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Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies?

Should I use tape?

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Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

amenenema posted:

Yes and yes. It's cheap, why risk leaks/hassle?

Well it looked easy and people say “oh yeah this works ever time even with rim/wheel combinations that I couldn’t get to seal any other way.”

e: example guide

Buuuuuuut the catch is that it’s more prone to failure and a huge pain to fix when it does.

kimbo305 posted:

Not looked deeply yet, but I found this:

UST tubeless hit the market in 1999.

Stan’s started in 2001.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 27, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Salt Fish posted:

Looking around at M820 brakes it seems like its most commonly sold as a pre-bled set of caliper, hose, and lever. Is there a way to shorten the cables without spraying oil everywhere? I thought it would be easier to sell it as individual parts, or at least ship it with the oil in a bottle?

Yeah.

Buy a kit with the line connected to the caliper but not connected to the lever. This might be the only way they sell it anyway. Install the callipers and run the lines to figure out the length. Slide the rubber boot down the hose at this time. Mark the length

Carefully cut the tubing while while holding it upright, with something like a razor blade against a block of wood. The system is now open to the air, but because it is held upright and thanks to capillary action, oil stays inside.

Hold the line in something like vice grips, with a rag to protect the tube from the jaws. Hammer the barb in in with a mallet. The barb will displace some oil as it goes in. Insert the tube into the lever, which in the two‐piece prebled Shimano kits, already has a brass olive inside. Use an open end wrench to tighten the nut, deforming the olive and making a tight seal. Do this to the specified torque, or, lacking an appropriate torque wrench, till only three threads are showing.

If you’ve done this right, the system will still be full of oil and will not need to be bled.

If the callipers and lever have already been connected to each other, you might be able to follow this same basic procedure with a new barb and new olive to shorten the hose, but chances of losing oil and needing to bleed afterward are higher.

Here’s a web page talking about shortening Shimano hydraulic lines. It differs from what I wrote in a few minor ways, but it has illustrations that you may find helpful.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jul 27, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Some people like schrader valves for tubeless conversions because their larger internal diameter allows more air through to force the beads to seat properly.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
My orange seal arrived today, and tomorrow I get schrader valves (and 3M 8992). :evilbuddy:

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

TobinHatesYou posted:

One layer of gorilla tape works wonders.

I thought about using gorilla tape to build up wheel and close that bead float gap.

I hate gorilla tape enough for ordinary uses, but it’s reasonably cheap and thick and other people have already used it in tires, so we know how it performs in that environment—not great, but not catastrophically failing, either.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Buy a new derailleur hanger.

Either it fixes your problem, or you have a spare that everyone should have.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Yeep posted:

Any recommendations as to which tubeless schrader valves? There don't seem to be many options and they're almost all brands I either don't recognize or know to be cheap tat.

I got Velotubes premium model because they came with two different profiles of grommet and the saddle‐shaped one was more suitable for my old (schrader‐drilled) wheels.

I put them in yesterday. They installed fine and held air on a short ride around town, but I’ll have to see how they hold up to more than that.

I got one tire seated with only a floor pump. I resorted to a compressor for the other one.

Now I need to get a TPU tube to carry for emergencies. All the good ones are presta I think, but that’s fine. A grommet will keep them getting destroyed by abrasion.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jul 30, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Someone should make a bottle to hold sealant with a hose to screw onto a tire valve stem coming out of the bottom and a valve on top to connect to a pump.

Maybe I will make one.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Stop using brake cables for your shifters.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Slavvy posted:

Got super excited thinking this would be transferring power via a pump at the cranks and a turbine at the back wheel, clicked the link, realized immediately it was something far more pointless and stupid

People have done this but only as proofs of concept.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1_l87GACt8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuzRifvfQGg


I really want to see a bicycle with an electric transmission, though, like a diesel‐electric locomotive. It would synergise well with today’s battery‐electric bicycles, but that’s not the point. The point is to have a continuously variable transmission, even on a tandem bicycle. You could vary the resistance throughout each revolution of the crank, too, like oval chainrings that you can reshape at will.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Or you could use a belt.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

VelociBacon posted:

That's the most insane brake adapter setup I've ever seen. Every part of it is different from industry standard?

Well I would say that the absolute worse are the things that clamp onto the chainstay to “convert” a bike with rim brakes to disk brakes.

There are a lot of horrors in the fossil record though.

kimbo305 posted:

Just stumbled into a dusty corner of the bike tech world.
When disc brakes first came out, Santana got on board with Hayes mounts, and added some proprietary adapters once post mount took off.
So this is Hayes to IS to Post, running an 8" rotor:


At some point, they went to a custom 10" rotor. I think this rotor is, but it's a custom Hayes to Post adapter:


The latest generation 10":

Because of the orientation of the post mount caliper, there's plenty of room under it for a big beefy adapter.

Their latest build now uses a flat mount caliper:

Still cable pull, notably. Because the FM caliper takes bolts from below, there's less metal supporting the caliper and holding it to the Hayes mount. I imagine it's all thought through, but weird to see so much investment sticking to such an old standard.


In digging around, I also found a custom Hayes to FM adapter:

Looks sketchy as hell in aluminum, but the seller says there's a 3d printed steel version now.

And this is the first time since I've started paying attention to standards that I've ever seen any actual IS calipers:


Maybe because IS is a common word, or maybe cuz the standards moved too fast? But there's not many pics of IS calipers on IS mounts.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You could use this as an opportunity to get a rotor of large diameter and a matching spacer for the caliper. Further from the hub, the spokes are closer to the centerline.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Salt Fish posted:

They need to invent a shimano/sram -> advent-x pull ratio adapter made from two gears that you put inline with it or something...

There are adapters like this made for some combinations, but Advent-X’s ratio of 1.1:1 is so very close to Shimano’s eleven‐speed mountain ratio of 1.12:1 that it may just work.

A tenth of a millimetre offsides on the largest and smallest cogs? That’s within tolerances.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Aug 10, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Hyperlynx posted:

Hi folks.

Lately it's become more difficult to change gears on my forward gears, to go from easiest to next one up. The chain seems to have more and more difficulty engaging with the new gear, and twice it's come off altogether.

What do? I assume I've worn out one or more of my parts and need new ones. The chain itself is pretty new, though.

Post a photo of your forward gears so we can see their condition. As they wear out, they make a clear change in tooth profile

It’s pretty likely that you just need to make some combination of simple adjustments to the front derailleur though—in/out limit stops or cable tension being the primaries. Of those, cable tension is the most likely to need adjustment as it stretches a little over time. I think that the guy below will recommend setting the limits first, but I say that if the shifting had been working fine and has just recently degraded a little, give a little tweak anticlockwise to the barrel adjuster at the shifter and see if that solves everything.

A problem that would be slightly trickier is if the derailleur cage became bent with an impact or was yanked out of true by the chain.

Here is a decent set of videos going over adjustment and troubleshooting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNG7g83lI-s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcc5-ry4fA0

e: There’s also some possibility that the shifter itself, on the bars, is acting up. Shimanos of a certain age are notorious for having their grease gum up, which manifests as a lever that will not click into a higher gear, because the pawl inside is too gummed up for the spring to move it. If you have three forward gears and only have trouble from small to medium, though, that may not be your problem.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 11:13 on Aug 11, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Berm Peak made a video about swapping out a bunch of components on the Ozark Trail Ridge to make it a better bike.

I don’t care about that particularly much, but I’m linking this timestamped video as a good example of what a tire “burping” looks like on rims that weren’t designed to work without tubes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_nq5RsJSg8&t=643s

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Tightening down the axle and forcing the dropouts closer together can subtly tweak the angle at which the derailleur hangs and cause mysterious shifting issues.

You might try it and see if you get away with it, but if you have difficulty shifting, that would be why.

Otherwise, get a 5mm axle spacer and put it on the left side of the bike. The bike is rideable like that, but if you’re doing this in the long term, you should redish the wheel to center it in its new configuration.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Aug 13, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Well that would be why it was losing tension.

Replacing cables is one of the easiest maintenance tasks, but you have to go to the shop to get a new cable, and it’s so quick that they will probably do it while you wait.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
My rear rotor had as loud as the second coming of Christ, but I ignored it because it’s the rear brake and it’s never rubbed the pads when my hand was off the lever.

Suddenly it’s quiet. Too quiet. :goofy:

I’m just going to continue ignore it. I’ve always been careful around it, but maybe it was contamination somehow.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Platystemon posted:

My rear rotor had as loud as the second coming of Christ, but I ignored it because it’s the rear brake and it’s never rubbed the pads when my hand was off the lever.

Suddenly it’s quiet. Too quiet. :goofy:

I’m just going to continue ignore it. I’ve always been careful around it, but maybe it was contamination somehow.

Yeah it’s loud again. :unsmith:

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

A MIRACLE posted:

Picked up some chatter in my drivetrain and trying to fix it. I have a new chain on a sram 1x setup. The tallest 2 gears have a grinding noise.

It’s not interference from the jockey wheel, right? Twist the B screw in some and see if the noise goes away. Sometimes the tension is fine, but the pivot needs oil.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I found a chain by the side of the road today.

Guess how worn it was. It’s for eight speeds or less.

It had an elongation of a little over one point nine percent.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Sep 7, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

kimbo305 posted:

In desperation once, I flat filed the tip of the bolt down and blunted the leading edge of the thread. And took extreme care in hand threading it in to start.

Protip: put a nut on the bolt before filing or cutting. When you screw it off, it will force the threads into shape.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Why did no one ever bother to agree upon which orientation the tapered square hole in cranks should exist at?

Seems kinda silly.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
loving crank bolts.

I’m going to have to drill this one out.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Sep 13, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Tried both. Used an impact wrench after the manual wrench cammed out a few times, but it just finished the rounding.

Drilling it out went smoothly enough, but I hosed up and bought a replacement of the same size at the local bike shop. It turns out that the new cranks need a longer one. Whoops.

The difference wasn’t severe enough for a dry fitting on the old spindle to catch, but it puts the chainline just barely too far inboard for the derailleur to function.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
The shop did a flat exchange on the parts even though I was upfront about fitting it to the bike. :evilbuddy:

Bike works great now. It shifts more smoothly than it ever did on the old rings, but I don’t know how much of that is new rings and how much is that I adjusted the derailleur properly instead of considering it “good enough” for the past however long.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
How slow are we talking?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

SimonSays posted:

Thisisbait dot gif

I do it for the lower rolling resistance. :shobon:

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Plugs are mostly for holes that are too large for the sealant to work on.

A leak that takes days to flatten the tire should be small enough for the sealant to handle.

I’d add sealant and put in a new valve core. It’s possible that the core is at fault for the slow leak, and cores are too cheap to be cleaning and reusing them.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Hey prestailures, good luck replacing* valve cores without losing† air pressure‡ in your tires. :smug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsLZE5SG0EY


* I only need to replace them because they clog so readily. :negative:

† I only need to keep pressure in the tire because it’s a janky setup on rims not designed to be used without tubes. The beads unseat if the tire comes close to atmospheric pressure. :ferrari:

‡ I can actually just pressurize the tire to max, unscrew the core quickly, plug the stem with my thumb, unplug and quickly insert and tighten the new core. The tire loses a lot of pressure but not enough to unseat the bead. The tool is cool but ultimately unnecessary. :ssh:

Platystemon posted:

Someone should make a bottle to hold sealant with a hose to screw onto a tire valve stem coming out of the bottom and a valve on top to connect to a pump.

Maybe I will make one.

I did make one of these because of the aforementioned problem, that the tire unseats at low pressure, so I can’t simply remove the valve core and squirt in sealant. So I inject it under pressure.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Sep 25, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
There’s this interesting commercial solution to adding sealant under pressure that uses special valves with flexible wipers that act as check valves so that when the Presta core is removed, the wipers air in. You can then slip a straw through them to inject sealant under pressure with a syringe or to withdraw it and measure its quantity.

It’s kind of neat, but whatever, simply topping it up regularly works fine, and you can remove the core and use a dip stick unless you have evil unseating beads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV3ENoc02wE

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Sep 25, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I ride on solid tungsten wheels to destroy any road debris I come across.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Invalido posted:

How does sealant do in freezing temps?

That’s when you use Orange Seal Subzero, down to negative thirty Celsius.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Get a stem that rises at a steeper angle.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You’re on your own with most sealant mixtures, but Stan’s and Orange Seal happen to be compatible.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

You can’t have rear suspension and two bottles in the front triangle.

That’s illegal.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Are Connex links on other brands’ chains known to be tight and stiff and cause issues sometimes or did I gently caress it up by using a brand new quick link on middle‐aged chain?

I replaced it with a worn Connex, and that seems to have enough clearance to work.

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Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I carry a Dynaplug, the finest in patching technology.

I’ve never had to use it, which indicates to me that it is a powerful talisman against all that would harm my tires. :blessed:

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