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owlhawk911 posted:sure, sure, schwangin stuck bolts off with the go pedal is good advice for beginners, whatever you say boss VVVV: I'm not going to poo poo this guy's thread up about this. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 16:50
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InitialDave posted:That'd be the "carry on" option, then. no YOU carry on 
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Dec 30, 2019 17:00
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Just got a "150$ brake pad change special" in the mail and threw it out swearing. Once it stops raining and I can work on the car again this will all pay off in the long run right guys
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Dec 30, 2019 17:13
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Smiling Jack posted:Just got a "150$ brake pad change special" in the mail and threw it out swearing. yes, imo doin your own stuff just feels good, hard to put a price on that part. and most mechanics are kinda predatory, like that flyer reads to me "pay us $150 to tell you you need at least $500 worth of brake work done", just a ploy to get you in the door i'm from a small town and started doing all my own car work when i saw my first car back on the street 3 months after a mechanic had told me it wasn't fixable and i could either give them $350 for "diagnostic labor" and come pick it up, or let them scrap it and they would generously forgive the bill. fuckin capitalists the more you know and more tools you have the easier stuff gets. i've got the whole crew in 90's japanese rides now, mostly imprezas, averaging ~$500 per and we have enough knowledge/gear that even stuff like engine swaps are nbd. all on gravel lots, only power tools are grinder/sawzall/drills/impact. a couple of the cars are actually even nice, i don't have a pic handy but there's a 95 toyota pickup i'm real proud of
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Dec 30, 2019 17:24
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What's a good resource for instructions on this poo poo aside from YouTube videos? The manuals assume a level of competence I'm not at yet. Haynes or something? I got stuck at "remove air filter compartment" because there's no way I can get to some of the bolts. Smiling Jack fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 17:39
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Smiling Jack posted:What's a good resource for instructions on this poo poo aside from YouTube videos? The manuals assume a level of competence I'm not at yet. Haynes or something? Here in AI has always worked for me. Take pictures, describe what you are looking at as well as you can. Remember terminology can change between manufacturers, knowing what you're looking at does is more important than what it is called. By air filter compartment, you mean where the engine air filter goes or the interior/cabin air filter?
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Dec 30, 2019 18:00
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youtube videos and forum posts are where it's at man. this is probably one of the best for general stuff, but there are manufacturer/model specific forums full of One Weird Tricks to deal with specific annoying stuff on different cars. honestly older stuff is usually better documented, because more people have had access to it for longer Honda-Tech CRV section: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-cr-v-element-156/ CRV Owner's Club https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/ i really wanted to find you a perfect link to a specific guide, but didn't see one in 5 mins  lot of guides and stuff in that second link thoughand getting terms right helps a *lot* with searching stuff up. it sounds like you're under the hood not in the car so try "air intake" or "airbox" cause you'll find a lot of stuff about the cabin air filter if your terms are that vauge
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Dec 30, 2019 18:10
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I'm under the hood. The plastic box that holds the engine air filter needs to be removed to access the EVAP part I need to get at. Will post pictures later.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:32
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Is the airbox still all together with the air filter in it? You'll most likely need to unclip the upper half from the lower half (it's probably clips, though some designs use screws), and remove it totally in order to get enough access to remove the lower half that's bolted in. Generally means disconnecting the tube/trunking that goes to the engine intake as well - probably best disconnecting it at the intake end rather than the airbox end, but it depends how it's held together. If there's any sensors integrated into the airbox or trunking they should just unplug. Lower half likely has a couple of bolts securing it, but also with an intake pipe that takes air from outside the engine bay. The latter may unclip fromt he airbox, or it may need to come out with it.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:45
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https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...=air-cleaner,,1 it looks like it's held on with little rubber nubs. yank on it.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:42
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 There's at least two bolts on this thing I had trouble getting to the back one. Will try again Weds.
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Dec 31, 2019 03:45
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This shows how to get it out, the guy has a really long socket extension, I don't know how long you actually need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnxj612rij0
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Dec 31, 2019 04:19
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taqueso posted:This shows how to get it out, the guy has a really long socket extension, I don't know how long you actually need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnxj612rij0 What search terms did you use because ffs I was looking all over for this video Edit: this air box is in a different spot than my 2011 Honda Smiling Jack fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 05:17
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I had a terrible time finding a 2011 video but then I saw a post that said 200something through 201something were the same. So my bad on that. Anyway it should be pretty similar, take a picture of the bolt you can't reach.
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Dec 31, 2019 22:14
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2011 is a changeover year, which is always a loving nightmare hunting stuff down after the fact due to the whole registration year vs model year thing. OP, post a good photo looking down on your engine bay and we'll try to help you.
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Dec 31, 2019 22:38
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At work right now, will spend 2020 doing car poo poo. Got a $60 corded impact tool / socket set at harbor freight get hosed stuck lugnuts.
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Dec 31, 2019 22:55
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InitialDave posted:2011 is a changeover year, which is always a loving nightmare hunting stuff down after the fact due to the whole registration year vs model year thing. Ah gently caress, that didn't occur to me time to check the vin or something I guess?
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Dec 31, 2019 22:56
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Smiling Jack posted:Ah gently caress, that didn't occur to me time to check the vin or something I guess? If the rear side window for the cargo area curves down to a flat bottom, it's "up to 2011", if it has a kick up at the back of the window, it's "from 2011".
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Dec 31, 2019 23:01
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Smiling Jack posted:Ah gently caress, that didn't occur to me time to check the vin or something I guess? As previously mentioned, your vehicle will have some weird transitional poo poo going on. On a more philosophical note: think about learning to work on your own vehicle in context of... your own work. Let's say your job has a lot of bullshit procedure to get important things done. Gotta do it to get where you need to go, otherwise you'll paint yourself into a corner. That's kinda like taking the entire air-box/intake off to reach anything on the top of the engine. It becomes second nature to think, "Okay, seems easy enough once I get everything out of the way". Patience and planning goes very far if you are working for yourself. Doing just front brakes, for instance, pays for itself vs. taking it to a shop. Now you have the know-how and tools to get not only that job done, but other things as well. Paying yourself all the way.
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Dec 31, 2019 23:23
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Smiling Jack posted:At work right now, will spend 2020 doing car poo poo. Don't be surprised when it still won't get the nuts off. Seriously, use a long metal pipe from your jack or pick up a pipe at home depot. Sometimes you just need extra leverage (length of pipe) to bust some stuff off. And then stand on a 4' pipe, as well.  Torque is a measure of distance x force, so 4' pipe + goon lbf is going to be a lot more torque than the 200ish ft-lb of whatever cheap wrench you bought. Tire shop goons rarely use torque wrenches for lugs, just an air gun. Get a torque wrench instead of the impact, IMO. The ones are HF are decent and cheap. Seat Safety Switch posted:Anywhere with salt will eventually eat out the wiring harness to the fuel tank evap parts. It happens less on some cars, but some cars have a really dumb routing that exposes the connectors directly to it. Context is important here. For hosed wiring you'll generally see circuit DTCs ("high" or "low" voltage) before you see these performance codes. Guessing he has a hole in one of the lines or something disconnected entirely.
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Jan 2, 2020 15:07
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 will report back Saturday
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Jan 2, 2020 19:42
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Can vouch for those sockets holding up for DIY stuff pretty well, no clue on the impact tho (I wouldn't expect it to last long, given HF's track record with power tools). The DIY shop I use even has mostly HF sockets (the speciality stuff is mostly Snap On, I think their air tools are mostly HF).
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Jan 2, 2020 20:21
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HF impact sockets are fine, at least the chromoly ones that I've been using forever. I ruined one of them using it to beat the poo poo out of a wheel bearing, but I can't blame the socket for that.
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Jan 2, 2020 20:26
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So, shits been going on but: Still didn't manage to replace the EVAP thingy, however I did replace the air filter while I was under there and also managed to disconnect and reconnect the lines to the EVAP thingy while trying to get it off without removing the air filter box and ... The check engine light went off and hasn't come back on since... So... Brake still doing intermittent squeaky thing so gonna replace the pads soon anyway but yay no check engine light?
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Jan 16, 2020 04:31
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If you are not using 20% off on every item at Harbor Freight and getting a free LED light with each item (or multimeter or batteries or a tarp during good months) you are doing it wrong. Get a rubber mallet. They are cheap and you can "hit" the ratchet or breaker bar to knock the lug nuts off. First thing (and I know you probably already tried this) in this day and age is google "how to do X on Y" and see if there is a youtube video. If you have some string or weedeater string or whatever that is good to tie the calipers up out of the way when doing brakes. Remember to "grease" the parts you are supposed to, you can just buy a little $1 packet of it at the parts counter.
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Jan 16, 2020 19:38
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A deadblow mallet might be better than a rubber one. They're hollow and filled with steel or lead shot, with a plastic/rubber outer. Tend to have more weight than a rubber mallet, and don't bounce when you hit stuff.
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Jan 19, 2020 01:34
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Yep, a deadblow works great.
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Jan 19, 2020 05:04
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Update: I have not been able to remove a single lug nut even with the impact wrench.
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Jan 19, 2020 19:06
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You need leverage.Suburban Dad posted:Don't be surprised when it still won't get the nuts off. Use a 1/2" drive, but post the results if try 3/8" anyways.
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Jan 19, 2020 19:10
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Off to get a three foot pipe from home depot
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Jan 19, 2020 19:34
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these loving things have already defeated a 25 inch breaker bar
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Jan 19, 2020 19:36
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You've hopefully now learned why many tire shops and otherwise suck when it comes to lug torque. get a loving pipe
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Jan 19, 2020 19:37
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might get a five foot pipe
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Jan 19, 2020 19:37
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There is literally no pipe that is too long in this scenario, so go nuts. One helpful trick AI taught me a billion years ago is to prop a jack under the head of the socket wrench, so as you're wailing and twisting on it the socket & wrench are being supported and held square rather than trying to twist off of the nut. *E* I did once break the crank bolt on a Honda bike engine at uni after the TA swore up and down it was a left hand thread, and that is the extent of my Honda wrenching experience, so maybe take my pipe advice with caution.
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Jan 19, 2020 20:06
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If it's that tight, be aware you may well shear the head of the breaker bar.
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Jan 19, 2020 21:10
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InitialDave posted:If it's that tight, be aware you may well shear the head of the breaker bar. Well, we are gonna find out in a few. Buying the pipe now.
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Jan 19, 2020 21:20
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Lugnuts off. Wheel stuck.
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Jan 19, 2020 22:02
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Did you buy that deadblow hammer yet? 
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Jan 19, 2020 22:05
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Smiling Jack posted:Lugnuts off. Wheel stuck. Brute force usually works. Put a little copper grease or similar on the centre spigot when refitting.
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Jan 19, 2020 22:13
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Tires off, brake things appear to be fused to discs
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Jan 19, 2020 22:28
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