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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

rode a couple days where the heat index was >100, which actually owned because I got a really nice sweat going

glad I have two water bottles as water fountains are not available for obvious reasons

my bike in the great indoors

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

why would you ever want your pedal to be one-sided idgi

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I suppose it would be good so if you wanted to just ride chill sometimes and wear normal shoes you could pedal on the other side

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Ortazel posted:

I take multiple ferries on about 50% of the rides I go on, and I've always been tempted to create a Strava segment for the ferry section to see which river pilot drives (boats?) the fastest. The S-bend they take varies based on the river current though so I don't think they'd all count as the same segment.

I'm insanely jealous of your combo ferry/bike trips

I just bike into the water, sink and come out the other side like Skinner in that one simpsons ep

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Canyon bike looks sort of cool but yeah black/black is kind of eh

the blue one looks SUPER cool tho blue is my favorite color

anyone speculate on how much the price bump has been due to covid?

edit: I don't know poo poo about race bikes but this one has the di2 and looks cool https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...rCode=red_black

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 29, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

rain actually owns because your bike gets cleaned and you get cooled off while riding

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Coxswain Balls posted:

Yeah that's true, since it's my road bike and not my fully fredded commuting bike I don't really use it in poor weather. It's probably not idea for those conditions.

Apparently the stolen bike market is booming here to the point where you have to pre-order bikes you see locked up on the street.



which U of M is this?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I'm looking for help on dealing with toe numbness. Bike fitting isn't available right now for obvious reasons. Noticing the numbness after just 20-25 minutes, obviously it's summer so weather can be a factor, but it happens in intense heat as it does if it's 75 degrees or something. My first step was to move my cleats to the back - they had been in in the middle position as that's where the person at the store put them, but moving them back didn't help at all (it might actually have made it a bit worse). however it did improve the process of clipping in and out.

Other things that I thought might be causing issues besides the front/back position of the cleat:

1) sock thickness - I do have a few pairs of socks like this

https://www.eriksbikeshop.com/bellwether-fusion-socks-pr3e19162/p?skuId=8018747

they are somewhat thick. things I noticed

a) I tried having the shoe on looser to compensate; no noticeable effect
b) my left foot is about 1/2 inch shorter than the right foot, and that feels the same. I am also currently wearing a compression sock on my right leg and foot. I figured if something as small as sock thickness was an issue, that I would notice the effect more on my right foot vs. left foot.

2) seat height - could this be related? perhaps my seat has slid down a bit over time so I should check that.

3) heat - perhaps just a heat compression issue? ways to alleviate? I don't think this is something that has happened in cooler weather.

thanks, here is the bottom of my shoes with cleats in the bottom position. before this i had them about 1/4 inch higher.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Are you sure those shoes aren’t too small, or that you have them too tight?

that was another thought - they are size 13, but my sneakers are size 11.5, and my sneakers are actually a bit longer than these so :wtc:

the sizing was what the person at the LBS fit me for. I can try having the velcro straps at the bottom be even looser - the top strap I already have as loose I can with it still sticking.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

also I think my seat is too low, please forgive the grandma leg as I had vein surgery. But this is with the pedal in the 6 o'clock position and my leg is bent a decent amount.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Here's the angle after moving the seat up like 1/2-5/8" which gives me a very slight knee angle, might need to revert a bit but not much.

i can have someone get a pic from further back if it helps (?)

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

It's hard to tell from this pic. Would it be possible to shoot video of the whole leg while you're leaned against the wall, pedaling backwards smoothly (if you don't have a trainer).

yeah I'll try to get my neighbor to help me out and post a short video, thanks!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

It's hard to tell from this pic. Would it be possible to shoot video of the whole leg while you're leaned against the wall, pedaling backwards smoothly (if you don't have a trainer).

hey here's the video

https://imgur.com/a/0vWrNVH

I'm also realizing that my leg isn't extending as much as I can; I'm sure my pedaling form is pretty bad

here's a pic of my leg with that same seat height from further back

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

sweat poteto posted:

Ouch. Your saddle looks too high. Also try with the crank in line with the seat post, not vertical.

yeah i prob increased it too much. maybe in between the two positions is the sweet spot?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

simmyb posted:

Unless you're riding in bare feet, put on the shoes or ride with for the photo or its all a bit pointless

Ah good point my bad, I'll try again tomorrow!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Doesn't too bad, though the bike seems maybe a size too small. What height are you, and what size is the bike?

Measure your cycling inseam:

multiply by 0.883, and compare to the distance from the center of the cranks to the top of the seat where you sit. Just as a starting point.

it's a 55; i'm 6'1". i have a friend who is super into bikes, used to race and also work in a shop and he advised me on the sizing so hopefully he didn't mess up :p

after laughing at that picture for a while, I estimated by inseam using a level and measuring tape as they did to be about 33.5, so *.833 would be between 29.6. the distance from the center of the crank to the top of the seat after moving it down slightly from that pic is about 29.5, and in the pic you quoted the distance is probably like 29.8.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Aug 16, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

So is 29.6 higher or lower than where you started out today? If higher, try that out.

higher, if I go back to the position I have been biking in this whole time, that's like 28.75-29.

I'm getting the impression that that difference has more of an effect than I might think.

do you think I should still keep the cleats in the farthest back position?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

okay I have found out that that video is pretty embarrassing with no shoes!!! sorry i didn't even think of it!!! :/


thanks for the help kimbo

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

@actionjackson I had a very similar problem, one foot bigger than the other and pain into numbness on the ball of my pinky toe on the bigger foot. One thing I'd mention right away is that if you normally wear insoles or need arch support in your regular shoes, it's likely you should have them in your cycling shoes. That alone may take care of it. Second, I'd caution against raising your saddle height a bunch. You don't want to have your leg go really straight at the bottom of your pedal stroke, for your joint's sake. More importantly, to make it work, you may start "reaching" with your toes at the bottom of your stroke to make up for the excessive distance, leading to foot pain. At least, that's how it was for me. Keeping your cleats back with make it harder for this to hurt you as badly.

I'd recommend moving your saddle back to its original position (or near to it) and then trying just focusing on feeling like you're keeping your heel down while you pedal and seeing if that makes a difference. You won't actually be heel down through your stroke, but it'll keep you from reaching and may alleviate the numbness. If it does, you probably want to keep a lower saddle height and keep your cleats back on your shoes.

thanks, I am at least going to get some insoles for now. I do typically wear them with my shoes.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Good Dog posted:

I will start off by saying that static pictures of you at the "6 o clock" pedal position is not good enough for any type of bike fit more thorough than "throw your leg over it and see if its rideable in the parking lot" level of bike fit, for a variety of reasons.

The 6 o clock position is not the most leg extension you will expect to see throughout the pedal stroke, instead it should be slightly forward of that, if you're drawing a straight line from the center of your saddle through the bottom bracket to the pedal spindle. After that a whole host of things come into play. Cleat position forward/backward mostly, but really what will come into play here is ankle mobility and how much flexion your ankle has throughout the pedal stroke. This is a dynamic range of motion that will never be captured by a static picture and should be done while pedaling on a trainer at the effort level and rpms you are trying to fit to, and averaging this angle over multiple pedal strokes. This can also be different from your left and right sides depending on your anatomy.

Check out bikefitadvisor on youtube, this is a good place to start with some of your questions: youtube.com/watch?v=S7HE4ogNlbY

This is a good app to get a better idea of what your knee and ankle are doing: https://www.motionysis.com/video/


In general, things I've done to mitigate some severe toe pain, usually my outer toes first.

-Move cleats back (away from toes). If you're otherwise happy with your bike fit you should be moving your saddle forward the same amount that you move your cleats back in order to keep the same knee extension to keep it close. Technically depending on what your ankle is doing and how long your feet are, moving your cleats isn't quite 1:1 with saddle fore/aft.
-Better quality insoles. I think alot of people that have toe problems also have high arches or need a higher volume insole. Part of the problem is that your feet are moving forward throughout the pedal stroke and over time and your toes are "digging in" to try to hold them in position. I'd bet if you took your insoles out you're seeing the most wear right at your toes. I owned insoles where I wore all the way through them at the big toe.
-Varus wedges. Go on amazon and get a set of cleat wedges, there are apps that can take pictures of your feet while they dangle off the back off a chair when you're on your knees and can recommend how many shims to use. I have (2) 1deg shims under each of my cleats.
-Get an actual bike fit. It sucks to wait until you're injured before you get a fit. I rode my bike *for years* without changing anything and all the sudden developed debilitating knee pain and we ended up making wholesale changes to my fit. We spent like 3 hours working on my cleat position, saddle position, and saddle model. We didn't even bother with my handle bars.

hey thanks for the posts. At my lbs's bike fits aren't currently available due to covid. I am going to get a pair of the bontrager insoles, probably the red ones as my arches aren't particularly high but I sent them an email.

I looked at my current insoles and I'm not noticing any additional wear at the toes, but the shoes are relatively new and I don't ride a ton so I think that's probably the more likely explanation.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

I will say that if your feet are significantly different in the arch area, the G8 2620 insole is pretty great, but expensive. It lets you change the height and position of the arch support on each foot, which was a big deal for me. The downside (beside cost) is that even the lowest arch insert is pretty high. If you get along fine with regular inserts in your non-bike shoes, they might be overkill.

If it matters, insoles in regular shoes for me are just to add some extra thickness for comfort, I wasn't having any toe numbness.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

update, went to the lbs and found out i actually have pretty high arches, got the bontrager insole in blue (the highest arch version). also it was mentioned that your feet get slightly longer over time, and when the person looked at how my foot fit in the shoe, she said I might need to size up 1/2 if the insole doesn't resolve the issue.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

turns out I need wide shoes to alleviate the toe numbness issues. The bontrager velocis in 46W instead of 46 was really comfortable. Unfortunately many shoes are apparently not made in wide sizes so I have to spend more money!

that BOA dial is pretty cool though I have to admit

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Aug 23, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

LordOfThePants posted:

If you find a place with a decent selection, I'd love to know about it. I'm going through the same thing myself right now. I've got an old pair of Shimano mtb wide shoes that have been great, but they're starting to break down and I need a new pair.

The XC-501's in blue look awesome, they just seem rare in wide sizes. I've yet to find a place that has either the wide 501 or 701's in stock in my size

this is the LBS I use for trek/bontrager stuff https://www.freewheelbike.com/

After talking to trek I'll be trying the circuit shoes on, it's confusing because they said the 46W velocis has a similar toe box to the 46 circuit, but the circuit is similar to the solstice, but the velocis fits well and the solstice doesn't...

so if you need a wider shoe, you don't necessarily need a wide size depending on the shoe toe box width.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 23, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I ended up getting the bontrager circuit shoe in 46, it had just a slightly wider toebox which was all I needed.

not sure why they are slightly different, but my incredible complex analysis shows that it is definitely a bit wider, especially on the right side

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 23, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I went for a ride with the new shoe. Overall it's better thankfully but still needs some adjustments. I attached a picture of my cleat positioning on the right shoe, which is all the way back, facing forward and centered as much as I can.

First 20-30 minute left foot felt fine, right foot felt some pin pricks in the big toe (my right foot is 1/2 inch longer than the left). I stopped and loosened the right one a bit which helped. After maybe 45 min though I started getting these little pin prick feelings in different spots on the bottom of both feet, and soon after the toes on both feet numbed up. I never had any numbness going up the leg though.

Should I try moving both cleats up a few mm next time? Do people with different length feet tend to have their cleats in different positions to adjust?

on a side note, trying to walk in these makes me wonder how women walk in high heels. it's so weird, and I know there are MUCH stiffer shoes out there.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

TobinHatesYou posted:

You're kind of a moron.

TobinHatesYou posted:

Every step you take, watching flooring break. And then slipping and dying.

wow cool man great posts

I'm okay with slipping and dying because that would mean escaping this hellworld, but maybe in the meantime post something related to what I'm asking about otherwise just gently caress off

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Aug 24, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Did you loosen more? How far in the adjustment range were you?

no, I only biked for like an hour so I just dealt with it for another 15 minutes. I'm not sure how to quantify how loose they are, you mean how far did I have the BOA dial turned? I'll have them a bit looser next time and also make note of that - thanks. Sounds like you're thinking find the best looseness first before going on to other adjustments?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Tingling still seems like it's tight. Did you run these with the stock insoles, or the ones you bought?

I returned the insoles, I figured a new shoe was going to be 46w or 47 - didn't think ahead. So these were with stock. I'm certainly open to that again but want to try other stuff first - I think the loosening idea sounds good.

Can I ask what kind of issues would result from having a cleat too far forward or back? Is it not tingling but some other sensations? or is cleat movement more of a fine grain adjustment that you do later.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Aug 24, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

mikemelbrooks posted:

In a earlier post you said you had leg vein surgery? Could this in any way impact your problem? Also the only use case for your shoes with SPDs like this is for a spin bike, where you walk to the bike bare footed and take them off straight away. Shimano make a converter for 3 bolt to two bolt that at least let’s you walk with out the risk of falling. Also SPDs concentrate all the force of your pedaling into a very small area.
My advice talk to you someone about your surgery, ride with your shoes a little looser, don’t mash the pedals, and if you can afford it buy some road pedals.
Leave your cleats alone, and people with leg length discrepancies usually are recommended to put shims under the cleats.
https://www.bikester.co.uk/shimano-...5BoC6QIQAvD_BwE

Hi, yes the leg vein surgery could be related, though I'm having issues on my left leg as well and that wasn't operated on. They said I was fine to bike again a few days after it was completed - it was a minimally invasive procedure. I did have to wear a compression stocking at all times including biking for a while. Also the shoe I was using was definitely too small in the toe box, I and the LBS people definitely noticed that, especially in the right one. I am already using the shimano converter so I could use my existing cleats and pedals with these shoes like in the picture. That's also why I got the circuit shoe instead of the velocis.

I'm definitely open to getting road pedals and SPD-SLs at some point down the line, I just want to figure out the numbness part first. Also the road pedals at all my LBS's here were out of stock and I wanted to get on my bike again, hence at least for the time being I bought the $10 converter. Previously I was using a more casual shoe (solstice) so going to one that was a bit stiffer it did feel a bit more awkward.

Also I'm not sure if this is relevant or not, but I don't have a road bike, I have a cx bike. Not that I do any cx stuff, I just like the flexibility.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Aug 24, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

hoping for greige personally

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

anyone end up with heel achiness after riding with new shoes for the first time? rode on Sunday, felt it on Monday, overnight and this morning. only on the right foot.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

The bottom of the heel, like muscle ache? Or the back of the heel? How tight does the shoe cup your heel?


bottom of the heel, and also some achiness on the balls of the feet. Not sure in regards to your second question, next time I ride I will have the shoes looser and see if it happens again.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I biked again, same route, same hot weather (90s) but had my new shoes on quite a bit looser. Definitely an improvement.

Basically when tightening, right after the last BOA wire thing touched the tongue I tried leaving it there on both feet. This is loose enough such that when pedaling, you can feel the heel move up just slightly on each rotation when your leg is moving upwards. After like 30 minutes my feet felt pretty much fine, except on my left foot there was a slight sensation which I couldn't distinguish between a hotspot and numbness. Also when I got off my bike I had some crotch numbness. After hiding behind a sign where I had been touching my crotch, I tightened both shoes a tad. This felt pretty much fine on the way back - I could feel my heel still moving up a tad but it was a very tiny amount. I also felt the area below my ankle move up slightly while pedaling. At the end of my ride (another 30 minutes), I got some light numbness in my right toes.

I think my plan for next time is to keep it on the loosest setting (right after the last BOA wire makes contact with the tongue) on the right, and slightly tighter than that on the left.

Also the velcro strap isn't especially loose or tight. It's fully covering the part where it attaches, no more and no less.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003


I've never heard of that. After looking up some more info (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEeSJoul8F4) the "A" measurement at 32 seconds into that video is about 3.5 inches, so double that is 7 inches or 178 mm. My bottom bracket is a Praxis works M24 if that helps at all.

I know I can't really make this distance shorter, but do you think maybe I should at least adjust my cleats a bit so my stance width is slightly less? move the right shoe cleat to the right a bit, and the left one to the left.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Aug 27, 2020

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

the best part about biking in fall is the crackling of leaves beneath your tires, and also the fact that the water in my bottle magically transforms into delicious apple cider

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

has anyone been able to fix crotch numbness with one of those no-nose (or other non-standard) seats? I think I'm going to have to give it a try. Here is my bike, I've read you want the saddle to be 1-2 inches above the handlebars, not sure if that's a hard and fast rule, but right now they are at about the same height. If I lower the seat I will get knee pain, if I raise the seat I will generally get crotch numbness more quickly. Right now it takes about 25-30 minutes to set in.

My legs are quite long relative to the rest of my body - I'm 6'1" and I had to get an omg huge office chair for this (over 18" seat depth, 20.5" chair height). It does seem like my seat should be higher when I'm looking at full leg extension when the pedal is at the lowest position, but as I said that gives me the crotch issues. I had the handlebar and height and reach checked by someone who used to work in a bike shop so I'm pretty sure I'm okay in that area.

A few I found:

https://www.freewheelbike.com/product/ergon-sr-comp-men-349177-1.htm
https://www.freewheelbike.com/product/bontrager-verse-comp-bike-saddle-383422-1.htm

I will go in and get some measurements on my rear end done

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:37 on May 31, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

HAIL eSATA-n posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxRVphhR_Ww

Every'body different. If your bits are going numb you may need a differently shaped saddle, one with a cutout, to point it couple degrees up or down, or move it a few mm back or forward.

thanks!

I measured my inseam using this at just under 33", which should give me a 29" height from the crank center to the top of the saddle. Mine is currently 27 3/4"! So it should definitely be higher, which makes sense because I'm definitely not getting that full extension when the pedal is at the bottom like in the video.

I'm going to set it at that for now, but I would still expect crotch issues, so I will go in and get measured for a saddle - mine is 145 mm which is almost certainly not wide enough for my giant rear end. I'll also get one that has some opening in the middle for my junk

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

CopperHound posted:

Ask local shops if they have demo saddles or if they do exchanges for saddles. Most shops will want the money up front, but it is better than buying random saddles with hope that you get lucky and buy the right one for you.

this place sells Bontrager and they said they have a 30 day full refund policy for their stuff if I'm unhappy

I think they will do the "sitz bones" measurement. I would guess I will actually need 155 or 165 mm

my guess, or maybe my hope, is that the current saddle is what is preventing me from being at the proper height, which is definitely 1-2 inches higher than where I am right now.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

CopperHound posted:

Okay. I don't know of short nose helping at all, but try stuff with a cut out if you can't fix numbness with saddle angle.

yeah this is the one I'm probably going to look at first since it has a nice junk cutout

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...saddle/p/32222/

Is 270 mm a standard saddle length? Mine is around 285

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