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I like my Codes. I hated my Guides. I need to bleed my Rivals. That’s my SRAM brake story.
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Sep 3, 2020 05:36
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a foolish pianist posted:I posted about smashing my bike off the roof rack of my car a while ago: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933899&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=38#post507880717 I think that's fine.
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Sep 16, 2020 19:04
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Clark Nova posted:People just call all quick links "connex." Please respect the connex trademark or else, uh, nothing will happen I don't think this is true, btw. Connex refers to a type of quick link sold by a specific company.
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Oct 2, 2020 21:50
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Clark Nova posted:
VideoGameVet posted:Well, look what happened to the word Xerox. Y’all are right. I’m bringing fake news to the bike thread.
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Oct 3, 2020 03:32
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pretty sure I've heard it used interchangeably, on this forum and others
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kgibson posted:What is everyone’s preferred method or implement to add sealant to tubeless tires? I’ve been unseating the tire and pouring sealant in but am growing to realize how stupid and irritating that is. It's either that or removing the valve core and using an injector to push it through the valve.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:59
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I have used the Stans one forever and it seems fine
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Oct 13, 2020 21:47
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Depending on what type of brakes you’re talking about that is not necessarily true re: new brakes. SRAM road hydro levers and brakes are almost $500 for Rival level. I also know some people who tour online like how its easier to fix mech on the road
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Nov 23, 2020 16:01
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Levitate posted:Do I need an adapter to change from a FSA crank with a press fit BB (this is an older Cervelo frame so I think it's a BBright style)? I don't need to swap the BB for any particular reason but changing from the FSA crank it came with to a R7000 crank...Shimano documation doesn't mention anything for using their BBs but seems like wheels manufacturing makes an adapter...? Not sure how or if it’s changed but when i moved to a Shimano crank on a press fit frame i had to get a new BB.
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Dec 16, 2020 15:50
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If you hit them, just use some isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel and wipe them down.
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Jan 10, 2021 15:59
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Either way, if the chain was used too long that wouldn’t be out of the ordinary for needing to replace the cassette and maybe chainrings.
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Feb 28, 2021 17:37
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If you are getting one for bottom bracket use, make sure it can measure torque in the counterclockwise direction. Not all of them do and I almost screwed up as a result of expecting a click that never came.
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Mar 6, 2021 01:48
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Some things I'd do to check things out: > Take your wheels off, clean the rotors with a shop towel and some isopropyl alcohol. > Take your pads out. Check and see how much material is left. If you have 3 business cards around, that's a good depth that if you're close or below, changing out the pads is a good idea. > If your pads have enough material left, I would take some sand paper and sand off the top layer. Be sure when you put everything back together you bed things back in to make sure you're braking power is OK before going out on a ride. As for the rubbing, you might be able to center it up by eye, but I haven't done it with mechanical discs in a while so I'm unsure what the easiest tricks are. With hydros it's not too bad.
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Mar 26, 2021 01:21
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If you tap around the cracks along the frame, does sound change much? Hard to tell really from a photo. Could easily be just cosmetic.
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Apr 7, 2021 21:40
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sweat poteto posted:Whoops, not apex as Kimbo said. If you're not getting a complete group, I'd get a different chainset like praxis or Easton ea90 that take DM rings. Easier to swap and unambiguous compatibility. Second this. The EA90 is a great crank, but you do need a tool to swap rings.
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Apr 11, 2021 14:57
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Rear tires wear faster for everyone. Some people when in the situation you are throw the rear out, move the front to the rear and buy a new front tire. The idea being you want your front to be in best condition because of how important it is when riding. Tires can make a big difference in how your bike rides, brakes, and grips in turns. So should you upgrade? Part of this is a function of what you are running now, part is how much money you are looking to spend. If things are tight, buying one tire is certainly cheaper and you could even buy a nicer one if you wanted. “Nicer” here would be just better matching the tire to the type of riding you are doing these days over what the bike was originally built with by the manufacturer. What tires are you currently running? Do you have any issues with them currently? Like they are draggy on the MUPs or don’t give you much grip on the MTB trails. In general, you’d probably want to run XC tires that are fast rolling, especially in the back, with something a little gripper up front. Example tires might be a Bontrager XR1 or XR2, Vittoria Mezcal, Maxxis Aspens or Rekon Race.
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Apr 15, 2021 09:08
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He says that he is riding green level trails too. I doubt he wants a pure slick. A tire like this is probably about as good as you could do in the back https://www.vittoria.com/us/en/tires/mtb-xc/terreno
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Apr 15, 2021 14:37
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ExecuDork posted:Thanks everyone, lots to look into - I especially appreciate the specific tire names, great starting place. I have some reading to do. Plot twist: I'm in Australia, we'll see what's available. Yes, you’ll be fine. That said, going tubeless especially if you do ride trails might be something to consider in the future.
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Apr 16, 2021 02:38
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Tubeless is also something once you get used to it isn’t that bad. Ymmv of course
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Apr 16, 2021 13:32
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VelociBacon posted:I just get irritated thinking about the sealant going hard in my wheels while my bikes sit in my apartment between use. I know it's not a huge deal, you just add more, etc but I can't stop myself from going over and spinning the wheels all the time to move it and I just generally don't like the idea of having a mess inside my wheel that weighs not nothing when you keep adding sealant every season. Ehhh. Good thing no one is going to come twist your arm and make you do it. If tubes work for you, rock n roll
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Apr 16, 2021 19:38
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(1) I normally just grease and torque to spec but don’t guess threadlocker would hurt? (2) No grease, but will use carbon paste if carbon is involved.
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May 6, 2021 05:39
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I was working on bikes earlier today and checked and I didn’t have have any grease on cockpit stuff, so sorry for bad info there. I do use carbon paste though on bars and seat posts. (Edit: when carbon is involved before a goon flips there mind and misreads this.)
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May 6, 2021 17:26
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Depending on budget, Shimano SLX brakes are a nice sweet spot in price and functionality.
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May 22, 2021 14:31
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Organic pads are fine ime. No reason to write them off. Quieter with good initial bite.
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May 24, 2021 14:25
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I've had to warranty Maxxis tires that had a wobble to them. It's not unheard of.
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May 25, 2021 21:38
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Plastic tire levers also work just as well as a screwdriver for pushing pistons back in.
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May 26, 2021 15:44
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Centering rotors can be a pain, honestly. Just be patient and take your time. You'll eventually get it.
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May 26, 2021 15:59
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah plastic is a better idea. This is a good starting point IME, but doesn't fix it all of the time.
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May 26, 2021 18:57
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Pennywise the Frown posted:It snapped off. Yep. As kimbo said though, make sure the valve stem is long enough.
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May 27, 2021 01:28
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eSporks posted:Don't listen to this ignorance. I don't know why anyone would opt to have the majority of their grip be hard plastic. Lock ons are for lazy people. Ergon grips are all use a bolt to go on/off. So they are for lazy people? You’re just be lovely and dumb in a different way. Congratulations!
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Jun 11, 2021 15:51
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever. It’s not wrong and is usually good enough to get it right or get you in a good starting point to tweak by hand.
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Jun 12, 2021 05:42
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Also depending on your crank, it may be recommended by the manufacturer. Easy to google and check the manual.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:21
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If you need an axle in the bike you just use the TA. I can’t see a reason to use QA.
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Jun 3, 2022 13:07
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Nyyen posted:It will coast a bit. Wouldn't that possibly cook the pads though? No
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Jun 26, 2022 16:01
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The sram issue was in the lever not the piston in the caliper.
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Aug 26, 2022 20:50
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It was present on guide brakes sold the generation before the g2 ones.
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Aug 27, 2022 03:30
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Dave Rome has 2 good articles on torque wrenches at CyclingTips that were just released. Good intro to using them and what to look for. Lots of different styles that touch different price points.
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Oct 18, 2022 18:54
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Either move them toward the stem or use the other side of the paddle where you are pushing toward the brake lever, not into the bars. If you can adjust angle of shifter and brakes independently you may also be able to angle it in a way where movement works both ways in current position.
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Feb 13, 2023 21:42
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You need to go toward the stem or use the button the other way (away from the bars).
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Feb 22, 2023 02:05
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Suburban Dad posted:Cranks back on but now have more questions. I've heard some fox forks come blobbed with too much grease in them so they can't equalize pressure. I wonder if mine has this issue because it makes a hissing noise after every compression and appears to have a shitload packed down in there when removing the air valve. My 34 Rhythm (130mm rhythm vs 140mm factory, both 34s) doesn't make this noise at all so something seems off. IME, Fox dampers have a bit of a sound to them. The grease thing could still be an issue. It was with mine.
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Apr 24, 2023 22:31
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:My gravel bike (Orbea Terra) says not to use spacers above the stem. Is that likely specific to the stem, rather than any other reason? I want to try out a lower stem position but I don't want to commit to cutting the steerer just yet. Could I swap out the stem and use spacers above temporarily? It's likely because you have a carbon steerer and the expansion plug provides support behind the stem when tightened down. This recommendation by bike companies is common. If you eventually cut the steerer once you settle on a position, you should be fine. If you want to be sensitive to the manual, you can buy a cheap stem with a big negative angle to approximate the new position but leaves the stem at the top of the steerer. If you have a round steerer tube, you can also buy a long plug to provide support further down the steerer. You can use https://www.bikegeocalc.com to approximate positions with different stems, etc. if you want to compare things.
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May 12, 2023 17:23
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