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Hey, e-bike thread, neat! A subject dear to me from a few pages back:Voodoofly posted:Is there an easy way to charge the battery back up to 80? I have installed these things on all my chargers: https://www.amazon.com/SVR1000-Single-Phase-Overvoltage-Undervoltage-Protection/dp/B087T8HYDT/ They're only rated to be powered by up to 48V but 52 don't seem to hurt them, so they can be powered by the same voltage they monitor and break in most cases. I've used them for years and none have broken yet. Programming the cutoff voltage is easy and fast enough. On one of my chargers I had to mess around with a switched connection to backfeed the relay from the battery for a moment in order for it to wake up since that particular charger doesn't give out enough voltage to power the relay until it senses it's connected to a battery, but the other ones were super easy to install. You can just hook them up to the appropriate male and female connectors and use them inline with the charge cable intact if you don't want to cut your charger up. The last time I bought some from German amazon I got them for like $10 each, so it's likely there's a better deal around than the one I linked.
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May 15, 2021 10:17
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Nessus posted:I did notice it seemed very light. Proper transformers with lots of heavy iron and copper wire isn't commonly used for these kind of things anymore. It's all switched power supplies which is just some electronics, some kind of heat management for those components and a box to house it all. It's not like the part inside the battery casing is big or heavy either. That part is called the BMS and is just some more electronics that manages the balance charging which is necessary when you have lithium cells in series, as well as some other battery protection functions like voltage and temperature limits.
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May 15, 2021 14:46
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Cugel the Clever posted:
Slipping is very much a thing though. Streets can get really slick for a variety of reasons. First rain on tarmac after hot weather? Oils can sweat out of the road surface, and before the water has time to flush it away it can get reeeeally slippery for a bit. Layers of pollen this time of year can be slick when wet. Mud, pea gravel, wet leaves, wet painted lines, manhole covers etc. - there's all sorts of things making grip lovely that two-wheeling people need to be aware about. Also your tires could be poo poo. Some tires are bad in the wet due to lovely rubber compounds for the purpose. If so you should buy other tires. Also brand new tires are normally pickled in some kind of oil in order to arrive to the customer looking shiny and fresh, and this coating needs to be carefully worn away before the tires will perform nominally. It's good practice to brake check your grip level if you are suspicious, whether you are driving or riding. On a bike it's safest to do with the rear brake.
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May 20, 2021 05:46
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 I did a little thing on my long-suffering electric bakfiets yesterday. New rod ends for the steering linkage. My old stainless heim joints lasted for many years but had gotten too much mechanical slop so I thought I'd try automotive style rod ends with rubber boots and see how long they last. Unfortunately I ordered ones with a finer thread pitch where they screw into the linkage, so I had to chop the old nuts off and weld new ones on. The factory solution was always poo poo and I cut that off the link many years ago. With the new, tight and quiet linkage in place it became apparent that my hub motor bearing are shot and need replacing. I have a set of nice SKF sealed bearings laying around meant for my last hub motor that got run over by a car, and with a bit of luck this hub (that I have never opened before) uses the same bearings. As much as I enjoy the excellent snow clearing and brine spraying on my commute route which provides speed and safety, the salt isn't kind to metal. Future plans for the bakfiets include a major overhaul. New paint, new sheet metal (there's a Danish bike shop that has fenders and chain guard for these veteran bikes) a total rewire of all electric bits and a new box of fiberglass laminated lightweight plywood as well as a new kickstand.  Some of the suffering of the bakfiets. This is what killed the old motor, rim and the original fork.
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Jun 3, 2021 10:49
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It wasn't super dramatic honestly, very low speed collision where I had come to a complete stop, though not in time so part of the bike was poking out into the intersection where an oblivious driver slowly ran over the front end during a turn without even looking. I got paid to do the repairs and the new hub and fork are better than what I had before so it wasn't all bad in retrospect, though I admit I was shook and angry when I took that picture. Good news for now is that I indeed had suitable wheel bearings at home. Bad news is that it isn't super easy to completely disassemble the hub and get both the old bearings out. Things are crusty. I'll have to gather my courage and maybe build a support thingy before I bring out a bigger hammer so I can hopefully fix this. I hope to avoid using the torch since the paint isn't half bad but you gotta do what you gotta do.  E: There's the problem. Extremely sloppy, I can't believe I didn't notice it before it got this bad but the slop in the steering linkage masked it I guess. The other bearing felt fine but I replaced both. Fire and ice made them slip in and out nicely. The steering feels super solid now for the first time in a long time, but there's some drag from the new rod ends that I don't quite like. I'll get used to it and hopefully it goes away with a bit of wear. Invalido fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 17:06
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Your trailer is fantastic. I've thought about building something similar many years ago but never went beyond a few sketches.CopperHound posted:Implement an intuitive reverse button or a brake lockout because pushing a trailer with surge brakes backwards is hard. I got curious how it's possible to reverse with surge brake equipped car trailers which are common here. I found this video. I'm sure you know how it works already but I sure didn't: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwYRgFA2vBc Since you have drum brakes it should at least be possible in theory to implement such a reverse mechanism, but I'm sure it's not an easy thing to make work right.
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Jun 4, 2021 08:26
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I bought a used e-bike for my mother-in-law some years back, five maybe? She's not in the greatest shape and lives on top of a sizeable hill when she's in country. I got it very cheap considering the market at the time. Since then it has needed a new battery. New cells in the old battery case and it's like new. It's a very basic bike, just three speeds, coaster brake and manual throttle combined with pedal sensor. She loves it though and goes on pretty long trips with it. She pretty much only uses the motor for hill climbs so she gets great range even with the small battery (something like 11Ah 36V IIRC). Now she's out of country for several months so my wife uses the bike for local errands since she finds it more practical than her hybrid. Wife wanted a box on the back so I made a hackjob with lots of zipties and an antique plywood beer case that I we had laying around. It's a bit too big IMO but it's what she wanted and seems to work well enough for light loads.
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Jun 14, 2021 09:01
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 Just a post to state that electric cargobikes rule. I needed a single board and have misplaced my roof rack so I did this instead. That's 4.2 meters right there  I've also done a few trash hauls to the recycling center. Might do one more tomorrow.
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Jul 13, 2021 21:57
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evil_bunnY posted:Turning any errand into "going for a spin, BRB" is the loving best. It is the best. Pretty much everything I do with my e-bikes could be accomplished by car but there would be no joy involved. Also way less convenient to find parking.
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Jul 18, 2021 20:12
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learnincurve posted:You can extend your battery for years and years by keeping it between 20% and 80% something like 3000 cycles before it starts to lose efficiency iirc, you just got to let it balance by going to 100% once in a while. It's this. Baby your batteries a little and you'll slow down their degradation to a remarkable degree. Don't fully charge unless you need the range, charge early and often. Don't store them at 100% if you can avoid it. Don't charge or discharge a freezing cold battery if you can avoid it. I have a bunch of these: https://www.amazon.com/Acogedor-Monitoring-Over-Voltage-Under-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07R8ZV65J/ They're easy enough to install on an existing normal charger to limit the charge to a pre-set voltage. It's such an important function for the life of the pack that it should be mandatory that all LiPo chargers should have the necessary circuitry built in, preferably with a simpler U.I. than those relays I use. Whenever I need to buy a new battery pack I think that it's time to build that nickel strip spot welder from the parts I've already gathered and rebuild my own drat packs like a proper greybeard, but since I got serious about battery babying them I haven't had to replace any.
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Aug 21, 2021 08:24
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Pitre posted:Interesting device. Looking at it, it will open the charging circuit if the voltage either gets to a maximum voltage to prevent overcharge OR a minimum voltage to prevent deep draining? I've only used them to limit the charging voltage but they do indeed have lots of menu settings including modes for undervoltage protection. They need power to function though, so I'm not sure what would happen if the relay cut the voltage that also drives it, and if you don't wire it that way you'd have a small permanent drain from the relay itself, I have no idea how big a drain but I could measure it if you're interested, or maybe the manual says. This model needs to be driven with 24-48 volts DC (which is convenient for charging my e-bikes since it's driven by the same voltage it monitors and switches, so if you have a 12v solar system this particular model probaly won't work for your application. There are other models optimised for other applications (My 48v chargers actually put out 53v or so which these units seems to handle without problems but a 72v system might kill it unless you have a different voltage to drive it from somewhere else other than the charger/bike battery.
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Aug 25, 2021 07:56
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Queadlunn posted:
Apart from what copperhound says with extra impact protection that pack will work just fine, provided it has a form factor that works for you. There are only so many ways to array 18650 cells conveniently. I've bought a few similar packs over the years and put into diy plywood boxes that goes into the bakfiets. In my opinion it's worth it to spend a little extra on name brand cells since those have fewer quality control issues. If it doesn't say what cells they use it's gonna be whatever chinese cells were cheapest that day (they still might even though they claim to use Samsung/LG/panasonic but I've never been scammed this way). If just one cell out of around 100 or whatever fails prematurely you don't lose 1% battery capacity but some multiple of that depending on voltage etc, but it's gonna be a 10% hit or more (higher voltage pack is worse), plus the good cells in parallel to the bad one are now under extra strain and will probably fail faster too.
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Sep 28, 2021 05:45
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Depending on your ESC odds are your bike will work fine with a 48v pack too, which should increase the selection quite a bit. You'll lose a bit of performance though. Have you checked on Aliexpress btw? Last time I shopped from there the selection was huge. Otherwise I'm sure some spot welding shop would be happy to build you a custom specified pack if you manage to communicate your needs effectively. It's not hard to do a one-off if you have the equipment and they're all hand build anyway.
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Sep 28, 2021 17:01
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frogbs posted:There's a guy who thinks you should consider the 'cost of commute time' and 'physical work' as part of the cost of an ebike. I look at it from the other perspective. E-biking to work is 35-40 minutes, driving is 30-35. So I spend 10 extra minutes to get a more than an hour of daily moderate cardio which makes me feel good, sleep well and not get too fat. If I don't bike I need to find time to exercise some other way or suffer the consequences, so really it's a time saver the way I see it. (Train/bus is a bit slower and less reliable and I can't read or look at my phone on those anyways because motion sickness.)
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Dec 15, 2021 08:51
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Yeah public transport isn't very attractive these days because of covid obviously, and motion sickness on the bus is a real issue for me. Still makes an interesting comparison cost/time-wise to e-biking. Metro passes aren't free, but neither are bikes or their upkeep. Depending on what breaks and wears out or gets stolen I figure payback on my current commuter should take at least two years of riding (more likely almost three) and it's a pretty cheap bike as these things go. All things considered bikes are almost always superior simply because they're the most fun IMO, but in my case health, time and economy compare pretty favourable to the alternatives too.
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Dec 15, 2021 09:35
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A thing to consider is that an electric system adds a bunch of weight any way you go about it. A hub motor, battery and the other gubbins will transform a nice fun bike into a heavy unfun bike without the assist in use. When you're on the power it's great though so you're likely to want the power almost all the time if you're anything like me.
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Jan 13, 2022 15:03
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Man_of_Teflon posted:the motors themselves are more than powerful enough (I limited them to 1000w class 3 speeds for now). the virtual freewheeling + regen is dope, and their charger is similarly able to customize profiles such as charge to 75%, so I feel good about future battery health. Being able to set the charge limits is absolutely essential for battery longevity. I'm glad that such chargers are becoming available off the shelf. Hopefully it will become common and cheap and I won't have to hack up all my chargers and install voltage monitor relays anymore in the future. Gearless hub motors have their pros and cons, but regen is absolutely dope. It will really save massively on brake wear and If you live where there are hills to descend and your bike is heavy it prevents any risk of overheating so it adds to safety. Can you modulate the regen smoothly or is it more of an on/off affair? As for PAS, I've messed with it a bit trying to make it do what I want but I gave up and run a thumb throttle instead. That way I'm in full control and always get the power I want exactly when I want it. I personally believe really good pedal assist is impossible unless you have torque sensors in the crank assembly or something similar. The throttle on the other hand gives infinite flexibility using the magic of the human brain. After a short while you won't think about it anymore and it's just telepathic power assist. While not strictly legal where I live I've never gotten any grief over it, but I almost always pedal when on the power unless I'm walking the bike somewhere, which is another case where the throttle can be super useful.
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Jan 19, 2022 06:49
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Man_of_Teflon posted:the regen is modulated by the throttle once the brakes are activated and it is super smooth.
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Jan 19, 2022 15:43
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Yeah front wheel motor is great on snow and ice. My exclusively RWD e-mtb is much harder to control than the front motor bakfiets when it's really slick. A bit of wheel spin up front doesn't hurt a whole lot, you can still balance more or less normally and point the bike where you want it to go. With a spinning rear wheel at low speed things go sideways pretty fast. Pretty similar with cars if you have no traction control - RWD is less stable than FWD when slippery.
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Jan 24, 2022 08:33
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Charles posted:Use winter tires? It's true for cars and I presume the bike winter tires have the same effect. I do, and it does. On the car side of things some people think they can get away with all seasons in the winter since they have 4wd, only they forget that braking and turning are way more important than the ability to accelerate. All cars are 4 wheel braking so tires are everything if you want safety. Proper snow tires are an absolute must on any wheeled vehicle in the winter where I live IMO and while they're super great compared to the alternatives they're not magic. Wheel spin and skids are still very much a thing even on the best tires money can buy, and they're all compromises. A super specialized ice tire won't work on bare asphalt which is most of winter driving/riding at least where I live. It also won't be great on snow, weirdly enough. Both my e-bikes currently sit on Schwalbe winter marathon +. I've tried different brands over the years (Suomi, Continental, random chinesium) but the schwalbes are a good compromise for my use case. Good snow grip, good stud retention if treated right, OK rubber life expectancy, decent rolling resistance and acceptable grip on ice - the last two are highly related to the stud pattern. The real clincher is the puncture resistance which is great. On the downside they're heavy, not cheap and a bit stiff and cumbersome to mount/dismount.
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Jan 24, 2022 09:13
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evil_bunnY posted:The biggest downside to winter marathons is they'll reliably let the studs through the rubber after a couple of seasons. I've never worn one down.
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Jan 29, 2022 14:21
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I've been evangelising (successfully on at least 3 occasions that I know of) cargo e-bikes pretty much ever since I electrified my antique bakfiets and realised just how immensely useful they are. Also fun, fast, easy to park etc etc. Easy to park right in the middle of the park, even, or right on the beach, or wherever. Any two wheeler is capable of moderate trail or even offroad riding too in a pinch. For parents of small kids it's wonderful in all sorts of ways and just a good time in general. We used to get loads of attention in the beginning but similar vehicles are becoming pretty common around these parts so it's not like it's novel anymore. The longest we've gone with the kids is about 20km one way, but anything under 5 has almost always been by cargobike unless the weather was awful. If you're contemplating getting one and fit the target demographic my advice is to go for it.Jonny Quest posted:Guess that means it is time for (e)n+1, right? When we go on bike rides as a family the adult not riding a bakfiets normally also rides an e-bike. Usually we bring the granny bike - it's just a simple cheap step-through with a front hub motor but it keeps up well enough and it feels wrong to hoon around in assisted comfort when your significant other is sweating and puffing up the hills. Sadly the kids are getting big and won't suffer the box much longer but I'm just about to go pick up my eldest from a friend and it's gonna be the box tonight unless she wants to walk home 
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Feb 18, 2022 18:56
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Citizen Z posted:I went back and forth on buying a cargo bike to supplement my regular e-bike, but just settled on getting a cargo trailer. It adds a ton of options to what you can do with a bike, much like a box bike would I suspect. Don't get me wrong, I don't dislike trailers, used to have one and they bring utility for sure but IMO it's not nearly the same. The box bike used to be my main vehicle when the kids were younger and needed rides to and from places on the daily. I'd carry on commuting to work after dropping them off, doing shopping or other errands on the way home and pretty much anything else you can think of with 100kg of effortless cargo capacity always at the ready. It's seen improvised use as an ambulance once and as a taxi for adults in need many times. Countless kids have had joyrides in it just for the fun of it. I've moved pretty large pieces of furniture with it, and a washing machine. It's been a pit bike at the race track with great success. The always ready part it probably key to why I love that bike so much, as well as all the memories of both mundane stuff and weird situations. Although I don't use it daily anymore I can't imagine selling it even if I mainly use it as a grocery getter/parcel fetcher/garbage hauler/general local runabout these days. Also there's no way I'd ever get paid what it's worth to me since it's become a one-off freak of a (highly reliable) vehicle. The fenders and chain guard are the only parts both original and unmodified at this point.
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Feb 19, 2022 00:36
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CopperHound posted:stuff I have a broken geared rear hub laying around where the controller screen says a hall sensor is messed up that I've been meaning to hook up to an oscilloscope and hopefully repair for a few € in parts. It would be great to have a spare motor for my main commuter laying around. (Salt water ingress, I assume either corrosion of electronics directly or more likely rubbing caused by slop in the rusted and busted wheel bearing which I rode on knowingly for weeks because I'm a bad person). I also have a 24V front wheel in the attic I found in the trash that maybe could be re-wound or something to suit my various retired 36V components to make a fun project, you know, for the kids. E: I should also stop procrastinating and finally build that spot welder I've gathered parts for and learn how to make my own battery packs which is something I've been meaning to do for years. Invalido fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Apr 10, 2022 |
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Apr 10, 2022 06:17
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Get a longer seat post? Diameters are plentiful but if you have a set of calipers you can measure what you need and most likely find something that will solve your ergonomics problem. Personally I dislike seat post suspension but people like different things.
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May 28, 2022 19:42
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Bucky Fullminster posted:Sounds like it's time for a trike, no?
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Jun 11, 2022 11:14
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Sab0921 posted:What's the benefit over a bakfiet? The killer benefit is a bigger box. Much bigger even. Easily twice the number of kids no sweat. The weight is right over the front wheels so if those are good you can load well over 100 kg with no issue which few bakfiets can handle. Also easier to load and unload and ride at slow speeds, or when being pushed around or reversing. A bakfiets or any two wheeler really can be quite cumbersome when it's very heavy, what with getting on and off the center stand and just unstable mass in general (which shifts around a bit when it's lively kids onboard even if they're strapped in). It's literally a balancing act and the slower you go the trickier it gets. I'm fine with it, but I'm pretty strong and I have good technique. My wife rode it lots and liked it until the weight of both kids reached critical mass and after that she wouldn't ride it with two kids in the box anymore since she had a tip over and thought it too sketchy after that. Even a very heavy trike is super easy to handle at no or very low speed. It won't tip over and there's no muscling it onto or off the center stand. Just set the parking brake and it's done. At high speed the trike is a much shittier ride and it really sucks offroad or when space is tight but all things considered it's still what I'd personally choose for moving three kids around over moderate distances.
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Jun 11, 2022 16:16
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evil_bunnY posted:boo-this-man.gif
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Jun 11, 2022 22:09
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evil_bunnY posted:I think the scale at which they make sense is when you have >4 kids. As for quads I kind of like the idea of them. I built one once. It didn't have a proper differential or any suspension apart from tire and frame flex, but those things would have made it much better. Reverse gear was the Flintstone method, but it really would have needed that too. When it wasn't broken it saw some use hauling construction sheets and tools around on a flat large site which was neat (it was shaped like a pickup truck with two recumbent pedal stations side by side and a bed in the back), but a good quad needs to be complex which means expensive and heavy and big, which I guess is why you don't see many of them around. Anyways, the ideal number of wheels shall always remain two, for obvious reasons.
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Jun 11, 2022 23:06
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CopperHound posted:Time for my twice a year rant drat straight. If you're a company building e-bikes there's no excuse for this. I have two self-converted hub drive bikes. On the one I solved the issue by welding up the caliper mount myself. On the other one I need to build a custom flat-to-post adapter myself. I really should get on that, it's been a year and a half of suboptimal braking. I have all tools and materials necessary and I'm out of excuses.
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Sep 5, 2022 08:17
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I finally did something about the brake caliper alignment on my homebrew hub motor driven e-bike. The original plan was to make a new bracket, but it became obvious I could just modify the existing one. I measured the unused sliver on a worn brake pad, which was 2.5mm, so I simply shaved off 3mm on the adapter in the mill: A small chamfer and thread chase of the holes and a kiss of the file to de-burr the part and it was ready for install again.  The disc sits visibly in the right place in the caliper at last! Sadly the pads have been impregnated with mineral oil from a leaking bleed nipple so I'll have to replace those before I have a good rear brake, but this should work now, even though there's less meat than ideal in one of the threaded holes. Still five complete threads should suffice, especially since it's all shearing force on the bolt. If it doesn't I'll fabricate a whole new part.
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Sep 20, 2022 07:58
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kimbo305 posted:So I could replace my Bosch battery with a generic, provided I got the voltage and interface plug correct? Yup. With the nitpicking caveat that your new pack can deliver enough current for your motor. In reality this won't be an issue as long as the replacement pack is of a similar size. My decade-long experience is that it's worth it to get a pack with name-brand cells rather than generic chinese no-name ones. Costs a bit more but lasts a lot more charge cycles, at least for me. Some of that is me learning to baby my packs and treat them kindly though.
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Nov 16, 2022 08:05
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Grin's fancy charger is very nice for that. Charge to whatever voltage you want, at any rate! All chargers should have a voltage cutoff setting. A simple but fully functional setup is a few bucks worth of electronics and manufacturing cost tops. I think the EU or California or similar should mandate that all chargers sold must have it so the market unfucks itself. I've solved the issue by adding voltage monitoring relays to all my chargers (I have four) at a cost of like $100 and a few hours of work. I've easily multiplied that sum several times in savings from battery longevity over the years.
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Nov 18, 2022 07:49
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Thirding squishy forks are probably not worth it. I have one on my fast commuter and while it's nice to have at high speed it's by no means necessary at reasonable speeds even if the road is rough. While it lets me ride like a hooligan and mess up without consequences at times it comes with significant drawbacks. Lots of maintenance on it, expensive consumables and nasty fluid that ends up everywhere. Big wheels and big tires is all you need for commuting IMO.
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Dec 2, 2022 14:32
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Still gotta get studded snow tires
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Jan 19, 2023 20:58
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Schwalbe marathon plus is the gold standard for puncture resistance and very popular among practical cyclists. Not cheap, heavy (matters little on an ebike of course), not the nicest riding tire and sort of a pain to mount/dismount are the drawbacks. They wear fairly slowly though and work really really well against punctures so I commute on them despite the negatives and I see no reason to switch after several years on them.
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Feb 7, 2023 18:42
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You don't have to run the same dimensions as you have now. Going wider is limited by frame clearance and fender rub but going narrower is generally fine. It's not like 2" is skinny or anything, that's still respectably beefy for gravel and pavement. I'd hazard the most dramatic effect of running that dimension is that your bike lean angle when on the kickstand will be more upright. That being said I run the widest tires I can on my ebikes since I like it but that means skinnier tires in the winter since that's what's available with both puncture resistance and studs. Anyways good tires are important and I hope you find something you'll be happy with.
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Feb 9, 2023 18:42
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kimbo305 posted:The Big Apple comes in 2.35, so effective drop would be 4mm. I think of the Big Apple as a pretty tough tire, but depends on what you have on there. I used to run those on the bakfiets and they were pretty good. Not as puncture proof as the marathon pluses and wore out pretty fast but a nice tire IMO Edit: there's also the Big Ben plus with greenguard so a bit tougher than the Apple at 26x2.15 that might work? Invalido fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 18:44
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The brake cutoff switch the fabrication of which gave me my avatar is mounted with epoxy too, so is the magnet that flips the little switch. It's totally fine. The most likely failure mode is a maximum of 500 watts of regenerative braking which is pretty undramatic.
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Mar 2, 2023 08:03
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I detest riding in jeans and such even on e-bikes unless it's a real short trip, which I guess 3 miles would be, maybe. My commute is 12 miles and at least 35 minutes so switching pants is easily worth it for me. Not getting sweaty because of electricity is awesome though.
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May 11, 2023 16:54
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