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I've always been curious about that myth. In the BMX world, everyone knows it's the opposite. Chrome rims provide far superior stopping power than anodized. I've definitely experienced garbage performance on cheap beach cruisers with chrome rims though. Does anyone know what's actually going on there? Because it's not as a simple as chrome/not-chrome.
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Jul 28, 2020 21:14
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CopperHound posted:Judging by the few BMX bikes I've worked on, stopping power is not a concern that designers give much thought to. Have you tried a side by side comparison of different wheels on same bike?  That pic is actually me, I have lots of experience with chrome and ano rims on identical set ups. Its common knowledge in the BMX world. quote:The stopping power difference becomes much more noticeable in wet conditions. You need the iron oxide based brake pads to get wet steel rims to do anything more than just sorta slow you down a little. Mid to high end BMX rims are aluminum that is first coated in a primer, usually copper or zinc, and then chrome plated. I am not sure why or if that makes a difference in braking power, but I am certain a high end BMX chrome rim performs better than a high end ano rim. I've always been bothered by this myth about chrome rims. It does have merit, and is certainly true about low end chrome rims, but its not true across the board. Something else has to be at work. Flatland Crusoe posted:Back in the cyclocross dark ages when we used cantilever brakes we would sometimes score our rims with a box cutter perpendicular to the wheel rotation to get better stopping......
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Jul 29, 2020 23:54
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CopperHound posted:It could be that I mostly deal with BMX shaped objects, but between stamped steal cailpers, u-brakes, a gyro, and the front brake cable making a u-turn, they seem mostly vestigial.  Housing stop in topcap, cable runs through the steerer and out a hole in the crown.  Center pull cantilevers, with a spoke yolk for maximum stiffness. kimbo305 posted:I submitted a q to Lennard Zinn's Q&A column in VeloNews; just need to remember to keep checking.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:39
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e.pilot posted:mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs 
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Aug 28, 2020 06:09
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What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Hy/rd is solar powered flashlight.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:09
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Peel off the sticker and look for cracks. If there are no cracks, its totally fine.
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Sep 13, 2020 18:13
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Agreed. Looks fine. Check on it periodically for cracks, but I wouldn't worry. EDIT: VVV Oh yeah good eye. Keep an eye on that. eSporks fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 19:20
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Looks like your chain is rubbing as well. Check to make sure you don't have an unnecessary spacer behind the cassette.
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Sep 16, 2020 18:47
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kimbo305 posted:Facing it means to file/smooth That's an accurate description, but getting them flat and even will require a jig or expensive tool. Attempting to anything with a hand file will destroy your bike. Just making sure no one gets the wrong take away from this.
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Sep 21, 2020 03:22
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CopperHound posted:I made a tutorial to share with aspiring wheel builders for calculating spoke lengths. I've seen formulas tossed around, but nothing that in depth really.
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Sep 29, 2020 21:32
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EvilJoven posted:Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes. Pro-pro-tip. You can also slide some housing over your homemade spoke tool for a bit of a better grip and to make it magnetic so you can stick it to your toolbox or truing stand or whatever. I also used to cut down nipples and thread them onto the spoke backwards leaving a few threads exposed. Its super useful to hold a new nipple in place when you need to insert it into a rim. I got the EVT nipple holder and never looked back though.
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Oct 2, 2020 18:39
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BeastPussy posted:
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Oct 9, 2020 03:23
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tylertfb posted:I don't mess with that rotary broaching dark magic I would if we had the tools in the shop This is the black magic for those that are curious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWyHJVOxKK4&t=444s To flat tire guy. That sure is weird, I don't see anything in the rim to cause that. Are you positive its on the "bottom" of the tube and isn't on the side and possibly caused by pinching? Are you using tire levers to install the tire? Have you switched tube brands? Possible its a bad batch.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:42
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:LBS had some velox tape, and the 5min test spin I had time for didn't blow a tube, so maybe that's really what it was. I'll know for sure when I try for a longer ride. It amazes me that the difference between tape brands could be that significant, but there you are. Electrical tape usually works though, hopefully the velox fixes your issue.
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Nov 5, 2020 21:55
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Is the fork steerer carbon? What's the frame material? I'd pull the fork and check the steer tube to be safe. Get the bike on a stand and check the frame for cracks or stress in the paint. If you see a questionable chip on any carbon part, tap it with a quarter or screw driver. A crack in the carbon will sound deader than the area around it.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:07
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kimbo305 posted:cross top levers The other tips here are all good ways to minimize things, but a system will never feel as good with cross tops installed.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:08
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Newer shimano FD has a built in tension adjuster too. Also follow the directions, it's different than ever other FD shimano has made.
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Dec 23, 2020 04:39
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Is it holding now? I can't think of anything in the wheel build process that would cause that, unless the wheel was SEVERELY out of true or round. I'd suspect faulty gauge and too much PSI, or a defective tire/rim bead. The gauge would have to be off by a lot though, like 50% or more. Inspect the rim/tire bead for any deformation, surprised it didn't deform just from blowing off.
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Dec 23, 2020 05:52
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kgibson posted:Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address:
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Dec 23, 2020 05:56
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kgibson posted:So this is what gets me wondering about the hanger: adjusting the barrel counter clockwise seems to help the shifting and the noise on the small cogs but then in turn worsens it on the larger ones. My understanding is that that's typical of a bent/misaligned hanger...?
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Dec 23, 2020 22:26
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The abbey one is an absolute dream to use, and the price difference is worth it over the park if you use it regularly. From home use, anything that gauges against the rim will be fine though.
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Dec 24, 2020 00:59
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What's your favorite tubeless tape? I have some hplus son hydra's that have always been a head ache. Gorilla tape seems too tall, the bead snaps into place aggressively and if PSI drops below 35 the tire slides off into the rim channel. Also burps a lot. Stans is always trash. The channel is really deep and stans is too stiff to get into it. I tried some kapton tape, and it was ok for a bit, but it didn't have enough stick and peeled up.
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Jan 3, 2021 17:19
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Ordered some of that powder coat stuff. Looks similar to the kapton, but I think the stuff I have is just cheap. It barely sticks and it snaps if you stretch it.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:25
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The powdercoat tape won't stick to the rim in the slightest. Worse than stans. Edit: spray adhesive. Seems to be working. eSporks fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 20:12
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I couldn't get it to stick enough to even stretch. Rim was clean with alcohol, roughed up with sandpaper. A touch of spray adhesive on the start of the strip gave it enough tack to get started. Held up for an aggressive ride.
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Jan 6, 2021 05:50
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TobinHatesYou posted:When I start taping a rim, I run a Pedro's lever over the tape at the edges, over the bead-lock, and in the center channel. It generally stays in place after 2-feet of tape is laid down, though sometimes it'll lift slightly. That's not really a big deal though. bicievino posted:Yeah, I stick the wheel in the truing stand so I can use both hands - one thumb holding the tape down, the other stretching more down.
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Jan 6, 2021 21:13
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Dangerllama posted:Okay so one more dumb question. Is there a trick to getting the front derailleur properly tensioned without two people? I got the rear tensioned up well, I think. But the front is giving me fits. 2) Then pull the cable tight and clamp tight enough to hold, but not loose enough to crimp. 3) Re-adjust the low limit screw. 4) Check tension BEFORE shifting. If you can't get the low limit to back off enough, release some tension carefully. If it feels slack with the low limit correctly adjusted, re-peat 1-4 5) Fully tighten the cable clamp and check shifting.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:56
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Are they flat mount? I'm going to defend the shop here and call out SRAM. Their flat mount t25 bolts are made out of the softest stainless I have ever encountered. They also have a terribly loose fit on every t25 wrench I've tried including Silca, PB swiss, and wera. On top of that, the caliper was designed without proper tool clearance and the body interferes with the wrench, cocking it off to the side. I've told every SRAM rep I've encountered about it and they just shrug their shoulders and say "we know." If it were up to me, every equipped bike would include a $25 labor credit to fix the problem. The shop should still take care of it for you, but unfortunately it's SRAM's mistake and SRAM will make the shop eat the cost.
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Feb 11, 2021 05:07
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sweat poteto posted:Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors. Please send this picture to SRAM as a customer and complain about it. It's unacceptable that they have a design so poorly thought out and just expect everyone to be cool with it.
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Feb 12, 2021 07:10
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EvilJoven posted:
Going to throw in support for spyres though. If they can stop my fully loaded touring bike, they can stop your road bike too.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:29
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Frame is bad enough that it would need repair. An experienced carbon repair could fix it, but the cracks mean you definitely can't just put new rivets in and call it good.
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Feb 14, 2021 05:31
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evil_bunnY posted:I'm gonna be the party pooper here and say that you can't know how much damage you've done to the seat tube without NDT, and additional riding can totally propagate cracks as they're stress concentrations once they start. You can see cracks in the pic. Those alone will spread, and there is really no telling whats underneath. *might* be cool on a trainer, but riding this thing in the wild is a death wish without a professional looking at it.
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Feb 15, 2021 23:17
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Interesting, I've never heard of the cloth tape trick. I usually go with grease or carbon paste on the rails.
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Feb 16, 2021 18:03
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Park Tool BSH-4 Big honkin' plastic dog bone with 4 sides. Gets the job the done, cheap. DT-swiss Expensive, but it's the best one I know of. Fits a tool box easily. If paired with the DT swiss nipple wrench, it's holds the spoke as close possible to the nipple to prevent twisting. Size specific.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:58
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Should have told him to take it to the dump. That guy is just going to waste the shops time and money and then leave a bad yelp review.
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Mar 10, 2021 05:35
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ExecuDork posted:blasting the internals of the shifters with INOX (WD-40's better Australian competitor). Friendly reminder to anyone else reading that WD-40 is NOT a lubricant and it has no business being anywhere near your bike.
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Mar 15, 2021 03:48
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You could probably get creative with a Greenfield (?those are the big standard kickstands, right) by drilling out the threads on the kickstands and using a bolt with thick washer. Also. You don't need a kickstand, especially on a kids bike. They are just going to throw it on the ground anyways, and if the kickstand drops when they go off a jump it might make them crash.
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Apr 8, 2021 14:30
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I want to add that a proper hybrid tire will give you *more grip* than an a knobby MTB tire when used on pavement. It seems counter intituitive, but the knobs are designed to hook up in loose soil, and/or to cut through the layer of dust on hard pack. On pavement, you have neither of those issues, so you just want surface area. A smooth tire has more surface touching the ground than a knobby one. VVVV whoops, I missed that. eSporks fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 14:16
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Some of the teeth are intentionally shaped funky to aid with shifting, so some the wear you see is just that profile.
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Apr 17, 2021 15:42
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Ovoid chainrings come and go as a fad. There has been contradictory evidence as to whether they actually work or not, and personal anecdotes vary. If you want it, go for it, if you don't, don't let anyone talk you into it. My personal experience is that they are good for a single speed. Out if the saddles mashing at a low RPM feels smoother. I don't notice it in any other scenario.
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Apr 19, 2021 02:15
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