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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:My 4iii NDS crank PM battery contact snapped off. I soldered it back in place and it seems to be working fine now, but I got a bit of the plastic shell melted in the process and it’s not going to be watertight now. This is my cross bike so it’s subject to awful conditions. What works is going to depend on how big the hole is and its location, but a couple of other things you can try are cutting off a section of old inner tube and stretching it over the whole thing or getting some silicone and dabbing a bit of that on the hole.
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Aug 11, 2022 14:36
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Is there a benefit to an inner tube over heat shrink tubing? I figure the tubing would produce a tighter seal when it gets shrunk down to fit. I haven't played with heat shrink enough to know which one is best. I just threw it out because old tubes are something that people have lying around for free.
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Aug 11, 2022 17:20
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taqueso posted:There is heat shrink tubing with waterproof adhesive built in, that stuff should work great. How easily does the adhesive come off when it's time to change the battery?
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Aug 12, 2022 22:06
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ChocNitty posted:All the tire tube patch kits i've used work like poo poo, and the tubes continue to slowly leak air. Are you using glue-on style patches like these? Or glueless ones like these? Because the stick on ones are really just good to get you home. The glue on ones are pretty bulletproof and permenant.
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Feb 11, 2023 21:35
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EvilJoven posted:Because you're way more likely to have your crank arm come off. Isn't that what the bolt on the end is for? I poked around a bit and found a thread where people argue about it. It looks like a lot of people do grease square tapers without any trouble. Some people don't do it just because that's just how it should be done and some don't because they're afraid of the crank sliding too far up and splitting. I'm not sure I understand the physics of that second case.
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Jun 1, 2023 06:15
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kimbo305 posted:Grease reduces the friction coefficient at a given load, and thus the friction force at a given displacement (of how far the crank is threaded down onto the taper). But it's still a taper. Regardless of grease, it can only go so far until the full surface is engaged and it stop sliding. A crank that would split on a greased taper would split on an ungreased taper the same way.
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Jun 1, 2023 06:34
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Mederlock posted:On this topic, are there such things as.. better tubes? Like we've just got some basic generic tubes in our tires right now, but are there improvements that can be made in some upgrades? Are like, tubes with sealant a thing? Or some kind of puncture resistant tubes, or any way to augment the tire to reduce the odds of a puncture? I don't see myself going tubeless anytime soon but surely there's some improvements to be had on the tube side of the spectrum. The only real tube options outside of traditional butyl tubes are latex tubes - which reduce rolling resistence but aren't really much more puncture resistant - and TPU tubes - which are made of a sort of plastic and can pack down tightly but may or may not be more puncture resistant depending on who you ask. Personally, I stick with what I know and use the old fashioned tubes. They aren't puncture proof but they're cheaper than the alternatives and easy to patch.
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Jul 18, 2023 05:12
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kimbo305 posted:In some cases, a sharp bit can wedge into one of those cuts and slowly worm its way to the inside and threaten the tube. You can push out the carcass from the inside to try to expand the cut and see if there’s debris inside. I get that sometimes with thorns. They work their way into the tire but don't poke out enough to be detected unless the tire is flexed just right. Flexing the tire like you describe helps a lot. Feeling along the inside in addition to looking is great too. Some of the little tire gremlins that cause leaks like that can be tiny. Also, getting into the habit on patching tires instead of always using new ones helped me to figure out if I'm getting a puncture in the same place which can indicate a hidden sharp bit in the tire.
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Jul 25, 2023 18:17
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I had a fall today and now for some reason my rear hydraulic brake is either 100% on or 100% off. A little squeeze is enough to lock up the brake and I need to pull the lever out manually even though the spring in the lever still feels like it's there. Anyone seen something like this before or have an idea for how to debug it?
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Oct 8, 2023 22:32
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 09:20 |
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webcams for christ posted:The Nub. You might be able to use a dremel tool or a hacksaw to put a slot into the nub and use a screwdriver on it. Edit: Responded to the wrong OP.
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Apr 23, 2024 23:45
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