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the kickr core is not in stock so they're sending me a kickr v6 instead
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Feb 2, 2024 16:52
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Anyone got any tips for cleaning white foam bar tape? It's Shimano pro stuff if it matters.
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Feb 3, 2024 05:47
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Havana Affair posted:The brifters have a wrong cable pull for the brakes of your bike and won't work with them. It has Hayes MX-5s which need a V-brake lever and V-brake brifters don't really exist (except Gevenalles but I think they're silly). If you want to put brifters on that bike the easiest solution would be to also replace the brakes with something that uses a road pull. There's some mechanical Shimano ones at least that are okay and pretty cheap. Otherwise they should work though the front derailler on that bike is nominally an MTB one and the brifters might need a road one but this is really hard to say before hand. Gevenelles own. And Sensah makes some long pull brifters. E:because I am a dingus. Leroy Diplowski fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 15:52
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Leroy Diplowski posted:Gevenelles own. I was really confused by this but short pull = road pull which is what everyone makes. Do you mean they make a long pull brifter compatible with v brakes?
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Feb 3, 2024 16:39
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Havana Affair posted:I was really confused by this but short pull = road pull which is what everyone makes. Do you mean they make a long pull brifter compatible with v brakes? Yes I was so excited to say that gevenelles own that I typed short instead of long
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Feb 3, 2024 16:42
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What's the model? I was trying to look it up but couldn't find it.
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Feb 3, 2024 16:51
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Havana Affair posted:What's the model? I was trying to look it up but couldn't find it. Leroy Diplowski fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 17:04
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Ok I did my homework here's the setup we went with: The shifters are sensah ignite shifters and the brakes are Shimano m-495 (which according to Shimano are comparable with v-brake levers.) I did some searching for the exact pull length from sensah and didn't see anything other than one inconclusive bikeforums post, but they appear to be pulling around 11mm on the bike right now and I'm pretty sure that's in the realm of what long pull should be pulling installed.
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Feb 3, 2024 20:21
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Here's hoping this is helpful.
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Feb 3, 2024 20:22
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I'm guessing they have the Shimano new slr cable pull which is somewhere between short and long pull. Or Sensah might be doing completely their own thing. That isn't really enough for a long pull though, measured like that I'm seeing 15mm online. If I'm thinking this right you get more power but the pads move very little as you pull the lever so you have to adjust the pads to have very little clearance and when they wear down you might end up with the lever hitting the bar before the pads touching the disc. But of course if it works it works and I'm not there trying your setup.
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Feb 4, 2024 09:05
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I spent an exorbitant amount of money on an Old Man Mountain Elkhorn and fit kit thru axle and..  You'd think that because it's mounted directly to an axle it'd be very easy to get it all to sit square, but it's sprung really badly inwards (and not squarely inwards, either). I'd have to bend out *round tubing* over an inch to get the deck installed, which IMO would put a crazy amount of force on the thru axle. I can probably make this work but it's already going to be annoying to deal with removing the front wheel. Dealing with that and a really badly fitting rack is going to be extra annoying any time I have a flat or need to get the bike shoved into a car (rare, but still). I kind of expect this sort of fit from a normal rack when bending is part of the install, but this one slips *over* the axle and registers directly on it, so no matter how I bend it, it's going to change the centerline of the attachment at the bottom.
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Feb 4, 2024 20:35
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I'd certainly hit OMM up about it and see if they'll send a replacement that doesn't have the problem. And light them up if they don't at least process a full refund. And in that worst case scenario, I would probably would put the base of that round tube in some rags on a vise and bend it over the whole inch.
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Feb 5, 2024 05:14
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How long do brifters last before they start to wear out? Would ones that have done 25k start to be a bit sloppy ?
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Feb 5, 2024 18:42
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wibble posted:How long do brifters last before they start to wear out? Good ones would prob last longer but that's about what I'd expect for third-tier Shimano ones for example. Or: skill issue, shift less
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Feb 5, 2024 20:31
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kimbo305 posted:I'd certainly hit OMM up about it and see if they'll send a replacement that doesn't have the problem. And light them up if they don't at least process a full refund.
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Feb 6, 2024 13:10
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I’ve been using loctite wrong this whole time  https://www.instagram.com/reel/C19IBMWs7lf/?igsh=NzJheXI5eG4yYXdr One comment that makes sense: 
kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 16:00
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There's one guy in the comments claiming to be a Loctite engineer. He makes a pretty good point about how the blob was applied and the character of the hole changing mid-test - but then he keeps calling it a screw, not a bolt. I think he's cosplaying - unless he means the full technical definition of "machine screw", which, gah.
meltie fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 23:39
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meltie posted:There's one guy in the comments claiming to be a Loctite engineer. He makes a pretty good point about how the blob was applied and the character of the hole changing mid-test - but then he keeps calling it a screw, not a bolt. I think he's cosplaying - unless he means the full technical definition of "machine screw", which, gah. Dude is an actual Henkel employee.
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Feb 7, 2024 11:52
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meltie posted:There's one guy in the comments claiming to be a Loctite engineer. He makes a pretty good point about how the blob was applied and the character of the hole changing mid-test - but then he keeps calling it a screw, not a bolt. I think he's cosplaying - unless he means the full technical definition of "machine screw", which, gah. I always thought a bolt has to be threaded into a nut, anything else is a screw. I worked for a few years in machining and this is just what was passed onto me from the actual machinists.
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Feb 7, 2024 12:02
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I built my first wheel this weekend. Shout-out to my local coop for use of a spoke tension meter and truing stand. I chose the Shimano dynamo hub over the SP because it's rebuildable and a SON isn't in the budget. Rim is velo orange voyager 26" and spokes are butted. Should be a beast.
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Feb 7, 2024 14:06
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I recently stripped out my front thru-axle, and now I'm finally getting around to replacing it. I've used/seen on other peoples bike a type of thru axle that has a lever that is adjustable after tightening. My original axle had a little lever/allen key that was ok, but now I'm fixated on this new shiny lever. Basically one of these: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/rws/12-mm My problem is that none of the versions of this that I have found precisely match my needed axle (thread pitch wrong on that link, for example). I actually would be happy with just a detachable lever that did this, and went as far as to order one of the DT Swiss levers without the axle. Problem was, the lever wouldn't actually snap into my stock lever (a not stripped one for testing). So while it could turn the axle, it also would fall out pretty easily. Does anyone have any websites or google-fu tips on finding this? maybe a specific name for this type of axle lever? Erluk fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 17:26
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Call everything a threaded fastener, problem solved.
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Feb 8, 2024 10:34
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evil_bunnY posted:Call everything a threaded fastener, problem solved. When I call something a fastener my non-mechanical friends look at me like I just grew a third arm
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Feb 8, 2024 13:57
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SimonSays posted:When I call something a fastener my non-mechanical friends look at me like I just grew a third arm
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Feb 8, 2024 14:05
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SimonSays posted:my non-mechanical friends look at me like I just grew a third fastener
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Feb 8, 2024 14:36
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SimonSays posted:When I call something a fastener my non-mechanical friends look at me like I just grew a third arm
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Feb 8, 2024 14:42
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I need saddle input. Any advice is appreciated. It's for a bakfiets style cargobike with a bolt upright riding position and pretty bumpy handling. I want the saddle to be wide and ideally well sprung for some amount of suspension. The saddle must withstand being rained on a lot without getting ruined or absorbing rain water only to later inject it into the rider's rear end. The comfiest saddle I've used on the bike so far is the Selle Royal Drifter. These work great for about a year until there's delamination or cracks forming leading to water problems. Brooks saddles don't really like rain in the long run I think? Never had one. I have no experience with suspension seat posts but I'm open to the idea of putting the springyness there rather than in the saddle if it would solve the saddle issue long term. The post is 25.0 mm which isn't super common and because of the wonky frame geometry (high rake angle and a lot of stickout) I've had issues with off-the-shelf steel tube seat posts bending until I got a custom lathe job out of massive aluminium that has held up great. Anyways, have lathe now, willing to turn if necessary.
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Feb 23, 2024 14:10
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You could try the widest Brooks cambium, c67 I think. The all weather coating isn't bothered by rain. For wide saddles I like the wtb Koda but that isn't sprung but padded.
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Feb 23, 2024 15:14
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I like the WTB Rocket in wide. Bonus is that it is quite affordable too.
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Feb 23, 2024 15:19
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The WTB rocket looks too skinny, it looks more like something I might put on my commuter bike. I need something more akin to what you would find on a cruiser. For reference this is the Selle Royal Drifter which is comfy for about an hour at a time which is all I need on this bike: If I were to go the Brooks route without needing a sprung seat post I think a B135 would be more like what I'm looking for:  But the not-leather all weather coating of the C67 is interesting, especially if it's long lasting. Also it's "only" €130 which is cheap for a brooks it seems. I guess I'll read some reviews and research seat post suspension. Getting away from springs in the saddle itself would give more options for sure.
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Feb 23, 2024 16:50
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B67 or Champion Flyer (more like a sprung B17, not as wide) if you want springs. B135 doesn't have normal rails so you'd need a matching post, I think. I'd go B67 and not worry about rain. I used a Flyer for years in UK all year round, no problems.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:21
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So it looks like a suspension seatpost worth having would take some doing and need a real budget. Because of geometry (high rake) a telescoping mechanism wouldn't work well which leaves the ones with parallel links. I think elastomers are suboptimal for me since I ride this bike year round, it's bumpiest in the winter and cold rubber gets hard. I think I'd rather have coil springs. Since it's a very old bike with a 25 mm skinny post I can't find anything off the shelf that would fit and I would have to modify. Many designs have the spring inside the tube with preload adjustment at the bottom which would be a machining job requiring real skill (if I could even fit the spring inside a tube skinny enough which is doubtful), but something like the Kinect 2.1 looks like I could just lop off the factory tube and turn something up that would fit fairly easily:  So not cheap, requiring significant warranty voiding modifications and a successful outcome not guaranteed seems like the best option I've found so far. The brooks champion flyer looks sweet but I'm not sure a leather saddle is a good idea for my use case. Riding in rain is one thing but this bike gets parked outside more often than not - I don't have space in the shed for both it and the motorcycle which gets indoor priority so unless it's winter and the moto is in remote storage this bike lives outside. I would like to avoid having to mess with a saddle cover if possible.
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Feb 24, 2024 07:54
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Everyone around me just uses a plastic grocery or bread bag, you stuff it between the saddle rails, hop on, and go on your merry dry-butt way But if you prefer the impossibly complicated way that's cool too
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Feb 24, 2024 14:26
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Reckon a steel bike that is stored outside in the rain 24/7 is going to have an inoperable groupset, etc long before the saddle gives up, but fair enough. Mine was a commuter, stored at the office outdoors in the rain. I put a plastic bag over the saddle while at work if it was a wet day.
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Feb 24, 2024 15:09
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I've had this bike for I think 12 years now, it's been outside almost all that time. There's been some corrosion issues but nothing unfixable so far, in fact it's probably in better shape than it's ever been. I had to replace the tin work and do some rust repairs and repaint the frame last year but I think a rebuild every decade or so is acceptable. It has internal gears and a chain guard with good coverage so the drivetrain fares well compared to my derailleured main commuter bike (always parked indoors) I also ride in the winter which is a real maintenance hog. Road salt isn't fun. You'd think that wanting a comfortable yet long lasting and properly waterproof bike saddle in TYOOL 2024 shouldn't be asking for the impossible seeing as motorcycles have them but maybe I'm just overly optimistic about the current state of technology.
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Feb 24, 2024 15:59
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There is, it's called a sprung leather saddle and it's existed for about 130 years. The waterproofing comes from the free and convenient plastic bag you keep between the rails when your bike isn't stored out in the endless driving rain, and from the leather treatment you smear on the saddle once a year.
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Feb 24, 2024 18:13
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One plus from the plastic bag is also that around here brooks' are sought after by bike thieves so a plastic bag from the closest grocery store is decent camouflage for it.
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Feb 24, 2024 18:59
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I would simply build the seat out of plastic bag
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Feb 24, 2024 20:06
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I think I have sticky pistons on both front and rear calipers. When I brake I sometimes get extra rubbing afterwards. I've tried removing the pads and pushing the pistons back in but they don't want to go all the way back in, and they just get stuck again and rub. I read a tip about rubbing DOT fluid onto the pistons after pushing them out a bit extra, then pushing them in again. Any other ways to get them moving again more nicely, or could it be a different problem entirely even?
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Mar 14, 2024 21:09
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| # ? Apr 30, 2024 06:35 |
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Being unable to push the pistons in all the way suggests that the reservoir may be overfilled. This can happen if the brakes are bled without a bleed block installed, or if the fluid is topped up later. Some people do it intentionally to make the brakes bite earlier in the level travel. Downsides include likelihood of brake rub.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:24
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