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This old Quintana Roo popped up on facebook, and I can't help but admire those bars. No listed size, but it's listed as having 650 wheels and being "too small" for the current owner to . It looks to me like it's a 650 front 700 rear from the picture. I really don't need to throw $250 at an old TT bike that probably doesn't fit me, but a part of me certainly wants to. E: oops, meant to put this in the main thread, but oh well. Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Aug 6, 2020 |
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Aug 6, 2020 13:26
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 20:45 |
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Does anyone else get great entertainment out of the RJ the Bike Guy videos on YouTube? Like, I understand that the Park Tool videos are gonna show me the right way to do things, be but sometimes I need the right now way to do things, and RJ often supplies them. Plus you get some bonus "let's see what happens" stuff like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdXz6F0Gaas *Stabs tube with knife*
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Aug 8, 2020 00:17
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BeastPussy posted:are the 5k sidewalls better than the 4k where they were made out of paper? I keep seeing people say this and I was super worried when my GP4k II's got some wear and minor gouges, but I've yet to ever see any negative effects hundreds of miles later and it has me wondering if the concerns about GP4Ks are true in the land of "My anecdote vs your anecdote."
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Aug 18, 2020 02:01
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I'm truing a wheel after replacing a broken spoke. Because I'd had it in my head to replace all of them until I figured out what that would cost me relative to the cost of the wheel, I had de-tensioned all of the spokes and had to tighten them back up. Now, I've got the wheel within 1mm true laterally, but it's not totally round. There's a decently long high spot that's about 2mm high, and a some other small variations. I've tried tightening the spokes in the high spot and it hasn't done much, if anything, and I don't want to over-tighten them. I've tried grabbing/gripping (idk what to call it) the spokes to work out tension. I have no idea if it's dished, and I know I should probably get my hands on a dishing stick (or make a DIY 2x4 one). Should I try to work out the other inconsistencies and see what happens to the big one? Should I start over? Should I follow the one buddy's advice of "Put a tube and tire on it, that'll fix any small roundness variations in the rim?"
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Oct 9, 2020 00:30
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I'm at my wit's end trying to stop the rear wheel of my road bike from popping tubes since I rebuilt it. It's always on the inside of the rim over a spoke hole. It's a double-walled rim and no spokes are poking out of the holes. I'm at the point where I've wrapped layers of electrical tape over the rim tape and out past the edges just to try and keep it from happening and still in under 10 minutes on the rollers the loving tube pops right against a spoke hole. What on earth do I need to do to just be able to ride my goddamn bicycle? Anyone thinking of posting "just go tubeless" is welcome to send me the cash for a new set of wheels.
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Nov 4, 2020 00:47
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bicievino posted:Are you using velox rim tape? If not, why not? All other rim tapes for tubed systems are inferior. I ordered velox and got sent an off-brand fabric tape instead because it was out of stock. I assumed that at the point where I'm covering it in electrical tape that it wouldn't matter any more, but latest puncture doesn't inspire confidence there.
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Nov 4, 2020 02:06
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Tomorrow, probably. The punctures themselves are always tiny single holes. No snakebite, no obvious deformation around it, more like a 1mm split. I can double check to see if they're even in the same place on the tubes. E: Oddly enough, it was fine for 21 miles outdoors before the weather turned, but putting the bike on rollers has been a mess. I was hoping to be confident riding it this weekend since we're going to be back up in the 70s.
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Nov 4, 2020 02:28
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bicievino posted:Can you post a picture of the puncture and the spot on the rim that caused it? This is what punctures always look like:  This is the location of the puncture last night, about 2 o clock if the valve hole is noon:  This is where I punctured the time before, though that was before the electrical tape, about 10 o clock:  I haven't tried another repair yet. To be honest, a part of me just wants to pick up a cheapo set of secondhand rims on FB marketplace and say gently caress these wheels. Problems with them in one way or another have kept me from riding for months of prime weather despite my constant efforts to fix them and I'm really fed up. On the other hand, I don't know that a cheapo secondhand set of wheel won't just be a new set of problems. There are a couple basic 10spd rim brake clinchers for $150 or less (not including shipping) that I'm tempted by (and some beat up 90s specialized tri-spokes for $350 that I shouldn't buy, rad as they look).
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Nov 5, 2020 01:39
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eSporks posted:Coward. Make your own. Two brands of tubes purchased years apart, no levers for installation, punctures aren’t in the same area as the last bit of head over the rim. Quite sure about the orientation by now. None of it makes sense.
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Nov 5, 2020 04:08
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LBS had some velox tape, and the 5min test spin I had time for didn't blow a tube, so maybe that's really what it was. I'll know for sure when I try for a longer ride. It amazes me that the difference between tape brands could be that significant, but there you are.
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Nov 5, 2020 21:36
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eSporks posted:Velox is stiff, electrical tape is stretchy and can sink in to the spoke holes after inflation. It was electrical tape on top of cloth rim tape before, which was why I was so amazed and frustrated.
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Nov 5, 2020 22:07
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35 min warming up on the rollers during a zoom lecture and then 30 miles outside without trouble, maybe it's a poltergeist with an extremely specific brand loyalty.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:48
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Is there a term for chainrings that are fused to the crank arm on cheap square taper cranksets? The example I have looks like the chainring is held on by one giant rivet in the center. Out of curiosity, I've tried googling about every set of descriptive terms I can think of for them and I've come up with nothing.
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May 5, 2021 03:20
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Yes, that's exactly it! Thank you!
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May 5, 2021 03:45
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The cranks that came on my beater fixie were...not good. In addition to the swaging failing and letting the crank arms and chainring shift independently of each other, the chainring itself was not at all straight: https://imgur.com/7kzzwDr Also, one of the pedal straps broke. Both of these things are hot garbage:  So I finally managed to order replacements from somewhere that wasn't lying about what they had in stock, and I ran into a problem with clearance:  This is before tightening the cranks down. Once they're on tight, these bits overlap by a mm or a bit more, and cranky no turny. However, the chainline with them is spot on. I'm weighing my options: 1. Get a 130 BCD chainset instead of the 144 BCD ones pictured above, and hope that they clear. This might be the most responsible option, but it also means dealing with returns and shipping and finding a new crankset. 2. Get a new wider bottom bracket. Messes up the chain line, but avoids dealing with returns. I don't particularly like this option. 3. Grind the corners off the offending parts of the chainring. Also not a fan of this either since I would probably have to go far enough to hit the screws holding the ring on. 4. Hit the chainstay with a hammer and put a dent in there so the cranks clear. I'm more tempted by this option than I should be. It's definitely the "not done right, but done right now" solution and the bike's a cheap beater anyway so... Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 20:45
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evil_bunnY posted:Don't grind the corner, grind the whole thing flat. Too late, already return shipped em. We'll see if 130BCD does it (the new cranks are supposed to arrive tomorrow), and if not I may get the angle grinder or file out yet. I'm hoping not to need to. Edit: I do see why that's a better idea though, thanks for the tip! Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 05:03
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I did the thing and it worked. Moving from a 48t to a 46t chainring makes the bike a little easier to goof around with, plus gets me off the dreaded 48/16 ratio. With that done, I'm considering this bike finished. It's a pretty fun toy. 
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Jul 7, 2021 03:48
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:How unergonomic is that bar end brake lever mounted on the drops? It seems like it would be less than ideal Riding in the drops it’s really ergonomic, the lever is always right there in your hand. That’s where I spend most of my time on the bike so it’s been good for me.
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Jul 7, 2021 16:05
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I picked up some older mavic cosmics without knowing about their poo poo freehubs, and there's enough play that I can feel it pedaling. There's a grinding noise with any pedal stroke of any significant force. Does anyone have experience with putting new/oversized bushings or the hubdoctor bearing kits in mavic freehubs?
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Mar 1, 2022 04:11
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The bottom bracket of my commuter suddenly started making horrible noises yesterday. I decided to open it up and, uh... one of these things is not like the other. I'm assuming I had it tightened too far to where it had lateral pressure on it. The non-drive side cup kept coming loose last summer and I'd put some blue loctite on and really jammed it in place. I thought I'd adjusted it properly from the other side, but it seems not. I was spinning at a high cadence in a tailwind when it happened, and maybe that was the last straw?Or it was just coincidence. Either way, it's new bearing time.
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Jun 20, 2022 03:14
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Death trap alert: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T6ZLD6zvxw The whole video is like a train wreck I can't look away from. The build methods inspire no confidence in the integrity of the frame. The components are all drillium'd to the point of nearly being broken. The *ahem* custom geometry is wild. At least the handlebar setup is kind of a neat way to de bar end shifters?
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Oct 26, 2022 16:07
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Where would y'all look for 110 bcd chainrings that are specifically NOT narrow-wide and compatible with 7 speed? I'd like to replace the chainrings on my commuter once the snow/ salt clears up and I rebuild the poor thing, and all I can find are for 1x setups or 10-11-12 speed. I'm planning to keep it a 7 speed because I don't want to buy new derailleurs and shifters and I like having two chainrings up front (small for snow, big for clear roads). Is it just an eBay scavenger hunt?
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Mar 18, 2023 21:18
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SimonSays posted:Why not use the 10-speed ones? Otherwise yeah it's eBay or parts bins because no way anyone is going to bother making non-hyperglide double chainrings in tyool 2023. I hadn't bothered to look up the compatibility of 10spd with my drivetrain. I'm already on an 8spd chain. Unfortunately the more I look at the cranks I'm not sure they'll support having chainrings replaced. I had assumed that peeling back the plastic cover on the spider would expose the chainring bolts, but instead it looks like the rings are riveted together and possible only attached at the 28t little cog and nowhere else. I'd be skeptical about fitting the size chainrings I want or fitting more than one with that tiny BCD and how tight to the bottom bracket the bolts are. It's a late 90s suntour sr powerflo front triple for reference. It's probable I'll just need new cranks too, but I was hoping to avoid having to go down the "you need new cranks, which don't work with your derailleur, and a new front derailleur won't work with your shifter, so replace that too" rabbit hole. This bike was never nice and really never needs to be anything more than a beater that just runs okay. Looks like I'm probably eBay hunting for a retro crankset with replaceable chainrings and hoping its a) going to work with existing parts and b) not a scam in some way.
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Mar 19, 2023 14:48
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VelociBacon posted:Hello, I'm you, I'm here from the future to warn you you're about to go down a rabbit hole where nothing is compatible with anything else and you don't find out until you've spent 5x the value of the bike and it still shifts like garbage and you donate it after finally just buying an entry level hardtail. It's all shimano drivetrain otherwise, so a 90s shimano deore triple should be hopefully be spaced properly, or close enough that I can adjust the front derailleur to work, I hope. E: For instance, these look not the worst wear-wise and I think would work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2558572246...ABk9SR_6elKTfYQ Or these, for a chunk more cash: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2661154189...4&ul_noapp=true Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 15:03
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The more I look around, the most cost effective way to replace the cranks/chainrings on the lovely winter bike is just going to be to buy the new version of the old disposable parts that are already on it: https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-tourney-fcty501-crankset-black-3-x-6-7-8-speed-square-taper-170mm-48-38-28t-efcty501c888clb/p1276693 It feels kinda lovely but it's what makes sense if it's just going to get eaten alive by road salt in a handful of years and never needs to have any performance qualities.
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Mar 21, 2023 04:00
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I discovered a handy trick for sorting and cleaning parts while tearing down my winter bike yesterday. I wanted some way to keep things straight and I grabbed some plastic blueberry and strawberry clamshell cartons from our recycling bin and they were really handy. The holes are small enough that everything but small ball bearings and some washers can't fit through, and they let me just dunk the whole thing in a soapy soak while I took other parts off, then pull them out and detail them, then put them back and dunk the whole thing in a rinse bucket a few times. It keeps all of the bolts and screws and stuff for each part together and I don't have to fiddle with them one by one rinsing them. They dried off fine in the cartons and now they're sorted for me when I go re-lube and re-assemble. They stack reasonably well too.
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Apr 24, 2023 21:23
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Quote is not edit
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Apr 24, 2023 21:25
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 20:45 |
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There's a dude I know in town who, after living a few years in the Netherlands, really enjoys biking for transportation when the weather makes it comfortable enough. He is also a very large powerful human, having been my state's strongest man for many years running and now being a powerlifting and strongman coach. He's been riding a cargo bike and it needs some maintenance but is unwilling to go to the only local shop after multiple terrible experiences there, so I told him I'd do cables and bearings and stuff for cost of parts and a six pack. His wheels are also allegedly very beat up and out of true, and he wants to replace them with something that will hold up to the weight and poor road conditions. What should I be looking for in helping him pick new wheels? I assume a high spoke count with heavy spokes, looking up randonneuring or cargo bike wheels might be helpful, but is there anything in particular I should look for to find what he needs? I'm not 100% sure what his wheel size is but once I know I'd like to be able to look up and recommend wheels quickly and easily for him.
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Jan 27, 2024 23:09
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