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Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

VelociBacon posted:

I wouldn't run a 2.5 or 2.6 on my downhill bike, I think it's kinda crazy to consider putting any 2.5 or 2.6 tire on a bike you have to pedal around unless you really find that a 2.4 isn't enough.

unless its a hardtail, imo

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Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
The track looked phenomenal. Loose, steep, soft, natural. I thought it was probably the best looking track i can remember seeing, just looked like it would be so much fun to ride. Obviously for me that would mean skipping the big drops and like creeping my way down it trying to survive, rather than absolutely railing it the whole way down like them, but still

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
So i fractured a couple toes on friday. Very minor, they were on the fence about whether it was a fx or not. Anyway, im in the market for new flat pedal shoes. I have freerider contacts, which are worn out. I liked that theyre a bit stiffer and had some protection. I also have regular freeriders, which are very comfy, good grip, but the sole is too soft and they have zero toe protection. I was wearing the regular freeriders the other day. I dont know that the other shoes would have saved me, but they certainly might have.

So im looking at freerider pro vs impact pro. I want the sole to be at least as stiff as the contact's, and id like at minimum the protection that the contact's offered. Im not super worried about the weight of the impacts, but i am wondering if the sole is stiff and supportive but you can still feel whats going on through your feet. Ive also heard bad things about the freerider pro's sole durability.

What do yall think? or is there some other brand that produces what i need?

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

VelociBacon posted:

I've had the impacts previously, then the normal freeriders, and I just last month bought freerider pros. The pros are incredible, super comfy, light, great stiffness in the sole (similar to the freerider tbh). I don't think I've ever heard someone say that the freerider sole is too soft for them. Do you have narrow pedals? I think the toe is more than protected enough on the pros for mountain biking purposes. I wouldn't want steel toes. I've also never fractured toes from biking.

If my pros got stolen I'd buy new ones tomorrow, I think you should at least give them a try-on. I have to say I don't really care about the durability of the shoe so long as I get what I need from it but I appreciate that other people have different needs.

The Impact line of 5 10 stuff is horrible. They're so bulky and heavy and far too wide, hot, etc. It feels like a work boot. I hated my impacts.

So my regular freeriders are notably softer than my freerider contacts, also despite the contacts being at least twice as old. But who knows, its just 2 pairs of shoes out of a million, mine could be different. Anyway, thank you for your exp with the freerider pros. They seemed like what i want, but my closest riding and otherwise friend has used impacts for like 10 years, and swears by them. So i was kinda second guessing myself, he usually has pretty good judgement. The protection of the impacts might be overkill, but i do need alot more than the regular freeriders provide.

Ill have to go see whats in stock locally. I have small feet, sometimes that helps and sometimes it hurts for availability.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
Brake question incoming. Guides vs Levels

I had level T brakes, got a free pair of guide Ts. Mounted them up with new metallic pads and new 200/180 rotors. The guides feel different though, like theres quite a bit more free stroke before they grab. They do have sufficient power, levers feel okay. The guides are pretty new, like half a season, and i bled the rear after install and didnt bleed the front. They feel about the same (front vs back).

So the levels grab almost right away and are much easier to lock up. Is this just how guides feel? like the xc brake is twitchier and the trail brakes let you modulate more? Or does my bleed suck? Or are the higher price Guide levers worth it and the base model guide T's just arnt that good?

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

numptyboy posted:

Did the first brakes come with organic pads - that might account for the lack of the initial bite.

Thats typically metallic pads dont have that inital strong bite, but fair better in wet conditions and when they get hot(they also howl).

If the brakes feel equal in bite front and rear then you probably have a good bleed.

One thing ive seen mentioned is that you shouldnt mix pads - eg use organic then switch to metallic - not sure how important that is and i have no direct experience in how good or bad this is.
I assume cleaning the disks + pads with brake cleaner and then bedding in again would remove this out of the equation.

I would maybe check the pistons are moving equally - remove the pads and push the pistons fully back in - then move them out very carfully(dont over extend them).

If you notice one moves more than than the other - You might try getting some dot fluid and working the pistons in and out cleaning and dabbing the pistons with the fluid as you work them out and push them back in(if one is sticking more than the other - then hold one side in and work the stuck side).
Once both sides move equally give the piston a good clean before putting the pads back in.

Both brakes have metallic pads. I know that alot of people hate on sram brakes, but ive been really happy with the Level T, so i figured that the Guide T would be okay too.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
Clipless pedal questions incoming

Ok so, long time rider always flats. I have origin8 slimline pedals on both bikes, which are really thin and have actually been great. Shoes are freeriders and freerider pros.

So i thought i should try clips, got some used XT pedals, the ones without any platform, and 5.10 kestrel lace shoes.

Only been a few rides, but my observations so far: It feels like im riding on my toes, like a ballerina. ive got the cleats all the way back, which is better, but still. Also, the height of my shoes/pedals must be way more than that of the flat setup, because i had to raise my seatpost about half a inch. It also feels like my bike got smaller when im standing and riding in an aggressive position, and i feel very much on top of the bike rather than between the wheels. On the side of the positives, being able to just keep pedaling through chunky stuff, either uphill or downhill, thats pretty nuts. Huge capability gained there.

Some caveats, ive used the bike and setup for a long time, and i ride alot, so anything different really stands out. Im sure once im on it for a while itll feel much more natural, just since it wont be new. And i wonder if ive just been spoiled by such thin pedals and stuff, or is there another clipless setup that wouldnt put me so high up above the pedal spindles? Would it help to use a pedal with a platform like Mallets or something, so i didnt feel like i was putting all my weight through a postage stamp sized contact patch? I think i may just have to experiment a bunch to find out the answers here. It is getting to be winter here though, so im kinda thinking about shelving the project till spring. I think that theres really diminishing gains to clips in the snow and ice. And those shoes are cold, i could feel an intensely cold spot right where the pedal was on the bottom of my shoe this morning.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

Eejit posted:

Get very rigid soled shoes for the pressure situation. I use some Giro whatevers with a really stiff insole and vibram outsole and I don't notice that sort of pressure. Also I use Shimano pedals with a bit of a platform which is advantageous if you don't quite clip in or slip out and maybe provide more surface.

I don't think you're ever gonna get that low to the spindles feeling, but stiffer shoes may help you feel more in tune with the bike.

Also any big, protruding cleat is gonna be a pain in the rear end while walking on rough terrain, so I think it's just one of the tradeoffs of a small, recessed cleat putting you slightly higher.

And yeah, those shoes do get cold.

i know that theyre not like carbon soled XC shoes, but the kestrels feel really drat stiff to me, and i think if i need stiffer than that, ill just use flats. That is also a thing i noticed, that the cleat was recessed enough to not be scraping everywhere. I think the platform must make some kind of difference for distributing pressure. However, if theres too much contact between shoe and pedal, wont that make it really hard to unclip?

n8r posted:

Go back to flats!

thats exactly what im doing, going to go switch them right now for tomorrow mornings ride. I want to try them again in the spring though, so im hoping to come up with some new things to try that are more likely to be good. I just cant shake the idea that the huge percentage of riders that use clips cant all be wrong. Theres clearly benefits to be had, but i guess im realizing now how comfortable my flat pedal setup has been.

feelix posted:

Not only are your feet farther off the pedal, you're also pedaling closer to your ball than your arch, so you're gonna need the seat higher
good point, thats true. My bike is slack, but short in the front and long in the rear, and its making me feel like im wayyyy over the front wheel, like i cant drop my heels enough to feel centered. Perhaps moving the cleats forward would help with that, by putting my weight further backward? i think that would make the riding on my toes feeling worse though.


And thanks everyone for the input!

Torbo fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Nov 22, 2022

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
I got a new bike, my first FS, this winter, a Marin Rift Zone. I dont have a ton of time on it yet, but im having trouble with sore hands. Unfortunatly, theres alot of factors at play, so im not sure where to start with trying to narrow it down. Its vastly different than my previous everyday bike, which is a hardtail fatbike with a bluto. Its almost exactly opposite geometry wise, with a short reach and very long chainstays, slacker seat tube. It has a 720mm carbon bar compared to the 750 alu one on the Marin and different grips. Ive got the bar height and roll as close as i can.

So any ideas of where i should start to try to rectify this? I can try swapping the grips, thats free. Maybe its just something i need to get used to, but im not sure because im feeling pretty comfortable on the new bike otherwise. I could try running the fork a little softer, but it feels okay i think, sag is correct and compression is open. Anyway, any ideas are appreciated.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

VelociBacon posted:

Are you getting like numbness or where is the pain? Do you feel like your weight is resting on your hands quite a lot?

no numbness, sore and fatigued across the palms. I do feel more weight on my hands, but it kinda feels like there needs to be to weight the front wheel. It feels like this bike i need to muscle around the front end, and the back happily follows, where as my fatbike feels like the front wheel is just point and shoot and i have to work hard with my legs and hips to make the back end do what i need it to.

as far as posting the bars, theyre just alu marin branded bars, 28mm rise, 780 wide cut to 750, 5 degrees up 9 degrees back. Theyre setup in a pretty similar position to my other bikes, and it feels pretty much fine, so im not sure where the soreness is coming from. I can get some pics later, but there isnt much to see, like nothing about the cockpit setup is radically different than my other bikes, other than being wider.

Torbo fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 25, 2023

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

brand engager posted:

Where does everyone place their foot? I noticed on a road bike the ball of my foot ends up centered on the pedal, but on mtb it feels normal to have the middle of my foot centered on the pedal. Using flat pedals on both

middle of the foot for me too. I never really thought about it till i tried clips, where it felt like i was pedaling with my tippy toes, even with the cleats as far back as possible.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

Bud Manstrong posted:

What’s the diameter on the bars? 35mm bars can definitely be more harsh than 31.8mm bars. Suspension setup can contribute to arm pump and soreness as well.

But I meant Velocibacon’s bars. 👀

Levitate posted:


Also re: sore hands also make sure you’re relaxing and not death gripping the bars? Maybe that’s not the issue but it’s something I still remind myself of constantly

theyre 31.8. i dont think im deathgripping, and not really having arm pump. This is just in my local xc riding, no long descents or anything, which is part of why im keen to solve it. I know if im having sore hands on my home trails, its gonna be real bad at the bike park or anywhere with more sustained descending

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

Nohearum posted:

What does your LBS charge for shift cable housing? $3.50/ft is ridiculous, right?

i think ive generally paid about 5 dollars for however much i need, or its usually free if im buying a cable.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

MarxCarl posted:

With the dropper fully extended, will you be able to set the seat post, with seat, to your preferred seat post height?

I just got a 150mm dropper for my bike, which is what is specced for my frame, and it’s maybe 5 mm too long. I didn’t think about that and it’s quite annoying to me. Have to fiddle with it more than I want to get it close on the return.

Also get a nice lever. The one that came with mine was terrible so I got a Wolf Tooth light action which improved the experience a lot.

this is one of the greatest features about some of the new droppers, like the one up and pnw loam, the tool free travel adjust with a shim. My bike's dropper insertion is kinda terrible, and im about as short as i could be a ride a medium, so ive got a 150 dropper adjusted down to 135 i think. Not ideal, but still slightly better than 125. Great feature, without it, the dropper would be unusable in my opinion. I really feel like the top out of the dropper has to be my full pedaling height, otherwise it changes the dropper from up and down all the time the way we all use them, to like only being used when it needs to be down all the way for an extended period, like we did putting the seat down before droppers, because its too much of a pita to get the height right at the top.


Also, any of you guys caught the new film "Nothings for free"? not to give anything away, but i think everyone whos even a little interested in mountain bikes should watch it. Some really heavy stuff, emotions, impacts, sends. I dont huck myself off things, and i wasnt super into freeride as a kid so theres less nostalgia for me, but i felt this film really hard.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

FogHelmut posted:

Mine just arrived, haven't assembled it yet, but it came with Vee Tire Flow Snap tires. It does have a Deore cassette though, I know some people said theirs came with a Suntour. If I don't like the tires, that's okay, because reviews say they don't last very long anyway.


edit - They made the dropper post cable too short, need to replace it. Also the ferrule wasn't even crimped on the end, lol. Lever is very cheap.

Ive got those tires that came stock on a Marin rift zone, and ive been pleasantly surprised. They seemed like they were going to wear out super fast at first, but then they kinda just paused and seemed to last the second half of the season without wearing further. Mine have about 1100 miles on them, 90% dirt, and im guessing theyll last at least half of next season too. I was really pleased that the bike came with sufficiently aggressive tires.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007
I got new SLX brake levers for my bike! it came with mt420s, which i ran last season. Power was okay, everything about the lever was not at all okay. So im pretty pleased with myself that i got the new levers for 100 dollars, didnt have to mess with the internal brake routing, which i despise, and they feel great. Went for a ride this morning and i didnt go down anything that would have tested the brakes really, but boy do they feel so much better.

Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

kimbo305 posted:

I think I've fallen into a snob fallacy, but I can't find myself getting hyped up about a $2k carbon MTB with NX. Felt myself going down a rabbit hole of groupset upgrade costs and had to rein myself in.

i mean nx is pretty blah, but on the other hand drivetrain is by far the least important system of a mountain bike. As long as its good enough, upgrade dollars make a wayyy bigger difference spent any other way. Suspension, brakes, wheels, especially tires, literally every part of a mtb is more important than the drivetrain, as long as the drivetrain is like deore level. And not to mention that drivetrain is essentially a consumable to some extent.

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Torbo
Jun 12, 2007

Bouillon Rube posted:

drat was hoping that the solution wasn’t to spend more money

i have some gnarly decision paralysis with some of this stuff, like i took months to buy new knee pads because i couldnt decide which ones to get. When droppers were pretty new, i thought it was pretty stupid, like no one needs that poo poo. Then i demo'ed a bike with a dropper and went home and bought myself one right then and there. Theyre very cheap and reliable these days, theres no reason to have a mountain bike without one. (you wouldnt need one on a dh bike or a dj)

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