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but do not do the CBT without lots of training last month's National Geographic cover story was Everest, but I still haven't read it
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Jul 26, 2020 16:29
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the cover story of the July issue of National Geographic Everest. there's an expedition to try and find Mallory's camera, but most of the issue is about water problems in India and Pakistan.
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Aug 18, 2020 14:43
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PostNouveau posted:Definitely worth risking your life for I don't know if you read the article, but he LITERALLY DOES THIS THING, SPECIFICALLY AGAINST THE ADVICE OF BOTH THE SHERPA GUIDES AND THE EURO GUIDES. I'm not spoilering that, bc of course he did but also he's the guy who wrote the article, so
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Aug 18, 2020 23:34
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I shouldn't have been quite that harsh overall. He's an experienced mountaineer who never wanted to climb Everest, bc it seemed... tawdry, basically? But a friend got him interested in finding Mallory's camera, to see if he'd been the first to summit. Mallory's assistant, Irvine, had the camera. A Chinese climber saw what had to be Irvine's body, but it was basically unreachable. They don't intend to summit, but the Sherpa guides want to (for experience for their crew). They agree, hit the top, then detour on the way down. The part that sucks is where he's going to rappel into the ravine and the lead Sherpa guide is yelling at him not to, his colleague tells him not to, he tells himself he shouldn't, what with his alive family and all, but then does it anyway. He lives, Irvine's body isn't there, but they made some loving amazing drone maps of the whole area. Well, poo poo... I just found a blog about the search, apparently not related to those dudes. He's mad as hell: https://malloryandirvine.com/2020/06/16/comments-on-2019-search/
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Aug 25, 2020 15:37
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Mr. Funny Pants posted:The theory that seemed most credible to me (for all that's worth, which isn't much) is that the pilot intentionally decompressed the plane so he'd have no opposition. I forget what he was thought to have done to the other pilot. there was a long-format article about this somewhere. his wife had left him and he was spending hours on MS Flight Simulator doing the same route he seems to have taken. the theory goes that the copilot got locked out at the exact moment the plane was supposed to be handed from one control tower to another (so nobody noticed), and he depressurized the cabin (but the cockpit is separate now) and just flew until he was out of fuel or decided to down it
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Nov 3, 2020 21:23
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I found this after reading the Geographic article: https://malloryandirvine.com/2020/06/16/comments-on-2019-search/ well worth reading. the tl;dr is that a team had already investigated the area, and also that the ones who found Mallory's body should have checked his pockets for rocks, since that's how they celebrated/marked summiting basically, the camera is a macguffin
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Dec 10, 2020 14:41
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Crime on a Dime posted:is that a good brand? well, everybody's looking for it, but it's not clear why
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Dec 10, 2020 15:22
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Tibetans have a genetic difference that helps with high altitude functioning: https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2014/07/tibetans-inherited-high-altitude-gene-ancient-human
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Dec 22, 2020 19:08
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 nooooooooo
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Dec 25, 2020 16:45
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Pablo Bluth posted:Life goal: First nude climb of Everest. training by carefully climbing up very tall, attractive people
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Jan 4, 2021 21:09
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Potato Salad posted:Ever tried dungeon roleplay? I cast Bigby's Grasping Hand
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Jan 7, 2021 14:01
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https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/05/books/review/himalaya-a-human-history-ed-douglas.html book review of Everest: A Human History, the which looks interesting
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Jan 7, 2021 15:53
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HugeGrossBurrito posted:Minus 148 Degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius?
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Jan 8, 2021 22:02
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Jan 10, 2021 16:17
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I went snorkeling with a group of people who'd never snorkeled before and holy poo poo, just getting ourselves to breathe while our faces were underwater was a huge mental block. one of the people absolutely couldn't do it. this was a manatee-molesting tour, and the guide had moved to Florida solely for the cave diving opportunities.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:57
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Jan 20, 2021 16:17
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RobotCoupeDetat posted:The sidecar races are particularly insane sidehackers! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wtoDjCkZJWg
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Jan 21, 2021 02:12
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I read an earlier article that just blamed the katabatic winds: it just got colder than they could manage, and then [plausible explanation]
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Jan 31, 2021 03:57
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the last family reunion I attended in Bismarck, ND, it got down to 36 loving degrees in the morning of 6 July. does that count? (I was there a different summer and the gas station thermometer sign read 114 on the 4th. the weather's insane there.)
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Feb 4, 2021 04:12
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Zero One posted:If you want more the story by the guy who found them is worth a read: https://www.otherhand.org/home-page/search-and-rescue/the-hunt-for-the-death-valley-germans/ somebody on here linked this a couple years ago and it's a fascinating read.
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Feb 8, 2021 00:52
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I was told that if I ever got lost to go downhill until I find water then follow the water downstream until I hit civilization, but I realize none of that is wise or even followable advice in the big empty parts of the west
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Feb 8, 2021 23:42
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Leperflesh posted:One of the things I always do is leave a little note in my car with my exact plans. there's nothing incredibly dangerous or remote locally, but the mountain state parks all have little stations at the trailhead. everybody is supposed to fill out a card with the party's names and ages, the planned route, and the make and model of their car, even if they're just doing the little 2-hour loop trail, just in case something goes wrong
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Feb 9, 2021 04:23
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somebody on the Lewis and Clark expedition managed to kill a charging grizzly with one shot, by firing directly down its throat, but even then they noted that this was not a generally practicable strategy
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Feb 10, 2021 18:12
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I met a guy who got thirsty while hiking in Italy, figured he was at a high enough altitude to drink the water, and spent six months in the hospital with something horrible
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Feb 12, 2021 04:35
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as I say, it was Italy, so it might have been giardia de Laurentiis
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Feb 12, 2021 04:36
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Phy posted:It's not Mount Saveamanjaro
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Feb 24, 2021 18:18
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if there's not a bed in the cave I will very quickly stop radiating kindness
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Mar 13, 2021 15:56
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doesn't part of the physics of the wingsuit involve proximity to the ground?
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Aug 23, 2021 19:40
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Platystemon posted:Wake me when someone climbs Olympus Mons. but without supplemental oxygen
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Jan 28, 2022 13:26
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CaptainTofu posted:We also sell beer in imperial pints. Everything else is metric. I keep forgetting that on top of everything else American standard liquid measures are slightly different from Imperial.
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Jan 28, 2022 14:03
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this month's National Geographic has an article on the Sherpa K2 climb
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Feb 4, 2022 20:36
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Nice Tuckpointing! posted:"Historic heights in mountaineering were achieved this week as the first-ever team of all-Black climbers reached the summit of Mt.Bla Everest." this was written by a dracula
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May 16, 2022 14:28
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look you can either die 10 years before the average US age of death after grinding yourself down in capitalist misery and never having engaged with your children or you can follow a daredevil life and die somewhat before that after never having engaged with your children
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Jul 14, 2022 19:28
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NYT article about an incredibly difficult climb. --- Three American Climbers Solve the ‘Last Great Problem in the Himalayas’ Scaling Mount Jannu’s north face without fixed ropes or oxygen was “the greatest climb ever,” one expert said, far more difficult than reaching the summit of Everest. John Branch By John Branch Reporting from Salt Lake City Dec. 1, 2023Updated 12:04 p.m. ET Three American climbers lay in the dark, sharing a custom-made sleeping bag on a portable ledge dangling from a massive cliff high in the Himalayas. They were anchored to the north face of Mount Jannu, one of the world’s biggest, sheerest rock walls. The void below them was 10,000 feet of thin black air. Above them, within reach, was something most people can only imagine. “I know we still have a lot to do,” Alan Rousseau said to his two fellow climbers. “But I feel like we just did something cool.” The next day, Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell — little known outside of climbing circles, for the moment — stood at Jannu’s summit. Before them were the white tips of other major peaks, including Everest and Kangchenjunga. They may not have had the full perspective. That is now coming from other top mountaineers see the group’s ascent of Jannu’s north face as a monumental achievement. “In my mind, it’s the greatest climb ever — the greatest Alpine climb,” said Mark Synnott, a renowned climber and author who was stymied by Jannu’s north face in 2000 and called it the “last great problem in the Himalayas.” At 25,295 feet, Jannu — with its remote location and combination of height, steepness and altitude — is one of the most daunting peaks for climbers. Its north face, especially, has stirred and vexed mountaineers. Others had been to the top of Jannu, though not many. None had done this route in following the minimal ethos of an Alpine-style ascent: no supplemental oxygen, no ropes fixed in advance, no porters beyond base camp. The three men used only what they could carry on their backs. “It’s the simplest way of doing something,” Rousseau said. “You just begin at the bottom and go to the top.” ImageAlan Rousseau, in a hooded ribbed jacket; Matt Cornell, in a North Face hoodie; and Jackson Marvell, in a blue windbreaker, stand with their hands in their pockets on a bluff overlooking Salt Lake City. From left, Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell succeeded in climbing the north face of Mount Jannu on their third try.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times Alan Rousseau, in a hooded ribbed jacket; Matt Cornell, in a North Face hoodie; and Jackson Marvell, in a blue windbreaker, stand with their hands in their pockets on a bluff overlooking Salt Lake City. Rousseau, Cornell and Marvell gathered in Utah last week to share their story for the first time — the yearslong dream; the day-to-day struggle to ascend nearly two miles of mostly sheer rock and ice; the blackened, frostbitten fingertips that still needed to heal. The three climbers had not yet fully processed their achievement. “We did something we didn’t think was possible,” Rousseau said. “It gave us the realization that we can climb in one of the biggest arenas out there.” They called their expedition “Round-trip Ticket,” in a nod to Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov, who completed an Alpine ascent of Jannu’s west pillar in 2007. “Perhaps some day, a pair will climb a direct route on the north face in Alpine style,” Kofanov wrote in 2017, “but they’ll need to accept the likelihood that they’re buying themselves a one-way ticket.” Camping in a Crevasse The expedition began with a 30-hour drive from Kathmandu, Nepal. A hiking trek to base camp began at 5,000 feet of elevation, and for six days the climbers used porters and pack animals to climb out of swampy junglelike terrain. Base camp was established at the foot of Jannu’s north face in a meadow at 15,500 feet. Arriving Sept. 17, the climbers acclimated to the altitude and studied forecasts, searching for a weeklong window of clear weather. In early October, they found a promising stretch. “It removed a lot of stress,” Marvell said. They prepared their climbing packs, taking advantage of ever-improving gear. Climbing tools — ice axes, crampons, ice screws, pitons and so on — are stronger and lighter than ever. So are ropes. The climbers used two ropes, each 60 meters long. One was a nine-millimeter nylon rope for climbing, the other a thinner one so that the lead climber could lift gear, allowing teammates to concentrate and ascend without cargo on their backs. They carried dehydrated food. They had one stove, one pot and one two-pound sleeping bag, wide enough to fit three men, the better for body warmth. Image Marvell, left, and Rousseau preparing their inflatable portaledges.Credit...Matt Cornell Marvell, left, and Rousseau preparing their inflatable portaledges. Image At night, the climbers slept while hanging off the mountainside.Credit...Jackson Marvell At night, the climbers slept while hanging off the mountainside. The most helpful technical innovation might have been the two inflatable single-person portaledges, hanging perches that could be anchored to cliff sides so that climbers could rest. The climbers fastened the portaledges side-by-side and slept with their heads resting against the rock, their feet out over the void. The climb began on a Saturday in October. It was “mixed” climbing, meaning a mix of rock, snow and ice, with the men rotating into the lead position. The first two days involved about 6,000 vertical feet of climbing, 60 meters of rope at a time. They slept the first night at 19,000 feet, in a crack “where the glacier movement separates away from the ice that’s stuck to the mountain face,” Rousseau said. “Which sounds crazy to a lot of people, that we camped inside a crevasse, essentially.” They could feel and hear the movement of the glacial ice. “It’s just wild to see how fast that is pulling away from the mountain and how active it is,” Marvell said. Such instability was a constant danger. Falling rock and ice routinely showered the men. Shards sliced through their tarp, as they rested on their portaledges at night, but caused no injuries. “They weren’t big enough to hurt you,” Cornell said of the shards. “They would just destroy all your gear.” On the fourth day, Cornell was below Rousseau and Marvell when he saw them disappear in a cloud of falling ice and snow. “Oh, God, they’re going to be killed by this thing, it’s going to rip the anchor out, and then it’s going to pull me down because I’m attached to the rope,” Cornell recalled thinking. “So I was just bracing, ready to be sent down the mountain. And then it all, like, clears past them, and they’re moving around, like, We’re good!” The men laughed together at the retelling. They slept that night in the pocket that the fallen chunk of ice had left behind. The hood of Marvell’s jacket was sliced open in the episode. “I was blowing feathers the rest of the climb,” he said. Cornell led the group through a long block of technical pitches on the fifth day, as the men moved beyond the apexes of other Alpine-style attempts. They were nearing the top of the north face. “Improbability faded away,” Marvell said. Image Rousseau and Marvell, seen as two figures ascending the snowy face of a mountain, as the sun glows on the horizon above them. Rousseau and Marvell on the shoulder atop Mount Jannu’s head wall.Credit...Matt Cornell Rousseau and Marvell, seen as two figures ascending the snowy face of a mountain, as the sun glows on the horizon above them. On a 10-hour sixth day, they reached the top of the wall — the real goal — and climbed a tricky but nonvertical stretch toward the summit. Before getting there, Marvell took a glove off and found his fingers blistered, a sign of severe frostbite. The men discussed options. “We’re 100 meters from the top, and we have the weather window of the decade,” Marvell said. “Is it worth potentially losing the tip of a finger, you know, or will this frostbite get worse? And it seemed to me to be worth the risk.” They reached Jannu’s summit at 4:20 p.m. on Oct. 12 and stayed for just a few minutes. The mission was never the top but the climb. “Getting to the top of Jannu was kind of like crossing the ‘t’ and dotting the ‘i,’” Rousseau said. The Height Is Not the Point Their accomplishment has the climbing world buzzing. It represents a tonic to the media-obsessed, big-money, guide-led, fixed-rope conga-line parades on mountains like Everest. Such mass upward migrations do not interest blue-collar mountaineers like these. “I have been asked a couple of times if I climbed the north face of Jannu to train to eventually climb Everest,” Rousseau said. He shook his head. “It’s a different sport than that sport.” For alpinists, the public’s fascination with the highest mountains is a bit like judging an ocean swimmer by how deep the water is. Marvell has had similar queries from well-meaning acquaintances: How high is Jannu? “That’s not really the point,” he said. Hundreds typically reach the summit of Everest every spring. Those with the skill, strength and imagination to consider the likes of Jannu’s north face, with a willingness to dare to be first, might number in the tens. The mountain’s 3,000-foot head wall, parts of it overhanging and spackled in corniced snow and ice, is roughly the size of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. The section foiled previous attempts, including one by Ueli Steck and three others nearly two decades ago. In 2004, about a dozen Russians laid siege to Jannu’s north face, drilling it with bolts, draping it with dozens of fixed ropes, swapping out men when they became hurt or exhausted. The nearly two-month expedition succeeded and was considered an extraordinary feat, earning the Russians a Piolet d’Or, alpine climbing’s top award. This was not that. This was three men, two ropes and one shared sleeping bag. Image Rousseau is recovering from frostbite on his fingers.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times Rousseau is recovering from frostbite on his fingers. Image Climbing gear at Rousseau’s home in Salt Lake City.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times Climbing gear at Rousseau’s home in Salt Lake City. “It was much more a kind of personal thing as opposed to, like, what outside statement it made about anything,” Rousseau said of their climb. Conrad Anker, a leading mountaineer of the past several decades, considers the Alpine-style climb of Jannu’s north face to be a generational feat. He called it “an antidote to fixed-rope, high-altitude tourism.” “There are so many different ways we play with gravity on cliffs,” Anker said. “This is the purest, the most demanding, the ultimate expression.” Anker, 61, said that he had reviewed the past 30 years of Piolet d’Or winners, and “there is no climb that matches this.” He was part of a three-man team, with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk, that scaled an improbable route up Mount Meru, another vaunted Himalayan peak, in 2011. That expedition was detailed in the award-winning documentary, “Meru.” “Meru pales in comparison to this,” Anker said, citing Jannu’s greater length, height and elevation. Rousseau, Cornell and Marvell have been climbing together for about four years, in pairs and sometimes together. Two previous attempts on Jannu’s north face, in 2021 and 2022, ended early but were valuable scouting trips. Last year, the three scaled what Climbing magazine called “one of the most legendary lines in North American alpinism”: the Slovak Direct route on Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, in Alaska. “That was sort of a trial run, to see how we all jibe together, moving through that kind of terrain,” Rousseau said. “And that worked out pretty well for us.” Now they are climbing’s newest power throuple. Image Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell in insulated jackets and climbing helmets, posing on Mount Jannu. Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell on Mount Jannu. “You feel the vibes from partners and you can also, like, feel a vibe or energy that the mountain is giving off,” Cornell said.Credit...Jackson Marvell Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell in insulated jackets and climbing helmets, posing on Mount Jannu. Rousseau, 37, is married and lives along the foothills in Salt Lake City. He guides climbers in Utah and beyond. Experience in leading others makes him the logistical leader and a calculated voice when circumstances demand difficult decisions. Cornell, 29, is known as a quiet, compact free-solo (no rope) ice climber. He usually spends winters near Bozeman, Mont., and summers around the rock-climbing hub of Yosemite National Park, working at a restaurant (owned by Anker, a mentor) to help fund his pursuits. He lives in a 2003 Freightliner van, with 320,000 miles, fitted with a bed, stove and other amenities. Marvell, 27, lives in Heber City, Utah, and has a few sponsorship deals and also his own welding business. Tall and wiry, he spends summers off the coast of Alaska, climbing up and rappelling down oil platforms, timing repair work with the tides. Having grown up in Utah, he was drawn toward the sandstone towers of the desert and was willing to attempt just about anything. Cornell noted the trusting relationship the three men have built and the necessity of perfect harmony during an expedition. “You feel the vibes from partners and you can also, like, feel a vibe or energy that the mountain is giving off that year as well,” Cornell said. This fall, he said, “just felt like really positive energy going into the trip, real positive energy during the trip. The mountain felt a lot more welcoming and friendly to us.” The descent from Jannu’s summit, by a series of rappels that hopscotched back down the face, stretched to midnight the next day. By then, Rousseau, too, had frostbite across his fingers. After a day at base camp, the men flew in a helicopter back to Kathmandu, where Rousseau and Marvell spent five days in a hospital, getting their hands treated. Healing continues, and the men hope not to lose any fingertips. The three already have plans for another monumental climb. They do not include Everest. Something bigger.
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Dec 1, 2023 22:28
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another NYT article about climbing. this one's about an American expedition in Argentina in 1973. two people died. one of them was carrying a camera, and that just reappeared a couple years ago.
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Jan 8, 2024 15:11
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mounting Everest
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Feb 4, 2024 02:34
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really compelling article about a guy who skied incredibly dangerous locations until the inevitable sank in and he quit. https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2024/jan/30/precipice-of-fear-the-freerider-who-took-skiing-to-its-limits 
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Feb 12, 2024 17:24
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was hanging out on my uncle's pumpkin farm in Bismarck, ND, when a helicopter started circling and then landed. turns out someone had arranged for a flight for him as a thank-you present. the operator hung out for a while after taking him on a quick trip around the area and the thing I remember being most surprised by is how loving much it costs to operate a helicopter just in fuel costs alone
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Feb 15, 2024 16:24
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when he died a goon reposted someone's public social media reaction along the lines of "I thought this was really funny until I learned he was POC  "the galaxiest of brains
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Feb 20, 2024 18:40
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Empty Sandwich posted:when he died a goon reposted someone's public social media reaction along the lines of "I thought this was really funny until I learned he was POC found it: 
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Feb 20, 2024 23:37
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