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I see I've been beaten - but that green-orange wire is just the output from the asd relay, it powers half the stuff in the engine bay. Apparently the ldp is one of those things, I know it runs the injectors, field winding, ignition coil, etc.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:47
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 05:35 |
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That's likely marked generator sink, if they're following the same terminology. The regulator in the ECU ground side switches it, the other side gets constant 12v from the wire you've identified.
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Mar 30, 2020 03:28
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I wasn't sure if I'd actually mentioned that and was kicking myself for not warning you until you said I had  No worries on the alcohol, I barely drink at this point. Donate it to your favorite charity if you feel like you should. I've seen dozens of harnesses fail in that spot BTW - when you do your harness repair, make the section you replace long enough that the splices are in the fixed sections of harness on top of the engine and on the firewall.
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Apr 2, 2020 02:36
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Most donors in the junkyard are likely going to have some level of harness abrasion and cracking there, it's just a problematic spot on these Jeeps. Fixing it with mil spec wire is arguably the best route since it's better suited to the environment it'll be in. And making the harness a bit longer there and routing it to minimize flexure from the drivetrain moving on the mounts and rubbing the harness against things will make it live a lot longer.
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Apr 2, 2020 04:32
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That amount of abrasion is a bit abnormal, but I normally see them get cracked and broken there. They just jump the harness straight from the firewall to the top of the head with like 6-8 inches to flex and it's a bad idea. The GM "let like 2 feet of harness droop down the driver side of the engine and back up to the fender" plan looks sloppier, but it's likely better for the harness. E: I think the abrasion is because the harness may be misrouted. Every 4.0 XJ I've ever seen has it on the driver's side of the head, that looks like the passenger side. So either I'm picturing this wrong, or you found another problem point I don't know about, or it's misrouted by a previous owner. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Apr 2, 2020 |
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Apr 2, 2020 06:09
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Worth noting, if you intend to do harness work often, I recommend dry vinyl harness tape rather than electrical tape. It clings well if wrapped tightly but doesn't leave goop behind, you use friction tape to hold the loose end down. That's good friction tape, I'll have to pick some up. If you use electrical tape, use the best stuff you can get your hands on or it'll turn into a melty goopy mess, especially in an engine bay with chemicals and heat. 3m super33 is pretty good.
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Apr 12, 2020 16:29
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Goonfleet is inquisitive about your spacecraft repairs
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May 13, 2020 13:30
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You aren't gonna find another that's in better shape. They're basically all like that. Hell, when I did the custom harness merge for Sandbaggers YJ EFI swap in 2012, the harness I used was like that.
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Jun 7, 2020 03:33
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The only way to really fix that is going to be to find the crimp pins for the connectors on that section of the loom (shouldn't be super hard, most of them are very common) and depin all the connectors, rebuild that section from scratch using the fsm schematics, then reloom it. Which honestly isn't a bad idea. But given that I only ever see breaks on a few spots I don't think I'd bother. Spots I see breaks: - right at the back of the cts plug - right at the back of the TPS and IAT plugs - the upstream O2 harness sometimes gets crunchy Plus the area you are already fixing where it bridges from the engine to firewall. That's about it. I've literally never seen a conductor break inside the plastic raceway that clips to the head bolts. It gets metamorphosed from wire-limestone into wire-marble, sure, but it never seems to actually cause harm, just frustration when doing harness work.
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Jun 8, 2020 00:39
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I use a regular old ratchet crimper. It does damage the heatshrink a little but not too badly. I picked up an astro 9477 crimper that I love for many things including regular rby. I haven't tried it on heatshrink butt splices but they do make an A1 quick change die for it too that's designed for rby heatshrink splices, though I've only bought the H6 and H7 dies for it (besides the five sets of dies it comes with) so far.
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Jun 8, 2020 05:30
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They look like mine too. The astro one was suggested to me by a guy on sloppy mechanics. I haven't had reason to use anything but my h6 and h7 dies so far which work really nicely, I used them to make a maf adapter cable to plug a truck maf into my van harness. Hoping I can find dies for all the other stuff I do, it's nice not having to unscrew and rescrew the bolts holding the dies in like on a regular ratchet crimper.
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Jun 8, 2020 06:52
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You can actually damage the converter lockup clutch by doing it in first, though it'll drive like poo poo and remind you to unlock it before that happens probably. Personally I would lock it out in first and maybe second anyways, and auto unlock it when shifting and brake signal active, but I didn't design that unit. Should be easily added in firmware if he wants to. The XJ uses a completely different trans control scheme from the TJ, oddly - on the TJ the PCM controls the trans using the governor pressure sensor and governor pressure solenoid to pwm modulate how much fluid gets to the governor on what's essentially an 80s non electronic 3 speed auto that Chrysler made worse, somehow. On the XJ, they use a 4 speed overdrive aisin rated for 450ftlb (with an engine that puts out 235...) With it's own dedicated TCU and the ECU talks to it over the CCD bus, but doesn't really tell it anything, the TCU has all its own sensors except the TPS and brake light switch, it monitors the signals from the ECU sensors for those. You can cut the CCD bus and everything will still work, it just throws codes P1694 and P1698 because the ECU and TCU miss each other. And the XJ and TJ ECU/PCM are the same hardware, just with different firmware. Dunno why they did it so differently, but at least the XJ got the good transmission...
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May 3, 2021 12:07
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 05:35 |
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, I think you guys have me convinced. On 97+ there should be a signal for 4th as well. 96- NSS you are correct, no signal for 4th.
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May 3, 2021 18:41
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