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That's stop/start, it's a fuel saving & emissions reduction technique and loads of modern cars do it. We have a couple of ~6 year old Skodas as pool cars at work with it, and it's always a suprise when they die at the first stop light. Most are pretty seamless, but Jeep's implimentation was either done by Chrysler or Fiat, so you might be noticing it more if they cut the engine particularly ungracefully.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2020 13:24 |
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# ¿ May 17, 2024 17:09 |
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Dren posted:It sounds like they have to fully start the car when the light turns green. I've never had a car that does that! Like I said, Chrysler and/or Fiat came up with it so it's unlikely to be the smoothest implimentation.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2020 20:10 |
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:from the rivendell newsletter I had this exact same thing happen to an SKS mudguard last year. I popped it back into shape and it's been fine ever since, despite the crack that now runs halfway across it.
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# ¿ May 22, 2021 08:34 |
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I've got tubeless marathons on one of my bikes, I laugh in the face of the cycling gods as I deliberately ride through broken glass in the street.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2021 00:36 |
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Salt Fish posted:I ran marathons for 3 years and never had a single flat. They didn't feel great to actually ride on though, so I ended up switching to the Maxxis rambler in 38c. Those marathons were bullet proof. When I went to throw them out I ruined a pair of heavy duty scissors trying to cut them into smaller pieces. They were totally unharmed. Oh yeah they feel like garbage, even the supremes are pretty bad, but for commuting through the blasted hellscape that is a British town centre they are ideal. Somebody had smashed a bus shelter window all over the bike lane a few weeks ago and I didn't even slow down for it. I'm now expecting to double-flat next time I so much as sit on the bike.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2021 11:29 |
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Heliosicle posted:My canyon commuter has a lot of front disc rub problems I'm trying to solve. It has hydraulic brakes but a QR axle (), and for some reason (this is probably the core issue) the hub seems to shift over time, moving more to the left. The tightness of the QR seems to be a big factor, so perhaps it's loosening and allowing the wheel to shift a bit in the dropout. This got buried in the tubeless doctrine war, but something feels amiss here. If you haven't already I can highly recommend getting some Shimano internal cam skewers, now I've used them I won't put anything else on my QR bikes. They range from $ to $$$ but function the same, I've got some Deore and Ultegra labelled ones and they all work equally well.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2021 08:11 |
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Havana Affair posted:The freewheels have a different thread and are rare. It's Italian and English that are close enough to each other. The rear hub can also be a helicomatic which takes even rarer replacement parts. Haha son of a, I was about to reply and ask if you meant bottom bracket not freewheel because until just now I never knew freewheels had different threads too!
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2022 07:16 |
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To give a dissenting bit of anecdata, I've had a set of spyres for 5 years or so and never had issues with the adjusters. They are by far and away the least-poo poo mech brakes I've ever used. That said people really like the hy/rd's and they're the best you can do with mechanical brifters, so if they fit your bike then go for it.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2023 00:39 |
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# ¿ May 17, 2024 17:09 |
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Splode posted:Snip I'm jumping in late but, are you able to remove that rack and see if it makes the rear wheel any easier to fit? I have a rack that squeezes the dropouts together on one of my bikes just enough that re-fitting the wheel is a pain. Fortunately it's a huge rack and a steel frame so it's all quite springy, but with your frame and rack being so small I'd expect the whole thing to be stiffer and harder to pull around.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 17:30 |