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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 15, 2022

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rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Yeah, makes sense. Try to jumper it and see if the problem goes away. You can’t de-pin the weatherpack at the alt, so the 12v field current on the other pin will need to come from somewhere else.

It would also make sense that the TCM could be freaking out about being fed 19v. Not for sure about that one.

If you had it disconnected than the alternator should have been going balls to the wall 19v since it sees no voltage on K72. The PCM would be trying to slow it down by supplying 12v. You had it running or just key on engine off?

rdb fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Mar 26, 2020

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Krakkles posted:


Battery -> Body ground (G100):



I might be missing something (plus I don't think it's your issue), but what's that wire-looking thing that looks like it goes under the painted body sheet metal?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 15, 2022

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

All those wires coming off of the positive terminal are fused nearby, right? :ohdear:

With so many accessories, you may want to add a fuse block to tidy it up, but that's something to deal with after the charging fuckery is figured out.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 15, 2022

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 15, 2022

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?

Krakkles posted:

Digging through this wiring harness has ... not clarified things.

I figured most likely issues would occur along the sides of the engine bay, and it's pretty unlikely that something broke inside the main 2" bundle running along the upper firewall with very little anywhere near it.

With that in mind, I started on the PCM side, and tore that thing up:

Zero damage to that or any other wire. I was pretty hopeful around when I was unwrapping G106, because there's a bunch of grounds right there, if any were messed up, that'd be a prime candidate - but they all look fine.

I started from the alternator plug, then, and tore into the other side:

The alternator plug looks crusty (I have a replacement for this ready to splice in):

I also thought it looked super plausible that this bundle ran through all the custom wiring (separately wrapped) on the left side, but no wear anywhere. Then I found a splice in the wire:

Nope. Looks fine. Although, where the gently caress is it going? This plug:

... which is capped off, not plugged into anything, and doesn't appear on the wiring diagram.
Upside, I had a helper working on it with me:

Unfortunately she knows less about wiring than I do, but WE'RE GOING TO LEARN TOGETHER.

So, at this point, do I tear into that 2" bundle across the top of the firewall, or am I chasing the wrong rabbit hole? Does anyone know what the hell that plug could be?

I thought the alternator plug even looked pretty likely, but I can't figure out how it would still be grounding out when it's unplugged (I measured the voltage and got the incorrect 0.6v with it unplugged.). Maybe just replace it and see.

That mystery plug, can you pull it apart? It looks almost like a fuse holder or something.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
It looks to me like a Ford-style spout connector you would disconnect when adjusting ignition timing.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 15, 2022

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Hows it run with that disconnected?

Dark green/orange is an alternator wire.

Well, wait, the cap doesn’t bridge those pins?

E: there is a whole bunch of dust in there. I wonder if they are bridged somehow.

rdb fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 29, 2020

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Oh hey how have I not noticed this thread before?

Sifting through the diagram that looks like it's the connector for an Evap Leak Detection Pump:



If that thing is just a rubber plug and not some noise suppressor like I thought, at least. Wiring colors match up.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





This is the FSM I used for that:
https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/2000-service-manual.pdf

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I see I've been beaten - but that green-orange wire is just the output from the asd relay, it powers half the stuff in the engine bay. Apparently the ldp is one of those things, I know it runs the injectors, field winding, ignition coil, etc.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
That's likely marked generator sink, if they're following the same terminology. The regulator in the ECU ground side switches it, the other side gets constant 12v from the wire you've identified.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Wow, that would do it alright.

I don’t really drink/smoke much of anything. No worries here, keep your cash.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Repair the wire first before claiming victory. :v:


Glad you found something though and hope that it fixes it.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Krakkles posted:

Update: HOPE RESTORED.




Um, sort of, anyway.

I found the problem.



Plug C1 and C2 cross over the bellhousing at the back of the engine, along with the fuel injection harness and probably some other stuff.

I'm impressed it was running as well as it was, frankly.

I'm now taking recommendations on what type of wire to use (I'd like the repair to last another 200k miles, ideally a lot longer). My plan is to cut out the broken section, use heat seal crimps to add in some high quality wire and extend it enough that I can run it through a bracket (also to be worked out) which will keep it up off the engine.

Also, I'm unsure who should get credit for this. rdb definitely put the time in, stevobob first said harness, and kastein pointed to the right part of the harness. I welcome public opinion, and if the three of you are amenable to it, I'd love to get you each a gift card to some sort of alcohol outlet appropriate to your area, or a donation to a charity of your choice? doesn't have to be alcohol, just feels celebratory
Congrats. Type E wire gets my nod. Tell me the gauge and color, I may have what you're looking for. Heatsink crimp butt splices?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Krakkles posted:

Looks like this also goes by MIL-W-16878? I'm finding results but nothing on the sites I know (waytek, to be honest).

Thank you - I'm probably not going to match colors, unfortunately - there's probably 35 or so wires running through here, mostly 18g and some 14g, but all different colors. My general plan is that because this will be a short run with appropriate colors at either end, I'll do it all in black, and mark/build access to either end of that. It's not ideal, but it's more important to get the wires repaired and up out of that area.

So, I mean, if you want to drop me a few feet of black (or, honestly, whatever, I'll heatshrink all of this, too) 18g and significantly less 14g (I think 3/35 are 14, the rest are all 18), I'd definitely take you up on that.

For crimps, my plan is these 3M adhesive lined heat shrink butts.

Thank you either way :)
Yup, MIL-W-16878 /4 NEMA HP-3
It's great wire. Spendy, but great. Teflon jacket, silver plated conductors, finely stranded, and rated to 260°C. I'll put together a package, I keep all my cutoffs: https://youtu.be/p7jbtIbZKwQ

Not sure if I've got 14G, but I'll check. I certainly have 16-26g. You could go all Mil-Spec and do it all in white. :discourse:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
Whoa just found this thread. I should really come to SA more often.

To honor Sir Krakkles, here he is last month helping me reassemble a new to me 5.3 LS.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

My suggestion would have been a run to the junkyard with a pair of cable loppers and just gank the entire length of that part of the harness and use that for your wire source but im cheap and wagon wiring harnesses are a terrific source of wire for cheap!

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

...

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Krakkles posted:

You should!

I love it. My daughter was asleep by the time I saw this, but I can't wait to show her, she'll love this.

Seconded. Also, this might be one of the most AI images in a while - LS, DSM, and a stack of rackmount servers, all in one shot.

Krakkles posted:

This is definitely the biggest wiring repair I've tackled so far - I'm basically comfortable with it, but I definitely spent a bit too much time staring into the abyss of that picture last night.

In your shoes I would be very tempted to pull the harness out of the Jeep entirely to do the work, given how many splices you have to make. Might not be a time saver overall but could contribute greatly to your sanity.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 15, 2022

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I wasn't sure if I'd actually mentioned that and was kicking myself for not warning you until you said I had :v:

No worries on the alcohol, I barely drink at this point. Donate it to your favorite charity if you feel like you should. I've seen dozens of harnesses fail in that spot BTW - when you do your harness repair, make the section you replace long enough that the splices are in the fixed sections of harness on top of the engine and on the firewall.

stevobob
Nov 16, 2008

Alchemy - the study of how to turn LS1's into a 20B. :science:


What a hell of a find, I've located a few similar looking culprits and the immediate gratification and confidence that moment inspires is indescribable. Glad you found it. As for credit, anyone could suggest a harness problem - it's kind of catch-all and that was pretty much my only contribution because i got here first :v: if votes matter then charitable donation, absolutely - I tend to lean towards "your local dog rescue/no-kill shelter" as my suggested recipient.

I'd also second Ferremit's suggestion of just lopping off that leg of harness and splicing the whole thing in, which will make for one splice per wire instead of two after having spliced in a mismatched wire. I understand your preference to maintain social distance though and applaud your willingness to dive in and tackle it. It may seem slightly daunting, but I'm glad you said you're basically comfortable with it - think of it as just a wire splice, which you've done a million more times - but a bunch of em. Piece of cake. Continuity check as you go if you get antsy about anything.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Most donors in the junkyard are likely going to have some level of harness abrasion and cracking there, it's just a problematic spot on these Jeeps. Fixing it with mil spec wire is arguably the best route since it's better suited to the environment it'll be in. And making the harness a bit longer there and routing it to minimize flexure from the drivetrain moving on the mounts and rubbing the harness against things will make it live a lot longer.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 15, 2022

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
That amount of abrasion is a bit abnormal, but I normally see them get cracked and broken there. They just jump the harness straight from the firewall to the top of the head with like 6-8 inches to flex and it's a bad idea. The GM "let like 2 feet of harness droop down the driver side of the engine and back up to the fender" plan looks sloppier, but it's likely better for the harness.

E: I think the abrasion is because the harness may be misrouted. Every 4.0 XJ I've ever seen has it on the driver's side of the head, that looks like the passenger side. So either I'm picturing this wrong, or you found another problem point I don't know about, or it's misrouted by a previous owner.

kastein fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Apr 2, 2020

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 15, 2022

stevobob
Nov 16, 2008

Alchemy - the study of how to turn LS1's into a 20B. :science:


Krakkles posted:

In a moment of genius, I donated to my local shelter without checking that they were actually no-kill, because I thought they were. Turns out they're not. I'm searching to find an actual no-kill and will match the donation there, and hopefully this lets this one keep some alive a little longer also. Hopi likes your suggestion:


Thank you for this. I like Hopi. :3:

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

Krakkles posted:

In a moment of genius, I donated to my local shelter without checking that they were actually no-kill, because I thought they were. Turns out they're not. I'm searching to find an actual no-kill and will match the donation there, and hopefully this lets this one keep some alive a little longer also. Hopi likes your suggestion:


Best Friends Animal Society would be an amazing organization to donate to. Their goal by 2025 is to have all of the US as no-kill.

https://bestfriends.org/

Also once this quarantine is over, if that ever happens, I need to finally meet Hopi. She's so big!

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 15, 2022

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