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I personally would recommend the pedals that aren't designed to break in half. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-QNAwUdHUQ
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Jul 27, 2020 00:17
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eSporks posted:I've always been curious about that myth. The stopping power difference becomes much more noticeable in wet conditions. You need the iron oxide based brake pads to get wet steel rims to do anything more than just sorta slow you down a little. Some steel rims are textured for increased brake performance: 
CopperHound fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 21:51
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eSporks posted:Scuse me? I want to see more close up pics of your bike that actually has functional brakes.
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Jul 30, 2020 00:11
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I just use Q-tubes. They are qbp's house brand and appear to be repackaged Kenda tubes. Tubes are just a commodity to me though. I get whatever is cheapest and not labeled as extra light or heavy duty.
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Aug 1, 2020 22:38
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nm posted:Rather go slightly oversized than undersized
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Aug 2, 2020 05:26
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nm posted:On 48 particularly I had a lot of flat issues due to rub running 45mm tubes. Switched to 2.0 and they went away.
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Aug 2, 2020 20:13
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Lord Rupert posted:Any thoughts on wether this cassette is too worn or not would be appreciated. Got a cyclical clunking/clicking when pedaling but not coasting. Three seasons of mountain biking on this drivetrain, with a new chain still made the same noises around the block. Probably just taking it in anyways, but I gotta wait a days time for that.
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Aug 3, 2020 04:26
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I start tours tubeless now. So far I'm at 5 out of 6 tires making it to the return flight without having to put a tube in. That 1 instance was because I wore a tire down to the casing and I decided to not to attempt the futile effort of setting a bead with a hand pump on the edge of a road halfway up a mountain. Also neither tire was designed to be tubeless 
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Aug 3, 2020 10:13
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nm posted:put orange seal in your tubes for flat resistance,
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Aug 3, 2020 20:42
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e.pilot posted:I double flatted last week with orange seal in the tubes, reinflated and went on to do 150 more miles and counting still holding air no problem.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:40
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I used to do all sorts of asinine stuff to mount tires. Now I just add more layer of tape if I can't set them with a floor pump. I stopped being stingy with tape since I learned about this stuff: https://tapesmaster.com/collections/green-powder-coating-tapes
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Aug 4, 2020 04:26
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Flatland Crusoe posted:also means making the poor decision to inject sealant thru valve stems which never ends well either.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:51
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beep-beep car is go posted:It’s this one - 8mm allen with a long handle, not some puny multitool - crank puller - 20 tooth bottom bracket tool If you are trying to build up a bike toolkit, I recommend buying park or pedros tools as you need them instead of buying any kits. disclaimer: tightening your bottom bracket might not help your creak. Also, read repair guides. Bikes have some stuff that is reverse threaded and it is good to figure that out before you use a cheater bar to tighten things even further. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 01:33
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beep-beep car is go posted:I will do this too. Do I need to get a repair stand?
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Aug 5, 2020 01:47
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Congratulations on finding a good use for a non-stick skillet.
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Aug 6, 2020 04:52
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? If it is a multi day ride I'll include a spare valve core. If it is a multi week ride I'll carry some extra sealant.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:39
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Cannon_Fodder posted:figured out that I have loose bearings in the cassette,
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Aug 12, 2020 16:18
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Mauser posted:My order of tubeless valves never got delivered Nyyen posted:having trouble with upshifting that I've never had before. e: that derailleur isn't rapid rise, is it? If so it probably isn't cable/housing... Unless you call going down to the bigger gears upshifts. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Aug 13, 2020 |
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Aug 13, 2020 04:24
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sweat poteto posted:1" Gorilla works fine though.
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Aug 23, 2020 05:58
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z16bitsega posted:Also do not try to remove a freewheel without the correct tool, depending on the exact brand/age of the existing freewheel the correct tool should be extremely cheap.
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Aug 25, 2020 16:43
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Ciaphas posted:Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else? SimonSays posted:I got fed up and went back to cantilevers 
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Aug 27, 2020 20:57
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Do any of you have much experience with the yokozuna brakes vs hyrd? The being able to dial in the bite seems like something I would appreciate more than self adjusting for pad wear.
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Aug 28, 2020 02:56
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e.pilot posted:alfine on drop bars.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:53
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e.pilot posted:I was really hoping this was going to be like the canti brake video a while back where he took it off and hucked it in the trash.
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Sep 2, 2020 17:49
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EvilJoven posted:Pitching those in the garbage might be satisfying but shipping them off for warranty and then selling the new ones they send as replacements (don't use em, they'll fail too, even the 'redesigned' ones) gets you money for actual good bike parts.
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Sep 3, 2020 05:10
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Time posted:1. 2x setup when im on the big cog in front and in the middle on the rear cassette, my chain will refuse to stay in gear. skipping might be the right word but its more like it just keeps trying to shift over and over. Time posted:2. when I am in pedaling pretty hard in the bottom two gears on the rear cassette
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Sep 10, 2020 15:47
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Dolemite posted:I had to use tire levers to get the last part of the bead on. When trying again by hand, save the spot with the valve for last and try to get some slack by squeezing the tire toward the center of your rim profile. Before inflating pull back on the bead all the way around the tire to make sure no tube is pinched between tire and rim. If there is some stuck at the valve, just push the stem down some to free it up.
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Sep 10, 2020 15:54
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kimbo305 posted:1) anyone know if there's a difference in the bearings? https://eshop.ntn-snr.com/en/Suffix-Prefix-Equivalences-3964225.html As for the rolley part of the bearings, without any manufacturer tolerance claims I would more or less consider them equivalent.
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Sep 13, 2020 07:02
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ExecuDork posted:#1 pushes the chain into the thin metal shield on the wheel, but the chain does not come off the cog Please learn about adjusting the low limit screw.
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Sep 13, 2020 07:30
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Freehub pawls half catching then slipping. Some can be opened up with no tools and some require taking out all the loose ball bearings.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:25
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Ehh, should not happen on a new bike. I imagine the most likely cause is that the grease is a little too thick and making it stick. If I didn't just buy the bike from a local bike shop, I'd probably try flushing a little bit of light weight oil like triflow at the spot where the freehub meets the hub.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:45
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kimbo305 posted:I'm trying to understand how GXP deals with bracket type FDs. I do recall seeing some gap on the drive side last time I installed a gxp, but I can't recall if it would have been enough to leave room for the fd mount. I personally would just try it, but I would tell other people to get the frame faced down to 68mm.
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Sep 19, 2020 16:59
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mikemelbrooks posted:The diagram was taken from instructions for a GXP bottom bracket. Sram doesn't seem to officially support it.  People on mtbr seem to have varying success installing chain guides with GXP because there is generally ~2mm extra spindle length on the drive side.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:33
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If you don't have it already, compressionless brake housing helps a little.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:56
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Can we get some Fs in chat for this tried and true workhorse:
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Sep 21, 2020 17:38
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I'll probably start giving tange ln-3922 a try for my projects E: or the cheapest sunlite has to offer because the JBI rep is pretty good about returns.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:36
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Too much cable tension pressing hard against the high limit can make the downshift click a harder press, but you would definitely notice it when jamming the shifter into high gear. Front deraileurs are finicky. I don't want to suggest one easy fix, because every combination goes a little different. Like Kimbo was hinting at, there are all sorts of adjustments to front deraileurs: Height, Yaw, Limits, and Cable tension. The first two usually require literally loosening and moving the deraileur. If you take a couple hours to put your bike up on a stand and see how each sort of adjustment can effect shifting (and chain drop  ) it should become more clear what adjustments you need to do.Often times just a slight yaw adjustment or lubricating the pivots can solve front shifting problems. Any height adjustment will also require the cable tension to be readjusted.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:10
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That chain does not come with a masterlink. Not a huge deal, you just don't need the masterlink pliers. The pin is one time use, so if you think you might gently caress up the chain length, get extras or a new master link. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 19:03
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I made a tutorial to share with aspiring wheel builders for calculating spoke lengths. https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1ULyPizAvmtR_SJlOeXDUb4XNIsOIiFklmvbsKRrEAMQ/edit?usp=sharing I did not make a tutorial on how to physically measure a hub and rim. Figure that out yourself.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:57
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 04:53 |
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MalleusDei posted:Does this chainring look ok, or is it due for replacement?
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Oct 1, 2020 08:02
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