Sri Lanka earlier this year, and I'm going back to India and then Nepal next year as well so I'm happy to lend thoughts and experience as needed.

A couple of tips from me:
- most historic sites in India are run by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and you can buy tickets online in advance. Their portal is https://asi.payumoney.com which sounds hilariously like a scam site but is actually legit.
- If you're travelling independently across India for more than a week or so, take a couple of hours from your first day and get an Indian SIM card. It's dirt cheap, I think we paid about $5 for a 30-day SIM, limited to 5GB of data per day. Translating, navigating etc is just so much easier when you're online.
- The MVP of our India trip was definitely Uber (and the Indian equivalent, Ola). Uber is available in every 1st/2nd tier Indian city, so you can rely on it for cheap transport most of the time. Prices are fixed by the app and you can follow the journey, so you can't get ripped off or taken for a literal ride by scam drivers (of which there are a ton, especially at train stations).
- Get the ixigo app, it makes monitoring the lateness of your trains really easy

I'd also add: India, and Delhi in particular is probably the world's culture shock capital. The first day or two is super intense, but it gets easier. Stick to vegetarian food, street food that you can see cooking, and busy restaurants. Eating in your hotel restaurant where you're the only customers for the day is a disaster waiting to happen.

Casual Yogurt
Jul 1, 2005

Cool tricks kid, I like your style.
I did a week solo in Sri Lanka last year and had an amazing time. I took trains to Kandy and Anuradhapura, I very much want to go back and explore the rest of the country.

It is really easy to check the train info on the government site:

http://www.railway.gov.lk/web/

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

webmeister posted:

Cool thread idea, will bookmark! I spent a couple of months in India and Sri Lanka earlier this year, and I'm going back to India and then Nepal next year as well so I'm happy to lend thoughts and experience as needed.

A couple of tips from me:
- most historic sites in India are run by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and you can buy tickets online in advance. Their portal is https://asi.payumoney.com which sounds hilariously like a scam site but is actually legit.
- If you're travelling independently across India for more than a week or so, take a couple of hours from your first day and get an Indian SIM card. It's dirt cheap, I think we paid about $5 for a 30-day SIM, limited to 5GB of data per day. Translating, navigating etc is just so much easier when you're online.
- The MVP of our India trip was definitely Uber (and the Indian equivalent, Ola). Uber is available in every 1st/2nd tier Indian city, so you can rely on it for cheap transport most of the time. Prices are fixed by the app and you can follow the journey, so you can't get ripped off or taken for a literal ride by scam drivers (of which there are a ton, especially at train stations).
- Get the ixigo app, it makes monitoring the lateness of your trains really easy

I'd also add: India, and Delhi in particular is probably the world's culture shock capital. The first day or two is super intense, but it gets easier. Stick to vegetarian food, street food that you can see cooking, and busy restaurants. Eating in your hotel restaurant where you're the only customers for the day is a disaster waiting to happen.

I was under the impression that Indian SIM cards were a pain in the rear end to get, with lots of paperwork and waiting, etc. Did they ease that process recently?

I got food poisoning off Paneer Makhani my first night in delhi; after spending three weeks in Tibet and two weeks in Nepal. I am 0/2 with food poisoning for trips to India.

webmeister
Jan 31, 2007

The answer is, mate, because I want to do you slowly. There has to be a bit of sport in this for all of us. In the psychological battle stakes, we are stripped down and ready to go. I want to see those ashen-faced performances; I want more of them. I want to be encouraged. I want to see you squirm.

Cheesemaster200 posted:

I was under the impression that Indian SIM cards were a pain in the rear end to get, with lots of paperwork and waiting, etc. Did they ease that process recently?

I got food poisoning off Paneer Makhani my first night in delhi; after spending three weeks in Tibet and two weeks in Nepal. I am 0/2 with food poisoning for trips to India.

It’s not the easiest sim I’ve ever gotten but it wasn’t too bad. We just went to an official Vodafone store in Delhi and waited about an hour, then the process itself took another hour. You need your passport and your visa, but assuming you know that in advance it’s okay.

In quintessentially Indian style, the main reason it took so long was because the guy had to fill out the paper form, then type the exact same information into the computer system as well :psyduck:

ReindeerF
Apr 20, 2002

Rubber Dinghy Rapids Bro
Generally speaking, my experience traveling in all kinds of countries is that the best thing you can do related to SIM cards as a tourist is go to the largest, most central, official mobile phone provider (of your choice) store and sit there until it works. As a resident or a frequent visitor to places you can learn the ins and outs, but if you're just swinging through, it's worth the extra few dollars to follow the premium tourist pathway that sometimes ends up costing a bit more just to get it working, because time and convenience is worth the premium. On the other hand, if you're staying long-term in a place, search around in the local language for the best deal and then sign up for that if it's possible. There will be airport kiosks, convenience stores and tons of other options, but the brand store has to service you until it works. Yes, I've done border-town SIM cards plenty of times and airport SIM cards and everything else and it's worked, but I've also ended up plenty of times with options that don't pan out. The brand store always has to pan out as long as you sit there, smiling, intransigently, and refuse to leave until it works.

Smiling intransigently is the magic bullet for a lot of Asia. There's no pathway for dealing with the foreigner who won't leave until you solve the problem, but also refuses to get angry or engage in an argument.

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009
Hey guys! I'll be backpacking to Nepal with my SO in early March for about 3 weeks, as first part of a multi-month long trip around the globe. It'll be our first time there, and our second time in South Asia as we've been to Sri Lanka 2 years ago.

So far we are planning to start with the classic circuit Kathmandu - KTH Valley - Pokhara - Annapurna and improvise from there, so we're open to suggestions if there is something really cool to check out, ideally away from the crowds :)

We've also been looking into doing some trekking, but we're not very experienced and would therefore prefer to keep it at 4-5 days tops if possible (which unfortunately rules out Everest base camp). Are there any recommendations for that?

With regards to the season, it seems March can be quite frisky depending on location, but I have no idea what temperatures to expect at which altitude and what equipment to pack. As we're trying to keep our bags light, we've been thinking about bringing just the necessary, and buy some warm stuff on site (and maybe sell/donate it later). Is that a good plan? Also, how crowded can we expect it to be?

Thanks in advance for your answers!

Luffles
Jul 25, 2007

The Bird of Hermes Is My Name, Eating My Wings To Make Me Tame

I LIKE COOKIE posted:

Vietnam has a 1 year visa for Americans now. My vote would be to go to Vietnam. It's cheaper than Thailand, and there's much more going on there than Laos. I'm biased though because I love Vietnam soooo much and lived in Saigon for a while. The food is better, the people are more fun, and the chaotic fast paced way of life is thrilling. In the south I was treated like a celebrity and everyone loved me, its easy to get used to.

Quote from the previous thread, but this was such good advice that I got the one year visa to Vietnam, went to visit; and also fell in love. I guess I also gave notice at my job and am booking flights to go back and live in Nha Trang. Good poo poo dude, thanks!

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

Chikimiki posted:

Hey guys! I'll be backpacking to Nepal with my SO in early March for about 3 weeks, as first part of a multi-month long trip around the globe. It'll be our first time there, and our second time in South Asia as we've been to Sri Lanka 2 years ago.

So far we are planning to start with the classic circuit Kathmandu - KTH Valley - Pokhara - Annapurna and improvise from there, so we're open to suggestions if there is something really cool to check out, ideally away from the crowds :)

We've also been looking into doing some trekking, but we're not very experienced and would therefore prefer to keep it at 4-5 days tops if possible (which unfortunately rules out Everest base camp). Are there any recommendations for that?

With regards to the season, it seems March can be quite frisky depending on location, but I have no idea what temperatures to expect at which altitude and what equipment to pack. As we're trying to keep our bags light, we've been thinking about bringing just the necessary, and buy some warm stuff on site (and maybe sell/donate it later). Is that a good plan? Also, how crowded can we expect it to be?

Thanks in advance for your answers!

The Annapurna region has been uber-developed, and you will feel more like cattle than trekkers. There are now roads all the way to Ghorepani, Ghandruk and depending on landslides the outskirts of Chomrong. 3500 NPR gets you, and hordes of other mainland tourists from Nayapul to anywhere significant outside of the sanctuary. Menus, room rates and at guesthouses are set by the annapurna tourism cartel at sky high prices. Dhal Bhat used to be the cheapest thing on the menu; now it is the most expensive.

That sounds grim, but it isn't all bad. There is still some good trekking to be had, and the jeep situation allows you to get into the sanctuary with less trekking time.

Day 1 Jeed from Pokhara->Nayapul->Ghandruk or terminus of the road to Chomrong (in reality Jinhudanda). The road forks below Ghandruk, with one way going on a well maintained road to Ghandruk and the other towards Chomrong. The road to Chomrong will likely be blocked due to rockfall halfway to Jhinudanda, and the jeeps will pool there and drop you off. I forget the name of the town. It's about a half day trek to Chomrong. If you leave Pokhara in the early morning it should be doable.
Day 2: Chomrong to halfway to ABC (Deurali, Bamboo?) After the park checkpoint on the way out of Chomrong it is more traditional trekking; no roads and limited guesthouses.
Day 3: Deurali to ABC or midpoint. Depending on how you are feeling and acclimatizing, the hike to ABC may take 2-3 days.
Day 4: Finish to ABC; spend the night at this awesome location.
Day 5: ABC back to Chomrong. We did this in a very long day in a downpour. Doable, but tough.
Day 6: Chomrong back to Jeep pickup point. It will be too cold for Jhinu hot springs, so you will make good time.

Costs are 2500 NPR from Pokhara to Nayapul. 3500 NPR from Nayapul to Ghandruk/Jeep point. You will also need a TIMS card and Annapurna National Park entrance which will be $40 combined. You can get it in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

We did Poon Hill, ABC and half day in Jhinu hot springs, pokhara to pokhara in seven days. It was in the monsoon (massive miserable rain all the time) which made for slow trekking, and my wife was not feeling it the majority of the trek. However we were also in very good shape. Max altitude is like 13,500' at ABC so you will feel it. However acclimatization isn't as critical like Thorong La or in the Khumbu (everest region). With enough motivation and stamina you could reasonably do ABC in 5 days. There are also helicopters that regularly land at ABC, so you could also theoretically grab a seat back with them. However I am not sure how that works one-way. There will be many people in Pokhara dying to let you know.

The other option is Poon Hill, which has some amazing views but lackluster trekking into Ghorepani; primarily due to the road for half of it. The trek on the ridge from Gorephani to Chomrong was actually quite nice with great vistas of the south annapurna range. Lots of people heading to Poon Hill, but the accommodation is much nicer than most all trekking in Nepal.

You can outfit an everest expedition in Thamel Kathmandu, though be wary with what items you decide to buy. Some things are very good value, others are pieces of poo poo. Sunglasses are one thing I recommend bringing good versions of as everything in the entire country is crap. You can rent sleeping bags and buy a liner; I did that when I trekked everest and it worked rather well. Pokhara actually has name brand stores with quality gear, though at western prices. You used to be able to donate gear to porters and locals, but the area is so commercialized now I don't know how much of it actually helps the locals.

The bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara is 6-12 hours depending on the traffic out of the valley. I recommend Green Line because they are dependable and serve a good lunch halfway. They are $25/each way and have an office adjacent to Thamel where they drop off and pick up. Private cars are ~$100, but totally worth it if you can afford it or split with other travelers. Flying is also an option, but they close the Pokhara airport when they "cant see the adjacent mountain from the terminal". Direct quote from the airport staff on that one. However in March you will be fine as that is well before the monsoon. The monsoon loving sucks in Nepal.

I wouldn't worry about the weather in March. It will likely be cold at altitude, but the Annapurna are is very well worn. You also won't have to worry about not getting a room in teahouses.

As far as other stuff to do: Pokhara is a really fun town, but doesn't have many sights. Its a great place to relax, eat, drink and party if you are into that. Kathmandu has a lot of very interesting temples. Recommend Boudhanath at the very least, KTM Durbar square, and Swayambhunath. If you have more time, head over to Patan or Bhaktapur. However the latter two are very similar to the Durbar Square in Kathmandu. You also have the ghats at Pashupatinath, but I still have not done that due to objections over tourism at a cremation site. Kathmandu is also very good for wandering the old town streets. There are lots of temples and shrines littered all over the place primed for exploration. If you are looking to buy things, Kathmandu also has a lot of very cheap metalwares such as statues, etc. You can mail next to anything back for a price.

More afield, Lumbini is a buddhist pilgrimage site near the indian border, and Chitwan national park is a great place to see wildlife.

Thats a lot of digest, so let me know if you have any follow up questions.

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009

Cheesemaster200 posted:

The Annapurna region has been uber-developed, and you will feel more like cattle than trekkers. There are now roads all the way to Ghorepani, Ghandruk and depending on landslides the outskirts of Chomrong. 3500 NPR gets you, and hordes of other mainland tourists from Nayapul to anywhere significant outside of the sanctuary. Menus, room rates and at guesthouses are set by the annapurna tourism cartel at sky high prices. Dhal Bhat used to be the cheapest thing on the menu; now it is the most expensive.

That sounds grim, but it isn't all bad. There is still some good trekking to be had, and the jeep situation allows you to get into the sanctuary with less trekking time.

Day 1 Jeed from Pokhara->Nayapul->Ghandruk or terminus of the road to Chomrong (in reality Jinhudanda). The road forks below Ghandruk, with one way going on a well maintained road to Ghandruk and the other towards Chomrong. The road to Chomrong will likely be blocked due to rockfall halfway to Jhinudanda, and the jeeps will pool there and drop you off. I forget the name of the town. It's about a half day trek to Chomrong. If you leave Pokhara in the early morning it should be doable.
Day 2: Chomrong to halfway to ABC (Deurali, Bamboo?) After the park checkpoint on the way out of Chomrong it is more traditional trekking; no roads and limited guesthouses.
Day 3: Deurali to ABC or midpoint. Depending on how you are feeling and acclimatizing, the hike to ABC may take 2-3 days.
Day 4: Finish to ABC; spend the night at this awesome location.
Day 5: ABC back to Chomrong. We did this in a very long day in a downpour. Doable, but tough.
Day 6: Chomrong back to Jeep pickup point. It will be too cold for Jhinu hot springs, so you will make good time.

Costs are 2500 NPR from Pokhara to Nayapul. 3500 NPR from Nayapul to Ghandruk/Jeep point. You will also need a TIMS card and Annapurna National Park entrance which will be $40 combined. You can get it in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

We did Poon Hill, ABC and half day in Jhinu hot springs, pokhara to pokhara in seven days. It was in the monsoon (massive miserable rain all the time) which made for slow trekking, and my wife was not feeling it the majority of the trek. However we were also in very good shape. Max altitude is like 13,500' at ABC so you will feel it. However acclimatization isn't as critical like Thorong La or in the Khumbu (everest region). With enough motivation and stamina you could reasonably do ABC in 5 days. There are also helicopters that regularly land at ABC, so you could also theoretically grab a seat back with them. However I am not sure how that works one-way. There will be many people in Pokhara dying to let you know.

The other option is Poon Hill, which has some amazing views but lackluster trekking into Ghorepani; primarily due to the road for half of it. The trek on the ridge from Gorephani to Chomrong was actually quite nice with great vistas of the south annapurna range. Lots of people heading to Poon Hill, but the accommodation is much nicer than most all trekking in Nepal.

You can outfit an everest expedition in Thamel Kathmandu, though be wary with what items you decide to buy. Some things are very good value, others are pieces of poo poo. Sunglasses are one thing I recommend bringing good versions of as everything in the entire country is crap. You can rent sleeping bags and buy a liner; I did that when I trekked everest and it worked rather well. Pokhara actually has name brand stores with quality gear, though at western prices. You used to be able to donate gear to porters and locals, but the area is so commercialized now I don't know how much of it actually helps the locals.

The bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara is 6-12 hours depending on the traffic out of the valley. I recommend Green Line because they are dependable and serve a good lunch halfway. They are $25/each way and have an office adjacent to Thamel where they drop off and pick up. Private cars are ~$100, but totally worth it if you can afford it or split with other travelers. Flying is also an option, but they close the Pokhara airport when they "cant see the adjacent mountain from the terminal". Direct quote from the airport staff on that one. However in March you will be fine as that is well before the monsoon. The monsoon loving sucks in Nepal.

I wouldn't worry about the weather in March. It will likely be cold at altitude, but the Annapurna are is very well worn. You also won't have to worry about not getting a room in teahouses.

As far as other stuff to do: Pokhara is a really fun town, but doesn't have many sights. Its a great place to relax, eat, drink and party if you are into that. Kathmandu has a lot of very interesting temples. Recommend Boudhanath at the very least, KTM Durbar square, and Swayambhunath. If you have more time, head over to Patan or Bhaktapur. However the latter two are very similar to the Durbar Square in Kathmandu. You also have the ghats at Pashupatinath, but I still have not done that due to objections over tourism at a cremation site. Kathmandu is also very good for wandering the old town streets. There are lots of temples and shrines littered all over the place primed for exploration. If you are looking to buy things, Kathmandu also has a lot of very cheap metalwares such as statues, etc. You can mail next to anything back for a price.

More afield, Lumbini is a buddhist pilgrimage site near the indian border, and Chitwan national park is a great place to see wildlife.

Thats a lot of digest, so let me know if you have any follow up questions.

Wow, that's a comprehensive answer! Thank you so much, but indeed I'll have to digest it first :pseudo:

However this kinda makes me afraid that the Annapurna circuit is goign to be some kind of Nepalese Disneyland... Don't get me wrong, I was expecting it to be popular and well-trodded. But it had hoped that it retained some more authenticity and had not yet been invaded by loud selfie-sticks carrying mainland tourists (I know, cliché as hell). Is it still worth it? Are there some other less busy alternatives ? Also, when we talk sky-high prices for accomodation & food, what can we expect? Like 2x or 3x the regular prices?

Many thanks again, and looking forward to hearing from you :)

Chikimiki fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Jan 18, 2020

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

Chikimiki posted:

Wow, that's a comprehensive answer! Thank you so much, but indeed I'll have to digest it first :pseudo:

However this kinda makes me afraid that the Annapurna circuit is goign to be some kind of Nepalese Disneyland... Don't get me wrong, I was expecting it to be popular and well-trodded. But it had hoped that it retained some more authenticity and had not yet been invaded by loud selfie-sticks carrying mainland tourists (I know, cliché as hell). Is it still worth it? Are there some other less busy alternatives ? Also, when we talk sky-high prices for accomodation & food, what can we expect? Like 2x or 3x the regular prices?

Many thanks again, and looking forward to hearing from you :)

The trek above Chomrong is still very nice, challenging and not swamped with idiots. Poon Hill isn't a waste, but wasn't as enjoyable. Both treks offer a trekking "experience", so it isn't like visiting the forbidden city or something with masses of tour groups. However the farther away from easy transportation, the more authentic it is.

Annapurna Circuit != Annapurna Sanctuary. The circuit goes around the Annapurna range, while the sanctuary goes into it. The circuit has a road that goes around ~75% of what used to be the trek. You used to need three weeks, but now you can do it in 1-2 depending on your itinerary.

I have attached the menu from ABC, which is the most expensive place on the Sanctuary trek. Each town has the prices set by the tourism cartel so you can't get cheaper rates at another guesthouse next door. HOWEVER in the off season when traffic is light, the guesthouse owners will give you discounted rates on rooms or even give them for free. Usually it is 500 NPR for a dorm bed, 1500 NPR for an ensuite bathroom. The room rates are also set by the cartel, but guesthouse owners are more likely to break from it with room rates as it directly affects who stays with them and pays for meals. Note that USDNPR is currently at 113 per USD. My complaining about costs is relative to me being an unemployed backpacker both times I visited.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel
Also, here is a flyer from the top of Poon Hill. They charge you 200rs to go up the hill in the first place, and then have a stand selling overpriced drinks on the top. To avoid people bringing their own drinks, they will fine and/or run out of town people who bring thermoses. This is the kind of crap that annoyed me about the Poon Hill area.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009
Hey, thanks again for the comprehensive advice! We really appreciate it, it's really awesome to have some good first hand account, especially since we'll also be cheap unemployed backpackers :v:

Based on the crap they pull on Poon Hill, I think we'll skip it because we don't wanna encourage behaviour like that (which borders on being predatory in my opinion). Interestingly enough this was not mentioned in any of the guide books I browsed. Glad to know about Chomrong in that case, it seems we'll have to do some more research before selecting some other points of interest.

So basically the Annapurna circuit is still cool as babby's first trek, but we shouldn't expect it to be virgin territory, and locals will be more about business, did I get that right?

I also read about the Langtang valley in the north, any experience with that?

Thanks again!

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

Chikimiki posted:

Hey, thanks again for the comprehensive advice! We really appreciate it, it's really awesome to have some good first hand account, especially since we'll also be cheap unemployed backpackers :v:

Based on the crap they pull on Poon Hill, I think we'll skip it because we don't wanna encourage behaviour like that (which borders on being predatory in my opinion). Interestingly enough this was not mentioned in any of the guide books I browsed. Glad to know about Chomrong in that case, it seems we'll have to do some more research before selecting some other points of interest.

So basically the Annapurna circuit is still cool as babby's first trek, but we shouldn't expect it to be virgin territory, and locals will be more about business, did I get that right?

I also read about the Langtang valley in the north, any experience with that?

Thanks again!

Much of what I have been discussing is the Annapurna Sanctuary. Ghorepani can actually be on both treks. It is on the tail end of the circuit (circumnavigating Annapurna) and also on one preliminary approach to the Sanctuary (into the center of the range). Below is an outdated map that exhibits the region. You do not have time for the circuit on 4-6 days.

I have not trekked in Langtang, but I did drive past it on my way from the border with Tibet at Gyirong to Kathmandu. We did this in the monsoon (ugh) and it was treacherous. There were multiple times we got caught up behind landslides and were almost stranded in the middle of nowhere. Pro tip: if you are stuck behind a road blockage going south, there are almost assuredly other people stuck on the other side of it going north. Getting around the blockage is usually just an quick transaction with those people to change jeeps. Regardless, expect a full day to get to the trail head for Langtang. The road is probably a lot better in March, but you may have snow and ice instead of mud and water.

Another option you may want to consider is flying into Jomson, and then walking back down the valley to Nayapul. Its all relatively low altitude, will likely not have much company for the majority of it, and puts the flight on the front end of the trek. . Putting the flight on the tail end of the trek could get you stuck if the weather doesn't cooperate.

You might also want to consider Mustang from Jomson, but that is rather expensive due to the permit fees. You also aren't trekking in lovely weather, so the rain shadow doesn't buy you much.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009
Thanks for clearing things up! I'm a big dumdum and only noticed now that ABC = Annapurna Base Camp :downs:
Anyways looks like Annapurna is "worth it" as a destination nonetheless, just have to be aware of some of the inconveniences! Looked also into flying to Jomson, could be a good option but we're gonna have to check for the flight prices. Mustang is unfortunately off the table due to the 500$ entry fee :v:

A few last questions (if that's not too much): what are the temperatures like in the Annapurna range in March? I saw something like 10°C/0°C day/night for Chomrong, and about 0°C/-10°C day/night for ABC, is that likely?

Otherwise for Kathmandu, would you have any recommendations for hostels and/or restaurants?

Thanks a lot again, this has been really helpful! :)

/Edit: Also, is a guide required for the Annapurna trek, or could we do it by ourselves?

Chikimiki fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jan 23, 2020

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

Chikimiki posted:

Thanks for clearing things up! I'm a big dumdum and only noticed now that ABC = Annapurna Base Camp :downs:
Anyways looks like Annapurna is "worth it" as a destination nonetheless, just have to be aware of some of the inconveniences! Looked also into flying to Jomson, could be a good option but we're gonna have to check for the flight prices. Mustang is unfortunately off the table due to the 500$ entry fee :v:

A few last questions (if that's not too much): what are the temperatures like in the Annapurna range in March? I saw something like 10°C/0°C day/night for Chomrong, and about 0°C/-10°C day/night for ABC, is that likely?

Otherwise for Kathmandu, would you have any recommendations for hostels and/or restaurants?

Thanks a lot again, this has been really helpful! :)

/Edit: Also, is a guide required for the Annapurna trek, or could we do it by ourselves?

I would guess it will get below freezing at night, and 40s during the day. We were there in September and it was in the mid 40s at ABC. I would do some google research though for some harder data. Kathmandu and Pokhara will be nice as they are at much lower elevations.

Kathmandu has a lot of variety with lodging and restaurants. My past trip I stayed at the Hotel Friends Home on the way in, and the Aloft on the way out. The latter is a western chain, but is probably one of the best hotels in the country for like $125 a night. It has an indoor pool on the penthouse floor. The Friends Home was okay; well priced and clean but nothing special. I have also stayed at the Kathmandu Guest House in the past. Their rooms are okay, but they have beautiful grounds and the best location for a traveler. The geographic center for a tourist will be the square in front of Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel. It is in a officially pedestrian only zone, which means bikes will ignore that rule but cars will still stay out. On that street you will find Yin Yang, Third Eye, OR2K and Sam's Bar. The first two are expensive, but good food that makes for a nice post-trek dinner. OR2K makes amazing vegetarian, and Sam's Bar is (was) a mountaineering bar for climbing patrons.

Pokhara also has a outpost of OR2K that overlooks the lake; would highly recommend. I stayed at Three Jewels in Pokhara and was quite happy with it. It is a bit off the main drag along the lake, but well priced with amazing staff and breakfast.

You don't need a guide to teahouse trek in Nepal. Buy a map in Kathmandu or Pokhara and figure it out. Guides take out some uncertainty from trekking. They will show you the way, remove leaches, help arrange TIMS/entrance permits, know where to stop for lunch, and interact with the guesthouses for lodging and food. However as with all things in Asia, they will likely have their best interest above yours when it comes to where you stay. Any of the numerous travel agencies strewn about the country can arrange one if you feel it necessary. I found independent trekking very invigorating as our itinerary was completely in our hands. We could stop or go as far as we wanted each day. It added an "amazing race" aspect to the trip.

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009
Nice, thanks again for the help! Glad to know it's possible to do it independently, which we would prefer. Guess we'll just have to avoid straying to far away from the marked paths :downs:

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel
You will not be alone on the trail, and it is really hard to get lost. Everything is well signed and there are many porters/other trekkers all over the place.

I LIKE COOKIE
Dec 12, 2010

Luffles posted:

Quote from the previous thread, but this was such good advice that I got the one year visa to Vietnam, went to visit; and also fell in love. I guess I also gave notice at my job and am booking flights to go back and live in Nha Trang. Good poo poo dude, thanks!

glad to hear it my man! you sound just like me, now get an apartment and find a local girl to move in with you, lol.

Vietnam really is the bomb

birds
Jun 28, 2008


Finishing up a Bhutan trip this October and arriving into Kathmandu at 12:40 PM. My return flight home leaves at 11:10 PM. Seems fine but I've read that this is a very tricky airport and delays are pretty common. Does anyone not recommend this connection? Assuming everything goes right, I should have at least a good 5-6 hours where I don't need to worry at all about the clock or rushing back to the airport.

Cheesemaster200
Feb 11, 2004

Guard of the Citadel

birds posted:

Finishing up a Bhutan trip this October and arriving into Kathmandu at 12:40 PM. My return flight home leaves at 11:10 PM. Seems fine but I've read that this is a very tricky airport and delays are pretty common. Does anyone not recommend this connection? Assuming everything goes right, I should have at least a good 5-6 hours where I don't need to worry at all about the clock or rushing back to the airport.

October is after the monsoon in Nepal, so flights will probably run on or close to schedule.

However, if the monsoon ends late or there is some weather, then cancellation of flights is not uncommon. I would be less worried about KTM and more worried about flying out of Paro. Most Himalayan airports (including Paro) are visual landing and takeoff, so if it is raining, foggy, or otherwise not clear out they will delay or cancel flights. Paro is also known as a very challenging airport for landing and takeoff, so I would presume weather delays and cancellations are more acute here.

You will probably be fine, but be aware that cancellation is a possibility. If I was planning the trip I would do a night in KTM as a buffer. You will have to spend $30 for a visa, but to be honest I would do the same thing if your flight is on time. 10 hours in the KTM airport sounds horrendous.

Let us English
Feb 21, 2004

Actual photo of Let Us English, probably seen here waking his wife up in the morning talking about chemical formulae when all she wants is a hot cup of shhhhh
Hello thread, quick question.

I manage an online quiz game that supports 30+ languages. We're expanding our South Asian languages and Punjabi is next on the list. We have large audiences in both Pakistan and India and we're not sure which writing system to use in order support both markets simultaneously. In the past we used Shahmukhi, but that was before we had Urdu support and some Indian friends of our employees are suggesting Gurmukhi would be more widely read. We will ask the translators we hire what their opinion is but, based on past experience, I expect their answers to be politically and nationalistically informed. Our content isn't political, it's just dumb horoscope-like quizzes that we'd like to see shared widely as possible. Any insight into how the language is used cross-nationally would be appreciated.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Yo, anyone alive ITT? :)

Jus bought some tickets to Sri Lanka (Mattala) via Abu Dhabi for mid-June. Seems like it should be just after the monsoon season, though not as dry as Jan-Feb. I'll have about 10 days, I'm sure it's not "enough" but I have another 2-week trip in May so I can't push my luck with vacations.

No specific plans yet, so any suggestions are welcome. Does anyone know what's the situation like on the ground now?

webmeister
Jan 31, 2007

The answer is, mate, because I want to do you slowly. There has to be a bit of sport in this for all of us. In the psychological battle stakes, we are stripped down and ready to go. I want to see those ashen-faced performances; I want more of them. I want to be encouraged. I want to see you squirm.
Oh hey I missed this post, sorry!

I'm not sure if you're still planning on doing the trip, but now is not a great time to be going to Sri Lanka. There's widespread demonstrations (which have frequently incurrent violent crackdowns from the police/army), a State of Emergency is in effect, along with a nationwide curfew. There's shortages of things like food, fuel, electricity and medicine as well, so yeah. The Australian government's advice isn't quite at "Don't Go" levels (and I realise that govt warnings are often overblown), but it's pretty close: https://www.smartraveller.gov.au/destinations/asia/sri-lanka

There's a large Sri Lankan expat community here in Aus, so the situation is on TV most nights and it doesn't look great to be honest. If you're still intending on going, probably the best spots to go are Galle (south-west coast), and then in the central highlands there's Galle and Nuwara Eliya.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

webmeister posted:

Oh hey I missed this post, sorry!

I'm not sure if you're still planning on doing the trip, but now is not a great time to be going to Sri Lanka. There's widespread demonstrations (which have frequently incurrent violent crackdowns from the police/army), a State of Emergency is in effect, along with a nationwide curfew. There's shortages of things like food, fuel, electricity and medicine as well, so yeah. The Australian government's advice isn't quite at "Don't Go" levels (and I realise that govt warnings are often overblown), but it's pretty close: https://www.smartraveller.gov.au/destinations/asia/sri-lanka

There's a large Sri Lankan expat community here in Aus, so the situation is on TV most nights and it doesn't look great to be honest. If you're still intending on going, probably the best spots to go are Galle (south-west coast), and then in the central highlands there's Galle and Nuwara Eliya.

No worries, thanks! It can be difficult to tell what's really happening because the international news, expats or upper-class IT dorks that are overrepresnted in english speaking can have a different perception of the situation. It does seem to be getting worse and not better though, and as much poo poo as I'm capable of dealing with, this might be a bit beyond what I'd want to go through. But it's not like I have anything to cancel so I guess I can just wait and see what happens in a month.

Edit, may 27: the Sri Lanka leg of my flight got cancelled, so that pretty definitely solves. The question is if I want to spend 10 days in the Emirates in the middle of June now...

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 05:57 on May 27, 2022

Capn Jobe
Jan 18, 2003

That's right. Here it is. But it's like you always have compared the sword, the making of the sword, with the making of the character. Cuz the stronger, the stronger it will get, right, the stronger the steel will get, with all that, and the same as with the character.
Soiled Meat
Resurrecting the thread because my wife and I have just booked (the flights, at least)a fairly last-minute trip to India next month! We'd been wanting to take a trip to Asia for awhile, and then my wife's friend invited us to his wedding in Jaipur, so here we are.

I'm happy to take any general advice anyone has, as we're not overly experienced travelers (first time anywhere in Asia), but I do have a couple specific questions.

Due to it taking almost 20 hours of flight time to get there, our inbound and outbound flights are at strange hours. Like, we arrive around 2am, and depart around 4am. Would it be possible to get to/from the airport (DEL) at those hours? Or should we book those nights at hotels super close to the airport (we were looking at the Aerocity area)? We only have 3 days in Delhi before heading to Jaipur, and I was hoping to stay in Connaught Place, but I really don't want to have a huge ordeal getting there at an odd hour, freshly off a long flight.

Is there a best/most modern train from Delhi to Jaipur? Our friend has offered to drive us both ways, but I can't in good conscience spend time in India without taking the train.

Saladman
Jan 12, 2010

Capn Jobe posted:

Due to it taking almost 20 hours of flight time to get there, our inbound and outbound flights are at strange hours. Like, we arrive around 2am, and depart around 4am. Would it be possible to get to/from the airport (DEL) at those hours? Or should we book those nights at hotels super close to the airport (we were looking at the Aerocity area)? We only have 3 days in Delhi before heading to Jaipur, and I was hoping to stay in Connaught Place, but I really don't want to have a huge ordeal getting there at an odd hour, freshly off a long flight.

I can't give any feedback on India in particular, but I was flying to/from Cairo-Zurich many times previously, and the flight there departs for Zurich at like 3am, and the flight from Zurich lands in Cairo at like 1am. Honestly for a super long flight where your sleep will be hosed up and your day ruined anyway, it is perfect for a chaotic boiling hot megacity: it is the only time of day that you will not immediately die while outside (in the 8 months of the year where it is summer, anyway), and it is also the only time of day when traffic is not godawful horrific.

Teriyaki Koinku
Nov 25, 2008

Bread! Bread! Bread!

Bread! BREAD! BREAD!
Nice thread. I did a semester Tibetan anthropology program in Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh, in northwest India in college and it was pretty awesome staying there. It is where the Tibetan Government-in-Exile and the Dalai Lama are based. I suggest adding it to the recommended destinations list.

Also, Delhi and Agra both kind of sucked but the Indian countryside is awesome. There was some streetside diced onion/fried crunch mix I remember tasting great. Chai Masala is always great too. Magic Masala Lay's chips are probably the best flavor on the planet.

Maybe include a travel advisory/tips for female solo travelers? I feel like India is a totally different experience for group/single male travelers vs female solo and worth talking about as a disclaimer.

Akratic Method
Mar 9, 2013

It's going to pay off eventually--I'm sure of it.

Any day now.

I don't know how much time you have aside from the wedding to go around other spots in India, but assuming you have some at least:

- I'll second Dharamsala! I was only there for a couple days but I really enjoyed it.

- It's also not too too far from Amritsar, where you can visit the Golden Temple (more properly, Sri Harmandir Sahib) and see the amusingly overwrought border gate closing ceremony just outside town at the India/Pakistan border. Worth a couple days.

-This one is well out of the way, but Jaisalmer is a lovely desert town with a castle, a lot of beautiful old merchant houses, and wonderful scenery around it.

Also, it probably doesn't really need said, but the Taj Mahal is really really worth going to. Agra is pretty awful for the most part, it's true, but the Taj is one of those places that is famous and celebrated and nonetheless not overrated at all.

Get into the country and see a stepwell if you can! They're pretty neat.

Akratic Method
Mar 9, 2013

It's going to pay off eventually--I'm sure of it.

Any day now.

Also, double posting because this has nothing to do with Capn Joe's question, but has anyone been to Nepal? Any suggestions? I'll be meeting a friend there, and I think she already has some plans, but I wouldn't mind ideas. We like trekking and wildlife. (I'm sure it's impossible to guarantee, but I'd love to see red pandas in the wild.) And I like cultural/historical sites/museums and can get away with dragging her to a couple.

Chikimiki
May 14, 2009

Akratic Method posted:

Also, double posting because this has nothing to do with Capn Joe's question, but has anyone been to Nepal? Any suggestions? I'll be meeting a friend there, and I think she already has some plans, but I wouldn't mind ideas. We like trekking and wildlife. (I'm sure it's impossible to guarantee, but I'd love to see red pandas in the wild.) And I like cultural/historical sites/museums and can get away with dragging her to a couple.

Was there in 2020 right before COVID. Really loved the country!
It's a hiker's paradise, you'll have no trouble finding trekking opportunities. Only issue is that some trails like Everest base camp or Annapurna can be crowded - and a guide is required now I think, you used to be able to do it on your own but the tourist mafia won :v:

Cultural stuff: there's tons in and around Kathmandu, (ie. Patan and Bhaktapur) though I couldn't tell you how it compares to India, never been. You can also go to Buddha's birthplace if you're interested in that kinda stuff.

For wildlife I've heard good things about the Chitwan national park but I haven't been either.

Obviously there's tons of more stuff to do, but those are basically the classic must-dos

Capn Jobe
Jan 18, 2003

That's right. Here it is. But it's like you always have compared the sword, the making of the sword, with the making of the character. Cuz the stronger, the stronger it will get, right, the stronger the steel will get, with all that, and the same as with the character.
Soiled Meat

Akratic Method posted:

I don't know how much time you have aside from the wedding to go around other spots in India, but assuming you have some at least:

- I'll second Dharamsala! I was only there for a couple days but I really enjoyed it.

- It's also not too too far from Amritsar, where you can visit the Golden Temple (more properly, Sri Harmandir Sahib) and see the amusingly overwrought border gate closing ceremony just outside town at the India/Pakistan border. Worth a couple days.

-This one is well out of the way, but Jaisalmer is a lovely desert town with a castle, a lot of beautiful old merchant houses, and wonderful scenery around it.

Also, it probably doesn't really need said, but the Taj Mahal is really really worth going to. Agra is pretty awful for the most part, it's true, but the Taj is one of those places that is famous and celebrated and nonetheless not overrated at all.

Get into the country and see a stepwell if you can! They're pretty neat.

Ah, those all sound amazing. I'd forgotten about the whole border ceremony, saw videos of it many years ago. Sadly I don't think we'll be able to make it up there. We'll only be in India for 2.5 weeks, and the wedding will consume almost 10 days of that. The good news is, the groom and his family have offered to shepherd us around, so they can at least take us over to see the Taj Mahal.

And I appreciate the other recs as well; thanks everyone!

Teriyaki Koinku
Nov 25, 2008

Bread! Bread! Bread!

Bread! BREAD! BREAD!

Akratic Method posted:

Also, it probably doesn't really need said, but the Taj Mahal is really really worth going to. Agra is pretty awful for the most part, it's true, but the Taj is one of those places that is famous and celebrated and nonetheless not overrated at all.

Yeah, passing through Agra is like jumping through hoops and hurdles of peddlers and human obstacles, but once you get into the Taj Mahal proper it really is a wonder to behold. The actual monument grounds are peaceful and sublime, just that everything outside of the perimeter is lovely.

e: Indian food is delicious too, just pack some Pepto-Bismol because it's a matter of if and not when you get diarrhea and stomach dysfunction adjusting to the local bacteria, especially if you eat the washed vegetables. And try not to eat lamb brain curry before leaving Delhi to board a return flight. I did that as a college student and ended up making GBS threads constantly for the whole 12-hour flight back home, to the point of making an angry line of passengers outside of the airplane bathroom stall. :v:

e2: Looking through Facebook at my old India pictures, I remember this being the weirdest thing I saw on the trip:





Well the sign didn't lie! And yes, that is a monkey wearing lipstick and a dress as a roadside attraction.

Teriyaki Koinku fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Mar 12, 2024

Banjo Bones
Mar 28, 2003

Planning a trip from BKK to Krabi... any recs for which islands to visit there? Good hotels or places to check out?

Akratic Method
Mar 9, 2013

It's going to pay off eventually--I'm sure of it.

Any day now.

Banjo Bones posted:

Planning a trip from BKK to Krabi... any recs for which islands to visit there? Good hotels or places to check out?

I think you wanted the Southeast Asia thread, since those are both Thailand, right? (BKK being Bangkok?)

Capn Jobe
Jan 18, 2003

That's right. Here it is. But it's like you always have compared the sword, the making of the sword, with the making of the character. Cuz the stronger, the stronger it will get, right, the stronger the steel will get, with all that, and the same as with the character.
Soiled Meat
Ugh, posting from India at the moment, super disappointed. We had a pretty good time when we were in Jaipur for our friends wedding, and were looking forward to sightseeing in Delhi our last few days. But we haven't been able to on account of touts.

We didn't even get 1 block from our hotel (Connaught Place) before we got swarmed. You can't ignore them, because then they follow you, and if you tell them to go away, they still follow you. We ended up taking a cab just a couple blocks over, hoping to dodge them, but got stopped literally getting out of the cab. We spent the next 30 minutes evading them, and noticed we were being tailed the whole time. Every one of them had the same script, too, trying to get us to go to this shopping mall that apparently has no sales tax. It was the same pattern: walk away, get a bit of distance, stop to get our bearings, immediately get approached again.

We decided to give up and called an Uber back to the hotel. Couldn't even do that without a guy appearing (we'd seen him tailing us a few minutes earlier). I said we were leaving, and he should go away, but he kept asking to see my phone so he could give me the address of this mall. I literally had to push him away.

So that was my experience sightseeing in Delhi. I expected to get hassled (we had our share of it in Jaipur), but this is on another level. I had hoped to explore the city and maybe spend some money, but apparently I can't do that. Oh well, at least our hotel is pretty nice.

Capn Jobe fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Apr 27, 2024

TychoCelchuuu
Jan 2, 2012

This space for Rent.
I live in Delhi and I'm an obvious foreigner (6 foot tall white dude) and the touts have never been so much of a hassle that I wasn't able to do whatever I wanted to do. Possibly you look very touristy or otherwise like an easy mark? I just ignore them and they give up pretty quickly.

Saladman
Jan 12, 2010

TychoCelchuuu posted:

I live in Delhi and I'm an obvious foreigner (6 foot tall white dude) and the touts have never been so much of a hassle that I wasn't able to do whatever I wanted to do. Possibly you look very touristy or otherwise like an easy mark? I just ignore them and they give up pretty quickly.

Yeah but presumably you avoid the touristy parts of the city? I lived in Cairo and it was totally fine walking around, unless I went anywhere within like two kilometers of the Giza pyramids.

TychoCelchuuu
Jan 2, 2012

This space for Rent.

Saladman posted:

Yeah but presumably you avoid the touristy parts of the city? I lived in Cairo and it was totally fine walking around, unless I went anywhere within like two kilometers of the Giza pyramids.
I mean I've definitely been to Connaught Place. That's where I got my last eye exam + new pair of glasses.

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Capn Jobe
Jan 18, 2003

That's right. Here it is. But it's like you always have compared the sword, the making of the sword, with the making of the character. Cuz the stronger, the stronger it will get, right, the stronger the steel will get, with all that, and the same as with the character.
Soiled Meat
I'd imagine I stand out as a tourist just by being white and looking at everything/taking photos, but I saw several people who looked like they came out of a dictionary entry for tourist (Hawaiian shirt, bucket hat, satchel) and they were doing fine. So I'm at a loss.

Capn Jobe fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Apr 29, 2024

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