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So after years of extremely basic car fixing skills (I changed headlight bulbs on a Civic once) I am confronted with two major issues: The check engine light in a 2011 CRV is on and replacing the gas cap didn't fix it. Codes: P2101 P0497 P0455 P0456 P145C P0456 P0455 P0456 (yes some codes repeat) 2) that weird sound when you need to change the brake pads is coming from the front left tire. Resources: I have like screwdrivers and ratchets. Metric and imperial. I have a 10mm socket. I can watch YouTube. So here we go AI, you're my only hope. I'm going to start with researching the check engine light codes and I need to buy some tools to work on the car. I assume I need a car jack, car stands, and maybe a impact wrench or impact driver or whatever they call it. Also a torque wrench to tighten wheel bolts to spec? I don't know. Current plan of action: clean out throttle electrical connections and throttle dohicky thing (Google recs) Change brake pads Try and figure out EVAP issue. Will research and report back. Here we fuckin go.
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Dec 21, 2019 17:09
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| # ? May 5, 2024 14:37 |
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Evap jobs suck. Do you live somewhere with salt on the roads?
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Dec 21, 2019 17:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Evap jobs suck. Do you live somewhere with salt on the roads? Yup! Northeast. However my beloved co-driver was apparently driving around with the "TIGHTEN GAS CAP" and engine light warning on for about a month before I found out about it. I replaced the gas cap which fixed all the check engine warnings (including P2101  ) but it came back on, again, about a month ago.
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Dec 21, 2019 17:18
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Anywhere with salt will eventually eat out the wiring harness to the fuel tank evap parts. It happens less on some cars, but some cars have a really dumb routing that exposes the connectors directly to it.
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Dec 21, 2019 17:23
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Okay so the CR-V weighs about 3500 lbs so I need a jack / stands that can handle 2+ tons right? This seems... Cheap? Not good? https://m.autozone.com/engine-and-v...LoaAkj5EALw_wcB
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Dec 21, 2019 17:35
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Those are probably about as good as anything else, you'll not be running then close to maximum. The main thing is to be careful about choice of which part of the car you're supporting with the stands (a lot of stuff is a dick about having insufficient points to get a jack AND stands under official points, but for the most part, the subframe areas where suspension arms mount to are a decent option), and you REALLY don't want to use a stand off vertical. Ensure they are on level, stable ground, preferably concrete, and watch out for them canting over as you lower the car onto them, particularly if you're having to do kne side then the other. Once the car's up on stands, give it a good shove about to check it's stable, and if ever removing wheels, put them underneath the car. If everything else fails, they could save your rear end from a dropping car.
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Dec 21, 2019 17:55
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I have a sloped driveway so probably going to have to do this curbside. (Do one wheel on the curbside, turn car around...)
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Dec 21, 2019 17:57
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Thanks for the advice so far guys, it wouldn't have occured to me to put the tire under the car that's a great idea in case of fuckups.
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Dec 21, 2019 17:58
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Edit: cordless impact wrench worth it, or just muscle up and use a tire iron
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Dec 21, 2019 19:42
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Smiling Jack posted:Edit: cordless impact wrench worth it, or just muscle up and use a tire iron So worth it. What's your budget?
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Dec 21, 2019 19:44
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EVERYWHERE 
meatpimp posted:So worth it. What's your budget? About $3-400 for right now including brake pads. Christmas and some unexpected expenses cleaned me out, and trying to stay on a monthly budget here.
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Dec 21, 2019 19:49
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A really good Cordless impact wrench may be my favorite tool purchase of all time, but I have 3 cars and a bike and work on them all the time. - if you are doing occasional work, a cheapish harbor freight or any brushed cordless will be fine. If you need some buy it for life poo poo, i would get a brushless dewalt, makita or Milwaukee- just prepare to spend at least $300 for the tool and battery. I have a dewalt XR 1/2 inch with the 5 amp hour battery and its absolutely loving unstoppable and busts through anything i throw at it. Brakes pads/rotors are going to be wicked cheap for the crv, get all your parts on rockauto.com - just dont forget brake parts lubricant! 2011 may already be a bit crusted up from rust/salt, so get some fluid film, pb blaster (or any other penetrant) and a little propane blowtorch if you aren’t scared. Watch every brake job video you can find on the south main auto youtube channel - bar none the best yt car repair channel - no bullshit. Chrisfix is also OK and has a few good tips but he does a lot of editing/cuts and its all a bit simplistic, but still worth a watch. Be prepared to take twice as much time (or more) as you expected to.
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Dec 21, 2019 21:15
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Basic level question here: if one of the wheels is making squeaky-brake-noise, I am going to do both front tires, but I might as well do all 4 tires right?
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Dec 21, 2019 21:46
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Voltage posted:
Thousand percent agree (on both points). It actually looks like SMA has a video or two about how to diagnose evap issues on Hondas.
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Dec 21, 2019 22:22
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Smiling Jack posted:Basic level question here: if one of the wheels is making squeaky-brake-noise, I am going to do both front tires, but I might as well do all 4 tires right? Just check the pad wear, the fronts will wear more than the rears (generally), and it can’t hurt to do all 4, but its not necessary at all if the pads are still thick.
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Dec 22, 2019 04:45
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Tool time: impact tools seem to range from 99$ drill bit looking things to $599 1/2 inch monsters. What am I looking for here? What can get the job done?
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Dec 23, 2019 23:27
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 its like a demented game of tertis under this hood, watching videos on how to remove poo poo to get to things
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Dec 24, 2019 17:26
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Smiling Jack posted:Tool time: impact tools seem to range from 99$ drill bit looking things to $599 1/2 inch monsters. What am I looking for here? What can get the job done? I have a cheap Ryobi that was $99 with battery and charger during a black friday deal last year (I think it's normally a $150 combo). The brushes don't seem to be installed right, so it always farts some sparks out of the vent ports, but it works pretty drat well. I'd trust Ryobi or Milwaukee branded stuff over Harbor Freight, and they both tend to go on sale often. It kinda works too well, I snapped bolts when installing new struts on my old car (this is why you use a torque wrench for some of this stuff...). The only times it hasn't been able to break something loose, I've wound up needing a 2+ foot long breaker bar.
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Dec 24, 2019 18:00
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Smiling Jack posted:
It always seems intimidating the first time, but once you’ve done it once for a given car everything usually makes sense.
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Dec 25, 2019 15:57
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I'd like to counter the impact idea with, that money's best spent elsewhere. An impact saves a bunch of time on specific jobs but not having one isn't going to stop you from doing things. The greenhorn hobbyist tool game is all about removing barriers. I didn't even get an impact until about the time of my first engine rebuild and while I use one as often as possible at work where every minute is billed time in my own garage I won't touch one for months at a time. Socket, breaker bar and torque wrench for the wheels (Chinese torque wrenches are pretty ok these days). Centric front rotors (Centric is a brand fyi, and the best bang/buck out there) for an '11 CRV are $30, might as well at that price so you don't have to worry about the pad slap squeaks. also, your purge valve is the cheapest component in the system so after a visual check of as much of the fuel/evap system as you can manage (pay extra attention to the filler neck) I'd locate that valve on the car and remove it for a couple of bench checks (most of which will involve a multimeter, so maybe pick one of those up. Apparently the free ones at Harbor Freight are good enough to get you in trouble so I'd start there) Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 07:03
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Picking up a manual for the CR-V tomorrow so I can find the fuckin solenoid. Holding off on the impact wrench for now, going with my existing lovely socket set and picking up a breaker bar and torque wrench, although that may change when I see if anything's on sale at Home Depot tomorrow.
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Dec 26, 2019 08:06
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Hey apparently you can find PDF service manuals online so that's cool.
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Dec 26, 2019 11:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It always seems intimidating the first time, but once you’ve done it once for a given car everything usually makes sense. Or at least you know where the poorly designed bits are and are prepared.
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Dec 27, 2019 04:40
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loving hell I can't get these tires off, even with a breaker bar.
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Dec 29, 2019 16:44
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man gently caress whoever put these tires on last also, even following instructions can't get to EVAP thingy, gotta watch some videos on removing the air filter holdy thing it's in the way, can't get to the bolts. Managed to drop the 10mm socket into the compartment but got it back out
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Dec 29, 2019 17:56
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loving hell we will pick this up again next weekend. Put everything I took out back at it started so that's good.
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Dec 29, 2019 18:53
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The 10mm curse strikes again, at least you recovered it.  one of usssssss
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Dec 29, 2019 19:54
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I don't know what fuckin clownboat put these wheels on last but it defeated me and a breaker bar pretty easily. I couldn't even get one of them to move, even after squirting some wd40 in there a few times. I managed to remove enough stuff to see the EVAP solenoid but I can't figure out how to remove the air filter box as per the Honda manual (I can't access one of the bolts) so gonna do more research, maybe pick up a $50 corded impact wrench from HF to get this fuckin thing off. AutoZone lent me a torque wrench and that brake cylinder tool thing but didn't have a impact wrench to borrow.
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Dec 29, 2019 21:12
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have you tried a cheater bar on the breaker bar?  e: like a 3 foot pipe taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 21:42
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What's the issue with the wheels? I assume you mean the wheels, rather than tyres specifically? Nuts too tight, or wheel seized onto the hub?
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Dec 29, 2019 23:15
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InitialDave posted:What's the issue with the wheels? I assume you mean the wheels, rather than tyres specifically? Nuts too tight. Fuckers won't move.
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Dec 29, 2019 23:22
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If you're careful, in a pinch you can lever the breaker bar against the ground, then very slowly drive the car to make it turn the nut as the wheel rotates. Forward for the right side, reverse for the left side. But got to take care not to have it spit itself off the nut and scratch the wheel etc.
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Dec 30, 2019 01:19
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 uh I might just borrow a impact wrench
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Dec 30, 2019 01:25
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Smiling Jack posted:
taqueso posted:have you tried a cheater bar on the breaker bar? this guy has the right idea, you put a chunk of pipe over the end of your breaker bar so it's longer and you got more leverage. an important 101 tactic to know, it's not dangerous or extreme at all. the "use the engine to torque it off" thing is hXc trailside repair stuff, see also welding with batteries
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Dec 30, 2019 01:30
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I don't have any 3 foot pipes lying around but we used that technique on recalcitrant fire hydrants back when I was a vollie.
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Dec 30, 2019 03:23
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You can actually use quite a few things. Rolled up cardboard tightly taped around the bar is one, I bet a thick roll of newpaper would work. Another is a wrench with a large hole on the end, you sorta cam the bar between the sides of the hole (sorry for the awful description). I've used a scrap table leg. Doing 20 lugnuts might be asking a lot from a roll of cardboard though.
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Dec 30, 2019 03:32
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If you're taking off a wheel, you have a jack. Jack handles work well for this.
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Dec 30, 2019 04:08
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If the jack handle doesn't work, 4' pieces of cast iron pipe are cheap at Home Depot/Lowe's/etc. Just make sure to get one large enough to fit over the end of the breaker bar. I've got two, because somehow I misplaced the first one for a few months one time.
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Dec 30, 2019 06:11
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owlhawk911 posted:the "use the engine to torque it off" thing is hXc trailside repair stuff Guy has nuts too tight for him to undo. He has no cheater bar or impact. You get in a pickle like that, sometimes you need to take a different approach. Experienced people are already aware of such techniques. A newbie won't be unless someone explains them to them.
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Dec 30, 2019 09:47
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| # ? May 5, 2024 14:37 |
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InitialDave posted:It's not, but if that's how you want to view things, carry on. sure, sure, schwangin stuck bolts off with the go pedal is good advice for beginners, whatever you say boss
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Dec 30, 2019 16:30
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